czook's 2012 Challenge Build Thread -- COMPLETED

Throwing my hat in for my first builder challenge. Not a beginner, but I am a rookie, :lol:

Good luck, Rookie. :wink:

Welcome and good luck! :grin:

Dave

With only 1.5 guitars under my belt, I'm a rookie too, so I bid you a hearty Good Luck!

Thanks all for the encouragement. I have never built a neck, so that will be a little scary, but I have leveled quite a few, so I know the last step ;)

My wood. 5/4 Flamed Maple for neck. Log of Poplar for body and Flamed Maple Laminate.

i'll be tuning in zook!

One of the first things I have to do is carve the slice of body off of the log. It has been cut and laying around for a year, so I will have some kiln (kitchen oven) time to season the wood so the checking is held to a minimum.

If it is too bad and I have to fill too much I plan to laminate the top and maybe the front and back with binding. I will probably bind it regardless just because I like to do it and like the look of it.

Very cool Czook.

How hard, or soft is that poplar log?

Tabdog

Not real hard, but hard enough to hold screws. I made a Jag body a couple weeks ago out of a similar one and it is surprisingly hard for poplar/cottonwood.

My challenge will be drying it enough to prevent future cracking and checking. The Jag blank I made is stable and is not cracking except for when I initially dried it in my kiln, which are small and easily filled.

Once I have it carved out while still in log form with a router and then slice it off with a chainsaw I will put it in the oven for a day or so and let it sit for a few weeks before I finish rout it. I will need that time to carve a neck anyway.

That sounds like a pretty unique technique. Holy crap I used a Q in two words in a row! I wish I was playing scrabble. Oh, sorry my mind kind of wandered there. That is some nice looking wood you have. I can't wait to see what you build.

I found this log/wedge along a mud road last week where some trees had been cleared about a year ago. Though it is dry on the surface once I cut the body slab off it will be fairly green, so I will be using unique technique to dry it.

24 hours in a convection oven at 218f. :)

Good luck with the makeshift kiln; I'll be eager to see how it works. If that log survives uncracked, it'll make a beautiful body.

I'll have it sliced and planed to a little over 2" before it goes into the oven, but I may have to name it the 'CrackCaster'.

I'll have it sliced and planed to a little over 2" before it goes into the oven, but I may have to name it the 'CrackCaster'.

I had a really nice birch burl I tried to dry.Built a box to go over the heat duct.Didn't work very well.I hope you have better luck!:grin:

Starting shaping the body log this morning using chainsaw, hammer and wedge.

Damn man that redefines the term "rough cut", Impressive, my hat is off to you! . Cant wait to see how this evolves. Keep up the good work.

Good luck, Chuck. I'll be watching this one. Maybe I'll have the stones to throw my hat in the ring next year. Until then, I'll live vicariously through you.:lol:

Planed the top a bit to see what I have for grain pattern, knots, & defects.

I don't think we ever seen a chainsaw used in the contest before
Bodacious!

refined it a bit, now I am to the point where I have to be careful not to go too thin anywhere.

I don't think we ever seen a chainsaw used in the contest before
Bodacious!

Perhaps I misunderstood 'starting from scratch' :lol:

Hmmph. If you were using obsidian tools, then I'd be impressed...

Just kidding. I'm still curious to see you cook this, though. Can't wait to see how that goes.

That is some amazing figure, should be sweet!

Perhaps I misunderstood 'starting from scratch' :lol:
Oh yeah? Well I just planted my trees for the 2040 challenge :lol:

That is some amazing figure, should be sweet!

That's no joke!

It's been in the oven 4 hours. Will leave it in till morning and see how it's doing, but so far so good. No cracking, checking or ...

I have had it at 180 but am turning it up to 215 for the rest of the night. It is still 2.5 to 3" thick and will run it thru a thickness planer at a friends in a day or so. I expect no major problems since I did the same thing to a jag body a week ago from a similar log.

Friday nights I tend to drink a bit and am delusional. :)

I need to practice my cowboy chords for the final challenge...

Good Luck!
Cheers http://i360.photobucket.com/albums/oo50/Noekie/beerhat-beer-hat-cheers-beer-smiley.gif

Just checked on the wood blank and all is well. It has dried a lot. I wish I had weighed it before hand, but the difference is very noticeable.

