Gitlvr's 2012 Challenge Build Thread -- COMPLETED

I'm in! Looking forward to this!

Looking forward to this!

So am I! I'm excited to see what you do. Good luck, man!

Heads up - I think your title is supposed to have the year in it. Good luck.

Thanks, Roger! Glad to see you in as well. Good luck!
Muzikp, thanks. Title corrected.

Good to see ya' back :grin:

Dave

thanks, Dave. You as well!

Up, up and awaaay! have a great challenge Mike! May the FORK be with you :mrgreen:

Thanks, oigun! But I actually need to back away from the FORK(and the table).

Sweet! Looking forward to what you come up with.

Is it safe to assume your entry will have a tilted back headstock... :smile:

We're gonna have us a lot of fun!

Is it safe to assume your entry will have a tilted back headstock... :smile:
Nope. This will be a more "traditional"(kinda, sorta, maybe) type build this time around.
We're gonna have us a lot of fun!
Yes we are. I've been looking forward to this for almost a year now!

Been watching some of the build threads while waiting on photos to upload. This is gonna be killer! Lot's of really good looking builds, I think.
Time for me to join the fray. Here's the requisite pic to start.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UiPneeNX13U/T2JN6lk_6II/AAAAAAAAA1I/q3QxfwcuU80/s512/100_0464.JPG
From left to right:
Black pickguard material, white ash body blank, and maple neck blank. I'm still waiting on my fretboard wood. Hoping it shows up today. Will post it with the Challenge PDF when it gets here.
Ok, so this guitar needs a pickguard. Can't hide what I'm building anymore,
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Ozudb4xMgyA/T2JOZEjyeQI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/FXGoCgrlP3M/s640/100_0465.JPG

After taping the template to the pickguard material, I break out my trusty jig saw.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8C4Pb2DftuQ/T2JPCyDmWXI/AAAAAAAAA1Y/y7-xFtHMRBo/s640/100_0466.JPG

And here it is trimmed to the template.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-21Zt-0UhYus/T2JPcmgBAxI/AAAAAAAAA1g/Ika28C04d94/s640/100_0467.JPG

Chuck a 3/8 bit into my drill...

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-tzKevO5sxbk/T2JP5aImRnI/AAAAAAAAA1o/11dG_UFVmGs/s640/100_0468.JPG

...and drill holes in each corner of the humbucker routs.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-AeeANJ8nsVg/T2JQN-UA38I/AAAAAAAAA1w/5lW1lgCoyPA/s640/100_0469.JPG

And cut that out with the jig saw.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pd4AoPj5u5c/T2JQs_cKkII/AAAAAAAAA14/sHsrmKuP_MU/s640/100_0470.JPG

And the completed guard with all holes drilled and the edges rounded over(lost the pics of that somehow).

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3f46o8iD5xc/T2JROyl3L3I/AAAAAAAAA2A/tdj8nsUNKzM/s640/100_0471.JPG

On to the body blank. Here it is with the body outline traced.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UUgWQ4n4VXg/T2JRrUVx2qI/AAAAAAAAA2I/8QoQZ_712vw/s640/100_0472.JPG

And again with the trusty jig saw.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-blFenRNwzZE/T2JSFzCdbCI/AAAAAAAAA2Q/8XwOrloTm-4/s640/100_0473.JPG

And here it is roughed out.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kojRUKLT8eI/T2JSlGCstUI/AAAAAAAAA2Y/Aqd85_LxVwk/s640/100_0474.JPG

Next step is to attach the body routing template.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wkYiKHCteNg/T2JT8HAwZ_I/AAAAAAAAA2o/Jw0LtRGZx2Q/s640/100_0476.JPG

And on to the router.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-hpf_1JwvOKE/T2JUoxRDlII/AAAAAAAAA2w/2kxMrOyJxVw/s640/100_0477.JPG

The next step would normally be to flip the body over, chuck a bottom-bearing router bit into the router, and finish routing the body to the template.
Unfortunately, the next step for me is not that one.:cry:
When removing the template, I found my first problem with this build.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_t6SQwRIMNo/T2JVC3NhmKI/AAAAAAAAA24/njIXAFkowZY/s640/100_0478.JPG

The rear screw holding my template down broke off. I tried grabbing it with pliers, vise grips, anything I could think of. No dice. It's broken too close to the top.
The only option was to chuck a plug cutter in my drill.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-noZLFktO7io/T2JVgdV0XWI/AAAAAAAAA3A/sE0nDatUOxo/s640/100_0479.JPG

Once i drilled deep enough, i was able to get the screw out. I followed that with a plug from the offcuts of the body. Probably could have used poplar dowel rod, since this area will be covered by the bridge. But I've got the ash laying on the deck at my feet. Be a shame not to use that.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tlHA4Tioe9w/T2JWAs3_X8I/AAAAAAAAA3I/hnEiC0GGvUM/s640/100_0480.JPG

Then I went ahead and flipped it over, placed the proper router bit in my router, and finished the job.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hvbYlSUsFlU/T2JWvWXX5PI/AAAAAAAAA3Q/B6OU7qi2SMg/s640/100_0481.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-om3_QnPCtdg/T2JXM25fSdI/AAAAAAAAA3Y/dkt7laPRTNY/s640/100_0482.JPG

I'll let that plug dry real good, and come back to the body at a later time.

bummer to start a build like that, but at least it's out of the way now :razz:

bummer to start a build like that, but at least it's out of the way now :razz:

Just a bump in the road. I'm sure it won't be the last. I learned a long time ago, mistakes will be made. It's only wood. There's usually a way to deal with it.

Looking good! Damn I hate screws breaking. Luckily that spot will not be seen.
I envy people who live in a place where it's possible to work outside..

The '72 Deluxe has always been my dream tele. Since the first time I saw it, it's haunted my dreams.:shock: So when last year's Challenge was done, and i started thinking about this year, I thought, "Why not?". There will be a few differences with my version of this axe. Firstly, the fretboard will not be maple. Yeah, I know, but i can't stand maple fretboards(yeah, I know). Everyone talks about them being so fast to play on, but to me, the lacquer grabs and slows me down. I'd guess it's like the way some players complain that the back of the neck gets sticky and slows them down. I wouldn't turn down a good guitar because of a maple board, but if I'm gonna build what would essentially be my dream tele, it won't have a maple board.
Coincidentally, look what Fedex just dropped off.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-amxIXCZh3GE/T2JiuGvjAAI/AAAAAAAAA4I/LI6Ef2h9FCI/s640/100_0491.JPG

LMII's 2nd grade Padauk fretboard, with the "proof" pdf. Been wanting to try alternate fretboard woods, and Padauk was first on the list. Anyone got any advice for working with it?
The other differences with this build will be that the truss rod will be adjustable from the heel, and it will have a typical Gibby type jack plate.
So, on to the neck. Here it is drawn out on the neck blank(I know it's hard to see, but trust me, it's there).

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PXm_9Nv0zNA/T2JfjYg9M7I/AAAAAAAAA3g/3PRoU6-nSLc/s640/100_0484.JPG

You know what this means.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-c2_xXo2mBHo/T2JgKjm37SI/AAAAAAAAA3o/gNw61R4BofE/s640/100_0485.JPG

And rough cut to the line

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-uGP2aIiKHqk/T2Jg3b7yQzI/AAAAAAAAA3w/ddX70eAkPoY/s640/100_0486.JPG

attach the neck template with double stick tape...

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-EGslkXLIALQ/T2JhXv7pwPI/AAAAAAAAA34/UA--MJ65dDs/s640/100_0487.JPG

...and, routed to the template.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yen3q4PR1fo/T2Jh-61bdMI/AAAAAAAAA4A/DHsAoIHL6xQ/s640/100_0488.JPG

Don't fancy putting a fender headstock on a non-fender guitar. My choice. Not preaching, not looking for a debate. You do what you want, I'll do what I want.
However, I wanted to kind of wink and nod in that direction, since we are talking T-style here.

Looking good! I hate screws breaking. Luckily that spot will not be seen.
I envy people who live in a place where it's possible to work outside..

Thanks.
If I could not work outside, I wouldn't be able to build. No room inside.

Could you have used the hole left behind as part of the channel to get the ground wire under the bridge? It's hard to tell where that hole sits in relation to the bridge.

Nice looking headstock by the way.

Could you have used the hole left behind as part of the channel to get the ground wire under the bridge? It's hard to tell where that hole sits in relation to the bridge.

Nice looking headstock by the way.

It is almost dead on where that hole goes. But the plug cutter made a 3/8" diameter hole. Way too big for a ground wire. I'm not really worried about it. It was replaced with the same wood as the body, and the bridge will cover it, so IMHO it's a non-issue.
Thanks for the complement on the headstock. I had a different design, but reworked the headstock on the template literally at the last minute. I like it a lot better than what I originally had.

Great work this far, I've had my share of snapped screws, I'm not a fan. The Deluxe is my favorite Tele as well, I put my Tele Custom on hold to start the challenge. I'm watching attentively!!

I have never used paduak before, but I understand that it is quite generous when it comes to sharing it's lovely reddish color with adjacent woods. I've heard that it's a bit of a pain trying to keep your maple from turning pink while sanding it. It might not be a bad idea to mask off everything you can around it when sanding to avoid these problems.

I'm looking forward to seeing this come together. Good luck.

Collectiveoasis, thanks. I'll do my best.
Devo stevo, thanks for the heads up.

I have never used paduak before, but I understand that it is quite generous when it comes to sharing it's lovely reddish color with adjacent woods. I've heard that it's a bit of a pain trying to keep your maple from turning pink while sanding it. It might not be a bad idea to mask off everything you can around it when sanding to avoid these problems.


I used a paduak fretboard on my build challenge guitar last year. I had zero bleed-thru problems, but the potential is there. I used a bottom brg router bit to profile my board to the neck, so no sanding there. I also radiused said board before carving the neck, so any affected maple was cleanly removed. I also sealed my board with clear danish oil before finishing the neck as well. There may have been pitfalls to be had all along, but in my case, each succeeding step removed that possibility. It does bleed, but not even half as bad as a rosewood. In any case, if your worried, do an eggwash on the fretboard, LINK (http://www.monicasguitars.com/Main%20Body%20Frame%20-%20Eggwash.htm), no more bleed-thru :wink:


Dave

Good job so far and I like your attitude with the "issue" that popped up.

I used a paduak fretboard on my build challenge guitar last year. I had zero bleed-thru problems, but the potential is there. I used a bottom brg router bit to profile my board to the neck, so no sanding there. I also radiused said board before carving the neck, so any affected maple was cleanly removed. I also sealed my board with clear danish oil before finishing the neck as well. There may have been pitfalls to be had all along, but in my case, each succeeding step removed that possibility. It does bleed, but not even half as bad as a rosewood. In any case, if your worried, do an eggwash on the fretboard, LINK (http://www.monicasguitars.com/Main%20Body%20Frame%20-%20Eggwash.htm), no more bleed-thru :wink:


Dave
And there you go. Like all things, there are ways to do them that reduce the possibilities of having a problem. Well done.

Thanks, Dave, for the first hand info, and thanks to all of you for your help and interest.

Your off to a great start , Love that pick guard! Happy building to ya!

I love the Deluxe. Great work so far. Looking forward to seeing the build progress.

I like the freboard a lot...I hope you leave it nice and light like it is...

i've used paduak alot. as everyone is saying, tape off your maple. frequent vacuuming is helpful just to control the dust. it's not terrible if you don't but it's easier just to tape it. it smells great too.

glad to see you're back. it's going to be really hard to keep up with people this year.

Thanks, guys!
Allthesound, this is the first pickguard I ever made, and it came out better than I thought it would. In fact, I started the build with the pickguard because I knew if I screwed it up I'd have to switch gears and build without one. Glad that didn't happen, since I think the pickguard is just about the sexiest thing about the Deluxe.:grin:
Dilbone, yeah, i like the fretboard a lot. When I first got it, I thought,"Wow, it's really orange, isn't it?":shock: But the more I look at it the more it grows on me, and I have no plans to stain it, oil it, or darken it in any way.
Volwv, thanks for the tip. And I agree. Gonna be hard to keep up. I'll do a little of that today, seeing as the weather(rain) is stopping work for me.:cry:

Got a break in the rain this afternoon, so I thought I'd pop out of my hole and rout the truss rod slot.
Here is the router set up to do it's job. The `1x4 on either side is used to keep the router centered.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8mVHeCQuW1Y/T2JjS5Hqj9I/AAAAAAAAA4Q/pC_R72a4PDk/s640/100_0492.JPG

And the rod in place.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-eZy5RyvqgFI/T2Oy7oLsI2I/AAAAAAAAA4Y/g8cgrqMDcL0/s640/100_0493.JPG

The rod I use normally does not need a filler strip. I usually rout for the truss rod slot so that the rod sits flush with the top of the neck blank. In this case, however, it ended up about 1/32" below the top of the blank, so I glued in a maple filler strip to prevent any possibility of rattle later.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-soI3Qr2Uomk/T2Ozi-uShcI/AAAAAAAAA4g/kvxVOCPgfL4/s640/2012Challenge%2520003.jpg
I'll use a Japanese pull saw(actually, my fret slotting saw) to cut that close to flush when the glue dries, and finish up with a chisel or hand plane.

