Faulty SD-1 or just not for me?

About a year or so ago I bagged myself a free Boss SD-1 in a promotion Roland did here in the UK.

I tried it out but didn't really bond with it so it hasn't seen a lot of use.

Now some time has passed and my tastes have changed and subsequently, so has my rig.

I'm currently playing a classic 60s tele through a EHX Deluxe Memory Man and into my Deluxe Reverb and it sounds great.

I've been cranking the DR to get as much grit as I can but I want a second gain stage and to be able to mic the amp up live to get more headroom and balanced sound with the option of stomping on something for minimal grit (I play mainly clean, ambient/soul/RnB).

Anyway I digress..

So I dug the old SD-1 out and tried it both at home and in a band setting and it sounds like pants. Even worse than I remember in fact!

It's flabby, noisy, muffled (REALLY muffled.. turns my DR into one of those little marshall battery amps) and completely 'flat'.

I see guys who I revere such as 11 gauge singing their praises and after all, it's just a tube screamer variant with asymmetrical clipping.. right?

Well the good old fashioned tube screamer has been on the board of some of my favourite players; Jim Weider, Bill Kirchen, Adrian Utley, Bill Frisell and countless others!!

Now I wouldn't consider myself a "noob" when it comes to gear but overdrive pedals are something of an enigma to me.

So what is it? Bad pedal or do my ears deceive me?

I can post high-quality sound clips if required.

:confused:

(P.S. it has nothing to do with the bright cap on the vibrato channel of my Deluxe.. It sounds as dull through all inputs/all volumes.)

It's not you, it's the pedal. The only reason the SD-1 is popular around here is that it's relatively cheap and folks love to mod it to sound somewhat like a tube screamer. Sonically and unmodded, I think it's one of Boss's absolute worst pedals. And, if you're going to mod it, why not just go all the way and get yourself a decent TS.

Well, I can't guarantee the same result but by removing one component from the sd1, you can tranform it from a door stop to a very respectable od!

Desolder or cut C6 off of the circuit board and it will be like giving that pedal x-lax!! No more constipated yuk!!

I did this to mine and I use it constantly now and my main squeeze is a king of tone!

Give it a try, as I see it, you have nothing to lose and everything to gain!!

I can't answer your question but I can tell you that I like my sd-1 and use it a lot. I do not use much in the way of distortion but I have 4 over drives on my board. The sd-1 is the pedal I use most. I set the gain very low and kick back the tone just a hair. I like using it for rock shuffle rythms. It fattens up the sound just enough to be rock n roll.

I just bought a Rivera era Twin. It doesn't seem to sound quite as good on that amp as it did on my Deville and the amps crunch channel is pretty nice so I may find myself using it less.

They suck stock. It took new clipping diodes, a restructured tone control and a bunch of other tweaks to get mine useable. If you can use a soldering iron it's a good way to get started modding.

I like mine. It's very snarly. :razz:

I think you have either a dud pedal or just a normal SD-1

I have the same amp and play some of the same styles and I think a TS-808 is pretty much exactly what I need. If this is supposed to sound like a TS it's definitely falling short.

Fuzz is another way to go, for the 60's feel and ability to clean it up with the volume knob.

The youtube demos for SD-1 that I've seen have been very underwhelming IMO.

*Edit: I use a DRRI

Right.. So the muffled, transistor radio sound isn't what the infamous "mid-hump" of a tube screamer sounds like?

Because there lies my next question.. I want a decent sounding overdrive but living in the north of England (Gawd 'elp me! :oops:) I'm limited as to what gear I can access without buying online.

So here's what I've looked at so far including my concerns:

Ibanez TS9 (if it's good enough for Bill Kirchen.. but does the magic lie in the JRC chip that the current models don't exhibit or is that just internet hype?)
Ibanez TS808
Maxon OD9 (Is it any better than the TS9? I know that it's true bypass but I'm not sure I buy into the true bypass thing.. A good buffer can do wonders)
Maxon OD808

So it's the battle of the screamers.. I'm not asking for pedal suggestions and I realise there is no way of telling whether any of these pedals will work for me without trying them with my gear but what I'm asking is are there any inherent flaws to the standard TS9 or are things like the JRC OPamp and true bypass important factors in getting the classic TS sound/functionality?