Only minor checking and cracks, nothing that will affect the look or integrity of the wood. I have turned the oven back to 180 and will let it cook for a few more hours.

Glad to hear things are going well; something about leaving wood in an oven overnight gives me the shivers.

Started sawing my neck blank today. Lots of planing and rasping and sanding to do, but so far no major foul ups. Like everything else, the first time is the hardest and most nerve racking.

Sitting next to the body and neck blanks is the Jag style guitar I made a month or so ago. The neck is store bought, but I did the body, binding, etc.

This is really like a sculpture! Love the looks. And the Jag-style guitar looks so good, I think this one will be awesome.

Thanks for the encouragement. It is certainly in a rough state right now, but I also consider it a sculpture and a work in progress as I learn by doing.

I have been building bodies since about this time last year. Mostly by gluing 2x6 lumber together and routing them using templates. The jag is the first one I have laminated front and back and double bound.

Most of my body builds have been posted over at the Squier sister site for a couple reasons. I like Squier necks and they are affordable if you are going to build bodies for a hobby, and ... I am intimidated by the shear number of great builders here on this site.

This is my first neck and the next step of routing comes next. My question, which is answered here somewhere is how to rout the truss rod on the back since this is a one piece neck. It seems that I remember the channel is not flat and I will need to build a jig to set the rod so it is flexed slightly...?

This is my first neck and the next step of routing comes next. My question, which is answered here somewhere is how to rout the truss rod on the back since this is a one piece neck. It seems that I remember the channel is not flat and I will need to build a jig to set the rod so it is flexed slightly...?

I just built a jig like that today, check my build thread (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/2012-tdpri-tele-build-challenge/318093-tklaavos-2012-challenge-build-thread-2.html#post4017582) if you like..

Jack was kind enough to give me the radius of the curves in the main forum. For a 25.5 scale the half closest to the headstock is 255inch and the other half is 115 inch.

Tonight I'm going to try and make a jig using slightly different curves. Will post on my challenge thread once done.

Cheers

Nice burl, it should look amazing.

Well. I made a template out of mdf for the neck from my master template. Since I had gone that far and it is still light out I decided to rout the neck too.

Everything was going fine until I got to the contoured part of the neck. I had a tearout, but not where the machine heads go, or where it will affect structural integrity. I have glued the piece back in and will finish shaping the headstock by hand and with a rotary drum sander. I don't think I will ever try to rout that part of the headstock ever again :cry::cry::cry:

The bright side is that it will not show when done and the rest of the neck turned out good. I have a couple scuffs on the heel that can be filled and fixed easily, they are very small, so all in all, I am happy with my first attempt at routing the shape of a tele neck.

I just built a jig like that today, check my build thread (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/2012-tdpri-tele-build-challenge/318093-tklaavos-2012-challenge-build-thread-2.html#post4017582) if you like..

Thank you. Your build is looking very good, and your neck looks like I had hoped for :lol:

Jack was kind enough to give me the radius of the curves in the main forum. For a 25.5 scale the half closest to the headstock is 255inch and the other half is 115 inch.

Tonight I'm going to try and make a jig using slightly different curves. Will post on my challenge thread once done.

Cheers

Looking forward to any help I can get with the truss rod set up and rout.

I would have built a 2 piece neck first, but since we cannot use preslotted fingerboards I decided it would be easier for me to radius a one piece and cut the slots in it.

Thank you. Your build is looking very good, and your neck looks like I had hoped for :lol:

Thanks! I'm curious to see if you will actually go the extra miles and measure those 255" and whatever radiuses when you do the curve profile. Well I didn't... but I'm such a lazy guy.:cool:

Am I overthinking or not understanding the truss rod installation? The truss rod I have is dual action. I plan to have it adjust at the heel. I do not remember where I got it, but it is rectangular with a rounded bottom and covered in black plastic like material. Uses a hex wrench.

The channel I make on the back of the neck does not need to be curved? It can just be a flat rout?

Am I overthinking or not understanding the truss rod installation? The truss rod I have is dual action. I plan to have it adjust at the heel. I do not remember where I got it, but it is rectangular with a rounded bottom and covered in black plastic like material. Uses a hex wrench.

