6G15 Reverb Build

Hi there - i posted about prepping for this a couple of weeks ago. I'm getting ready to get my final set of parts and had just a couple of questions before i get started.

Transformers:
I'm going to go with the Triode Electronics set (http://triodeelectronics.com/reverbbundle.html)

Rectifiers:
Full-wave rectification using the same method that JBennett used in his build (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/shock-brothers-diy-amps/311595-eyelet-board-do-over-63-ri-reverb-unit.html) a few weeks back.

Filtering Stage:
The layout's i've seen call for 40/40/40. I don't want to push the transformers too hard but would there be any downside to 47/47/47. I've been using F&T on my last few builds and i can get my hands on 47uF without any issue.

Reverb Tank:
The MOD tanks have been getting good reviews. I don't know tanks super well but i've been reading about the specification codes and it looks like the 4AB3C1B (http://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/amp_parts/P-RMOD-4AB3C1B) is the "correct" one to get. I don't see a 3-spring version with the same i/o impedance, nor do i see any other than an 8ohm input. Do any of you guys have any experience with these tanks?

The rest:
I've got a Weber chassis i'll be using and a cabinet from mojotone in the standard brown. It looks great. I'm going to prep the chassis this week and get my remaining parts ordered.

If there's interest i'd be happy to track the build in this thread.

I built the Triode 6G15 kit & used the MOD pan you mentioned. Here's my build thread for reference.
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/shock-brothers-diy-amps/312114-6g15-reverb-build.html

I am very pleased with the Triode kit. I chose Triode over Weber because Triode supplies better components. As far as the pan goes, the MOD 4AB3C1B is great. It sounds fantastic, & can be mounted either in the bottom of the cab or on the front panel. I tried mine both ways & there was no difference in sound. I ended up mounting it on the front panel to keep it out of the way. My chassis was large enough to mount everything inside, but since you're going with the Weber chassis, you'll have to mount OT & choke outside. I followed the Triode diagram to the letter & luckily, experienced
no issues. Please post your progress here. It's always good to see how other people do things. Hope this helps.

Bob

Yeah, keep posting on it. 47uF will work fine BTW.

I'd love to watch the build here. This is on my shortlist of diy stuff.

Cool, i've got most all of what i need but i need to sort through my spare parts and put in what'll probably be a small parts order in the next couple of days.

I've got transformers en route which should let me do most of my chassis preparation this week/end.

i've been looking around for a while and it sounds like the stock 6g15 circuit is the right thing to build here. If there are any useful changes or modifications i'd be interested in hearing about them.

I'll try to track things here with pictures as much as possible.

I would really like to see as many pics and comments you have, this build is on my buckets list( it was this or skydiving).

Keep us up to date on your build. I'll try to answer any questions along the way. Overall the 6g15 was pretty simple to get going. Especially considering I had never built any amp before. I just stuck to the old schematic and layout as much as I could.

I've got a ton of photos of my project here if they help. (http://imgur.com/a/nZ2bR#0)(easier than digging through my wandering build thread).

One thing you should have is a good soldering iron. Not just a cheap 25 watter from radio shack. That will get you through the circuit board but you really need 60 watts to make some of those connections with the pots/chassis. I guess maybe you'll be doing a star ground scheme at one chassis lug? Maybe it's not an issue in that case. Anyway, good luck!

That MOD tank is a great one. That's what I have in mine now. I had an accutronics in there but wanted to see if the MOD really made a difference. The MOD was much nicer and gave a lot more reverb. It's all personal preference. I'm sure there are many who might think the MOD was a little much, but with a 6g15 I think the MOD is great. Especially since you can dial it back with all three controls. Maybe in a single knob fender combo setting you might not be able to tame it as you would like, but with three knobs... it gives you a full range, from a light room/hall echo to a harsh, messy, garage crash.

Hi guys - i got a little bit done this weekend.

