birddog01
April 1st, 2012, 11:13 AM
This is my first attempt at amp building. I have been watching this forum for over a year and reading as much as I could for as long. I have also a 5E3 kit I got from Hackworth/Dave from last summer part of the way completed. Just was waiting for the winter that never was to work on them.
The 5f2 Chassis kit I got from Weber and after printing out the component list I got some other stuff from them and sourced the rest. Now I see how when you source this stuff you can't just build ONE amp as resistors come in packs of 5.:wink:
Transformers and Choke came from Weber as well, I probably should have just bought their kit.
Starting with the Layout once I had enough components.
https://taweber.powweb.com/store/5f2h_layout.jpg
I started dry mounting caps and resistors and figuring out where the OT and Choke were going to go.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1200.jpg?t=1320581693
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1202.jpg?t=1333283382
I was only able to find one photo on the internet on one of these.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1249.jpg?t=1322973532
These Weber Stainless Chassis are nice but much harder to drill than mild steel or aluminum. I had things in and out of the chassis several times checking for mounting applications and fit. When I drill my Choke and OT holes these things are heavy and its a lot of iron, I drilled my holes for #10 screws. A # 7 drill bit and 10-32 to be exact and since they are under the board to hold them I tapped the chassis. The bolts are tightened in place and stay and make for much less fiddling.
Some of the Caps I put a dab of silicone on the board to kinda hold them.
First test fit before drilling for the board.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1257.jpg?t=1326076768
I used a rotary shaft drive dremel tool to open up the power tub
e and rectifier socket holes. I have seen some threads where some people use a plastic spacer under there screws on the sockets but just figured most of those are for the ceramic sockets. Mounting flush to the chassis is ok isn't it?
And please if any expierienced builders have suggestions that cansave me some grief PLEASE let me know.
With most of the board wired and soldered.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1386.jpg?t=1331435540
Prewiring some the input jacks and volume and tone controls. I really didn't want to use the brass plate and use a ground buss so I used the brass plate to hold it.
One thing that caused a delay was this amp from Weber uses a 2M A pot and for the life of me couldn't find one anywhere else so I had to place another minor order to them just for it, then when I got it it was longer shaft so I had to do the same thing again with the volume pot to match so one knob wasn't higher than the other.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1384.jpg?t=1331435513
When mounting the board I used these 1/4" nylon spacers/standoffs form the Tube Depot, put a dab of silicone on them as well during a test fit and let dry overnight. These holes in the chassis and drilled and tapped as well for 8/32 and I can just screw them in and put nuts on the top later no fumbling.
Sorry not a real clear shot but you get the idea.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1372.jpg?t=1331434818
This is going to be a head and not a combo, so once some of the stuff was taken out of the chassis again I figured better test fit some of that as I had taken measurements and worked on the head cab in between some of this other stuff.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1361.jpg?t=1332120477
Hmmmm.... measure several times and cut once. I noticed someting I didn't account for after thinking about this. No way I was going to have to take the amp out to put the humungous KT66 power tube in and I ain't remaking this head cab. Not enough clearance to get the tube in and out so find a large hole saw.:wink:
And with large rubber feet on the bottom I don't think it will be a problem.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1387.jpg?t=1331435313
Now we have access, once gone over with a roundover bit should work even though an afterthought.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1388.jpg?t=1332120369
Alright now back to the amp, when I get hung up I work on the cab. Thats stuff I'm used to.
Time to start final mounting. I wanted an extension speaker jack and a switch for 4 & 8 ohms so I had to drill the chassis for the jack and decided on a mini toggle for the switch after some questioning here on the forum.
The sockets and retianers mounted and my mini switch, as you can see my Choke and OT screws in place.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1403.jpg?t=1333283265
Here's the trannies and choke mounted, even though I'm not using the 2 and 16 ohm wires if someone has a suggestion on what to do with them I would appreciate it as thats about where it stands right now on the outside.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1418.jpg?t=1333283121
So with the board mounted I started doing some soldering last night.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1425.jpg?t=1333282720
This is where I quit, it was late and my mind wasn't working so good. I was going to put in the output jacks and was looking at my impedance seletor switch and thing about what others said in my "Tell me how to" thread and figured I better stop cause I don't want to have to redo something as I remember something about a Y to my jacks but didn't want to figure it out that late.
Plus I was thinking, Hmmm. shorting jacks or no shorting jacks? and then looking at my KT66 socket and seeing this 5w470 resistor from pin 1 to 4 and digging out what I had is a cement type wondering if this will work or should I try to find something better. This seems a little bulky to be on this socket thinking if I use it sould I silicone it to the chassis???
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1428.jpg?t=1333282413
Also I was looking at the 100 ohm 2 watter off pin 8 and it looks like it goes to a terminal strip but mine is over near my PT. Is it ok to put it over there and run a wire to pin 8.
Ah, time for bed and time to post this thread and get some advise from the experts on the forum.