I have an SD-1 modded by 11 Gauge ( to give it that Zendrive flavour), it now sits alongside my ZD on my pedalboard, providing the rhythm OD where the amp won't give it up.

In your situation I'd PM 11 Gauge for some simple critical mod ideas, cap here, chip there....

Good Luck

One of the boxiest sounding out there. Off it or maybe consider an Alum mod to make it less focused use wise.

They sell used mint on this side of the pond for 30.00 US, and 20-25.00 US chipped up. How that applies to the other side of the pond i dunno...

I have an SD-1 modded by 11 Gauge ( to give it that Zendrive flavour), it now sits alongside my ZD on my pedalboard, providing the rhythm OD where the amp won't give it up.

In your situation I'd PM 11 Gauge for some simple critical mod ideas, cap here, chip there....

Good Luck

I think I'm just going to off it, I've got a big box of pedals I need to unload at some point and I'll use the money to buy one of the above (I'm leaning towards the Maxons).

They say you can't polish a.. well you know what they say. :twisted:

They say you can't polish a.. well you know what they say. :twisted:


They would be wrong, you can buy polished petrified dinosaur dung jewelry.. not kidding either. ;)

Gives new meaning to the term semi precious stone, don't it?

They would be wrong, you can buy polished petrified dinosaur dung jewelry.. not kidding either. ;)

Gives new meaning to the term semi precious stone, don't it?

:lol::lol:

Made from the dung of petrified dinosaurs? :wink:

I'd be petrified too in that situation..

:lol::lol:

Made from the dung of petrified dinosaurs? :wink:

I'd be petrified too in that situation..

That is possible too

Sounds like you knew what you wanted before you asked.

This can be polished...very easily.

However, I am always keen on acquiring something new!! Consider the new 30th anniversary TS. It has the right stuff in the right places!! Maxon is superb too though, enjoy!!!

I have several well thought of OD pedals and like my un-modded SD-1 best, I think because it has less volume than the others. I like slight breakup and achieve that equilibrium best with the SD-1. I set the volume up between 50 and 75% and the gain just sort of "on." That said, I think different guitars and amps like different pedals.

Sorry to drag this one up kicking and screaming from the fiery depths of the TDPRI but I have one final question.

I now have the opportunity to get a really good deal on a (used but like new) Maxon OD9 but there is a little voice at the back of my mind shouting: "Buy the 30th Anniversary TS9... It's shiny!!" :shock:

So the questions are these:

- What difference in sound (if any) would there be since both have the JRC chip.

- I'd be running it first in my chain so would the True Bypass of the Maxon be a problem? I hear it's good to start your chain with a buffered bypass pedal, is this correct?

- Which would you go for?

Other than that my concerns are purely aesthetic, I'm like a magpie; attracted to shiny things. :oops:

Sorry again for all the questions. As I said earlier, overdrive pedals are a phenomenon that has eluded me for years.

- I'd be running it first in my chain so would the True Bypass of the Maxon be a problem? I hear it's good to start your chain with a buffered bypass pedal, is this correct?



Nah. My current PB runs Pitchblack (TB), Keeley'd GCB95 Wah (TB), Zendrive (TB), modded SD-1 (buffered).

Desolder or cut C6 off of the circuit board...

I would absolutely do this. It doesn't cost a thing, it gets the SD-1 almost on parity with a TS IMO, and like the bright cap in a DR, almost no one would ever reconnect C6.

The TS-type circuit first chops off all the bass. The tone circuit then chops off much of the treble. The "re-boost" portion of the tone control is necessary for restoring what treble may be left.

In the case of C6 in the SD-1, it is always always killing off more treble. So for someone who wants a "smooth" OD sound, it is fine (i.e. almost no one). Otherwise, it is just taking away all of the detail.

As a side benefit, more treble will give the impression of typically bass with a little more punch.

So for some folks, just snipping C6 can be a dramatic change for the better. It is just a plain Jane .01uF cap (10nF for those of you in the UK and elsewhere) that is readily available everywhere, so don't hesitate to just snip it. I would not even bother to unsolder it. There is really no need for anything to ever be put in that slot again...

