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Building a 5f2 Harp amp

birddog01
April 1st, 2012, 11:13 AM
This is my first attempt at amp building. I have been watching this forum for over a year and reading as much as I could for as long. I have also a 5E3 kit I got from Hackworth/Dave from last summer part of the way completed. Just was waiting for the winter that never was to work on them.

The 5f2 Chassis kit I got from Weber and after printing out the component list I got some other stuff from them and sourced the rest. Now I see how when you source this stuff you can't just build ONE amp as resistors come in packs of 5.:wink:
Transformers and Choke came from Weber as well, I probably should have just bought their kit.
Starting with the Layout once I had enough components.

https://taweber.powweb.com/store/5f2h_layout.jpg

I started dry mounting caps and resistors and figuring out where the OT and Choke were going to go.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1200.jpg?t=1320581693

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1202.jpg?t=1333283382

I was only able to find one photo on the internet on one of these.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1249.jpg?t=1322973532

These Weber Stainless Chassis are nice but much harder to drill than mild steel or aluminum. I had things in and out of the chassis several times checking for mounting applications and fit. When I drill my Choke and OT holes these things are heavy and its a lot of iron, I drilled my holes for #10 screws. A # 7 drill bit and 10-32 to be exact and since they are under the board to hold them I tapped the chassis. The bolts are tightened in place and stay and make for much less fiddling.
Some of the Caps I put a dab of silicone on the board to kinda hold them.
First test fit before drilling for the board.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1257.jpg?t=1326076768
I used a rotary shaft drive dremel tool to open up the power tub
e and rectifier socket holes. I have seen some threads where some people use a plastic spacer under there screws on the sockets but just figured most of those are for the ceramic sockets. Mounting flush to the chassis is ok isn't it?
And please if any expierienced builders have suggestions that cansave me some grief PLEASE let me know.

With most of the board wired and soldered.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1386.jpg?t=1331435540

Prewiring some the input jacks and volume and tone controls. I really didn't want to use the brass plate and use a ground buss so I used the brass plate to hold it.
One thing that caused a delay was this amp from Weber uses a 2M A pot and for the life of me couldn't find one anywhere else so I had to place another minor order to them just for it, then when I got it it was longer shaft so I had to do the same thing again with the volume pot to match so one knob wasn't higher than the other.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1384.jpg?t=1331435513

When mounting the board I used these 1/4" nylon spacers/standoffs form the Tube Depot, put a dab of silicone on them as well during a test fit and let dry overnight. These holes in the chassis and drilled and tapped as well for 8/32 and I can just screw them in and put nuts on the top later no fumbling.
Sorry not a real clear shot but you get the idea.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1372.jpg?t=1331434818

This is going to be a head and not a combo, so once some of the stuff was taken out of the chassis again I figured better test fit some of that as I had taken measurements and worked on the head cab in between some of this other stuff.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1361.jpg?t=1332120477

Hmmmm.... measure several times and cut once. I noticed someting I didn't account for after thinking about this. No way I was going to have to take the amp out to put the humungous KT66 power tube in and I ain't remaking this head cab. Not enough clearance to get the tube in and out so find a large hole saw.:wink:
And with large rubber feet on the bottom I don't think it will be a problem.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1387.jpg?t=1331435313

Now we have access, once gone over with a roundover bit should work even though an afterthought.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1388.jpg?t=1332120369

Alright now back to the amp, when I get hung up I work on the cab. Thats stuff I'm used to.
Time to start final mounting. I wanted an extension speaker jack and a switch for 4 & 8 ohms so I had to drill the chassis for the jack and decided on a mini toggle for the switch after some questioning here on the forum.
The sockets and retianers mounted and my mini switch, as you can see my Choke and OT screws in place.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1403.jpg?t=1333283265

Here's the trannies and choke mounted, even though I'm not using the 2 and 16 ohm wires if someone has a suggestion on what to do with them I would appreciate it as thats about where it stands right now on the outside.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1418.jpg?t=1333283121

So with the board mounted I started doing some soldering last night.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1425.jpg?t=1333282720

This is where I quit, it was late and my mind wasn't working so good. I was going to put in the output jacks and was looking at my impedance seletor switch and thing about what others said in my "Tell me how to" thread and figured I better stop cause I don't want to have to redo something as I remember something about a Y to my jacks but didn't want to figure it out that late.
Plus I was thinking, Hmmm. shorting jacks or no shorting jacks? and then looking at my KT66 socket and seeing this 5w470 resistor from pin 1 to 4 and digging out what I had is a cement type wondering if this will work or should I try to find something better. This seems a little bulky to be on this socket thinking if I use it sould I silicone it to the chassis???
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1428.jpg?t=1333282413

Also I was looking at the 100 ohm 2 watter off pin 8 and it looks like it goes to a terminal strip but mine is over near my PT. Is it ok to put it over there and run a wire to pin 8.
Ah, time for bed and time to post this thread and get some advise from the experts on the forum.
I'll post more as I go but any and all suggestions appreciated thanks!

hackworth1
April 1st, 2012, 12:26 PM
Next time you need an odd resistor or so give me a call or email. I have a bunch of IRC, 2 and three watt 2.2M and 3M's and a lot of others also. I'd be glad to help you out right quick.

