tru-oil application/finish question

I intend to apply tru-oil to an unfinished maple neck with a rosewood finger board. Is it important to keep the tru-oil away from the rose wood by masking the entire finger board with tape including the sides before treating. Is there a tutorial on finishing a guitar neck in tru-oil available on this website somewhere.

Applying Tru Oil is very easy.

I personally mask off the rosewood, because I prefer it to have only a light non drying oil that absorbs into it. Tru Oil would dry on the top of the rosewood and prevent oil from absorbing into it. You are correct in masking off the rosewood. Afterwards, simply apply Tru Oil in very thin coats at first. In between coats, I will lightly scuff with artificial steel wool, and apply the next coat. The final coat I apply is the thickest, and I let that dry thoroughly before final wet sanding and polishing...unless I want a satin look.

I've only stripped one maple guitar, but (awaits horrified reaction) I finished it with floor oil - yes, the stuff you use on hardwood floors. It finishes more like a varnish; so what I did was leave it on for 10 mins, then wipe off, then repeat a couple of times.

Don't use it on pine, though - it just soaks in and looks dark and cheap. Did it on a Squier.

Just finished and maple/ebony neck. Just taped off the top of the fretboard, not the sides of the fretboard. As long as you keep it thin it should be fine. Thought there might be some problems with tru-oil and ebony but everything was just fine.

Applying Tru Oil is very easy.

I personally mask off the rosewood, because I prefer it to have only a light non drying oil that absorbs into it. Tru Oil would dry on the top of the rosewood and prevent oil from absorbing into it. You are correct in masking off the rosewood. Afterwards, simply apply Tru Oil in very thin coats at first. In between coats, I will lightly scuff with artificial steel wool, and apply the next coat. The final coat I apply is the thickest, and I let that dry thoroughly before final wet sanding and polishing...unless I want a satin look.

Why artifical steel wool, can ordinary steel wool react in a bad way? the reason i ask is that I have some very fine steel wool which I had intended to use.

Why artifical steel wool, can ordinary steel wool react in a bad way? the reason i ask is that I have some very fine steel wool which I had intended to use.

It can if you aren't careful. It likes to get into pickups and pots, and it can leave rust specs in the finish. Not likely, but possible. Some people will wrap a magnet inside a wad of steel wool to keep the steel wool from flaking off. I just prefer the synthetic stuff. They should sell it at a hardware type store over there. Here's a link to the stuff I'm referring to. It's sold under many brands I'm sure.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2080757/29936/4-38-X-5-12-Synthetic-Steel-Wool-Pad-0000.aspx

It can if you aren't careful. It likes to get into pickups and pots, and it can leave rust specs in the finish. Not likely, but possible. Some people will wrap a magnet inside a wad of steel wool to keep the steel wool from flaking off. I just prefer the synthetic stuff. They should sell it at a hardware type store over there. Here's a link to the stuff I'm referring to. It's sold under many brands I'm sure.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2080757/29936/4-38-X-5-12-Synthetic-Steel-Wool-Pad-0000.aspx

thats ok -the neck is new and not attached to the body