The channel I make on the back of the neck does not need to be curved? It can just be a flat rout?

Post a picture of your truss rod; folks will help you out. If it's got two separate rods, joined at the ends, then it shouldn't need a curved rout.

Thank you for the quick reply.

Yes it is 2 separate rods joined at the ends.

That makes making a template/jig far easier for my first neck.

I have cut out a new neck with the extra wood from the first one I tore out with the router. It is useable, but I can do better. Lesson learned, more handwork, less router on curves and shapes. :)

Armed with a little knowledge I went back to the garage, assembled a makeshift jig, center lines drawn, and router lined up, I routed and inserted the truss rod.

I found the tag from the rod and I bought it from Grizzly a year ago, anticipating this moment.

A slight moment of distraction and I wavered a bit on the first pass, but after that all went way better than I could have hoped for the first time.

That sounds like your truss rod is dual action, so you would need a flat slot. No curves needed.

Isn't that trussrod awfylly low in the neck?
I'm certainly not an expert, having only made one neck, but I think you have to place it much closer to the fret site. This doesn't look right to me.
Hopefully, I'm wrong (as usual)

Yeah, it's hard to see what you've done there. Those style double action rods are installed right underneath the fretboard, usually in a 2 piece nck.

You rout a straight channel just deep enough for the flat face of the rod to be level with the neck face, and then glue on the fb.

If that's a right handed guitar, then I believe Ryden and Roger might be on to something.
The problem will be when you carve the neck, that's going to leave the rod with just a
whisper of wood separating it from "rearing it's ugly head". Ask me how I know this......
You could always do a "reverse headstock" and make this side the fretboard side.

The wood is still 1 3/8" Thick and the extra material will come off the top. It is a one piece neck. I think it is right, but not sure now. I put it in from the bottom. I read, I think at stewmac, that it could go in from the back also.

Mmmm. the other problem is that the two way rod isn't designed to be inserted from the heel, but rather thru the rout. There isn't really anything there to hold the rod in place, as they aren't anchored like a single rod.

The rod is rectangular and fits tightly in the groove. Won't the pressure of tightening the rod hole it in place?

Ouch. My first cup of coffee is in front of me, its gloomy outside, and I am having an anxiety attack. :lol:

THe rout looks fine to me... assuming it's a lefty or a reverse headstock...

They're right, though. It shouldn't slide in from the front like that.

It's the carving of the back that concerns me, czook. Don't get an anxiety attack just
yet though, as we're just talking this thing through. It may come to be that you're perfectly
fine with what you have. However, if it were me, I'd fill the hole in the heel, and reroute
the channel a little deeper, getting the rod ultimately in what will be the "middle" of the
neck looking at it from the end. Think about this, what if you need to put a little "back bow"
in it? There's not much wood going to be there for it grab. Plus, as it stands, you'll need
to be absolutely precise when you start shaping the back or you risk exposing the rod.

Also, how will you adjust it? Do you plan that it needs to be removed for that?
As it is, the access will be down in the bottom of the neck/p'up route.

I found this in the archives, http://www.tdpri.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-208860.html

It is deeper than it may appear from the adjusting nut. I drilled the hole oversize on the heel to get it in smoothly and to not bind the adjusting nut. I may have it upside down. As it is I have the curved side facing the frets because I used a rounded bit and it fits better and deeper that way. If so I can clean the bottom with a square bit.

I plan on adjusting it through the front pup opening. I have a couple heel adjusting teles that I have to take the neck off of, but I plan on making a slot in this body for easier adjustment while the neck is attached.

The neck is still way thicker than it will be, and all the wood will be planed off of the top/fretboard side. If my channel is deep enough, then shaping the back of the neck and making the rod too close to the surface on the back should not be an issue ??

Anyway, that was my reasoning last night. ;)

That's the part that's probably throwing all of us. Normally, all the material would come off
the back, as you want the fretboard side to remain perfectly flat as a starting point.

So, as long as you have room to sand the final shape, and if I'm understanding, the rod
actually curves to dip down in the middle, then you'll be ok. Don't forget you need to shape
the heel, so keep that nut in the back of your head. Which, I'm sure you would anyway.