Lookin good - I got my popcorn and can't wait to see this puppy done!

Lookin good - I got my popcorn and can't wait to see this puppy done!
Thanks, paulmarr!
Hopefully, if I can get good weather and the time to do it (and get the funds to order the grain filler and pick up the lacquer), I can be ready for finish by the end of next week. That's the goal, anyway.

Man I wish I was able to see, "hopefully putting finish on it by next week". I'm still staring
at a pile of wood that has no purpose or vision. Good work so far!

And that fretboard is really going to show that thing off. I think that's similar to the
Cocobolo I have (mine's very "orange" too) and the reason that stuff "stains" everything
is because it just shows up better. I used it on my last LP build and I was really intrigued
by how fine the sawdust was from cutting fret slots. It was almost like baby powder.

Can't wait to see this one come together!

Well, I'm not there yet. Everything needs to fall in place to meet that deadline. But since I am shooting lacquer, I need to get the building done ASAP if I'm gonna meet the finish deadline. Just gotta make sure I don't rush and mess something up.

That's exactly the scenario I'm looking at. I want a really nice lacquer finish and I don't want to rush it so I gotta get through this cut and sand dance quickly.

I probably could have done it last year, but the Challenge came up so quick that I was making templates for the first week and waiting on wood/parts/tools for the next. This year I'm more prepared. I sure hope it pays off.

Thanks, Dave, for the first hand info, and thanks to all of you for your help and interest.

No worries :smile:

BTW, check my thread for a reply to the router table issue. You can do it :smile:. I started building while living in a trailer nearly 30 yrs ago now. I build everything to be storable :lol:

Dave

OK, back to the body. Time to start hogging out wood that I don't need.
So, chuck a 1" forstner in my drill....

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QsE5l7TF7HM/T2TeAXBAlYI/AAAAAAAAA4o/nF8IMmuGNaA/s640/100_0496.JPG

....and awaaay we go!:lol:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t_VTa4NFhsA/T2TeZmU6VGI/AAAAAAAAA4w/p_QKsqXLq-w/s640/100_0497.JPG

Getting there.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PMcaws3NIXA/T2TetEh94gI/AAAAAAAAA44/1thNta2Njw0/s640/100_0498.JPG

Time for the router.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8hZAY-0lzRU/T2TfBpUyKtI/AAAAAAAAA5A/nwWxIEHMhtw/s640/100_0499.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6FPyaAeKH2U/T2TfaTStZYI/AAAAAAAAA5I/nAexD9yvvh4/s640/100_0502.JPG

And I think that went fairly well.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-D2MxiHvCXKc/T2Tf9dAL5zI/AAAAAAAAA5Q/kmXuAIKTyVc/s640/100_0503.JPG

Starting to look like a Deluxe.
Next up, I need a big ole' honkin' belly cut. Why, you ask? Well, because truth be told, I've got a big ole' honkin' belly.:shock:
I start by marking a general outline. Just going by eye.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X-hqfSH_sco/T2TgiSDN7wI/AAAAAAAAA5Y/u7pzE2DLI8w/s640/100_0505.JPG

The little squiggly lines below the belly cut lines are the location of the pickup and switch cavities. Doubt it would happen, but I want to make certain I don't go on through to those when I do this.
I start out with a decent wood rasp.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Pdvl7nABy5s/T2ThOgmFeoI/AAAAAAAAA5g/2RrLH9IxM9Q/s640/100_0506.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-D2YHaR0_1OM/T2Thog3m6AI/AAAAAAAAA5o/_o5zw4MmJ2A/s640/100_0507.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KfX6Mv86uUw/T2TiKWW7VdI/AAAAAAAAA5w/p3tPE1Z5liU/s640/100_0508.JPG

And I'm done with the rasp.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9n6_Wb0-3ek/T2Tiu3ih50I/AAAAAAAAA54/GyNFkx9t4WE/s640/100_0512.JPG

I follow that up with a cheap plane that I've attached 60 grit to, so I can smooth out the scratches and gouges the rasp left behind.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RGMgcUqbLkw/T2TjUjjoviI/AAAAAAAAA6A/mwBOe6FOXEg/s640/100_0513.JPG

Follow that with the jitterbug.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-eeKW3GOnr-c/T2Tj2k-RJJI/AAAAAAAAA6I/GoC1N6Dxh_w/s640/100_0514.JPG

And, the result.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-v3ICcV9SIT4/T2TkHSP8zmI/AAAAAAAAA6Q/6q94O1mS7QE/s640/100_0515.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7qr8kebyc64/T2TkhPjdV2I/AAAAAAAAA6Y/o5FmAbf2O50/s640/100_0516.JPG

Very nice "big ole belly" cut. Since I have the same...ahem..."condition", this would fit
me well!

Very nice "big ole belly" cut. Since I have the same...ahem..."condition", this would fit
me well!
I bet there are a lot of us here that have the same...ahem..."condition".:lol:

Time for the roundover portion of this exercise.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-K8cbnmw5JlU/T2TqAqymLJI/AAAAAAAAA6g/gaLiPzRxsx8/s640/100_0517.JPG

the transitions at the rear of the neck joint.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jJrMWlkUmWc/T2TqYqauZrI/AAAAAAAAA6o/Z5b088tXR00/s640/100_0518.JPG

The front of the neck pocket area.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Tw0_kAjkP9Y/T2TrMbTli5I/AAAAAAAAA64/NLdu_EHB_oY/s640/100_0521.JPG

A shot of the side.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-QZfsZIMaxi8/T2Tq3DAUnEI/AAAAAAAAA6w/hqfn4hV3Mck/s640/100_0519.JPG

And a few final shots of the body after some time hand sanding the edges.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AfL64ihwEM8/T2Tt7etFJ-I/AAAAAAAAA7o/rsPGKxJM92Q/s640/100_0532.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Yhikg5ljew0/T2TuUa5B5LI/AAAAAAAAA7w/VBFdGZqcKmE/s640/100_0533.JPG

Sanded the edge of the belly carve by hand to match the rest.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0YRPI7-Iw1w/T2TuqKAeuII/AAAAAAAAA74/BnwnqLOEUkk/s640/100_0534.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ujCt__BCpsA/T2Tu_0VI36I/AAAAAAAAA8A/QzFb2NYd1ew/s640/100_0535.JPG

Looking great! I dig the belly contour, are you going for the 3 screw plate as well... Then again I think I remember seeing four holes in previous shots, my bad. Looks nice though.

Have you given any thought to what sort of finish? I know lacquer but a color? I'm cool with it if you wanna keep it a surprise..

Thanks!
Haven't drilled the neck mounting holes yet, but it will be a four screw. To devil with the three screw plate! One thing I hate about 70's fenders.
Won't drill the neck mounting holes until I rout for the neck pocket. And won't do that until the neck is completed(except for finish).
As to finish, I think I'm gonna let the wood speak for itself. And since I'll be using aerosol, probably just a clear lacquer finish. I do have some maple stain here. As long as I only did one or two light coats, it would add a little bit of an amber tint to the body. Might try that. Haven't decided. Whatever i do, I'll make sure that I let the beauty of the grain show through.

I am also a fan of the Tele belly cut. Will be putting one on mine to, for the same reason. I also us a card scraper after the rasp, smooth things out lickity split.

I am also a fan of the Tele belly cut. Will be putting one on mine to, for the same reason. I also us a card scraper after the rasp, smooth things out lickity split.

Yeah, I've got a scraper here. It always is in need of a good, burnished edge.
But they are indeed a wonderful tool for smoothing wood.
As to the belly cut, that's something i really am used to, since i have played a strat off and on since the beginning. But the forearm cuts on a tele just look weird. Would've loved to have done one, but not on a tele.

Wow awesome! Why have I never made a thinline? I guess that goes on the list now that I've seen this. Great work.

Great job today, Mike! I'm getting ready to put a tummy cut on the jazzmaster I'm working on, so this part of your thread was very timely. In other words, I didn't know I was going to do it, but now I do :lol:

Cool, Roger! Is your Jazzmaster build posted in the Depot? I was watching one before the Challenge rolled around, but can't remember who's it was.
About the belly cut. A lot of guys use those sanding flapper thingy's on a hand held angle grinder. I've got one of those, but never tried that. I like to do the belly cuts and forearm contours by hand. It makes them all a little different. The ash was no pushover, though. Doing it this way can be a real workout!

Yeah Mike, I've got it posted in the depot. I think I called the thread "Jazzmaster-ish". I've also got a thread on it over at the OLF.

Time to get back on this.
The filler strip is dry, so I cut it as flush as I could with my StewMac fret saw.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-caAm0xPO53Q/T2e9bVVASLI/AAAAAAAAA8M/y_o78OepBcE/s640/100_0536.JPG

After that, it still needed to be planed level a bit, so I grabbed a sharp block plane and went to work.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-G-JO8SIwqUg/T2e-C7IZUEI/AAAAAAAAA8U/3zFlsKlbVu8/s640/100_0537.JPG

Now the neck blank is ready for the fretboard.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W2JEaZ0YZl0/T2e-uLOYtgI/AAAAAAAAA8c/PXuh_UGxjlk/s640/100_0538.JPG


Speaking of the fretboard, it's time to lay out the fret slots.
I cut a nut slot on the fretboard with my table saw. It cuts a nearly perfect 1/8" slot with one pass.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3ezTxwfgIDg/T2e_51KSbTI/AAAAAAAAA8s/Dbvf4Lz-rpI/s640/100_0540.JPG
Here are the tools I'll be using. The only thing not in the pics is a 35" rule.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JofN-eZ1dDs/T2e_ZxwVg9I/AAAAAAAAA8k/ID9vEmogFIM/s640/100_0539.JPG

This is way beyond tasty ,please don't hide it !!

119674

To begin laying out the fret locations, I use my calipers. I start at the fretboard side of the nut. The first fret is 1.431" from the nut, according to StewMac.
So I set my calipers for 1.431", and mark that distance.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eQm2QbZYzOQ/T2fAW5GyBMI/AAAAAAAAA80/d7OUW9nUgKc/s640/100_0541.JPG

Then, using a combination square, I mark the fret location.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0BO5A-bu33k/T2fAvuTdKkI/AAAAAAAAA88/yUys5c8kehw/s640/100_0543.JPG
I should note that your fretboard must be square to do it this way. If the board is tapered, it's a good idea to measure from both sides, and then connect the line. I did that for the first few slots anyway, just to make certain my board is square.
The second fret is 2.782" from the nut. So, closing up my calipers, zeroing them, and starting over from there, I set them for 2.782", and mark my fret location, again, from the nut.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rU2gbv5oO_Q/T2fBKUogu2I/AAAAAAAAA9E/MUisTSKPABw/s640/100_0544.JPG
I should mention that I have found it really important to close the calipers, zero them, and start from there for each measurement. I didn't do this once, and my measurements were way off. Won't happen again.
And again, mark the fret location.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-wkPdwTAU7Qs/T2fBikCQc1I/AAAAAAAAA9M/xneHV44_umc/s640/100_0545.JPG

This is way beyond tasty ,please don't hide it !!

119674
Thanks! I don't intend to. This will either get a natural clear coat, or a light staining and then a clear coat. The grain will definitely still be visible.

So, once I reach the fifth fret, which is beyond the reach of my 6" calipers, the 35" rule comes into play.
The 5th fret is 6.397" from the nut. So starting from the nut, I lay my 35" rule onto the fretboard, and place a mark at the 6" location.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Xtwl1__u_hE/T2fCWdO0_SI/AAAAAAAAA9c/nny7kdvZam4/s640/100_0547.JPG
Then, I set my calipers to .397", and mark that distance from the 6" mark.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-756SKEWAlDc/T2fCxIU3rOI/AAAAAAAAA9k/3m1oDIHT9lU/s640/100_0548.JPG

I continue in this way until all 21 fret slots are transferred to the fretboard.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4xgF97BsuAg/T2fDNe_py2I/AAAAAAAAA9s/CIUNkGvySUk/s640/100_0549.JPG

Then it's just a matter of placing the fretboard in my cheap miter box....