Unless you are into splitting hairs, the difference between a SD-1 with C6 removed and any old TS9 is really negligible IMO, especially if you use either pedal live.

Snip C6!

Snippety Snip, Sootykins:

http://www2.dothaneagle.com/mgmedia/image/294/0/330827/free-spay/

Testify!!!

I did not know what it did, but since removing that cap, all my other ods are seeing a LOT less use!!

Testify!!!

I did not know what it did, but since removing that cap, all my other ods are seeing a LOT less use!!

It's basically the pedal user's equivalent of snipping the bright cap in a Deluxe Reverb.

And it is amazing how a single component can wreck an otherwise good sounding amp or pedal.

I have a C6-removed SD-1 that I dig for my fly board. Great OD and very TSish.

Now I remember why I hate overdrives.. :roll:

11 Gauge, I have nothing but respect for you but I don't know how comfortable I am with modding a pedal I can get £20 for on the bay (which would be £20 less I'd be paying for the already insane deal I can get on this OD9).

Decisions, decisions.


http://moviecitynews.com/archived/mcnblogs/mcindie/archives/images/hard_place_485960.jpg

I don't know how comfortable I am with modding a pedal...

Don't consider it a mod. Just call it something like removing a wart or hangnail.

Speaking of hangnail, you could probably use nail clippers to remove C6!

It is very close to the only 8 pin chip (the 4558 op amp) - VERY clearly labeled (to the left of the chip).

You could actually probably just twist the cap back and forth until the leads broke.

You don't even really need to totally remove it - you could just disconnect one of the two leads, and just keep it dangling by the other one.

Just consider it slight electronic pruning - easy stuff.

Pic attached with the C6 location.

Just took out my SD-1 which I had put away to sell or give away at some point and snipped C6.
Three minute operation.
YES, it's a keeper now!

I would absolutely do this. It doesn't cost a thing, it gets the SD-1 almost on parity with a TS IMO, and like the bright cap in a DR, almost no one would ever reconnect C6.

The TS-type circuit first chops off all the bass. The tone circuit then chops off much of the treble. The "re-boost" portion of the tone control is necessary for restoring what treble may be left.

In the case of C6 in the SD-1, it is always always killing off more treble. So for someone who wants a "smooth" OD sound, it is fine (i.e. almost no one). Otherwise, it is just taking away all of the detail.

As a side benefit, more treble will give the impression of typically bass with a little more punch.

So for some folks, just snipping C6 can be a dramatic change for the better. It is just a plain Jane .01uF cap (10nF for those of you in the UK and elsewhere) that is readily available everywhere, so don't hesitate to just snip it. I would not even bother to unsolder it. There is really no need for anything to ever be put in that slot again...

Unless you are into splitting hairs, the difference between a SD-1 with C6 removed and any old TS9 is really negligible IMO, especially if you use either pedal live.

Snip C6!

I just did and what an improvement. Its back on my board now. Thanks.

So 11 gauge, is there a similar silver bullet for the ds1? The number of mods out there for the ds1 is mind numbing. I would love something simple like the c6 mod for the ds1. I am handy with a soldering iron. I don't want to change the general character of the pedal, just make usable! :)

Okay, so I'm easy... I just clipped my C6 (fingernail clippers worked fine) and am I wrong in saying it seems more 'open'... and the gain knob is more useful all the way up? I liked it before, like it even better now.

I am wishing I had another here to A/B with now.

Okay, so I'm easy... I just clipped my C6 (fingernail clippers worked fine) and am I wrong in saying it seems more 'open'... and the gain knob is more useful all the way up? I liked it before, like it even better now.

I am wishing I had another here to A/B with now.

That is exactly what I heard as well. It is tempting to rig a temporary switch and hear the difference. However, I am very happy with it now so I'll call it good!

I clipped the C6 a while back. I think its great now.

Sell the boss and buy a TS-9

wBzUAS4GJu4&feature

So 11 gauge, is there a similar silver bullet for the ds1? The number of mods out there for the ds1 is mind numbing. I would love something simple like the c6 mod for the ds1. I am handy with a soldering iron. I don't want to change the general character of the pedal, just make usable! :)

If you don't want to change the character of the pedal, yes. But this means that it will still have the scooped mids.