The most important thing was that i got the rest of my parts ordered. Hopefully everything'll be here by the end of the week so i can build this coming weekend. The only thing i haven't been able to source yet is the Tone pot (50k Linear). I've been ordering parts for my projects from Watts for a while and he doesn't have them in stock so i've got to look elsewhere.

My transformers and reverb tank arrived this week. The choke that comes with that triode kit is big! A couple of questions regarding layout with regard to transformer placement:

- Should i mount the power-transformer inside the chassis? There's room. It's also pre-drilled (Weber Chassis) to mount it on the back. I'm assuming the Choke and OT will do on the outside?

- I was planning on putting the filter caps on the back of the chassis covered in metal (similar to what JBennett did) and mounting the rectifier board in the chassis where the rectifier tube would typically be. (Any reason not to do that assuming there's space?

- Is there any reason to try and spring mount the reverb tank? and if so is there a reasonable way to build/install a locking handle similar to the fender units?

Here are some pictures.
- Measured (twice) and drilled the cabinet and mounted the reverb tank.
- Expanded the 8-pin socket hole with a big POS unibit i got on Amazon to fit a belton mylex socket, it needs a 1-3/16" hole. 5 (full) minutes with the deburring tool and it's good.
- Fit the triode transformer set. The transformers from Triode have different mount spacing than the weber chassis is drilled for. I'll probably wait until i have my circuit boards and do the chassis drilling all at once.

So far I'm off to a pretty smooth start, more to come.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2651.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2650.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2652.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2653.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2654.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2655.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2657.jpg

EDIT: I've got the tank in upside down right now, i'm not sure yet how it'll end up. I'm also not sure if this tank's designed to be mounted upside down. I've read that the MOD tanks can be mounted much more freely than the accutronics ones. sounds fishy to me :confused:

The tank's output transducer needs to be as far away from the PT-end of the chassis as possible, in order to minimise unwanted EM coupling

Hi guys - i got a little bit done this weekend.

The most important thing was that i got the rest of my parts ordered. Hopefully everything'll be here by the end of the week so i can build this coming weekend. The only thing i haven't been able to source yet is the Tone pot (50k Linear). I've been ordering parts for my projects from Watts for a while and he doesn't have them in stock so i've got to look elsewhere.

My transformers and reverb tank arrived this week. The choke that comes with that triode kit is big! A couple of questions regarding layout with regard to transformer placement:

- Should i mount the power-transformer inside the chassis? There's room. It's also pre-drilled (Weber Chassis) to mount it on the back. I'm assuming the Choke and OT will do on the outside?
Sure, you can mount the PT inside. Just don't mount it right next to the board.

- I was planning on putting the filter caps on the back of the chassis covered in metal (similar to what JBennett did) and mounting the rectifier board in the chassis where the rectifier tube would typically be. (Any reason not to do that assuming there's space?
Sounds like a good plan. With the caps out back, it'll free up a bit more space inside for the PT.

- Is there any reason to try and spring mount the reverb tank? and if so is there a reasonable way to build/install a locking handle similar to the fender units?
I spring mounted my MOD tank to the front panel first, then tried it on the bottom of the cab, & then tried it hard-mounted to the front panel. Absolutely no difference in sound. I left it hard-mounted to the front panel.

Here are some pictures.
- Measured (twice) and drilled the cabinet and mounted the reverb tank.
- Expanded the 8-pin socket hole with a big POS unibit i got on Amazon to fit a belton mylex socket, it needs a 1-3/16" hole. 5 (full) minutes with the deburring tool and it's good.
- Fit the triode transformer set. The transformers from Triode have different mount spacing than the weber chassis is drilled for. I'll probably wait until i have my circuit boards and do the chassis drilling all at once.