I'll post more as I go but any and all suggestions appreciated thanks!
The 5f2 Chassis kit I got from Weber and after printing out the component list I got some other stuff from them and sourced the rest. Now I see how when you source this stuff you can't just build ONE amp as resistors come in packs of 5.:wink:
Transformers and Choke came from Weber as well, I probably should have just bought their kit.
Starting with the Layout once I had enough components.
https://taweber.powweb.com/store/5f2h_layout.jpg
I started dry mounting caps and resistors and figuring out where the OT and Choke were going to go.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1200.jpg?t=1320581693
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1202.jpg?t=1333283382
I was only able to find one photo on the internet on one of these.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1249.jpg?t=1322973532
These Weber Stainless Chassis are nice but much harder to drill than mild steel or aluminum. I had things in and out of the chassis several times checking for mounting applications and fit. When I drill my Choke and OT holes these things are heavy and its a lot of iron, I drilled my holes for #10 screws. A # 7 drill bit and 10-32 to be exact and since they are under the board to hold them I tapped the chassis. The bolts are tightened in place and stay and make for much less fiddling.
Some of the Caps I put a dab of silicone on the board to kinda hold them.
First test fit before drilling for the board.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1257.jpg?t=1326076768
I used a rotary shaft drive dremel tool to open up the power tub
e and rectifier socket holes. I have seen some threads where some people use a plastic spacer under there screws on the sockets but just figured most of those are for the ceramic sockets. Mounting flush to the chassis is ok isn't it?
And please if any expierienced builders have suggestions that cansave me some grief PLEASE let me know.
With most of the board wired and soldered.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1386.jpg?t=1331435540
Prewiring some the input jacks and volume and tone controls. I really didn't want to use the brass plate and use a ground buss so I used the brass plate to hold it.
One thing that caused a delay was this amp from Weber uses a 2M A pot and for the life of me couldn't find one anywhere else so I had to place another minor order to them just for it, then when I got it it was longer shaft so I had to do the same thing again with the volume pot to match so one knob wasn't higher than the other.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1384.jpg?t=1331435513
When mounting the board I used these 1/4" nylon spacers/standoffs form the Tube Depot, put a dab of silicone on them as well during a test fit and let dry overnight. These holes in the chassis and drilled and tapped as well for 8/32 and I can just screw them in and put nuts on the top later no fumbling.
Sorry not a real clear shot but you get the idea.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1372.jpg?t=1331434818
This is going to be a head and not a combo, so once some of the stuff was taken out of the chassis again I figured better test fit some of that as I had taken measurements and worked on the head cab in between some of this other stuff.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1361.jpg?t=1332120477
Hmmmm.... measure several times and cut once. I noticed someting I didn't account for after thinking about this. No way I was going to have to take the amp out to put the humungous KT66 power tube in and I ain't remaking this head cab. Not enough clearance to get the tube in and out so find a large hole saw.:wink:
And with large rubber feet on the bottom I don't think it will be a problem.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1387.jpg?t=1331435313
Now we have access, once gone over with a roundover bit should work even though an afterthought.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1388.jpg?t=1332120369
Alright now back to the amp, when I get hung up I work on the cab. Thats stuff I'm used to.
Time to start final mounting. I wanted an extension speaker jack and a switch for 4 & 8 ohms so I had to drill the chassis for the jack and decided on a mini toggle for the switch after some questioning here on the forum.
The sockets and retianers mounted and my mini switch, as you can see my Choke and OT screws in place.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1403.jpg?t=1333283265
Here's the trannies and choke mounted, even though I'm not using the 2 and 16 ohm wires if someone has a suggestion on what to do with them I would appreciate it as thats about where it stands right now on the outside.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1418.jpg?t=1333283121
So with the board mounted I started doing some soldering last night.
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1425.jpg?t=1333282720
This is where I quit, it was late and my mind wasn't working so good. I was going to put in the output jacks and was looking at my impedance seletor switch and thing about what others said in my "Tell me how to" thread and figured I better stop cause I don't want to have to redo something as I remember something about a Y to my jacks but didn't want to figure it out that late.
Plus I was thinking, Hmmm. shorting jacks or no shorting jacks? and then looking at my KT66 socket and seeing this 5w470 resistor from pin 1 to 4 and digging out what I had is a cement type wondering if this will work or should I try to find something better. This seems a little bulky to be on this socket thinking if I use it sould I silicone it to the chassis???
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz68/waltsblues/amps/Building%20a%2052FH%20Harp%20Amp/IMG_1428.jpg?t=1333282413
Also I was looking at the 100 ohm 2 watter off pin 8 and it looks like it goes to a terminal strip but mine is over near my PT. Is it ok to put it over there and run a wire to pin 8.
Ah, time for bed and time to post this thread and get some advise from the experts on the forum.
I'll post more as I go but any and all suggestions appreciated thanks!
![$vboptions[bbtitle]](../../gifs/tdpr-headTRANS.gif)