There are actually "3 levels of minimal invasiveness" to "improve" the sound versus stock:

1. R9 - change to 100 ohm resistor. This is enough for about 60% of DS-1 owners who like the stock scooped mids. It reduces some of the buzz that can't be dialed out. R9 is 22 ohms stock, which means that the first gain stage is always distorting (and it doesn't produce a quality that many folks like).

2. R17 - change to between 15K up to about 22K resistor. This WILL give more thick midrange, and is desired by "the other 40%." Higher values give more mids. Stock value is 6.8K, so 15K lets frequencies as low 500Hz pass on thru the tone control (stock only lets frequencies as low as 1060Hz pass on). 22K lets frequencies as low as about 330Hz pass thru - basically the same as most Marshall amplifiers.

3. Put diodes in SERIES with the stock D4 and D5 only if you want to make it a little more open/smooth sounding, or get some volume back after changing R9 to 100 ohms. 1N34A or BAT41 will give the biggest "good" amount of change. BAT42 will give the most subtle (IMO BEST) amount of change, since you want basically the stock features.

My suggestion is to start with only changing R9 to 100 ohms. It may be all you need. R17 and D4/D5 changes are only necessary to add mids/volume/some smoothness.

If you don't want to change the character of the pedal, yes. But this means that it will still have the scooped mids.

There are actually "3 levels of minimal invasiveness" to "improve" the sound versus stock:

1. R9 - change to 100 ohm resistor. This is enough for about 60% of DS-1 owners who like the stock scooped mids. It reduces some of the buzz that can't be dialed out. R9 is 22 ohms stock, which means that the first gain stage is always distorting (and it doesn't produce a quality that many folks like).

2. R17 - change to between 15K up to about 22K resistor. This WILL give more thick midrange, and is desired by "the other 40%." Higher values give more mids. Stock value is 6.8K, so 15K lets frequencies as low 500Hz pass on thru the tone control (stock only lets frequencies as low as 1060Hz pass on). 22K lets frequencies as low as about 330Hz pass thru - basically the same as most Marshall amplifiers.

3. Put diodes in SERIES with the stock D4 and D5 only if you want to make it a little more open/smooth sounding, or get some volume back after changing R9 to 100 ohms. 1N34A or BAT41 will give the biggest "good" amount of change. BAT42 will give the most subtle (IMO BEST) amount of change, since you want basically the stock features.

My suggestion is to start with only changing R9 to 100 ohms. It may be all you need. R17 and D4/D5 changes are only necessary to add mids/volume/some smoothness.

Probably the most informative few paragraphs I have read in a long time. I know what I am doing this weekend!! Thank you!!!!

If you don't want to change the character of the pedal, yes. But this means that it will still have the scooped mids.

There are actually "3 levels of minimal invasiveness" to "improve" the sound versus stock:

1. R9 - change to 100 ohm resistor. This is enough for about 60% of DS-1 owners who like the stock scooped mids. It reduces some of the buzz that can't be dialed out. R9 is 22 ohms stock, which means that the first gain stage is always distorting (and it doesn't produce a quality that many folks like).

2. R17 - change to between 15K up to about 22K resistor. This WILL give more thick midrange, and is desired by "the other 40%." Higher values give more mids. Stock value is 6.8K, so 15K lets frequencies as low 500Hz pass on thru the tone control (stock only lets frequencies as low as 1060Hz pass on). 22K lets frequencies as low as about 330Hz pass thru - basically the same as most Marshall amplifiers.

3. Put diodes in SERIES with the stock D4 and D5 only if you want to make it a little more open/smooth sounding, or get some volume back after changing R9 to 100 ohms. 1N34A or BAT41 will give the biggest "good" amount of change. BAT42 will give the most subtle (IMO BEST) amount of change, since you want basically the stock features.

My suggestion is to start with only changing R9 to 100 ohms. It may be all you need. R17 and D4/D5 changes are only necessary to add mids/volume/some smoothness.

Amazing.

I wish I could be as useful to you as you are to me.
Seriously, Thank you man.

Amazing.

I wish I could be as useful to you as you are to me.
Seriously, Thank you man.