So far I'm off to a pretty smooth start, more to come.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2651.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2650.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2652.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2653.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2654.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2655.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2657.jpg

EDIT: I've got the tank in upside down right now, i'm not sure yet how it'll end up. I'm also not sure if this tank's designed to be mounted upside down. I've read that the MOD tanks can be mounted much more freely than the accutronics ones. sounds fishy to me :confused:According to the tech I spoke with at AES, this particular MOD tank can be either bottom-mounted, or mounted to the front panel as long as the in/out jacks are pointing up. Just make sure the jacks are facing up & you'll be fine.

Hope this helps.

Bob

I think it would be worthwhile to spring mount the verb vertically on the front panel per the Original design. Also, my fender reissue has the PT inside, so I guess if you can stuff it in there go for it! (disclaimer: take my advice with a grain of NaCl)
I'm on an iPhone and don't always see people's pics and links, but if you want i can post some pics of the spring mount stuff from mine. I'll bet a local hardware store has suitable springs etc.

I read somewhere that vertically mounted tanks sound better (maybe Gerald Weber's "Hip Guide to Vintage Amps); it's an easy thing to test. IMO there is a teensy tiny bit more clarity to the reverb, absolutely unnoticeable under normal use.

*edit: from the pic it looks like you have it spring mounted already?*

Looks good so far. The hardest part about putting the electrolytics on the outside of the chassis is drilling the holes, so it looks like you can handle the job.

Building a lock mechanism for the spring tank looks like it would require very little. A drill, an "L" bracket, and some screws. OR, rethink the mechanism. That is the clunkiest part of the units. I'm sure there is a way to install a smarter system.

I got most everything else i needed late this week. I was able to spend some time this afternoon getting the circuit boards drilled and mounted, the PT, OT and Choke drilled and mounted etc...

I've got a couple of questions about all of those and wanted to check in with you all before i proceed any further.

Power Transformer:
I've got it mounted on the inside of the chassis. I drilled two holes for it and it fits great, plenty of room for the power switch and power cable to enter the chassis. No problems there

Choke:
Since the fender layout doesn't have any detail on the choke or filtering board i've got to guess a little from the pictures i've seen online (JBennett, yours are very helpful) and from the weber layout.
- Should i place the choke on the outside of the chassis but just past where the PT is mounted?
- Do i run the choke straight to the + side of the first two filter caps? And if so do I bring the choke's wires into the chassis and then back out to the doghouse?

Output Transformer:
- I was planning on putting it on the outside of the chassis right next to the choke. Based on the pictures I've seen that looks right but the wire runs for the choke and OT would intersect. (In order PT -> Choke -> OT)
- If i put the OT near the PT and the Choke farthest away from the PT (PT -> OT -> Choke) then the wiring wouldn't cross but my little bit of knowledge tells me that that's not a good idea as the OT would pick up a lot of noise being close to the PT.

Doghouse:
- To wire the doghouse properly should i just follow a logical interpretation of the weber layout (https://taweber.powweb.com/store/5g15_layout.jpg)?
- JBennett, did you bring the ground from the filtering caps back through the chassis to the inside and chassis ground there?
- Also, are those 2 1/2" grommeted holes that you used to pass between the front and back for the filter caps?

Thanks for the help here. I'm trying to get my layout all set. Once i've got that i'm hoping the build goes smoothly and quickly. It always has seemed to work that way in the past anyway ;)

Here are some pictures of the layout i've got set right now

Power Transformer:
- I think i'm all set there

Choke:
- Let me know if the placement for it is good?
- The choke wires route through the grommeted hole and then inside the chassis to the doghouse

OT:
- I think i'm all set here too

Rectifier Board:
- I don't have a ton of space but i think it will work. I'm following the full-wave rectification layout

Filter Cap Board:
- I've got 2 grommet'd holes in the chassis that feed the two holes in my circuit board

Circuit Board:
- Unfortunately it's mounted just a little crooked which bugs me, but otherwise it's sound. I'm going to mount it on standoffs to allow access to the grommet'd holes that go through to the doghouse.

Let me know if anything looks out of place or out of whack?