Right. I probably have done this ass backwards by not planing it to thickness to begin with. If my math and depth of the slot is right, then by planing down the fingerboard area I should still be ok. I plan on planing the fingerboard side next, before I glue in the skunk stripe, radius sand the fingerboard and cut slots. Then I will recheck depth.

It should work unless my slot is too deep, which I don't think is an issue. If anything I may need to deepen it.

Most of the info out there is for 2 piece necks, so I mixed several techniques to get to this point. But...I may have mixed UP too many techniques if it goes badly.

Unconventional for sure, but remember I used a chainsaw to cut a body out of a log :roll::roll::roll:

Planed the neck to the correct thickness. The tape is 1" wide as a reference, and I planed just above it for a little wiggle and sanding room.

Made a thickness jig and sanded out the headstock. Routed the neck except for the end and the headstock. Lesson learned on that part :rolleyes:

Are you planning to have the neck the same thickness all through?
Normaly the back of the neck is relieved and it doesn't look like you have any room to do so here without cutting into the trussrod.
http://i42.tinypic.com/20jiicm.jpg

Are you planning to have the neck the same thickness all through?
Normaly the back of the neck is relieved and it doesn't look like you have any room to do so here without cutting into the trussrod.
http://i42.tinypic.com/20jiicm.jpg

Yup, I figured that out and I will need to deepen the headstock end of the rout, but I plan to rough it out first to see how much I need to go.

My next one I'll try to get the order of the steps a little closer. All I am doing is making it harder than it needed to be, but this is my first neck (obviously) and I have been learning steps in the wrong order. :oops: :oops: :oops:

I have a fret saw, press, and radius sanding block coming from stewmac, maybe tomorrow it will be here. They are really fast shipping.

Deleted. Didn't see page 2 when I answered, about 15 posts too late.:oops:

Enjoying your build, BTW. Never would have thought of roast stump in the oven, but it looks like it turned out well!

I have a fret saw, press, and radius sanding block coming from stewmac, maybe tomorrow it will be here. They are really fast shipping.

They are indeed, but I'm sure they're busy people right now with 100+ entries here. My order should get here tomorrow; I'm impatient to start up again.

Not sure what you're going to use for a skunk stripe in the back, but I've heard from several folks that the 2-way rods tend to push those skunk stripes out. Lots of force from a 2-way...

otherwise it all looks great

Not sure what you're going to use for a skunk stripe in the back, but I've heard from several folks that the 2-way rods tend to push those skunk stripes out. Lots of force from a 2-way...

otherwise it all looks great

I've decided to deepen the channel just in case. Thanks for the heads up.

Hmm, I've got a 2 way truss rod, the one from Stew Mac, and was planning a 1-piece neck with skunk stripe on the back. Now I'm wondering if that's gonna work. I'll be interested in seeing how this turns out, czook.

As I understand it, though the info available from the manufacturers tends to be vague and differs, is that a dual rod is designed to go under the fingerboard.

I have found posts here and on other builder forums that indicate it can be done on the bottom, but the risk is pushing out the skunk stripe out from pressure. It seems from some that they have successfully done it. The skunk strip needs to be epoxied and fit well.

The depthness of the channel will need to be about 3/4 so that it fits basically where a traditional single rod would be at its apex near the fingerboard. The advantage would be a straight channel as compared to a curved channel done with a jig with an arc. The disadvantages are the duals weigh more and you risk pushing the skunk stripe out if you have to put a lot of pressure on it.

I am already committed and I do not think I will have an issue with the skunk stripe. The dual rod, according to most, needs to be unanchored in the pocket. If it were possible to epoxy the dual rod in place then the stability issue would be better addressed. Since the rod is covered in vinyl I think it can be epoxied, at least on the botton of the channel, but I have a call into the manufacturer (Grizzly) to see if that will negatively effect the action of the rod.

Once they call back I will post the gist of the conversation, but regardless I am using the dual action from the back since I am committed and am doing a single piece neck.

I haven't cut my truss-rod slot yet, so I could still do a 2 piece neck. I look forward to hearing Grizzly's response.

I am really new to this, so I'm not sure I would take my own advise, but here you go.