Ditto that. The C6 SD-1 mod is probably the best single mod I've ever done to any piece of gear.

Right.. So the muffled, transistor radio sound isn't what the infamous "mid-hump" of a tube screamer sounds like?

Because there lies my next question.. I want a decent sounding overdrive but living in the north of England (Gawd 'elp me! :oops:) I'm limited as to what gear I can access without buying online.

So here's what I've looked at so far including my concerns:

Ibanez TS9 (if it's good enough for Bill Kirchen.. but does the magic lie in the JRC chip that the current models don't exhibit or is that just internet hype?)
Ibanez TS808
Maxon OD9 (Is it any better than the TS9? I know that it's true bypass but I'm not sure I buy into the true bypass thing.. A good buffer can do wonders)
Maxon OD808

So it's the battle of the screamers.. I'm not asking for pedal suggestions and I realise there is no way of telling whether any of these pedals will work for me without trying them with my gear but what I'm asking is are there any inherent flaws to the standard TS9 or are things like the JRC OPamp and true bypass important factors in getting the classic TS sound/functionality?

Maxon OD9 = Original TS808 circuit.
Maxon OD808 = Original TS9 circuit. Very harsh sound.

I have an SD1 that I'd use if I didn't have a TS9 reissue on the board. Got my old mate an SD1 for his bday and he loves it.
My TS9 reissue has the JRC chip in it and a buffer, and I can't hear any issues in my sound - Could be just what you're looking for.

Update on this...

I went for the OD9, it was such a good deal that I couldn't resist.

I'm going to keep hold of the SD1 and try them out side by side.

If the Maxon isn't what I want I can easily flip it and get my money back and then I can experiment with the SD1 a little.

If the Maxon fills the TS sized hole in my life then great!

The SD1 (which lets not forget was a freebie) gets the boot and the Maxon will have been an even better deal.

No harm, no foul! :grin:






Oh and if it turns out (as it still may) that I'm flogging a dead horse and just not a fan of the screamer sound then I will sell everything and take up playing the saxophone... or the bagpipes... or any damn thing that doesn't need pedals!

The C6 SD-1 mod is probably the best single mod I've ever done to any piece of gear.

Amen to that again.
5 mins and an easy snip with a nail snipper basically gets you a TS - but with Asymmetrical Clipping. Double Bonus ;)
Was my fave OD for ages after that.

While on the subject of easy mods (non soldering even :cool: )

Another easy and popular Mod is simply removing the LED's from the gain stage of a Vox Pathfinder 15R
Wowza!

And there is another 'quick snip' mod, for those with a recent Marshall Guvnor GV-2 (not the V.1 Black Box version!) that really opens up the pedal (if you find it too dark, as most folks do) - i.e. remove C22 on the GV-2 - in the same easy snip manner as the SD-1 'C6 Mod'.
Mucho improvement. Though the rather sizzly note decay trails remain, unfortunately.

Amen to that again.
5 mins and an easy snip with a nail snipper basically gets you a TS - but with Asymmetrical Clipping. Double Bonus ;)
Was my fave OD for ages after that.

While on the subject of easy mods (non soldering even :cool: )

Another easy and popular Mod is simply removing the LED's from the gain stage of a Vox Pathfinder 15R
Wowza!

And there is another 'quick snip' mod, for those with a recent Marshall Guvnor GV-2 (not the V.1 Black Box version!) that really opens up the pedal (if you find it too dark, as most folks do) - i.e. remove C22 on the GV-2 - in the same easy snip manner as the SD-1 'C6 Mod'.
Mucho improvement. Though the rather sizzly note decay trails remain, unfortunately.

So youre saying I could mod my SD1 with no soldering?

So youre saying I could mod my SD1 with no soldering?

Yes.
See posts above - 11 Gauge's in particular.
Simply remove C6 for big improvement (if you want to of course).

So youre saying I could mod my SD1 with no soldering?

Yes, you can just clip it, but desoldering is a good skill to learn. Might as well try it on the sd1

Yeah. I desoldered mine in case I wanted to put it back. But knowing what I know now, Id just clip.

I just clipped the C6 off of my SD1 and it sounds alot better. Thanks for the help.