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2658.jpg
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2659.jpg
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2660.jpg
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2661.jpg

solid looking start. Nice photos too. Keep them coming.

...to the doghouse.

Let me know if anything looks out of place or out of whack?

Well, I would be in the doghouse if I put anything related to a guitar part on luncheon mats. (gasp!) :wink:

Drilling your chassis in the hallway will get you there too. I have recent experience with that :mrgreen:

I think i'm ready to build. I enlarged the holes on my filter cap board a little which should make things a little more manageable.

I've got potentially 2 outstanding items and 1 question:
- Going to drill a hole for chassis ground. Following the layout I should have the mains ground, the filter cap ground and the ground from the rectifier all at the same point, is that correct?
- I think i'm going to follow your example (JBennett) and just make my own filter cap cover. Yours came out nice. Any advice other than measure-twice/cut-once?

I also fit the chassis to the cabinet now that choke and OT are mounted. I was concerned that due to the size of the choke i'd have a problem with the reverb tank. Fortunately i don't as it site up higher than the reverb tank. If the tank was higher there wouldn't only be about 1/4" of clearance.

Here are a couple of pics of the rectifier and filter cap boards. I'll see about populating some more later tonight although it may have to wait until later in the week.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2662.jpg
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2664.jpg

Since the power cord wiring sometimes gets confusing (i've seen it a few different ways on newer layouts and the old layouts didn't take into consideration the mains ground) I thought I would make sure there wasn't any issue with the way i was planning on doing it.

From the House Mains:
BLACK = HOT
WHITE = NEUTRAL
GREEN = GROUND

Power Cord:
Black (Hot) -> 1A Slo-Blo Fuse -> Power Switch -> Black PT Lead
White (Neutral) -> White PT Lead
Green (Ground) -> Chassis Ground at PT mounting Lug (or should it be a chassis lug shared with the rectifier ground and filter cap ground?)

I think i'm ready to build. I enlarged the holes on my filter cap board a little which should make things a little more manageable.

I've got potentially 2 outstanding items and 1 question:
- Going to drill a hole for chassis ground. Following the layout I should have the mains ground, the filter cap ground and the ground from the rectifier all at the same point, is that correct?

You can use an existing PT Bolt with a star washer and its nut with a two or three lug terminal strip.

Expand the mounting hole in the terminal strip. Solder your grounds across the strip so the whole thing goes to ground.

Yes, all the things you mention go to ground at that point near the PT.

- I think i'm going to follow your example (JBennett) and just make my own filter cap cover. Yours came out nice. Any advice other than measure-twice/cut-once?

I also fit the chassis to the cabinet now that choke and OT are mounted. I was concerned that due to the size of the choke i'd have a problem with the reverb tank. Fortunately i don't as it site up higher than the reverb tank. If the tank was higher there wouldn't only be about 1/4" of clearance.

Here are a couple of pics of the rectifier and filter cap boards. I'll see about populating some more later tonight although it may have to wait until later in the week.

Looking very good. Its good to take your time and do it right.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2662.jpg
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2664.jpg

Looking well-thought-out and carefully assembled.

The Choke wires you asked about don't go back out of the chassis once they come in the grommet hole. They just get soldered to the circuit board. THEN those leads from the doghouse attach to them on the board at nearby eyelets.

For the doghouse grounds, you can see I just ran the grounds following the original fender layout, each ground come down through the grommet holes back into the chassis and grounds to the chassis on the inside. I tried to make mine as close to the originals as possible, figuring that they engineers at fender already worked out a quiet grounding scheme. My unit makes no unwanted noise (well, my neighbors might not agree) and therefor I didn't need to try any modern "star" ground schemes out.

Here was the doghouse drawing I came up with and followed. (ignore the incorrect resister in there, I fixed that later. It should be a 10K 2W)

http://i.imgur.com/I8Re4.jpg

I think those connections tying the grounds together are redundant, but they probably won't do any harm.