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qrCQkhqvFOQ/T2fDgx2AY0I/AAAAAAAAA90/McPlIu2a80Y/s640/100_0550.JPG

....and cutting all the slots.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d93VJeI3v6A/T2fEPvydqXI/AAAAAAAAA98/3ERPzj6-_T0/s640/100_0551.JPG

After that, it's time to locate and drill for the dot inlays. To do this, I place some masking tape down the approximate center of the board, find the actual center at both ends, and draw it out on the tape. Then i mark the position of the dots.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6BwxaKQiMAI/T2fGN5XuzcI/AAAAAAAAA-M/V9T99K23KLM/s640/100_0553.JPG

Drilled for dots.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-QNJLEK_T0EA/T2fGu3zqW5I/AAAAAAAAA-U/wm4E_j5RnzM/s640/100_0554.JPG

To install the marker dots, I just use plain ole' titebond. Works just fine for this, IME.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-A3luiUWKEtg/T2fHiMDYlwI/AAAAAAAAA-k/oWxD9Sjd39g/s640/100_0556.JPG

And here are a couple of pics of the dot inlays installed.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-axJu1Kd7oT0/T2fH205ITqI/AAAAAAAAA-s/TN3McBdp0MI/s640/100_0557.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qiOKTb64NWE/T2fIcQFqoWI/AAAAAAAAA-0/VVAG_yJb3sU/s640/100_0558.JPG

I think a program like this would have helped you.

Still might. It's quite possible you have added compounding measurement errors in your fretboard.

Print out your fretboard and do a side by side comparison.

Worst case scenario, fill in the slots you've cut incorrectly and re-cut them.

Or just buy a new FB.

BTW, I'm not saying you did anything wrong per se... but that if you did it's better to find out NOW rather than plugging into your amp. :wink:

BD

I think a program like this would have helped you.

Still might. It's quite possible you have added compounding measurement errors in your fretboard.

Print out your fretboard and do a side by side comparison.

Worst case scenario, fill in the slots you've cut incorrectly and re-cut them.

Or just buy a new FB.

BTW, I'm not saying you did anything wrong per se... but that if you did it's better to find out NOW rather than plugging into your amp. :wink:

BD
Thank baja, but there's no need. I check, double check, and triple check my measurements. They are all begun from the nut. You usually compound errors when measuring fret to fret, not nut to fret. Add to that that I check the nut to fret, then fret to fret measurements, and make any corrections needed. I also have plenty of 25.5" scale guitars here for comparison. It's dead on.

Also, no offense meant, but if the program you have suggested involves printing out the scale on paper, I'll pass. Doing this assumes my printer will print to scale, or that I won't glue it onto the fretboard wrong, or tape the pages together wrong. I'd rather trust to my calipers and 35" rule, and physically make certain each fret is right. I've done it this way for every build I've done(except the first, which had a preslotted board). I've had zero problems with this method. The key is to check your measurements. Then check them again.

[QUOTE=gitlvr;4020800]So, once I reach the fifth fret, which is beyond the reach of my 6" calipers, the 35" rule comes into play.
The 5th fret is 6.397" from the nut. So starting from the nut, I lay my 35" rule onto the fretboard, and place a mark at the 6" location.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Xtwl1__u_hE/T2fCWdO0_SI/AAAAAAAAA9c/nny7kdvZam4/s640/100_0547.JPG
Then, I set my calipers to .397", and mark that distance from the 6" mark.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-756SKEWAlDc/T2fCxIU3rOI/AAAAAAAAA9k/3m1oDIHT9lU/s640/100_0548.JPG

I continue in this way until all 21 fret slots are transferred to the fretboard.

That is so simple! If you had posted this earlier, I could have saved a bunch of Jamison's. That will really help me out when I lay out the frets on my fretboard next time (since I radiused them off the first time!).

That is so simple! If you had posted this earlier, I could have saved a bunch of Jamison's. That will really help me out when I lay out the frets on my fretboard next time (since I radiused them off the first time!).
I'm glad i could help! If you use this method, you need to remember a couple of things. Firstly, check, and recheck, and check your measurements again.
The possiblilty of compound errors was mentioned. Not picking on the poster who posted that, but I think there is a misunderstanding of what a compound error is.
Compound errors occur when measuring fret to fret. The reason is simple.
If I make an error in the location of a fret, and I then take a measurement from that fret to the next, I add that error to the next fret. If I continue on this way, measuring from fret to fret, I compound that error over the length of the fretboard. This is the very definition of a compound error.
If, however, I measure from a fixed point, ie; the nut, then while I do not exclude the possiblity of error, I do work to exclude the possiblity of compound error. If i'm diligent to check and recheck my measurements, I can lay out a pretty accurate fretboard.
There is nothing inherently inaccurate in using an accurate rule and set of calipers to physically lay out your fretboard. The method I use has been used for decades. Long before there was anything like a home computer, or printable fret scales you could get off of the internet. It works well, IF you are diligent to check, recheck, and check again. Everyone has their own way of building. It's what makes this so addictive. There are a thousand ways to skin this cat. This is mine. It's also something that i really enjoy doing. To me, there's nothing like taking my tools and physically laying out the fret locations on the fretboard. Love it.

You mind coming over to my place and laying out mine?

But seriously...I understand the concept of the compound error. I laid my slots out with the calipers (as far as they would reach) and then a combination of a 36" rule and my more accurate 12" rule and a calculator. The only thig I have that is accurate to .00whatever is the caliper - thus I really like your method. Thank you muches.

Nice job so far! My first ever acoustic guitar was made from Paduak. Are you going to use a UV inhibitor? The color goes very brown pretty fast.

Now that all this math has my head hurting, I want to add that I'm really digging on
the orange in the fretboard. I'm kinda partial to the stuff!

Nosmo, you're welcome. And sorry, but Texas is a long way from here, lol.
Thanks, Guitarbuilder! And no, no UV inhibitor. I knew it would eventually turn brown, and am looking forward to it, actually. Never seen it happen, and would like to get an idea of what it might look like, for future build considerations. i like the way it works so far. Seems to be similar to rosewood(my preference), but not quite as hard. Would like to start moving away from rosewood for the fretboard(Gibson's recent problems, among other factors along the same lines that I cannot get into on this forum), hence the Padauk in the first place.

Now that all this math has my head hurting, I want to add that I'm really digging on
the orange in the fretboard. I'm kinda partial to the stuff!
Fortunately, StewMac did the math for me, I just laid it out on the board. Other wise, I'd be pulling my hair clean out!
And yeah, I really like the color of the fretboard as well. As I said though, interested to see what oxidation over time does to it.

Time to glue down the fretboard. I place the fretboard on the neck blank, get it in the proper place, and drill two small holes, one in each end of the fret board in a fret slot, and each on opposite sides of the truss rod. Then I use two little nails to serve as locator pins, to hold it in position so it doesn't shift when I clamp it. You can see them in this pic below.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KV8LEMCk8kc/T2jJB0x-wyI/AAAAAAAAA_A/bfgv85znwHg/s640/100_0559.JPG

Then I place masking tape over anything I don't want glue in. In this case, the adjusting nut and the little space where the anchor point for the rod is(don't want glue getting down into the rod from this spot). Then it's just a matter of spreading the glue....

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_8bj1pZSK_8/T2jJhaR4gnI/AAAAAAAAA_I/lnwKwCOEsb0/s640/100_0560.JPG

....removing the tape....

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q5376mX0yUw/T2jJ-VYBN5I/AAAAAAAAA_Q/HWsxyFOFpe0/s640/100_0561.JPG

....and clamping 'er down.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-V0QrB6yL_2A/T2jKxs7CgGI/AAAAAAAAA_Y/6jPM-uXnUS0/s640/100_0562.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SMCfYzdC_IE/T2jLUgCdowI/AAAAAAAAA_g/34sFCnX1Zzc/s640/100_0563.JPG

I'll let that sit in the clamps overnight. More to come.

Beautiful fingerboard!

Looks great so far, can't wait to see it done!

Thanks, nosmo and telejoseph!
Trimmed the fretboard to the neck blank today.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r3V2FLJoYUc/T2oT9BMgXPI/AAAAAAAAA_o/pd3y4n-CVn8/s640/100_0564.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1uhtdvxHGBc/T2oUaK2M0vI/AAAAAAAAA_w/XGfLl60SGcY/s640/100_0565.JPG
Had to stop work because it was trying to rain. But I have some impressions of Padauk, for those of you who are interested.
Firstly, it splits along the grain really easily. That's something to think about when working this wood.
Also, it routs literally like butter. I've never routed a wood that routs so easily and smoothly. An absolute joy . However, taking it's tendency to split along the grain, you could be looking at a really ugly situation if you were not careful with the router, or if you routed against the grain, took too much wood at a time, etc.
The wood feels to me a little like a cross between rosewood and ebony. However, it's nowhere near as hard as either of them. Or at least that's the impression I get.
The fine saw dust was mentioned. You can notice that, even when routing. This is gonna sound funny, but the chips to me look a lot like crayon shavings, that's how smooth and soft looking they are. I've not radiussed the board yet, but I've got a feeling that this wood is gonna clog up my sandpaper real easily. A lot worse than rosewood. My impression is that this wood is a pretty oily one, similar to some rosewoods.
I'll know more after radiussing and fretting, but first impressions for me are pretty favorable. It all depends on what this wood looks like once it oxidizes, but I'm definitely considering it as a viable alternative to rosewood for future builds.

Time to thickness the headstock. Last time, I cut away the excess with a hand saw. A friend on another forum saw that, and suggested I give the router a shot. So, here we are set up in the router sled.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-mRMX9kB4ROE/T2o0JokNYFI/AAAAAAAAA_4/38VXGkBdzRg/s640/100_0566.JPG

Either my computer or Picasa is playing games with me. The rest of the pics in my album don't want to load up. They are taking forever. I've got the page to load up a couple of times, but all I'm getting now are text, no pics. Grrr! I can't sit here anymore. Have to get to church. I'm the piano player, and I need to be there. Hopefully, I'll get a chance to finish this post later tonight. If not, I'll see you all tomorrow evening with the rest of the updates of my work today.
Sorry.

OK, I'm back in business. Headstock thicknessing 101 continues.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-M8QCNqpl4qc/T2o0fDfFNcI/AAAAAAAABAA/FMgbswWsF9Q/s640/100_0567.JPG

A little rough, but it'll be easy to smooth out.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EIHJ-W80AxY/T2o01jsnYkI/AAAAAAAABAI/-9kaoHtmeqg/s640/100_0569.JPG

I use this little drum to do the headstock/fingerboard transition....

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UecGEJ6Eoeo/T2o1yR6tiuI/AAAAAAAABAQ/wjyX8OuThSI/s640/100_0570.JPG

...and an old, flat plane with some paper wrapped around it to flatten the front of the headstock.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-z1THLVEWf1c/T2o3AdCFMxI/AAAAAAAABAo/OTlT2JFnKA4/s640/100_0573.JPG

When I get close, I draw some hash marks on the face to help me see when it's level. If I use a flat block, and all the hash marks go away, it should be level.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-D8rQ251hXto/T2o3jYH1_AI/AAAAAAAABAw/oSp0J8BA2EI/s640/100_0574.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UnIt2FnA34A/T2o4NA0y-3I/AAAAAAAABA4/eYMhIFOmQZ4/s640/100_0575.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nzsZwgLyKb4/T2o5HOH0C9I/AAAAAAAABBA/k_zxiST74a8/s640/100_0576.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qert6CorjOE/T2o8IFGpDGI/AAAAAAAABBY/TpvfjfZ5pMA/s640/100_0580.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MmRfIDOaNtI/T2o7HDPBARI/AAAAAAAABBQ/YewO3t1xWOc/s640/100_0579.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YAOM_wkxqMw/T2o8_Si_YFI/AAAAAAAABBg/UZx7_wt3T8g/s640/100_0581.JPG

To drill for tuners, I use masking tape on the face of the headstock, and mark their location.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_3mbRkSwO7w/T2o9d_N4qPI/AAAAAAAABBo/JNbk9Ph-VbY/s640/100_0582.JPG

Then i center punch each one....

