Converting Archtop Guitar To Bass

I know I am probably thinking too far ahead (with two active projects) or perhaps just idle dreaming. Since I have always loved archtops I am thinking of a jumbo body singlecut guitar to bass conversion. Naturally A short scale neck would be used. I have had a Framus double cut semi hollow & a Jack Casady signature but what I really want is a deep body ib singlecut finished in antique.
Something on the order of this Washburn body & finish:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-WASHBURN-J600-Hollow-body-Archtop-Jazz-Box-Guitar-/290696714245?pt=Guitar&hash=item43aedfd805

To get a bass much like this:
http://northland.smugmug.com/Music/Bass/i-HPJ2BDt/0/M/999landscapearb204fl-M.jpg

Does anyone know about changing necks on an archtop body? Thanks & take care. Bob

I don't know how feasible that would be, as, unlike a solid guitar body, archtops are braced specifically for the string tension and bridge placement of a guitar. You're asking for top collapse if you put bass strings on on one, and move the bridge...

Tim

I don't know how feasible that would be, as, unlike a solid guitar body, archtops are braced specifically for the string tension and bridge placement of a guitar. You're asking for top collapse if you put bass strings on on one, and move the bridge...

Tim
+(n+1)

http://northland.smugmug.com/Music/Bass/i-zXRjVmq/2/XL/89259619WML4h-O-2-XL.jpg
Thanks Tim. Things are always too good to be true. I used to use my old Slingerland Songster by changing the nut & bridge to four groove units then string with heavy gauge guitar strings, Many many years ago ( 1968 or so ) I had such a guitar that was strung with an E & three A`s. Worked like a charm but was fully acoustic. Now days I would like to be able to plug in. Take care. Bob

http://northland.smugmug.com/Music/Bass/i-968Gw6Q/4/XL/003-XL.jpg
Well I might be satisfied then to use something like my short scale Hohner. I would make a brown Tort shell PG . Then cut F-holes through PG & then through flat top body. This would eliminate the sound hole & with it feedback when amplified. It wouldn`t do anything to brag about for the sound but everyone knows that acoustic/electric basses are for all practical purposes an electric instrument. Oh yeah I would go with the K&K Pure Sound pick up & pre amp.Thanks again & take care. Bob

I still have not let go of the idea of cutting out F-holes in the above (mentioned) Hohner bass & covering the oval sound hole to eliminate feedback. I could make a PG that would cover the existing hole much like electrics use. Could even use veneer to do it with. Take care. Bob
Anyone know where I can find patterns for F-holes. Thanks & take care

f-holes at this link on Page 2 & 3:
http://www.scalelength.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=68&sort=20a&page=1&zenid=07d1183dc4374e7013e61a4d7e116509

Again, I think you might run into trouble, as this top was designed and braced for its present configuration, and cutting F holes might fatally weaken the top, particularly if there's any bracing on the underside...

Tim

Tim there seems to be room between braces on this one. I would be sure to double check myself before actually cutting into the body. Its just something I am thinking of as a special interest project along with the addition of a pickguard (even though I play finger style or use Wedgie Rubbers). Thanks & take care. Bob

Tim has good points of concern, indeed.

robert s, if you can make it work, then please show the process of how you developed this, or some pics, so we can follow and give recommendations. We, in the bass community of TDPRI would love to see this happen, as many would follow suit (perhaps myself, inculded) in future DYI projects.

I have a Gretsch 5120, that would be a great candidate, but I lack the know how and perhaps some tools...

JimmyJam I`m confused. The 5120 is an archtop that has F-holes as a standard fixture. take care. Bob

JimmyJam I`m confused. The 5120 is an archtop that has F-holes as a standard fixture. take care. Bob

I'm probably the one confused here and not understanding this project and posting stupid stuff, nothing's changed... carry on. :rolleyes:

Thanks Glen. Thats what I was looking for. Take care. Bob

Had to reply since I enjoyed browsing your link to ALL those cool basses.

Thanks!
http://i363.photobucket.com/albums/oo72/JohnMorciglio/IMAG0286.jpg

This is an archtop I mocked up to check for neck-dive and overall balance.
Used a 34" scale. Got a slotted/dotted EBONY board from Allparts, (clearence sect.).