If your overall thickness of the neck will be 1" or so, the rout should be about 3/4" like you said. I would install the rod with the adjusting nut (socket,whatever) toward the back side of the neck. I bought a S/M 2 way rod & that's how they said to install it. After it's installed the fingerboard side of the truss rod should end up 1/4" from the top of the neck. Glue in the skunk stripe with whatever type of glue you like (Titebond or Elmer's are stronger than the wood after they cure) and Bob's your uncle you're done. Should have plenty of room to contour the back. Or at least the same room you would have had if you installed it from the top and then added the fingerboard.

Like I said, I sure could have this wrong, but the two voices in my head agreed!

Oh, by the way (others please cinfirm or deny this) I don't think you should glue the rods. I think they need to be free to move.

Oh, by the way, is that body medium rare or well done?

My neck is about 0.9-inches thick right now. Maybe I ought to just do a fingerboard.

Having done three one-piece necks with StewMac hotrods, I can tell you they certainly work. You're right, czook, that the stripe needs to fit well; that's a given, I'd say. And I do use epoxy for them.

The only difference comes if you wish to adjust from the headstock; given the way the rout needs to be, you'll have to mount the rod upside-down. I've experienced less pain mounting them with the adjustment at the body end.

Thickness Planer. I've been wanting a thickness planer for a while, but couldn't justify the $500, actually didn't want to try to justify it to my wife, so I don't have one.

After seeing several builders here make a sled table for their router, I put together a simple one this morning.

As you have seen my guitar body is very rough cut since it was done with a chainsaw out of a stump. The sled worked very well and I was able to get the body down to 1.75 inches after running both sides through and a little sanding.

Here it is with a little mineral spirits on it to show the figuring.

Oh, by the way, is that body medium rare or well done?

I just took off about an inch, some on both sides, expecting a little wetness but in terms of steak I would put it at medium well :lol:

The log I cut it from had been laying outside for a year or more, but it was plenty green when I sawed it to rough shape. Thus I put it in the oven, but not without a lot of reading. It is also the 2nd body I have done this way from a cottonwood stump, so I had a little experience to draw from.

This is the first with really amazing figuring. It did not look like a burl in log form, but it was interesting inside, Like finding a geode.

Having done three one-piece necks with StewMac hotrods, I can tell you they certainly work. You're right, czook, that the stripe needs to fit well; that's a given, I'd say. And I do use epoxy for them.

The only difference comes if you wish to adjust from the headstock; given the way the rout needs to be, you'll have to mount the rod upside-down. I've experienced less pain mounting them with the adjustment at the body end.
OK, forgive me for being slow. But, these hot rod truss-rods work by interacting with itself, right? I could conceivably just route a slot all the way through the heel and stick a skunk stripe in there? At the very least, my slot doesn't have to be EXACTLY the right length, just the right depth and width?

A sculpture AND a painting in one piece. Me likes.

Thickness Planer. I've been wanting a thickness planer for a while...

Craig's List, Kijiji, local wood workers' bulletin boards...

It took a while, but I picked one up for $80, which complies with my current "over $100 tool acquisition disclosure limit" as negotiated with SWMBO. :grin:

OK, forgive me for being slow. But, these hot rod truss-rods work by interacting with itself, right? I could conceivably just route a slot all the way through the heel and stick a skunk stripe in there? At the very least, my slot doesn't have to be EXACTLY the right length, just the right depth and width?

As I understand it, yes. My channel is tight and I am comfortable with that part. As far as length, as long as you put a dab of silicone at each end that will keep it in place, as well as the tension itself will hole it in place. I would like to epoxy the the rod it from the bottom of the channel, but I am still waiting on an answer to that.

OK, I understand. A tight fit is best, but not something I need to obsess over. Thanks for letting me piggyback in your thread, I've subscribed. I have a friend with a big hunk of poplar in his house that's been drying for a few years. It reminds me of your chunk.

Thickness Planer. I've been wanting a thickness planer for a while, but couldn't justify the $500, actually didn't want to try to justify it to my wife, so I don't have one.

After seeing several builders here make a sled table for their router, I put together a simple one this morning.

As you have seen my guitar body is very rough cut since it was done with a chainsaw out of a stump. The sled worked very well and I was able to get the body down to 1.75 inches after running both sides through and a little sanding.

Here it is with a little mineral spirits on it to show the figuring.