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-psLpMu1KuN0/T2o9uzntHaI/AAAAAAAABBw/LFVdbtFLMfo/s640/100_0583.JPG

...and clamp it down to the bench to help avoid tear out when the bit exits the back of the headstock.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-c1Dobh50oQs/T2o-fzHUy2I/AAAAAAAABB4/TvpJ2LY9bwk/s640/100_0584.JPG

Many of you have seen me use this little tool, which I've taken to calling "Thing", to help me drill straight holes.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wi3WXJybGwg/T2o_ZaNNXLI/AAAAAAAABCA/ZrXqFXAKQ24/s640/100_0585.JPG

And, a couple of finish shots.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ta3Sr47BzRM/T2pAFL_uRpI/AAAAAAAABCI/D08uH6mV6t4/s640/100_0586.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zVp_wEXKoxk/T2pAo5tprCI/AAAAAAAABCQ/UsKLFB43vYE/s640/100_0587.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1HVogNThBK8/T2pBF0-nuVI/AAAAAAAABCY/NszidRhBIOU/s640/100_0588.JPG

Gorgeous neck!
Keep up the awesome work.

I love the way you use simple tools. A lot to learn for guys like me with a limited budget and no permanent workshop space.

Thanks, guys!

I love the way you use simple tools. A lot to learn for guys like me with a limited budget and no permanent workshop space.

Aye. And I'd like a closer look at "Thing" if you would.

looking good mike.

i've never really thought of paduak as oily, but maybe it is. i'll agree it is "soft", even though it is as hard as maple, it just cuts more easily.

also, i'm amazed that you are measuring your fret layout in inches. it's alot easier for me to use metric. just looking at the picture of your ruler hurt my head.

FWIW, the paduak fretboard on my tenor build, has aged to an almost golden brown. Looks almost like a cross between rosewood and mahogany :grin:

Thanks for the interest, guys.
Moobox, "Thing" is simply the big metal piece off of a combination square.
Volowv, I don't know if Padauk is oily or not, I'm just referring to the way the shavings look.
There's a smoothness or homogeneous look to them that looks oily to me. Hard to explain. The reference to crayon shavings comes to mind again. Have you ever sharpened a crayon? They have that shiny, oily look to them.
As to the metric system, I have a deep and abiding hatred for it.:twisted::mrgreen:
Actually, since I only use the ruler to go to the whole inch, and then use the digital calipers to get to the final destination, I don't see where the metric system would make a bit of difference. Even if I had a metric ruler, the final few fractions of a millimeter(or is that centimeter? I never could remember) would still be laid out with the calipers anyway. Six of one, half a dozen of the other, IMHO. Since, when laying my fretboard beside a known 25.5" scale guitar shows I'm dead on, it seems to work well for me.
Dave, thanks for the look ahead on the Padauk. Looking forward to it. How long did it take to get there?

thanks for the look ahead on the Padauk. Looking forward to it. How long did it take to get there?
I didn't get it out all that much,3 or 4 trips, but I noticed a difference in color the first month, just a faint change of hue. It seemed to rapidly darken the next 3 months then slowed til it reached the golden brown about 9 months after it was built. With more exposure to UV it's supposed to get dark quickly. I didn't do anything special, just let nature take it's course :smile:

Dave

Thanks, Dave.

Thanks, Dave.

No worries! :grin:

Sorry there's been no progress of late. My entire weekend has been one big sheet of rain. Here's hoping the weather is fairer this week. Got a lot to do still before finish.

Time to radius the fretboard.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7p3ATh7fPJc/T3D0FI9bZII/AAAAAAAABCs/vwGOavIf9_8/s640/100_0590.JPG

I start with 60, and usually go on through to 400. The 1X4 on either side of the neck simply holds the block loosely in the center of the board, so that I can go to town on it without having to worry about it shifting around.
The orange dust looks like Tang, lol. Weird.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JSximH_9W9s/T3D0qZnT8kI/AAAAAAAABC0/BGBM04Q5pJ8/s640/100_0591.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-oNqQ-d08dzo/T3D1QU4vwII/AAAAAAAABC8/JZpuEupLeAM/s640/100_0592.JPG

Here it is sanded to 220.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AxYfyQgUCyo/T3D1qhRWVTI/AAAAAAAABDE/C5dsU2m9qZc/s640/100_0593.JPG

And that's as far as I can take it. I sanded through one of the marker dots.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4d-c-y7_9gM/T3D2ML-iTFI/AAAAAAAABDM/ntqyrEl0gHU/s640/100_0594.JPG

Here are a couple of pics to show the radius.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0filK5rIXh4/T3D3DgE20FI/AAAAAAAABDc/fBOAjgAIWVI/s640/100_0596.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-tteicy7NH-U/T3D3RWfEhCI/AAAAAAAABDk/OL5wIDSM-cQ/s640/100_0597.JPG

When i sanded through the fret marker at the 12th, i thought I had no recourse but to continue on with it like it was. I had used all of my dot inlays, or so I thought.
So I moved on to fretting.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vRn2nha1_7U/T3D4hCaIp_I/AAAAAAAABD0/D5wJjqcUaZY/s640/100_0599.JPG
I will continue from there, in the order in which I actually did the work, and you will see that I did indeed have a way to fix this issue.
Here you see it fretted.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-PoDJLEo9Oqw/T3D5JfByI2I/AAAAAAAABD8/NquMyZAQco4/s640/100_0600.JPG

I use a big, fat, mill bastard file to file the fret ends flush. i need to get those sharp ends flush so that I can continue working with the neck.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1RKbsCKrtQk/T3D5ta_pcxI/AAAAAAAABEE/9-BFyIMl3Io/s640/100_0601.JPG

Remember i said I had a way to fix that fret marker? Well, I need to remove it first.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WZZgHEglzto/T3D6ifc51eI/AAAAAAAABEU/XbivvWK4SrA/s640/100_0603.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0S6-oJ0OFfQ/T3D6_ATcmFI/AAAAAAAABEc/1GQfWFXl02M/s640/100_0604.JPG
Once i had it removed it was time for a replacement. I at first thought that I had nothing to replace it with. But then I remembered. I have an old fretboard I removed from another guitar. It has the same size inlays as those I'm using now. And it's already radiused to 12". So i popped it out of the old fretboard. This is where I'm really glad i use titebond and not CA to install fret markers. I just took a pair of needle nose pliers, nibbled away at the old fretboard until I uncovered part of the inlay, and just popped it right out, whole.
If I'm really careful with the drill, I can get the depth just right, and the pre-radiused inlay will sit in there nice and flush and fine.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lipK71muuJk/T3D7Q_5DHGI/AAAAAAAABEk/pnVg5l_dSbo/s640/100_0605.JPG

A little dab of glue....

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-MNXB-rJjad4/T3D7_w8m4KI/AAAAAAAABEs/D5mQ65O24h8/s640/100_0606.JPG

...and voila! Nice, flush fit.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W4jGprOKZOk/T3D8ue5uFjI/AAAAAAAABE0/fvMD3mnbzGo/s640/100_0607.JPG

I'll clean up the glue with a little steel wool when i do the final sanding before finish and we'll be good to go.
Time to bevel the ends of the frets. I use an old hand plane with 60 grit attached.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lO4CCY264RA/T3D9dKDGorI/AAAAAAAABE8/WPW2tyZRFxs/s640/100_0608.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f8qP2xaufo8/T3D99tX0fXI/AAAAAAAABFE/GPlOvfTqXQ0/s640/100_0609.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-D_hvJhYmMgw/T3D-g_HWtnI/AAAAAAAABFM/8O6TGOJxgxw/s640/100_0610.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2qO57bG0UYU/T3D-9BVNTVI/AAAAAAAABFU/fGI4dLzXZwg/s640/100_0611.JPG

And, drilled for side dots.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z-f-yhmEnP4/T3D_b8DknoI/AAAAAAAABFc/yy9MOElBR5w/s640/100_0612.JPG

I install them with a little bit of titebond...

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZFA4FAs7044/T3D_6-K0A2I/AAAAAAAABFk/WR0GZBRvTLk/s640/100_0613.JPG

...and trim them flush with a razor blade.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-hHpFBUqT-vE/T3EAS_lcXdI/AAAAAAAABFs/CAVkeNZ-5ko/s640/100_0614.JPG

They usually don't require any more than that, but they will get a bit of sanding during the prep for finishing the neck.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jQQ_5l7YdK0/T3EAgrVuUiI/AAAAAAAABF0/0CkuKQwtkBU/s640/100_0615.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uDeD8aioGfg/T3EBlwePI7I/AAAAAAAABGM/tjeX_B8CPD4/s640/100_0618.JPG

Can't wait to see the whole neck done. Heck, I can't wait for the lot! Nice work so far :-)

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KV8LEMCk8kc/T2jJB0x-wyI/AAAAAAAAA_A/bfgv85znwHg/s640/100_0559.JPG


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_8bj1pZSK_8/T2jJhaR4gnI/AAAAAAAAA_I/lnwKwCOEsb0/s640/100_0560.JPG

....removing the tape....

How thick is your neck blank at this point in the process? Prior to the fretboard.

Mine is usually 3/4" or maybe 11/16"

Mine is usually 3/4" or maybe 11/16"

I shoot for 13/16ths.

Awesome use of the workmate - I love mine to death!

Telejoseph, thanks. I'm uploading pics of the neck carve. As soon as that gets done, I'll be updating this thread.
Chewie, the neck blank was 3/4" before the fretboard. Like Mojotron, I like them a little thicker than that, but this is what I had. I don't really worry about thickness at the heel, as long as it's at least 1" with the fretboard. If it's a little thicker, I just adjust the neck pocket depth accordingly.
Mojotron, thanks. Yeah, I love my Workmate as well. I'd be lost without it.
It was several years old when I got it. It was given to me by a friend, and it's been through two sets of top boards and is ready for a third. I just can't stop building long enough to do it, lol. It's the only work bench I've got. I could not build without it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L1pi2Pr_pew/T3JIP5XF7bI/AAAAAAAABGY/3wBqVMUoaCQ/s640/100_0619.JPG
Time to carve the neck, Joseph! I start by marking the transitions at the head...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-sS_19R8mIxA/T3JJTCFy4pI/AAAAAAAABGg/IcPzuAsS6_w/s640/100_0620.JPG

...and heel.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gRzG8mG5v1o/T3JJ5xo7FeI/AAAAAAAABGo/bBurBlstzXo/s640/100_0621.JPG

Then i mark the final thickness I want for the neck at the head...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-E7hewoVGyrg/T3JKjx0jl5I/AAAAAAAABGw/AimzMFowP7o/s640/100_0622.JPG

...and heel, giving it a small taper in thickness from head to heel.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xO4-SeZIM0c/T3JK_oNIkfI/AAAAAAAABG4/K3QiPbEzME0/s640/100_0623.JPG

Then I start carving away wood.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wwF3qJXXihk/T3JLqwvjL9I/AAAAAAAABHA/Ojg_zUOPxsk/s640/100_0624.JPG

Once i get down close to the thickness I want, i turn the file across the neck, like so...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-EsC3LHMaw3I/T3JMGU_NCxI/AAAAAAAABHI/gssuWzqTm3w/s640/100_0625.JPG

...and grasping the file on both sides, I use what is called draw filing. I pull the file toward me, keeping it flat and level across the back of the neck. This flattens the back of the neck out, getting rid of any bumps or humps and bringing it down to the proper thickness. Like this.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Lz2OqlB5kFo/T3JMeAwaPBI/AAAAAAAABHQ/3V7FCcEawnA/s640/100_0626.JPG

Then i draw a center line on the back. As i carve the neck, I'll make sure never to hit this line, so that my neck blank stays at the proper thickness until final shaping and sanding.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ktBADr-aYC0/T3JMx-3HYsI/AAAAAAAABHY/Y9rwQxerOow/s640/100_0627.JPG

To carve a neck, I use a series of angles, or facets. I start with a very shallow one on both sides....