Do you have a drawing you're following for the grounding scheme? Are you sticking to the original 60's layout?

http://i.imgur.com/1ZC0o.jpg

If you are looking at this Photo... and now, you ARE:
http://i.imgur.com/ehKWV.jpg

Just above the tank damping bar you will see one grommet hole. That hole has four wires the pass through it. The two black wires come from the choke. The Red and Blue wires come from the output transformer.

The two Black wires and the Red wire all attach to points on the far left of the main circuit board. The choke wires are interchangeable and you don't have to worry about which wire is which. The Red wire goes to the left side of the circuit board too and the Blue goes to the Octal socket.


Then, just above the large tube socket (6k6) there is another grommet hole with a Green and Black wire. Those both come from the output transformer. They both go to the first RCA jack (reading left to right). Green to the tip, black to the ground on the outer tab.

you can see those two holes better here:
http://i.imgur.com/BbBOc.jpg

THEN, there are two more grommeted holes at the TOP of my chassis, near the control pots. Harder to see. Those are the two holes that lead to the doghouse. You can see wires passing through in this side shot.

http://i.imgur.com/wuSPS.jpg

Here is a better shot of those two doghouse holes.
http://i.imgur.com/KmIf5.jpg

I need to get a better handle on how the choke ties into the filter caps in the layout you're using. I've been looking at the weber layout and in it the choke attaches directly to the filter caps. I think the layout you're using does the same thing but with an easier layout.

On my filtering board i tied the grounds together so i only have to run a single wire from the doghouse to chassis ground (instead of 3). That's something i picked up from the weber layout.

It probably doesn't play as big a part when it's filter grounds but i've been trying to follow to a less-is-more approach to the amount of wire i use in my builds.

One of the reasons - and we'll see if i finally fix it with this build - is that my current reverb unit acts as a radio and there hasn't been really anything i can do to fix it. (i happen to live on a hill covered with antennas and am in direct line of site with another hill full of antennas, but it's only when i use the reverb that i have a problem).

So i've kind of halted on progress until i get the filter cap cover sorted out. Since it requires drilling a few more hole in the chassis i really want to do that before i get anything mounted. I spent some time on it this morning with the $.97 piece of metal i bought at Home Depot yesterday.

I made a paper template, cut and folded it to make sure it fit, transferred it to the metal and cut the metal out.

Unfortunately I really don't have a good way of bending the metal with good corners. In the end it looks like an amateur POS. I'm thinking of eating crow on this one and ordering the $15 cover.

Here are my pics from this morning's work. I don't have one of the "completed" cover but rest assured it's an uneven 3 dimensional razor blade with mounting holes drilled in it :neutral:

I think i'm going to place an order tonight and hopefully be able to have a go at it again next weekend.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2665.jpg
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2666.jpg
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2667.jpg
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2669.jpg

When I do some bending at home I clamp the metal in the vice between two pieces of bar stock and if I need a sharp corner I will finish the bend off with another piece of bar stock and a hammer. I am sure you could do the same with a few pieces of hardwood.

this is the problem with city living. i've got some hand-tools, a power-drill, a rubber mallet and some short scraps of 2x4, that's about it.

today the rubber-mallet and 2x4 was trying to do what you're vice, hammer and square-rod stock was doing. maybe i'll get a piece of square stock tomorrow, or a brick. i might be able to make that work.

this is the problem with city living. i've got some hand-tools, a power-drill, a rubber mallet and some short scraps of 2x4, that's about it.

today the rubber-mallet and 2x4 was trying to do what you're vice, hammer and square-rod stock was doing. maybe i'll get a piece of square stock tomorrow, or a brick. i might be able to make that work.

