|
|
Chewie219 April 16th, 2012, 10:04 AM Is there a less expensive fret saw other than the Stewmac one that I can purchase? I found a saw at Lowes that looked like it would work but I am concerned about the thickness of the blade. Once again thanks for the help.
xardoz April 16th, 2012, 10:10 AM Harbor Freight has this Japanese flush cut saw for about $10. The kerf seems to work pretty well with Grizzly's fretwire.
http://www.harborfreight.com/japanese-flush-cut-saw-39273.html
The blade is pretty flexible, though, and there's a blob of varnish on the end that makes drawing it all the way through my miter box slots a pain.
Picton April 16th, 2012, 11:22 AM +1. The HF saw is fine; if you'd like, you can glue on a spline or a depth stop to stiffen things up a tad.
xardoz April 16th, 2012, 11:28 AM My miter box holds the saw tight enough so that flex isn't an issue. That being said, the first few slots I tested with this saw were done freehand, just following a pencil line. Worked fine.
fretman_2 April 16th, 2012, 11:42 AM I used the Harbor Freight saw for a while and found it too flexible. It's an ok alternative, but I just purchased the StewMac fret slotting system (saw, template, and mitre box) and it's a universe away from using the HF saw!
sfcmark April 16th, 2012, 11:46 AM Harbor Freight has this Japanese flush cut saw for about $10. The kerf seems to work pretty well with Grizzly's fretwire.
http://www.harborfreight.com/japanese-flush-cut-saw-39273.html
The blade is pretty flexible, though, and there's a blob of varnish on the end that makes drawing it all the way through my miter box slots a pain.
Yup, the kerf on the HF Japanese saw is .024" - just .001" more than a Stewmac Fret Saw for a LOT less.
jpbturbo even made an adjustable depth stop for his.
Chewie219 April 16th, 2012, 11:52 AM Is there maybe a way to reinforce the HF saw? Maybe attach a thicker piece of metal to the top?
ugly_guitar_guy April 16th, 2012, 12:25 PM Here's my HF saw with "depth stop mod." Pretty simple, and makes the saw much more rigid, although I'm sure it's not nearly as rigid as a true fret saw, but works very well!
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b27/ugly_guitar_guy/2012%20TDPRI%20COntest%20Build/2012-04-07_15-02-18_131.jpg
fretman_2 April 16th, 2012, 01:08 PM Actually adding the depth stop does stiffen the HF saw up considerably. But, it still flexes where the blade meets the handle. If you could reinforce it all the way through the handle then you'd have something. The StewMac saw is very, very stiff.
Is there maybe a way to reinforce the HF saw? Maybe attach a thicker piece of metal to the top?
Picton April 16th, 2012, 01:10 PM Is there maybe a way to reinforce the HF saw? Maybe attach a thicker piece of metal to the top?
See post #3: glue on a spline or add a depth stop. A spline's a thicker piece of metal you'd attach to the top.
The point to any pullsaw is that you need to be super-careful NOT to exert downward pressure while pushing the saw to reset the stroke; almost every time I've done this, it has bent the sawblade. As long as you're pulling straight, the saw should mostly stay straight.
Commodore 64 April 16th, 2012, 01:14 PM I have both the HF saw and a Marples flush cut saw from Lowes. I prefer using my .020 nut slotting saw as it's the most rigid. You can just sticky tape on some plexiglass...I also did this with my HF saw. They are OK, and can get the job done. I've done 2 necks with these saws.
You can see them all here. The frets will seat with all 3 saws, unless you bugger about with the blade while trying to saw...which happens at least once on 21 frets, IME.
http://www.lucky-cricket.com/files/TDPRI_neck_fret.jpg
The stewmac fret saw is only 27 bucks, and I have about that invested in my 2 less than ideal saws. I won't count the .020 nut slottign saw because I bought that for nuts. Anyways, if I had a do-over, I'd just poney up the scratch for the stewmac saw.
Edit: I just put my moeny where my mouth is:
Order summary:
Standard Shipping
Your order will ship Monday, April 16 and arrive in 1-2 business days (Mon-Fri).
Item Qty Description Price Total
Medium Fretwire - Medium/medium, 68 ft (1 lb) $44.43 $44.43
Strap Buttons - Chrome, set of 2 $3.52
Gauged Nut Slotting Files - 0.050" width 12.95
Gauged Nut Slotting Files - 0.013" width $12.95
Adjustable Fret Slotting Saw - Saw only $27.52
Shepherd April 16th, 2012, 02:52 PM I have this one, $7.50. Cuts .022"
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/zon/zon35-350.htm
http://www.freetimehobbies.com/images/products/thumb/ZON35350.jpg
LocustPlague April 16th, 2012, 04:16 PM I went with one of these.
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddles/Special_tools_for:_Nuts_and_saddles/Gauged_Saws.html?actn=100101&xst=3&xsr=11980
Chewie219 April 16th, 2012, 07:48 PM Well I went by HF this afternoon. I purchased one of their Japanese saws. I am a little nervous after getting home and trying it on a test price of wood. It is pretty flimsy. I am thinking that I am just going to purchase one from Stewmac. Since this is my first build I have spent way to much time to screw this up.
jefrs April 16th, 2012, 08:02 PM I have this one, $7.50. Cuts .022"
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/zon/zon35-350.htm
http://www.freetimehobbies.com/images/products/thumb/ZON35350.jpg
That's the thing! - also known as a "Gents Saw" and available in different sizes and teeth. It's a small version of the Tenon and Dovetail saws. There is also an even smaller one called a Slitting Saw which generally has a 0.010-in cut and no set to the teeth. The better ones have hardened blades and will cut soft metals (used for jewellery) but as they cannot be resharpened are a somewhat disposable item.
The thing with a hand saw like this is you can get a very precise cut without tearing. If you want to ensure vertical then you set up the block of an engineers square alongside the blade.
Fred_Garvin April 16th, 2012, 08:45 PM I have the Zona saw, it is the right size, but cuts like crap. The Japanese saw from LMI is awesome, cuts beautifully. The one SM sells looks to be the same thing. Costs more than $10, but well worth it to me.
|
|