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-OZIVCCn6XCc/T3JNmrsEoII/AAAAAAAABHg/7qBmExwLmpY/s640/100_0628.JPG

I continue in this way until I get a basic shape.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-97o4RcXrR-Q/T3JPRCx79XI/AAAAAAAABHw/va-kSiPWtsg/s640/100_0630.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Gmh0aqbuzgU/T3JPn30Ev9I/AAAAAAAABH4/TFHd9z7wJZE/s640/100_0631.JPG

Then i start on the head and heel contours.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xlhH9yfJYdE/T3JP9fqH_MI/AAAAAAAABIA/F1jQqNSv1uM/s640/100_0632.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-EJloAnmBho4/T3JQzJez5vI/AAAAAAAABII/FIJIKsxi_V0/s640/100_0633.JPG

After that, it's just a simple matter to knock off the corners of the facets, and gradually carve out a radius on the back of the neck.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-waf6tJfzzBw/T3JRv4_VI5I/AAAAAAAABIQ/Dr--0qiYT1U/s640/100_0634.JPG

Final shaping is done with 60 grit.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UQUIwYMAki8/T3JSajM02HI/AAAAAAAABIY/yaiy_r0uRng/s640/100_0635.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nsq9Vz2IFHc/T3JTIMHkFDI/AAAAAAAABIg/i5CvJJHg034/s640/100_0636.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nf-JkwgjUOg/T3JTtCDs2HI/AAAAAAAABIo/1DVJr-yKCs0/s640/100_0637.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-49o5pk06ENQ/T3JUUn7xKuI/AAAAAAAABIw/itAaRC7odnA/s640/100_0638.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Hopi7OmCHMQ/T3JVfCGuMeI/AAAAAAAABI4/IPWf2svB2aA/s640/100_0639.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lipZC9V2geg/T3JWAgQrBOI/AAAAAAAABJA/QbuYV_fBfbc/s640/100_0640.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QCwhfJXMf18/T3JWjdWcAlI/AAAAAAAABJI/_z4J9foZpGU/s640/100_0641.JPG

It still needs a little bit of fine shaping at the corners of the heel transition, and then of course, final sanding.
Thanks for watching.

After that, it's just a simple matter to knock off the corners of the facets, and gradually carve out a radius on the back of the neck.

Final shaping is done with 60 grit.



Nice work. The neck carve looks awesome.

Thanks, Axedaddy. I'm happy with it.:smile:

Nice job, Mike. I've only carved 1 neck so far, but I thoroughly enjoyed it. Can't wait to do this one.

Nice save on that dot Mike. Looking good so far.
Watching the "workshop challenged" guys like you and Glenn (FlatFive) brings back fond memories of that corner of my parents basement. Keep up the good work.

Steve

That is a gorgeous head stock and neck. I gotta work out a cool head stock design like that, tired of borrowing Fender's.

Thanks a lot, guys!
Roger, I love carving the neck. It's hard work, actually. I'm worn out, :lol:. But there's nothing like seeing and feeling the neck literally come to life under your hands. Well worth the effort, IMHO.
Wheelie, thanks. One of these days, I'll have a nice workshop. But then I'll have to alter the way I do everything.:sad:
MuzikP, thanks. I like the headstock as well. I didn't put a lot of thought into it. I actually had a different design on my template. It was ok, but I didn't really like it and altered it at the last second. Guess I got lucky and put the final touches on the design at the last moment. It'll definitely be the design I use for future F-styled necks.

Nice carve! I'm starting to like that part too.

Thanks, tklaavo.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f8qP2xaufo8/T3D99tX0fXI/AAAAAAAABFE/GPlOvfTqXQ0/s640/100_0609.JPG


This, is the money shot. That paduak is stunning :smile:. The dust is insidious too. I saved most of mine, mixed it with glue and used it for frets and fretmarkers for my lapsteel :lol:
Damn fine neck Mike :wink:


Dave

That neck is just pornography! Absolutely stunning, brilliant work man :-)

Thanks, Dave and Joseph!
And I agree, Dave. Wasn't quite sure whether or not I'd like the look of the Padauk when I ordered it, but the longer I look at it the more I grow to really love the look. And if it goes golden mahogany-like later, I think I'm gonna love that, too.

Ready to rout the neck pocket.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VnS8kzppWig/T3Np-_wswGI/AAAAAAAABJo/1Ef68ViLeAc/s640/100_0643.JPG

I start a little bit out from the corners, using a 1/2" forstner bit in my hand drill.
Then I hog out the rest.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FdaeBxU8-zk/T3NqvSpfcoI/AAAAAAAABJw/mnPwGh9MRIo/s640/100_0644.JPG

Many people have asked in other threads how they can determine the proper neck pocket depth. Here's how I do it.
This neck is 1 and 1/16" thick. A little thicker than standard. The height of my bridge saddle at it's lowest point, including the thickness of the bridge, is 5/16". If I subtract the height of my saddle at it's lowest point from the thickness of my neck, I get 12/16", or 3/4". That is the depth I routed my neck pocket to.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rI3tWDb_H3Q/T3NrNrWtShI/AAAAAAAABJ4/5JuxIAXuLsk/s640/100_0645.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-efXE2crtT1s/T3Nrwu2JdtI/AAAAAAAABKA/q3hNniU77kw/s640/100_0646.JPG

Not a bad fit. Just enough play to allow for finish.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RosTj6Q1wc0/T3Nsp__OgyI/AAAAAAAABKI/kdmg5vtHKBk/s640/100_0647.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-AlRthjfQoAY/T3Ntaev5NCI/AAAAAAAABKQ/OV5faN5M-QI/s640/100_0648.JPG

Next was drilling the neck attachment holes.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tBFzGsth-E8/T3Nt5P14fJI/AAAAAAAABKY/FrPIymr0SJk/s640/100_0649.JPG

You can see on my second hole(top right in the pic) the plate must have shifted without my knowing it. That hole's way off. Fortunes of war when drilling with a hand drill. Even Thing is only as good as the guy using him, lol. Plug that hole...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AZ-GoPqpIE8/T3NuonHPagI/AAAAAAAABKg/B4szDrVglKo/s640/100_0650.JPG

...and re-drill. Good to go.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TYyRbu0shgM/T3N3xdmScgI/AAAAAAAABKo/RJbYODPO6Z4/s640/100_0651.JPG

Next I'll attach the neck, locate and drill for the bridge mounting holes, drill for the bridge ground, and finally, drill for the output jack. Then it's on to final sanding, grain filler, and finish. Getting into the home stretch now.

Bolted the neck on earlier, and couldn't resist playing a little air guitar. Even fitted the strap buttons and slung it over my shoulder. Unfortunately, this led me in a direction I really did not want to go. But I really have to have a forearm contour on this guitar. I don't want one, but I need one.
I have some problems with my arms and shoulders, which I'll not go into here. Suffice it to say that without the forearm contour, I will not be able to play this guitar for any length of time. So even though I really do not like them on a tele, my body disagrees. It's necessary. I'll get on that as soon as i can.
To all of you who hate the forearm contour, I'm sorry to say I used to be one of you. Guess this old tiger needs to change his stripes.

I hear you on the contour, I find them very comfortable and I no longer have issues when I see one on a tele...I used to though :wink:

You make carving a neck look easy. We'll see.

Really like the fingerboard.

Bolted the neck on earlier, and couldn't resist playing a little air guitar. Even fitted the strap buttons and slung it over my shoulder. Unfortunately, this led me in a direction I really did not want to go. But I really have to have a forearm contour on this guitar. I don't want one, but I need one.
I have some problems with my arms and shoulders, which I'll not go into here. Suffice it to say that without the forearm contour, I will not be able to play this guitar for any length of time. So even though I really do not like them on a tele, my body disagrees. It's necessary. I'll get on that as soon as i can.
To all of you who hate the forearm contour, I'm sorry to say I used to be one of you. Guess this old tiger needs to change his stripes.

Do what you need to do brother. You'll get no grief here.

Barncaster.

Thanks for the support, MuzikP and Barncaster. Much appreciated.
You make carving a neck look easy. We'll see.

Really like the fingerboard.
Thanks, Nosmo.
And about carving a neck being easy, it's not. There are many things that can go wrong. And that maple's haaaard. It's definitely a workout. My legs are sore and stiff from carving that neck. I much prefer mahogany, LOL. But it's not rocket science, either. If the "we'll see" in your post means you have yet to carve one, rest assured, you can do it. If I can, anyone can (I know a lot of people say that, but in my case it's absolutely true).
Just go slow, don't get in a hurry. And think, think, think. And once you get the thickness you want, don't forget that center line. It sucks to carve through to the truss rod after doing all that work. Trust me, I know.

I think there's more than you think fully supporting the "arm contour" idea. And don't
worry, anyone who doesn't like it now, will eventualy....lol

Great work thus far.

I think there's more than you think fully supporting the "arm contour" idea. And don't
worry, anyone who doesn't like it now, will eventualy....lol

Great work thus far.

:lol:
Thanks, emoney.

Mike, I really like the work you're doing -- sorry to have
not commented on it before. You do great work with the
small set of tools you have. I like the methods you use,
and I also like your design choices.

It's very wise to add a forearm contour if it will make the
guitar more comfortable for you! I think we sometimes
forget that the top priority is a guitar that plays well,
sounds good, and is comfortable to play.

Oh, and I was impressed with that sanded-down inlay
dot repair! Especially the part about drill out the existing
hole with a hand-held drill.

Thanks for the support, MuzikP and Barncaster. Much appreciated.

Thanks, Nosmo.
And about carving a neck being easy, it's not. There are many things that can go wrong. And that maple's haaaard. It's definitely a workout. My legs are sore and stiff from carving that neck.

You carved it with your legs? :shock: You are awesome! :grin:

You carved it with your legs? :shock: You are awesome! :grin:

:lol::lol:
You'll find out what I'm talking about.:razz::wink:

Thanks, Flatfive. I've watched your builds alot as well. You're no slouch with tools. Or finding ways to use what you have the best you can.

OK, lets get this over with, LOL.
Here you see the forearm contour marked out.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tXXqZbTKccw/T3Surcmn6UI/AAAAAAAABK0/EGhC7mSL9ig/s640/100_0652.JPG

I started out with this little block plane.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_z3poE9YUsQ/T3SvRJi3lUI/AAAAAAAABK8/GvEt5yTiQFs/s640/100_0653.JPG

That was a little hard to push, so I decided this project needed what we call around here an attitude adjustment.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3Q1Tm1QIELk/T3SvwxZhHMI/AAAAAAAABLE/U8ajW5Lda1I/s640/100_0654.JPG

That's more like it.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zyF_goHnH0M/T3SwMGUo0WI/AAAAAAAABLM/FUHvW1qIwEc/s640/100_0655.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-S8yRenyH9UE/T3Sw7KC1sGI/AAAAAAAABLU/N6Q41dwT9Mc/s640/100_0656.JPG

I just love a nice, sharp plane.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RvN5W69nhpg/T3SxWvmsgjI/AAAAAAAABLc/Ccpq5ggFxAs/s640/100_0657.JPG

After roughing it out with the plane, I switch to the sander.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WWMIc5lXFXw/T3S2u9Y26KI/AAAAAAAABLk/kuSmw7lrVOU/s640/100_0658.JPG

The more I build guitars, the more I get preferences for the way I like to do certain things. The following is not a knock against the way anyone does this, it's just my preference.
I see a lot of guys doing forearm contours on belt sanders, and other ways as well. And I see a lot of flat forearm contours, with a sharp, clearly defined line across the top of the guitar where the contour starts. Nothing wrong with that, if that's what you like.
But when I do a forearm contour, I think more about a contour now. I don't like a flat, sharp angle. I prefer a gradually curving arch. If you look at the pic of the rough out with the hand plane, you'll see I already started on that arch with the plane. The sander just puts the finishing touches on it.
I also don't want that sharp corner where the top and the contour meet. I want to blend it softly into the top. Like this.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7epEKO3oo6Y/T3S29svjTPI/AAAAAAAABLs/cXWUnYXE9hI/s640/100_0659.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KQTz91SBpkE/T3S3VSoFY3I/AAAAAAAABL0/oCW_cyfzZ4g/s640/100_0660.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9fxhSkkys3M/T3S3ynuB33I/AAAAAAAABL8/q98foE7lUJ4/s640/100_0661.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-U7qpZ2c3hds/T3S4S_8tJ6I/AAAAAAAABME/fJZkMs8fBT8/s640/100_0662.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rhWN1RlpYf8/T3S4q3SB5wI/AAAAAAAABMM/IdM2sgO438Y/s640/100_0664.JPG

Great job on the contours, Mike. I'm with you-- I like a nice contoured..um.. contour :wink:

I'm with you-- I like a nice contoured..um.. contour :wink:

:lol::lol::lol:
Thanks, Roger.

