Thinline arm curve?

Anybody have experience putting an arm comfort curve into the top of a hollow body type Thinline?

I am building a Danelectro inspired Tele with a masonite top and would like to include the arm curve. Are there any issues I should know about? Anybody ever bend masonite? Would you use heat (I 'm thinking moisture would be BAD) to encourage the bend?

Any help here would be great. Thanks.

I built a Fender Toronado clone, and for kicks I chambered it out. All hell broke loose when I put the comfort curve on the top. It was salvageable, but just barely. Just make sure your top is thick enough to carve the curve without cutting through to the hollow chamber.

I built a Fender Toronado clone, and for kicks I chambered it out. All hell broke loose when I put the comfort curve on the top. It was salvageable, but just barely. Just make sure your top is thick enough to carve the curve without cutting through to the hollow chamber.

I'm not really planning to carve the comfort curve. My goal is to curve the body core and then bend the 1/4" masontie top to cover it.

I have seen acoustic luthiers bend sides with a combination of moisture and heat, but I wonder if that is really necessary with thin masonite/ MDF. I don't know if it will flex enough to just pressure it into shape. Do I need to assist it into flexing? My guess is that moisture would ruin the material. So that leaves heat... But I've never heard of any good techniquest to bend masonite/ MDF.

I'm not really planning to carve the comfort curve. My goal is to curve the body core and then bend the 1/4" masontie top to cover it.

I have seen acoustic luthiers bend sides with a combination of moisture and heat, but I wonder if that is really necessary with thin masonite/ MDF. I don't know if it will flex enough to just pressure it into shape. Do I need to assist it into flexing? My guess is that moisture would ruin the material. So that leaves heat... But I've never heard of any good techniquest to bend masonite/ MDF.

I've never worked with or bought it, but masonite is fairly inexpensive, isn't it? If so, I'd just try it and see what happens. If the curve is gradual enough, you may find that it will flex and bend to conform to it quite easily. Alternatively, you could maybe get a good idea by flexing and bending the material in your hands. If it seems flexible enough, it probably is.
Edited to add: OK, I just looked up masonite. It's essentially what we call hardboard around here. I'd almost be willing to bet cash that it would flex enough to do what you're talking about doing. MHO.

Haven't done a Thinline with the arm contour but I did do one with a contoured back. Seems to me you could bend masonite with steam.

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I'd almost be willing to bet cash that it would flex enough to do what you're talking about doing. MHO.

Seems to me you could bend masonite with steam.

Thanks. I guess I'll see how it flexes. If it bends without too much stress, I'll just push hard and clamp the heck out of it. Otherwise, maybe steam the underside? One way to find out...

Or maybe a series of shallow cuts (kerfs) on the inside to make it more flexible in that area.

Or maybe a series of shallow cuts (kerfs) on the inside to make it more flexible in that area.

That's a good idea. If it won't bend sufficiently without help, I'm gonna try that. Something about using steam on this kind of manufactured product just worries me...

Thanks.

That's a good idea. If it won't bend sufficiently without help, I'm gonna try that. Something about using steam on this kind of manufactured product just worries me...

Thanks.

With the cost of Masonite being so cheap, try the bend first after moistening the inside and outside of the bend zone; then clamp it down overnight and see it it stays. I've designed curved storefronts with multi-layered Masonite and on long radius bends it works fine.

Cut to shape after bending to allow for the expansion & contraction.

With the cost of Masonite being so cheap, try the bend first after moistening the inside and outside of the bend zone; then clamp it down overnight and see it it stays. I've designed curved storefronts with multi-layered Masonite and on long radius bends it works fine.

Cut to shape after bending to allow for the expansion & contraction.

Thanks for the tip. Since I am planning on a arm curve instead of a more strat-like arm bevel this may work. The radius will be fairly long, too.

Do you just wipe the water on and go? Lay on wet rags in the bend area? How long do you leave the moisture on the surface?

Did you take a whack at this yet?

Did you take a whack at this yet?

Not yet. I'm working on the body core right now. I should be ready soonish...? :wink:

You could try putting the Masonite in boiling hot water for a couple of minutes. Should be pliable after that. Use a blow dryer to dry it off & keep it hot before contacting wood with it. Good luck & take care. Bob