grain filling with 2-part epoxy?

Hi,

I'm making a body out of hinoki cypress. It seems to me that it's not an open-pored wood (I'm sort of ignorant about this phase of building), but I do have some tearout from routing, both on the edges and the top and back because I used a router sled to thickness/level the blank). There are also a few assorted work-damage dents. :neutral:

Anyway, I'm looking around in DIY stores and having trouble finding grain filler or wood putty--I don't know why. But I can find CA glue in various viscosities, and I also found some 2-part epoxy.

But I couldn't find any threads on the techniques for applying these as grain filler. I swear I searched first! :razz:

I also did find something called "wood primer", in a spray can, and it seems to be vinyl sealer. it's transparent.

I'm planning to paint this guitar a semi-transparent white with acrylic lacquer auto paint from rattlecans. Given that:

1. Can I use the vinyl sealer as a grain filler? I mean, does it build up well enough to do that job without too many coats?

2. If that's not enough, which material--2-part epoxy or CA--would you recommend (and which type?)

3. What is the process/technique for applying it?

Thanks!

I've used Zpoxy Finishing Resin and apply it with a squeegee like in this YouTube. Don't know if you will find that particular brand over there, but most hobby shops will have a Finish cure epoxy version that should work the same. You want a Finish cure mainly because it is a thinner / lower viscosity product than the typical 5 min epoxy and also tends to be easier to sand / more friendly to use.

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Thanks.

1. Would this be after the vinyl sealer?
2. How would I apply it on contours (where a squeegee won't work)?

Could you post some pictures of the tearout you need repaired? Seeing the problem may get you a more accurate solution to this problem. I can't imagine pore filling repairing any significant tearout, but a picture could prove me wrong. Also, dents can be steamed out.

I have a thousand pics on my build thread (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/320181-jupiter%92s-official-unofficial-2012-challenge-build-thread-electramaster-content.html), but they're not close up enough to show it, maybe. You can see a bit here on the sides and the roundover at the waist. I don't have big chunks out, but a kind of furriness. It's not super bad, but deeper than I want to sand.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j_KvNMDuxTU/T5KFr4m4C_I/AAAAAAAACdw/gND2Eckj_pE/s640/DSC_0004.jpg

Here are some close-up shots:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zXdOC4ChpdQ/T5Uprk1SctI/AAAAAAAACfw/i8gHs7f9Rqo/s640/DSC_0006.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_Z24TYSyDYk/T5UprrnWx6I/AAAAAAAACf4/tPR59RMDo7s/s640/DSC_0005.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-bu2HNwScjeE/T5UprmLBl7I/AAAAAAAACf0/Bjigeu_3KZ8/s640/DSC_0003.jpg

Sanding would take most of that out. Sounds like you don't want to sand it too much, but that would probably be the easiest thing for you to do, unless this ruins the shape, dimensions, etc. You do want the smoothest possible surface before finishing starts.

And small dents you have try some water on them, just wet the wood well and let dry, and small dents in unfinished softwood will pop out, if you are in a hurry or want slightly better results, wet the wood and steam it, I've used a clothes iron for this, again, the dents pop right out. I am always amazed at how well this works. Works best in softwoods, but all woods will have some effect.

I've used finishing epoxy for RC aircraft builds (what it's intended for) and I would only advise to only use the name brand "Zpoxy" or another high quality finishing epoxy (west systems). This can provide a very smooth and hard surface, and would negate the need for a sealer coat. Experiment first on scrap to see if you can get a grain pop with the epoxy if you are going with a transparent finish. Some sealers may be better at making the grain pop than finishing epoxy. And do not use 5 minute or 30 minute epoxy for this, totally different than finishing epoxy and very very hard to sand, finishing epoxy in contrast sands much easier and will not gum up the sandpaper.

In the RC community Zpoxy is used as a coat to apply very thin layers of fiberglass cloth (silk like) on the outer shell, and can be sanded then painted right over. You can also tint the Zpoxy with dye, and I know some people have used this as the only surface treatment on their planes. When done properly, it can be done very lightweight, and it creates a very hrs surface.

I guess I'm going to steam/sand and then go with CA for spot filling and then vinyl sealer. I found Zpoxy in Japan, but it's like 35 bucks for a lifetime supply of it.

I have used Vinyl Sealer as filler, but I don't think it would work in aerosol form. They have to thin it too much to spray through the nozzle.

I have used Vinyl Sealer as filler, but I don't think it would work in aerosol form. They have to thin it too much to spray through the nozzle.

Thanks Colt; that makes sense. I'm going to start with CA, but I still may use the vinyl sealer a bit for that function, just spraying several coats. I need to practice my rattlecan technique anyway. :neutral:

Thanks Colt; that makes sense. I'm going to start with CA, but I still may use the vinyl sealer a bit for that function, just spraying several coats. I need to practice my rattlecan technique anyway. :neutral:

I used 5 heavy coats of vinyl through my spray rig to grain fill an ASH body.