Impedence selector is shown very clearly on the Tramp amp thread on this site. A fellow in Australia is currently building a nice one with good pictures.

Center of switch goes to hot tip on jack. Tabs on perimeter of switch connect the various impedence leads from your OT.

Bolting the tubes sockets directly to the chassis is pretty standard.

celeste
April 1st, 2012, 02:46 PM
Careful with your silicone. It is a good/great idea, but common RTV silicone is acidic system, meaning it off gases Acetic acid, smells like vinegar. It is corrosive, so if it is what you used, then make sure you get a good cure before closing it up, so the fumes don't rot out your work.

andyfromdenver
April 1st, 2012, 04:33 PM
Re: your OT excess wires outside chassis. One way would be to keep generous length, cut and heat shrink ends (or electrical tape) braid them super tight and then make a little ball of that. Then you can run an excess wire bit through the loop and tie it tight. That's what I did, and there happened to be a screw from my standoff nearby...

P.S. I love your large tube accommodation technique or LTAT for short :)

birddog01
April 8th, 2012, 07:17 AM
Thanks for those suggestions and tips, they worked out pretty well.
Had a little time on it a hour here and an hour or so there this week. If someone sees something incorrect or out of place let me know. If it wasn't for the ugly build thread I would have kept this to myself.:oops:
Some from the socket/output side
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1438.jpg?t=1333879510

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1437.jpg?t=1333879472

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1436.jpg

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1443.jpg?t=1333879705

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1440.jpg?t=1333879729

Some from the control/input side
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1450.jpg?t=1333880626

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1449.jpg?t=1333880598

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1446.jpg?t=1333880474

The first capacitor to gound terminal
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1451.jpg?t=1333880675

That puts me to my last few items, fuse holder, pilot lamp, power switch, power cord and lastly my shieded cable on my input jack.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1452.jpg?t=1333880701

Now not wanting to back myself into a corner, my thought process tells me to start with the power cord but maybe someone can shed some light on this as this is where I left off last night.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1453.jpg?t=1333880728

So not so clear to me are in the layout in the first part of the thread shows brown, blue & black wires out of the PT for the power cord.
The power cord has black, white & green as most all A/C wiring as I'm used to working with household circuts/wiring.
Also most everything I've read says to crimp and eyelet on the green and bolt down to the nearest PT stud. Is it not ok for me to solder this directly to my gound terminal nearby?

My only other question is on my shielded cable is which place does the stranded end go and which end the sheilded/center go?

Any thoughts, advise, criticisim or praise will be well taken, thanks

celeste
April 8th, 2012, 08:14 AM
As the OP from the ugly build thread, I would like to inform you that this amp would be out of place there. That is a really tight build, and your work looks great.

I can't see your shielded cable well enough to tell, but it looks like coax, one centre conductor and the shield. If that is the case, the centre gets connected to the jack tip and to pin 2. The shield connects to the ground connection on the jack.

You want your safety ground connected securely to the chassis. The fewer connections between safety ground and the chassis, the fewer failures can make the amp unsafe.

birddog01
June 16th, 2012, 07:04 AM
Didn't have much time to work on my amp for a while with life, family, spring and mowing 2+ acres twice a week and now going into summer mode I only have mow once a week or so I'm squeezin some time to finish this.

Well I posted some pic's a month or so on the Weber forum and someone pointed out I had a capacitor going the wrong way. Figures it was in the upper corner under the input jacks, ground bus and all and I was challanged and discouraged till I got the time to straighten this out.

I also got my shielded input cable sorted out and done while working in this corner. I also got down to the power cord installation and questioned Weber's wiring on this and got this suggestion and followed it.
This is what they wrote
(4) power cord, they have 3 prongs, round (ground) connected to the green wire, rectangular larger one (common white or blue wire) smaller rectangular (hot black or brown), i don't like the way weber connect those wires. I connect the hot wire from the power cord (black or brown wire) to the AC switch then connect to the tip fuse holder, i connect the blue wire (125v tap of the power transformer) to the side connector of the fuse holder. That way you have less chance to touch the line voltage (120v) if you replace the fuse with the power cord connected to the wall.

Now the only thing here is he didn't tell me what to do with the white wire on the power cord and what to connect that to. After slightly trimming back the wires I'm not going to use from the PT it looks like that is going to leave me the "white power cord wire to the black PT wire to connect together"
I'd kinda like to double check everything and proceed to get some voltage readings and get this going.
If someone can verify this I'd appreciate it before I fry something that would really be great. Here's a few more photos, the way I figure it the more eyes on a guys first build the better.:wink:

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1602.jpg?t=1339841485

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1606.jpg?t=1339841384

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1613.jpg?t=1339841849

Sorry some of the photos aren't as clear as I'd like em to be but..
So its the Black power cord wire to one side of the switch, then another wire from the other side of the switch to the tip of the fuse holder.
Then connect the Blue PT wire to the side terminal on the fuse holder.
Green wire (ground) on the power cord is already connected to ground.

Oh while thinking about how I was going swap that cap in the corner around I did finish the head cab and did get the lumber cut for the speaker cab.
A couple shots of that.

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1498.jpg?t=1335835660

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1499.jpg?t=1335835659