There is only so much you can do with what you got. Sometimes you can't do it all yourself.

http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/foxweb.dll/moreinfo@d:/dfs/elevclients/cemirror/ELEVATOR.FXP?item=P-H712

Either that, or buy yourself a decent box and pan brake

Yeah... I made mine the same way and kind of regret it... a little, not really. It's imperfect but I just couldn't bring myself to spend 25 bucks (after shipping) for the cover. And it has its charms. (and you'll never see it) I wish I'd taken a bit more time since even my mounting holes were off, but in the end, it serves the purpose and I own a cool pair of snips.

i've got one of these en route:

Fender Deluxe Reverb Capacitor Cover (http://angela.com/fendercapacitorcancoverforreissuedeluxereverbandvi broverb.aspx)

I got a few other things i'll need for future (mostly to try and justify the shipping to myself)

I hope it comes this week so i can build this weekend. I'll be out of town the week after.

i'll keep you posted.

The part arrived last night and i did a test fit this morning. It looks like it's going to fit perfectly - which is a big relief. It's larger than it needs to be but will work great.

That should be the last piece, i've got to drill the mounting holes for the cap cover but otherwise i should be able to start with my build this weekend.

I had a little time this afternoon and got the chassis drilled for the capacitor cover and then went ahead with the A/C mains power and getting the heaters run (my least favorite part of building :idea: )

Here are some pics. I'm going to try to work on the circuit board tonight and hopefully have some time to put in tomorrow.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2671.jpg
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2672.jpg
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt303/jchabalk/6G15%20Build/6G15-2673.jpg

good start! it's always interesting to see how different folks do things. I like stranded wire that's not cloth coated. I do the circuit board first, pots second, filaments third, sockets fourth, and transformers last. the order doesn't matter as long as it works for you!

I'll keep watching!

Nice work, I've been watching this one and good to see you getting some progress done.
Getting close now.

Can you guys help me with capacitor codes? I think at this point i'm confusing myself but everything i'm finding is telling me i don't have the right caps.

I need a couple @ .1uF and .047uF. I ordered them as part of my build. The caps that I have have the following codes:

103k on one and 472k on the other. Not being familiar with capacitor codes i looked them up to double-check before building.

103k = .01uF (I need .1uF)
472k = .0047uF (I need .047uF)

I think i've got the wrong caps. if that's right it'll be another bummer and more delay.

AES has .047uf in orange drop 715 series
http://www.tubesandmore.com/
and in 716 series
http://www.tubesandmore.com/
use the drop down box for size

.1uf is listed there too

Can you guys help me with capacitor codes? I think at this point i'm confusing myself but everything i'm finding is telling me i don't have the right caps.

I need a couple @ .1uF and .047uF. I ordered them as part of my build. The caps that I have have the following codes:

103k on one and 472k on the other. Not being familiar with capacitor codes i looked them up to double-check before building.

103k = .01uF (I need .1uF)
472k = .0047uF (I need .047uF)

I think i've got the wrong caps. if that's right it'll be another bummer and more delay.

I'm not an expert on this, but I've gotten a lot of caps that seem to be measure in pf so have seen numbers like yours. I would think the 103k is .1 uf and the 472k is .47 uf. can you,just call the vendor and ask them?

http://www.turretboards.com/capacitor_conversion_chart.htm

472K = 47+00's =4700pF = 4.7nF = 0.0047uF
473K = 47+000's =47000pF = 47nF = 0.047uF

1F = 1,000mF = 1,000,000uF = 1,000,000,000nF = 1,000,000,000,000pF
(farads, millifarads, microfarads, nanofarads, picofarads)

See notes about markings for E series

Thanks guys, i was using that turretboards.com conversion table last night, just wanted to make sure i wasn't missing anything.

I found the invoice when i ordered a couple of weeks ago and it looks like the error was on their side, i guess the wrong parts made it into the envelope. it's

a bummer but it happens though. I dug through my parts stash this morning and i've got some no-nameers for the .1's by i'm missing the .0022. i'm out of town for the next week and a half for work anyway so i guess aside from the wasted shipping i'll put an order in and plan on continuing over memorial day.

i've got a few more things i can work on this afternoon - getting the tone stack and jacks all set etc...