Very surprized how well it balances and hangs. No need to go short scale with a larger body. Size is smaller than a 335 and bigger than a 339.
Used the templates from my full carbon mold to see if I'd be able to use the same body plug for a matching bass.

Maybee find one of those cheapy GFS or Rondo archtops (used) for a donor.

Remember, the bridge will be back towards the end and (most) of those have full tone blocks. The peak of the arch might mess with you but you should go-for-it!

There are some nice examples on your link. Thanks again.

JM

Sorry 'bout the fuzzy phone pics.
The lenz must need cleaning. It WAS out-performing the camera?
http://i363.photobucket.com/albums/oo72/JohnMorciglio/IMAG0283.jpg
JM

http://northland.smugmug.com/Music/Bass/i-8jcx293/2/XL/m1IMAG0283-XL.jpg


http://northland.smugmug.com/Music/Bass/i-8jcx293/2/XL/m1IMAG0283-XL.jpg[/IMG]

Nice job Johnny. And thanks for the good word on the Touching Basses gallery. I worked with your photo a bit. Hope thats OK with you.

I recently had an Epiphone Jack Casady signature. It was heavy. Had neck dive & hurt my shoulder to raise my arm up over it. It had to go though i liked the sound a lot. I`m thinking that something like that one linked to in the opening post might be better suited to me. The same concept as a Dean Stylist or Hofner President is what interest me now but since I have a fine acoustic now (post #5) I may not persuade myself to take the plunge. I`m a dreamer by nature I guess. Maybe thats why I am so fascinated with photos. For the type basses you show here I like the Hohner (Bartel) Black Widow,

http://northland.smugmug.com/Music/Bass/i-B3WhKpg/0/L/bartellbass01-L.jpg
though I have never played one. I have had a couple of Hohner acoustics that I think are solid instruments. Years ago ( mid sixties ) I owned a very nice short scale Framus semi hollow archtop in tobacco burst that has about the same shape as yours and the 335 Gibson. It was without question the finest instrument I have owned or played. I still miss that one.Thanks for sharing & take care. Bob

johnny I am getting ready to begin tele thinline bass project and so I wanted to ask you a couple of questions about yours.
what area have you found to be most challenging overall & what area would you say has been or expect to be most rewarding? Thanks & take care. Bob

You would need to probably add a solid centre block or some other way of strengthening the top or else it will collapse right in!

You would need to probably add a solid centre block or some other way of strengthening the top or else it will collapse right in!

Doubt it. String tension on a typical electric guitar is 140 lbs. On a bass it's about 160 lbs. Not enough difference to matter.

I read string tension is closer to 200lbs. Who knows?
Had an Ovation 5string made at their custom shop. To match my Elite.
Was gonna take some pics.

They tried to talk me into the full carbon top at the time because of the 34" scale.
They make a Korean (?) Celebrity with a short scale.
Notorious for the bridges pulling.

Funny that I blew them off on the carbon, (early 90's) and now that's mostly all I work with.

The bridge is pulling up but seems to be from a bolt that fell off.

It is a VERY nice sounding bass to play, Amp'd or acoustic.
LOVE their neck profiles. (semi-hard V)

Challenges; taking time on the finish work. Always in a big hurry.
Rewards; making (some) that sound better than most. Having a guy with what I thought was a REALLY sweet 16 come over and buy one ont the spot :)

With the full carbon builds, I will try it a couple different ways (tone block, sound posts and full hollow) to see what works/sounds best.

JM

A proper archtop has two longitudinal braces or arches running the length of the soundboard, plus other braces. The f-holes are there to let the soundboard move as it vibrates to produce sound, they are not some random ornament.

A dreadnought generally has X-bracing which would run under where the f-holes would be. Hence its O-hole, which is not a random placing either.

The Thomastik site gives string tension at concert for all its strings.
http://www.thomastik-infeld.com/guitars/index.html
About 4x30 = 120-lb for a bass (Thomastik-Infeld tend to be light tension)

what was I thinking? Take care. Bob

I attempted a similar conversion on an almost identical archtop back when I was a teenager because I couldn't afford a new bass . . . I completed the conversion . . . looked great . . . sounded like a bass . . . loved the one-inch action on it . . . lasted about a month . . . snapped that darn neck right off . . . BTW though, I knew little to nothing about wood when I was 16 . . .