This is looking really nice... the arm contour really helped to accent the natural grain of the wood... very nice

Now for the part I've been dreading since before I began this build; the string through holes.
Since I don't have a drill press, I have to do this by hand. Drilling through 1 and 3/4" of wood in a straight line, even with Thing to help me, is going to be near impossible. As will be countersinking the holes for the ferrules.
I start by bolting down the bridge plate. Then I drill, slowly and carefully, all the way through for the two E strings.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GeIFSLJ1nts/T3S8L_4bjmI/AAAAAAAABMU/_bja9Xs-UbU/s640/100_0665.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m7XwVjzkh0Q/T3S8pRm_JgI/AAAAAAAABMc/kWiuRf2-QCY/s640/100_0666.JPG

Then i put some tape on my drill bit, to mark approximately 1"...

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BefHWV2Wjzg/T3S8_6oYzSI/AAAAAAAABMk/QMxKBgMc2E4/s640/100_0667.JPG

And drill the other 4 holes to that approximate 1" depth...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r3zPJT-VR28/T3S9QmuAbPI/AAAAAAAABMs/xQy6DED73rI/s640/100_0668.JPG

...and remove the bridge plate.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-W6xSbQ2LwRo/T3S9jRzEdFI/AAAAAAAABM0/SyUaQvMXsFY/s640/100_0669.JPG

Nice job on the forearm contour. As you note, it's one of those things that people often have trouble getting to look right. Your right about what people tend to do wrong. Nothing hurts the look of a strat (or in this case tele) body more than one of those sharp, flat contours. (I've also seen examples where people do some kind of odd compound radius thing that also looks wrong). The look of a forearm contour is the most immediate thing that tells you whether someone knows what they're doing or whether (how to put this delicately) they are still honing their skills. :razz: You know what your doing and yours looks great.

It's great you describe the process to help others understand what's involved in getting it right. It's one of those things you don't (or at least I didn't the first time) appreciate until you try to do it yourself.

Ron Kirn has a invaluable tutorial on how to do it right if anyone is interested.

http://www.ronkirn.com/tutorial/strat_tutorial2.htm

Thanks, Matt.
As to Mr. Kirn, he is a consummate craftsman, especially when it comes to the finer details. One of the many fine things that sets him apart, IMHO.

To continue, I flip the body over. If I've drilled the two outer holes straight enough, I can locate the bridge plate by using two 3/16" bits, one in each hole. Like so.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wiC6X56BGP4/T3TAghIxGYI/AAAAAAAABM8/jmfrgJWaIGE/s640/100_0670.JPG

Then it's just a matter of drilling straight and true for one inch on this side...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lBqTj7swVfI/T3TA1-2TFII/AAAAAAAABNE/cwnDUYhFybg/s640/100_0671.JPG

....until the front and back holes meet each other.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4kkAGPUHyjs/T3TBbLkIf_I/AAAAAAAABNM/SNylBslqP8g/s640/100_0672.JPG

To drill the holes out to 5/16" for the ferrules, and then to countersink 3/8" for the flanges, I have to use twist drills. It would be impossible to center a forstner or brad point bit on 3/16" or 5/16" holes by hand without a drill press.
Here is the result of my first attempt.:roll:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ytmusfz_9oY/T3TByg-TwzI/AAAAAAAABNU/Cpe2AjrhUY8/s640/100_0673.JPG

As you can see, I messed up the two center holes. Truthfully, I got careless. I got the two outermost holes pretty good, and got over confident. Said to myself, "Gee, the bit seems to be centering on the holes well. I guess I really don't need Thing to finish these up." Beeep! Wrong answer!
But don't worry. I think I can make this go away and start fresh.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VGUrrYV5R1s/T3TCGJjUCPI/AAAAAAAABNc/qVxQ1MzORMs/s640/100_0674.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a2XCDxj-oNI/T3TCdpJvzwI/AAAAAAAABNk/UTusMVx5YL0/s640/100_0675.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZUjgcPaiZis/T3TDHfQuHkI/AAAAAAAABN0/JE-ZXJ_nIOA/s640/100_0677.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cdGLW94Iam4/T3TDfTeRhdI/AAAAAAAABN8/HrT9uCgoCnE/s640/100_0678.JPG

Once those dry, I'll carefully redrill. If I'm really blessed, you'll have to look really hard to even tell there was ever a plug there.

Moving on to the output jack, I first pilot drill with a small bit.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KN-xm_r7F8s/T3TIIYTWTnI/AAAAAAAABOM/NKaG2uzkvWo/s640/100_0680.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4MutMyLqq7E/T3TIgkpewaI/AAAAAAAABOU/Kf7FiogQnkw/s640/100_0681.JPG

Then chuck a 7/8" spade bit in my drill. Don't have a 7/8" forstner. It's on my list, lol.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WIJfOARc4LM/T3TK45BIRZI/AAAAAAAABOc/Ogu2vd5CL4Y/s640/100_0682.JPG

A little ugly, but it'll work, and the plate will cover it.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-peM2K1ebubM/T3TLLmuz4BI/AAAAAAAABOk/H6YHyHx-ip0/s640/100_0683.JPG

I use a 12" bit to drill for the string ground.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-K6lvHwDmwHI/T3TLg0j2slI/AAAAAAAABOs/PUKXp52Ribc/s640/100_0684.JPG

Since the gap isn't that large here, I probably could've used a short bit, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9DMvg-d6fiY/T3TLzpNNEWI/AAAAAAAABO0/QxGibtOSmH8/s640/100_0685.JPG

And finally, I finished the string through holes.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PC1VsqWE6eU/T3TMJCJlgeI/AAAAAAAABO8/6IgpWmEyGbw/s640/100_0687.JPG

Best I could do. I think it'll work just fine once the ferrules are in place.
That's it. This guitar is now ready for final sanding, and then we'll proceed to grain filling, and on to finish. Thanks for watching.

The string-through holes are tough, especially with a hand drill. You've done an admirable job, Mike. Proof that it can be done if you take your time and reasonable precautions.

Lookin' good Mike! What's for pickups?

Barncaster

Thanks, guys.
Roger, my mistake was trying to set the ferrules in flush. Not a good idea with a hand drill. The next time I do this, I'll leave the flanges proud of the back of the guitar. I think the vintage ones were recessed and most of the modern ones aren't. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong on that, lol. I've a good mind to plug every single hole, go back and do that anyway. I think I could do better. But I'll have to think about that a while, first.
Barncaster, I'm gonna use these.

http://www.guitarfetish.com/assets/images/thumbs/visphuclfest.jpg

They look like the originals, but fit a standard humbucker rout. I know they won't sound like the original Wide Range Humbucker, but from what I hear, Fender's version doesn't, either. It'll at least give me the look.
And if the GFS pickups I've tried so far are any indication, I expect they'll sound real good.

Thanks, guys.
Roger, my mistake was trying to set the ferrules in flush. Not a good idea with a hand drill. The next time I do this, I'll leave the flanges proud of the back of the guitar. I think the vintage ones were recessed and most of the modern ones aren't. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong on that, lol. I've a good mind to plug every single hole, go back and do that anyway. I think I could do better. But I'll have to think about that a while, first.
Barncaster, I'm gonna use these.

They look like the originals, but fit a standard humbucker rout. I know they won't sound like the original Wide Range Humbucker, but from what I hear, Fender's version doesn't, either. It'll at least give me the look.
And if the GFS pickups I've tried so far are any indication, I expect they'll sound real good.

PLEASE let us know how those GFS wide rangers are, I'm curious about them and you can't beat the price. Was gonna pick up some for a future build.

PLEASE let us know how those GFS wide rangers are, I'm curious about them and you can't beat the price. Was gonna pick up some for a future build.
Will do. Actually, you'll be able to hear them on the youtube video, assuming the finish cures in time. But I'll give my impressions of them when the build is done, regardless.

Dang. Some of you guys are fast. I'm still working on my neck and have done very little on the body so far. Oh well.

I'm digging this one a lot. Nice clean work, especially on the neck. Hope you're happy with it in the end and the finish is up to snuff like you want it.

Wasn't quite sure whether or not I'd like the look of the Padauk when I ordered it, but the longer I look at it the more I grow to really love the look. And if it goes golden mahogany-like later, I think I'm gonna love that, too.

oxblood is probably the best description of the color. the neck looks great. interesting pickups too.

This thing is coming along very nicely and I, too, am looking forward to hearing your take
on that GFS p'up. BTW, Harbor Freight just listed a set of Forstner bits on sale for
$7.99 and it includes a 7/8" bit.

Thanks a lot, guys.
Devo Stevo, I don't have any worries about finish other than it curing in time for the deadline. The finish will work out fine, but I won't compromise it just to meet the deadline. Either it cures in time or it doesn't. I'll wait until it's cured, regardless(but I'm crossing my fingers once the last coat goes on.:lol:) But I think I'll make it in time.
Volowv, oxblood sounds sweet to me. The wood looks really good now. I can't imagine it'll look bad, whatever shade it reaches.
Emoney, thanks. Good ole HF! A 7/8" forstner locally is around $11(Porter Cable brand). 7.99 for the set sounds pretty good, assuming I don't already have most of the others. I'll look it up.

Hey, Mike, you're doing an impressive job!

You might have better luck when you counter-bore for the ferrule holes if you treat the pilot (through holes) with a light touch of a sharp countersink. A twist drill's cutting angle is more prone to tear the surface wood fibers than a countersink and with a handheld drill, a slight countersink on the wood surface will also help stop surface tearout from the inevitable contact with the side of the rotating bit that occurs with hand-held.

Thanks for the comments, and the tip. I'll definitely remember that for the future.

Then chuck a 7/8" spade bit in my drill. Don't have a 7/8" forstner. It's on my list, lol.



Lowe's has this set for 20$, includes 7/8 and serves me well. LINK (http://www.lowes.com/pd_95059-70-PC1008_0__?productId=3047788&Ntt=forstner+bit&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dforstner%2Bbit&facetInfo=). One of the best deals on the planet :grin:

I like how your arm contour came out. I am getting ready to cut one for the first time and I feel a little better about trying now.

Well, i went back, plugged those holes, and redrilled for the ferrules to sit proud of the back. There were a couple of "issues" that I just didn't like. Firstly, I did not like the very small amount of wood left between the holes. I actually had a small chunk of it come off just sanding the guitar. Not acceptable. Also, and even more importantly, my 3/8" plug cutter is absolute junk. It cuts a tapered plug, but the plug is slightly too big. Good enough for shallow holes, but the more I looked at the holes I had plugged and drilled, the more I did not like what I saw.
The ferrule holes will bear all of the "weight" of the tension of the strings when at pitch, and they must bear that for the life of the guitar. The only acceptable alternative I had was to use something that I knew would fit the holes, and seat at the bottom properly. So I plugged them with 3/8" poplar dowel rod. Ideally, I would have liked to have used ash, but this is a structural issue, so I used what I knew would get the job done right.
I think this will work much better. I also think that, once the ferrules are in place, it'll be hard to even notice.
Oh, and R. Stratenstein. Thanks for the tip. It worked quite well. Much appreciated.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-adFTWrQ7Mjg/T3Y0i5FZkLI/AAAAAAAABPE/EWhxgkS7fVU/s640/100_0688.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QhA51MohddA/T3Y01SWaSsI/AAAAAAAABPM/nydyqhkUDpo/s640/100_0689.JPG

Time to fill the grain.
I've only ever used one thing as a grain filler. CA(super glue). And that was on a mahogany neck. I've never worked with an open grain wood like ash for building guitar bodies. Always stuck with closed grain woods for ease of finish. But this ash was too cheap to pass up, and I figured I needed to get my hand in on this kind of thing eventually, anyway.
I'm using Timbermate grain filler from StewMac. Seems easy enough. Just brush on, first with the grain, then against it...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6A_JWyb7ieQ/T3ozXtOwPSI/AAAAAAAABPY/VgyEl-HqSeQ/s640/100_0690.JPG

...then scrape off the excess at a 45 degree angle to the grain.....

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TDGa0TAlgB8/T3oznc-FiSI/AAAAAAAABPg/SEGkFtojnGU/s640/100_0691.JPG

...and sand it off until it remains only in the grain.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-b-J-boqxeN0/T3oz3bvBwSI/AAAAAAAABPo/cf4e8U21yKA/s640/100_0692.JPG

Repeat on the front.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-W7Bu8osahWk/T3o0T8-LSdI/AAAAAAAABP4/a5ZCd_IiMxg/s640/100_0694.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xdh6Oi5BKUo/T3o0mLwr6bI/AAAAAAAABQA/azlb-O0N1oA/s640/100_0695.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qMyGTpiisaM/T3o07rUYqBI/AAAAAAAABQI/Vl-oYrzJHN8/s640/100_0696.JPG

I did this twice on the front and back, and 3 times on the sides.
I think that it did a good job The grain looks filled to me, but of course, I'll know more once I start shooting nitro.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-C4zh6FpDyWM/T3o1Pb7ROMI/AAAAAAAABQQ/p0nIQxAbcdM/s640/100_0701.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WvYd9tYieXI/T3o0D5AggvI/AAAAAAAABPw/jyE2BUgYbGg/s640/100_0693.JPG

Good job on the ferrule holes. Looks like they cleaned up rather nicely. As a matter of fact, everything looks rather nice. All the contours and lines are very clean.

