should i use this super glue for the paint chip on the back of my baja?

should i use this super glue for the paint chip on the back of my baja? the paint is so thick that the paint was just "lifted" but still attached to the body. so its like a small flap. i bought it like this, i love it. thanks.

Superglue will likely work perfectly. You'll want to clamp that flake down, and be very, very careful about glue seeping out before you do so. I often wax the area around it so the glue is easier to clean up if it does squeeze out.

With superglue there's two ways to go:

Thick glue: Not seeing the flake or how it is attached, or how much access you have to the underside of the flake, it is possible you can spread some thick superglue and then press the flake firmly into its closed position, holding it for 30 seconds or so. (Use a Nitrile or latex glove since or you may get glue on your finger.) KokoTele's advise about smearing some wax (on the flake as well as the surrounding area) to aid cleanup is excellent (I like plain, colorless shoe polish, e.g. Kiwi brand "neutral". A Q-tip works well for applying the wax. Breath on the wax to soften it first.) It's best to let it dry completely before dealing with any squeezed-out glue, otherwise you will smear it around.

Thin glue: If lifting the flake high enough to spread glue around is impractical, you can use the very thin (watery) glue, but it's tricky, as this stuff goes everywhere if you're not careful, and makes a real mess of nice finish. The trick is to get the thin capillary "whip tips" from Stew-Mac. Remove the tip cap from the bottle, and replace with the whip tip. Cut the flexible whip to a reasonable length like 1.5 inches. (Note: Don't cut a huge hole in the end of the brand-new glue bottle, a tiny exit hole prevents the thin glue from surging out suddenly on its own, allowing you to orient the bottle vertically if necessary and still control the flow.)

So again, smear wax on the surrounding finish to protect it. Hold the chip fairly firmly in place, exactly how you want it. (If it is awkward, have a helper hold the guitar and press on the flake, while you handle the glue bottle.) Then carefully use the whip tip to apply tiny drops of glue right on the edge of the flake, allowing it to wick instantly into the gap. You don't need or want much glue to flow, if you apply too much it won't all wick in fast enough and may run around outside on you. Yikes! Since the gap is so narrow (you're holding it shut) it will spread all around inside instantly. This is capillary action working for you. You may want to hit it from two different sides if you think it will help get complete coverage of the surfaces. This thin glue will set completely almost instantly, so make sure the flake is positioned as you want it, because it's going to stay that way for a long time!

Brian

Having explained my superglue ideas, I strongly recommend using Titebond if you can open it up far enough to spread some underneath, then either clamp it or tightly tape it shut for an hour to dry. Cleanup is much safer and easier, as Titebond is water soluble and wont damage lacquer or poly finish.

Brian

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5118/6903119594_008ca42c4e.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theholdsteady/6903119594/) DSCN0524 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theholdsteady/6903119594/) by James Edge (http://www.flickr.com/people/theholdsteady/), on Flickr


the chip came off now. im thinking about not gluing it back on for a couple of reasons. the piece of the chip does not completely cover the bare wood. and it does not bother me too much.

but i would like to protect it from chipping even more. should i just take it to a luthier and have him do whatever it is he would do to protect it from chipping more? what would that be? an epoxy?

here is a photo:

Hmmm, I would glue the chip back on anyway, because that will help protect it from further chipping. If you don't care that much how it looks (I assumed you were after a nearly invisible repair) then I would use superglue to attach it, then use "drop fill" technique using thick superglue to fill in and build up the places around the chip that are missing. That would provide the most prevention of further chipping, and also seal the edges, preventing moisture and other foreign crud from getting into the cracks.

If you attach the chip using plenty of thick glue, some glue will squeeze out around the chip and before it dries you can use a toothpick as a spatula to form a fillet around the chip, essentially starting the drop fill process, and that may be all you care to do at that point.

If you decide to leave the chip off, you have the option of sealing the bare wood with clear lacquer or, again, thick superglue spread around. You could also use clear urethane, or almost anything. But you will still have the edges of the good finish still sitting there exposed to more chipping, having the chip glued back in place will help shield it.

Brian

I tried superglue on a chip just like that on a PRS . It dissolved the chip and looked pretty bad. I wouldn't do it. Stick with a white glue.

White or yellow carpenters glue.... Titebond is good.

Can I recommend Tamiya clear gloss varnish .The model paint .It will stick it back and not spoil the finish or the chip .

Can I recommend Tamiya clear gloss varnish .The model paint .It will stick it back and not spoil the finish or the chip .

all i can find online is the spray. its the paint i want right?