Thanks, Roger. Getting those ferrule holes right were my biggest fear. They came out well enough for what I had to work with. Can't wait to start laying on finish!

I'm dreading the ferrule holes, too. But I also have Thing in my arsenal.

I'm dreading the ferrule holes, too. But I also have Thing in my arsenal.
Thing is one of my very best friends!
Go slow on the two outer holes. Get them as straight as you can, then do what I did. You can do it.

Put the first coats of finish on the neck and body today.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j_EXtSJHQwo/T3x5UWjxdOI/AAAAAAAABQc/Stw8NzS0bX0/s512/100_0704.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EOSrrdyXCWU/T3x50EanrSI/AAAAAAAABQk/2w83wVoryGU/s512/100_0705.JPG
Got a little bit of birdseye in the headstock, and one or two along the length of the back of the neck. Nothing to write home about, however. But I think I'm gonna like the look of the neck once I get more finish on it.
Some shots of the body

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RzEJ1RSdBkc/T3x6yaoXKnI/AAAAAAAABQ0/PPAM6wNKwc8/s512/100_0707.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3ZfKfwGdm90/T3x7lJPEgII/AAAAAAAABQ8/K2ZSToZilJQ/s512/100_0708.JPG

It appears the grain filler has done it's job. I'll update with mor e pics as this progresses.

You are making good progress Mike.

Thanks, Glen. I hope so. All depends on how quickly this finish stage goes.

Got a little bit of birdseye in the headstock, and one or two along the length of the back of the neck. Nothing to write home about, however. But I think I'm gonna like the look of the neck once I get more finish on it.


Humm!! Why don't you send me that neck...you know just for an inspection and second opinion. I promise to send it back...really I do.

Humm!! Why don't you send me that neck...you know just for an inspection and second opinion. I promise to send it back...really I do.
LOL. Sorry, it's got too much wet lacquer on it to touch it, much less pack it for shipment.:smile:
Got another coat of lacquer on the neck and body. Unfortunately, I'm out of time to work on this today, so two coats are all I get on her for now. Hopefully I'll have time to lay more on tomorrow.

Really sweet! :smile:

Really sweet! :smile:
Thanks!

....
Got a little bit of birdseye in the headstock, and one or two along the length of the back of the neck. Nothing to write home about, however. But I think I'm gonna like the look of the neck once I get more finish on it.


I think I like the look of it now! :grin:

Sprayed the final coats of lacquer today. Here are a few pics, though they'll pretty much look like the last ones I posted.:smile:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2UeWlVf6yHo/T34noYgxveI/AAAAAAAABRk/EtLS_MRQCvg/s512/100_0715.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tdbYBP6ZNmw/T34oVyDbeKI/AAAAAAAABR0/FtLy-srQgB4/s512/100_0717.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Pl-XI2YI_g4/T34prfA44xI/AAAAAAAABSE/p-w-7AwU5t8/s512/100_0719.JPG

Now it's a waiting game.

I am lovig this build! I love that a lot of the builders do some really out-there stuff every year, but as a traditionalist I enjoy watching something more vintage-style get build. Plus, I always think the simple vintage ones look best when they're done. Great job so far!

I've never had lacquer cure this fast. Sprayed the final coat on the 5th, and it was cured 3 days ago. I just haven't had the time to jump back into this until now.
I start with the wet sanding. I use the top off of a plastic box a Seymour Duncan humbucker came in for a sanding block.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k9bqco0ez04/T437gbNoPJI/AAAAAAAABUg/KiiSZqriXgM/s640/100_0738.JPG

The goal is to block sand the surface until it is level. It is level when all of the shiny spots, like these....

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iXmmqVOXKB0/T437wIEB2QI/AAAAAAAABUo/UN-m_jBFN4E/s640/100_0740.JPG

...are gone. We want the whole surface of the guitar to be nice and matte, like this area is.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6IRuKrLC1Ow/T438YAji8JI/AAAAAAAABU4/EdBABI0z30U/s640/100_0744.JPG

Once that's done, I break out my little 6" buffer I got from one of those auto parts places.....

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vpVAg542t9U/T44BnLZO3kI/AAAAAAAABVQ/cAnSQSz1KOQ/s640/100_0757.JPG

...and buff away, until I get this:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6CkoWNdWHsM/T44B6GVemPI/AAAAAAAABVY/WaGBOJxWSHs/s640/100_0761.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OCddl8CMBlI/T44COSeo-VI/AAAAAAAABVg/fk6-8huRhpo/s640/100_0763.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wwDouqMDnaE/T44ClwjdVDI/AAAAAAAABVo/yZAQpKjcTPo/s640/100_0764.JPG

Same thing with the neck.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5wskdAy6HD0/T44ENdGnBbI/AAAAAAAABVw/dKLZtXlCwls/s640/100_0749.JPG

I like to start with the back of the headstock. No matter where you start, you keep at it until the whole neck is level sanded to a nice matte, like the back of the headstock here.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hGT0rss6nf4/T44EpInR1EI/AAAAAAAABV4/Upyaj5m8DYk/s640/100_0750.JPG\

Then it's on to the buffer again.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JMRq1JsaLqk/T4388HFLhvI/AAAAAAAABVI/nxE1VnlePCs/s640/100_0751.JPG

And, the result.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6J9Tx0wZO6o/T44F_vmTT1I/AAAAAAAABWQ/KJ0RDuikV80/s640/100_0767.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_ns7YhAEXSQ/T44FreQ8oHI/AAAAAAAABWI/krb9nhahYR8/s640/100_0766.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qJ5g2i3lLNE/T44FRN8egtI/AAAAAAAABWA/j5yOlehf-v4/s640/100_0765.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5QpCrMzkYSY/T44GztT0F5I/AAAAAAAABWg/FLTaRrRDkGk/s640/100_0769.JPG

Very nice. You can throw out your mirrors now too!

Very nice. You can throw out your mirrors now too!
LOL!
Thanks. I love the way lacquer buffs out nice and glassy.

Wow, that looks really nice!
What grit did you use for the wet sanding?

Thanks. I used 400 on the body, 600 on the neck. It's what I had on hand. Ran out of 400, went to 600. I know a lot of guys start with 400 or 600, and move on through the grits to 1500 or 2000(or finer), but I've been finishing this way for 3 years, and never had a single problem. The 400/600 works just fine. I go from there straight to the buffer.

Very nice, Mike. That's a terrific finish.

Mike, you mentioned the lacquer you're using dried a lot quicker than what you're used to.
What kind did you use this time if I may ask?

A really cool finish on a very sweet build! :grin:, but then again, I've got a thing for paduak :wink:


Dave

Mike, you mentioned the lacquer you're using dried a lot quicker than what you're used to.
What kind did you use this time if I may ask?
Believe it or not, it's Deft aerosol. I've used it before, and it usually takes about 5-6 weeks to cure, and then it's still soft for months after that. But this stuff is rock hard. I can't press a thumbnail into it, and it gives a nice, sharp rap when you tap on it. The only thing I changed was my spraying schedule.
Usually with lacquer I spray as many coats in a day as I can get on the instrument, and then let that cure until it's ready. This time, I used the "rule of threes". Three coats a day, three hours apart for each, for at least 3 days, depending on the number of coats you're looking for. If this is the result, I'm sold on that technique.
The best thing I can figure is that the rule of 3 allowed the lacquer to off-gas a whole lot better than what it does with my standard procedure. I'll be following it from now on.
I think I just learned a lesson that I keep learning over and over again: There's a reason for rules.
Experience is one of the best teachers, so I learn by doing. But it's usually a lot better to learn from other folks' experiences as well. That rule of threes is there for a reason. I'm so glad this old dog decided to try something new.

So I've been thinking with the wood combo on this guitar a tort guard would look great. The pickguard material arrived today, so....

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-DadWn5bnj-0/T5CjDs0v0zI/AAAAAAAABW4/gwCK2-3SQXE/s640/100_0774.JPG

Flip the material over and fasten the template down with double stick tape(so I can flip it over when it's all done and bevel the edges).

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3FRQpvbrRZA/T5CjakyJLeI/AAAAAAAABXA/4EKfj_ysNHU/s640/100_0775.JPG

Rough cut with the jig saw.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4Nw72hvaWsQ/T5CkClY31uI/AAAAAAAABXI/UAr3z6dF-VU/s512/100_0776.JPG

And here it is trimmed to the template, and all holes drilled.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-YDuiBiIg7Dk/T5CkcgOnxOI/AAAAAAAABXQ/ja7XPVttrkY/s512/100_0777.JPG

Chuck a 45 degree bit in the router...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-B4dzUouOuZQ/T5Ck7yk5OgI/AAAAAAAABXY/D78UjUd_Mno/s640/100_0778.JPG

...and the completed guard.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SL3h8l05NZo/T5ClOWVPa8I/AAAAAAAABXg/yic90MF2BK0/s512/100_0779.JPG

I think that'll look nice.

Oh, man, I love the PG!!!

Thanks. I'm hoping that it will kind of set off the natural finished ash along with the padauk 'board. If nothing else, it should kind of warm things up a little.

I think that PG looks great!

I'm a fan of Tort. Nice job.

Hey Git,

Love the old school tortoise shell!

Barncaster

Thanks for the compliments on the tort, guys. I'm a sucker for tort. I've got a tort guard on my favorite strat, which is kind of why I was going to go with black on this one. But the more I thought about it, the more I realized this guitar is almost made for a tort guard.
I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out. It's only the second pickguard I've cut, so I know I will improve as I do more.
Waiting on parts for now. More to come.

This one's really gonna look classy, and I think the vintage design and details will hold its own with the many out-there builds this year. Looking forward to seeing it finished.

Thanks, Chillman. I really like this guitar so far.
Started on the nut work today. Sized and inserted a nut blank in the nut slot.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u3Zwdcs5HKg/T5xkFLF2PqI/AAAAAAAABYM/DpyngXHUkn0/s640/100_0784.JPG

I marked the height of the fret and the radius on the blank using a half pencil.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WWe8vts9KmI/T5xkSpk1KrI/AAAAAAAABYU/wW1mqrJp3SQ/s640/100_0785.JPG

Then placed it in a vise.....

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-L4vNbGBIwgQ/T5xkfy-UVzI/AAAAAAAABYc/izfIVEssgqs/s640/100_0786.JPG

....and using a large bastard file...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PP7oN_xY2fw/T5xksy3T5YI/AAAAAAAABYk/bwL-cxpFiK4/s640/100_0787.JPG

...I filed it down close to that line, making sure I followed the fret radius.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UYpzbUbfcNU/T5xk_FYfpzI/AAAAAAAABYs/WLYnK5owmuA/s640/100_0788.JPG

After that, i marked the individual string locations.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--5rNqCZ9BiI/T5xlKVvRu-I/AAAAAAAABY0/z9Uh71digt0/s640/100_0789.JPG

As a general rule, most start by marking the outer strings. Standard is 1/8" from the edge of the fretboard. I like to mark the low E 3/16 in, and the high e 1/8". I like a little more room for the low E. My preference.
Moving on from there, I use a .010" razor saw to start each string slot...
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z9z2VgVM0LU/T5xlV6Eog1I/AAAAAAAABY8/UGBiUdJ_LEE/s640/100_0790.JPG

. then string it up, and, moving each individual string aside as I work, I start filing the slots with nut files.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Sfn3xPzT0OI/T5xlp0G51QI/AAAAAAAABZE/spBwg-WdqqY/s640/100_0791.JPG

I press the string down at the third fret, and look at the height of the string off of the second fret. I don't have a set height, I just eyeball it until it looks right to me, but I would guess that I leave an .008" - .010" gap above the string at the 2nd fret.
Here it is with all the slots cut.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nq4LDPCPrng/T5xmFrcF89I/AAAAAAAABZU/S7AASXFcXQw/s640/100_0793.JPG

And after filing it down so that there is approximately half of the wound strings buried in the slots, and the unwound a full string depth. Again, approximately. From there I smoothed and polished with fine sandpaper.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rgY_lz7hAks/T5xmTKCcOxI/AAAAAAAABZc/eD1G25K_3sM/s640/100_0794.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-myOGyII0mYo/T5xmgHYRYRI/AAAAAAAABZk/L-IWXYC7dX8/s640/100_0795.JPG

Awesome work Mike, looks sweet! That Deft lacquer seems to be the bomb. Did you use a rattle can or spray gun? I have some on the way.

Thanks, Axedaddy.
I used the Deft rattle can.
As to it's cure time, I think the process is key. I've used it several times before, and it always took a really long time to cure. The rule of threes I mentioned earlier seems to have made all the difference.
Good luck with yours as well. I hope you have as good and quick an experience as I have.

O.K., time for a level and crown. I normally would do this before stringing the instrument up and cutting a nut, but it's really no big deal.
This is how I do this if I choose not to remove a neck, or on a set neck instrument.
The very first thing I do is to tape a piece of paper over the pickups. This is to keep metal shavings out of the pickups. The magnet wire and pole pieces will pull all the metal shavings right to the pickup, and you'll never get them all out of those pickups.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pDH6Jd2c39s/T6VsAVPxtmI/AAAAAAAABZ0/l32Bu5CWzg8/s640/100_0797.JPG

Then I mark the tops of each fret with black marker.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-R9QiqpqH40Y/T6Vsiu8xs7I/AAAAAAAABZ8/kC5t5U0K5vk/s640/100_0798.JPG

I am using a nice, flat plane with some 320 glued to the sole to level the frets.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6LY_NbJxdOs/T6Vt2wiyZwI/AAAAAAAABaM/oPhCh_9ZZtc/s640/100_0800.JPG

That's a paint roller refill under the neck. Works just fine, and a lot less expensive than StewMac's neck rest.
I move the plane across the frets until the black marker has been removed from the tops of all the frets.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qgJTnMMNrpM/T6VuRKGGytI/AAAAAAAABaU/lYs2RaJhmJU/s640/100_0801.JPG

Once all the frets are level, I remark the tops of the frets, and, using a crowning file, begin to crown the tops of the frets.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7-lDAv0hlvU/T6VunfLtRYI/AAAAAAAABac/ngDtggzNcx0/s640/100_0802.JPG

I stop the crowning process when there is a nice, slim line of marker left on the top of each fret. This ensures that the fret has remained level, and that the side are shaped properly.....

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r_0-LdblyWk/T6VvCn1uXDI/AAAAAAAABak/_79VUDJprO8/s640/100_0803.JPG

... so that by wrapping a piece of that same 320 around my finger, I can move the paper across each fret until it comes to a nice, smooth, rounded crown.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-63R8-yne4DA/T6VvZRyOQHI/AAAAAAAABas/Ggbm7s4HccU/s640/100_0804.JPG

I like to use my finger for a couple of reasons. First, it's round, like the fret tops are supposed to be. So i can start on one side of the fret, and move over to the other side and get a nice roundover of the fret top.
It will also conform itself very readily(it is a finger, you know) to the radius of the fret/fretboard.
Once this is done, I take a 3-corner file on which I have ground one of the edges safe, and slightly round off the corners of the fret ends, so that the feel is nice and smooth.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Cw2p7gh94Ic/T6Vv0P8xFMI/AAAAAAAABa0/QmDyY-9BkDY/s640/100_0805.JPG

I finish off with steel wool to polish.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-U8MuHrOGxTs/T6VwHW8OwBI/AAAAAAAABa8/uLTTk2Rtayk/s640/100_0806.JPG

And, the finished product.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZflZFQAcTos/T6VwaB0G2QI/AAAAAAAABbE/EQ2paxX2X9U/s640/100_0807.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-94Im3MNaIto/T6Vwqe5gF4I/AAAAAAAABbM/20lwPAubgtQ/s640/100_0808.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YMmfJw7ZL_A/T6VxDQYEF-I/AAAAAAAABbU/nGTXyfRNu-0/s640/100_0809.JPG

Can you tell where the pickup is?

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-VGKhFfqyAkA/T6VxTeQt8gI/AAAAAAAABbc/WHZR74eTxyQ/s640/100_0810.JPG

This is why you put the paper down. That would be all over your pickups. Use caution when removing the paper. Pull it straight up and then away. Any sideways movement while those shavings are still under the pull of the magnet/polepieces will result in all your caution being for naught.
Since this was a very easy fret dress, and I removed very little metal because the frets were pretty close before I started, I won't need to re-file the nut slots. If I had taken a lot off, I'd have gone back and done that.
As you can probably see, the pickguard is attached and the guitar is basically assembled.
However, I have not wired pickups/pots/switch yet, because I don't have the switch yet. I'm waiting on the switch and string trees, and this build will be done. You'll forgive me, but I won't be showing completed pics until it's actually completed.
Thanks for looking. More to come.

Nice work on the neck Mike, The rest of it looks pretty cool too.!:lol::cool:

Thanks, junk mutt.

I love that fingerboard!

I love that fingerboard!
Thanks, Glen. I think I've really grown fond of Padauk as a fretboard wood. It looks good, and it works really well. I prefer it's working characteristics over rosewood or ebony.

Thanks for explaining how you do the nut and frets. Great job on a beautiful guitar.

Thanks, BRO6623. And you're welcome.

Great fret work, Mike. That's as good as it gets!

I think I've really grown fond of Padauk as a fretboard wood. It looks good, and it works really well. I prefer it's working characteristics over rosewood or ebony

And your really going to enjoy playing it :wink:

Switch arrived Wednesday. Unfortunately, StewMac screwed up my order. They sent me string ferrules instead of string retainers. Had to wait until Thursday before I could get out to the music store and get a decent set of string trees.
After that, it was on to wiring up and assembly and set up. Here are some shots of the completed build, for anyone still interested.
In the case:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vx8Vln8CB_w/T60_--z5ozI/AAAAAAAABbo/qBYwA13JACw/s640/100_0816.JPG

A shot of the back

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PCiq9Tbk7_g/T61A0oRbpvI/AAAAAAAABbw/_762T0gJ6fQ/s640/100_0826.JPG

End grain.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-fX94IXxTJGE/T61Be8WXxiI/AAAAAAAABb4/uUS8vmWZzTc/s640/100_0827.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-EnSqjEicjw4/T61CG6NYuSI/AAAAAAAABcA/FDKL-MhRb0E/s512/100_0828.JPG

beautiful!

Random shots.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vncc82ZiWzM/T61CrPg6tsI/AAAAAAAABcI/rwZhfiOILs0/s640/100_0829.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-o8P7qfOSNjQ/T61DT3cZ7rI/AAAAAAAABcQ/s2CEs-q61X0/s640/100_0830.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-sk-v6CbfPZQ/T61EJwashaI/AAAAAAAABcY/LhPLCySxE_Q/s640/100_0831.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_Rq1BSqW3Bo/T61ExN4cW2I/AAAAAAAABcg/mzMumSzwpHQ/s512/100_0832.JPG

Great work, Mike!

Hey Mike,

It looks spectacular! I'm a BIG fan of the wide range humbuckers. Not everyone knows that Seth Lover designed them too. Can't wait to hear it.

Rob

Thanks, Alex, RogerC and Barncaster!
One more pass.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9688ar3ySOc/T61FO1B5z5I/AAAAAAAABco/mxg3oNUqTRA/s640/100_0833.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E_qvMlSM1k4/T61GAUq1XjI/AAAAAAAABcw/Eat3jW0yl4s/s640/100_0834.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jSjEPYDNF7A/T61GY0PXTyI/AAAAAAAABc4/i1tcfhA_6PI/s640/100_0835.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RBwmA0r_MRA/T61Gz7fqu4I/AAAAAAAABdA/tE495SpvB9U/s640/100_0836.JPG

Love this guitar already. Those of you wanting to know about the pickups, I couldn't be more pleased with them. They have a nice, full, fat tone that will lend themselves to just about any type of music I would care to play. Weight is 8 lbs. Slightly on the heavy side, but balance is pretty even.
Haven't got my webcam installed yet, so video is forthcoming as soon as I've got that taken care of.
Also, we were asked to include a final pic that we would prefer as representative of our guitar's best qualities in the final post with the vid, to be used in the thread that will include all of the builds in this Challenge. Of those posted, I'd appreciate anyone's opinions/suggestions of a representative pic for this build. .

Looks AWESOME! Great work!

The guitar looks great!!! Those pics look nice 'n shady 'n comfy.

Those pics look nice 'n shady 'n comfy.\
Yeah, the shade's nice. But sometimes I stress out over it, especially in storms or high winds.

I kinda like this one (except for the plastic bag), but it's a shame to not include that headstock design in the final photo. Your headstock is awesome.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vncc82ZiWzM/T61CrPg6tsI/AAAAAAAABcI/rwZhfiOILs0/s640/100_0829.JPG

It's digital right, go take some more pics, just pay attention to what you can see in the background before you click. The guitar is beautiful and you can't have too many pictures of a beautiful guitar...right?

I kinda like this one (except for the plastic bag)
LOL. The plastic bag is actually a tarp covering my wife's old powered wheelchair. It went down on us, and we had nowhere else to put it but on the porch. But you are right. When I saw that pic, I went,"Doh!"
...but it's a shame to not include that headstock design in the final photo. Your headstock is awesome.
Thanks! That's kind of the problem I'm having, too. I'd like to find a photo tht includes the entire guitar, but I'm having a hard time finding one like that that I like.

It's digital right, go take some more pics, just pay attention to what you can see in the background before you click.[?QUOTE]
This seems like the way I need to go.
[QUOTE=Muzikp;4154923] The guitar is beautiful and you can't have too many pictures of a beautiful guitar...right?
Again, thanks a lot for the compliments.

Sweet guitar, great job! :wink:


Dave

Great looking guitar. Super finish. It's nice to see fellow tele players that are not religious traditionalists about the contours on a tele issue.

When they said to pick one final picture I really wanted to use scatterlee's from last year :grin: Of course my bass doesn't look anything like an acrylic guitar.

I thought we all learned to watch what was in our pics after crazydave posted a close up of his junk :lol:

I thought we all learner to watch what was in our pics after crazydave posted a close up of his junk :lol:

LOL. Kinda glad I missed that.
Seriously, though, I kinda get lost in trying to make sure the guitar is centered in the pic, focus is good, angle, etc. Not a pro(obviously), so I often make the rookie mistake of concentrating on the foreground, and missing what's beyond. It happens. But, since I'm not a pro, if the picture's good, I'm not throwing it out because I missed what's in the background. Still, I gotta work on that.

LOL. Kinda glad I missed that.
Seriously, though, I kinda get lost in trying to make sure the guitar is centered in the pic, focus is good, angle, etc. Not a pro(obviously), so I often make the rookie mistake of concentrating on the foreground, and missing what's beyond. It happens. But, since I'm not a pro, if the picture's good, I'm not throwing it out because I missed what's in the background. Still, I gotta work on that.

I'm notorious for doing that also, though in my case it has a lot to do with the (lack of) cleanliness of my shop but I digress.

Anyway, I was once told that I should look through the viewfinder and find one thing I could do to make the picture better. When I do that, more often than not I end up moving a power cord, trying a different angle, or whatever. It helps.

Love the finish!!! And this is my favorite fretboard!!! Nice!!!

Thanks, guys!

Alright. Got my camera connected. It's cheap(as in it fell apart about 5 times before I got it connected cheap), so the actual video quality isn't what I'd like, but it's not too bad. The audio was recorded from the line out on the back of my amp, straight into my mixer, and then straight to the computer. The only effects are some dirt and the reverb on the amp.
As for the contents of the video, it's just me jamming. One take, mistakes included.
It's also 3:56 long. Sorry for that, but this guitar makes it real easy to jam along and forget how long you've been playing.:mrgreen:
FI2_afy_OUM

And here is the pic asked for.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-67jK2e8mqKo/T67zP-pLqRI/AAAAAAAABeA/4q08bhe5Gl0/s640/100_0847.JPG

It's been a blast, as was the last one. Congrats to all the participants. You all got great looking guitars. It's an honor and a privilege to build alongside you all. May the best Tele win!
Paul, you have an email at webmaster@geartalknet.com. The original link in your thread asking for notice of completion opened up Outlook Express. I do not use it. I'm on yahoo. When I sent an email to webmaster@tdpri.com through yahoo, I got a failure notice, so I sent it to the email link you get when you click on someone's username in a thread.