:shock: wow, that's looking great. did you get that figuring by accident or design? it's perfect for the open forearm area on the front and covers the whole back. brilliant. :)

I pickup a couple logs, which were really the wedges they cut out of cottonwood to fall the tree from along side a mud road, an unmaintained farm road. It was an accident but a lot of the figuring showed through on the original stump through the chainsaw marks. I had no idea it was as much as it was. Most of them are fairly plain patterns.

As I understand it, yes. My channel is tight and I am comfortable with that part. As far as length, as long as you put a dab of silicone at each end that will keep it in place, as well as the tension itself will hole it in place. I would like to epoxy the the rod it from the bottom of the channel, but I am still waiting on an answer to that.

I recd an email from the company telling me it is ok to epoxy the rod to the channel. They went on to explain why,

"Since the two component rods are protected by the vinyl covering you can use an epoxy glue to secure the rod in the neck. Once your truss rod channel is filled in with your filler wood the rod will be able impart its force over the entire neck. The epoxy glue is more for dampening vibration in the truss rod than it is for securing the truss rod into the neck. Vibration in the truss rod will take energy away from the strings and dull the tone of the guitar. As long as your filler wood in the truss rod channel is sufficiently glued in place it should not be damaged by the truss rod."

Can I put the fret board dots in after I radius it or does it need done prior to the radius step?

They can be done after, but you'll need to go back and sand to level them out with the fretboard

Thanks. The reason I ask is I am waiting on the dots and would like to start radius sanding. I have not shaped the back of the neck yet either, so rather than make this more difficult I may move back to the body for a while.

I've done dots once and I had already radiused the board when I installed them, so like
Roger said, just go back over with the radius block to get them to final thickness, and
all will be well. Just be sure to leave them a little proud of the board when you drill your
holes.

Sanded the body shape with ROSS rather than finishing the final shape with the router. Maybe more work, but a lot less chance of a major mistake.

Have a couple spots where the bark met the wood that will be a contour and one will be a knot hole.

Hey Czook,

That is beautiful. Well done!

Barncaster

I really like the pattern in that wood, it looks like a storm cloud!

Fret Saw Jig I built this morning. Getting ready to saw initial fret slots before I radius the fret board, then will recut again.

Built a mitre box with a sliding insert that has a holed at the 4th hole to bolt down headstock and clamps to hold neck on centerline. Because of the bolt I turn the slide around to get the end frets.

A feat of engineering for a beginner :) Building the jigs is almost as hard as building the guitar...

Where can I buy those awesome clamps? I'm working on a fretting jig too. It looks like you have slots in your miter for the entire neck. But you say the base slides, and I see the metal guides are screwed down. Was the fully slotted miter b ox part of the first iteration that you abandoned? I'm asking because I did the same thing, the fully slotted miter box side, but I'm not sure if that's the best approach or not.

Those are just pencil marks while I was trying to figure it out. There is only one cutting slot and it is aligned with aluminum angle to make a guide for the saw. The saw is from Stewmac and the clamps I got a while back on Amazon. I think they are MSI brand.

Cut the slots and then used a radius block, 9.5" and put the radius on the neck. Arm weary but finished.

Now I have shaped the back. Started with a rasp. Got tired of that but got the bottom edge started and rounded. Then playing with fire I stepped up to the ROSS (Random Orbital Spindle Sander, or a drum sander or whatever the *#*# it is called and sanded the rest of the back. If you keep the wood moving it works.

I am pretty stoked by just how good it turned out.

Then playing with fire I stepped up to the ROSS (Random Orbital Spindle Sander, or a drum sander or whatever the *#*# it is called and sanded the rest of the back.
:lol:
ROSS = Ridgid Oscillating Spindle Sander
BOSS = Benchtop Oscillating Spindle Sander made by Delta
ROS = random orbital sander (the handheld type)

Drum sander is technically anything that uses a sanding drum, but is more often referring to a thickness sander that uses a large sanding drum oriented horizontally under which the work is passed.

Nice work on the neck carve, looks awesome!

Killer Chuck,

Super learning curve... it's really coming along.

Did you get a chance to check out that guys you-tube with the router jig he made for the doing the back radius. I'm sure that building the jig would take a fair amount of time.

Keep up the good work...

Those are just pencil marks while I was trying to figure it out. There is only one cutting slot and it is aligned with aluminum angle to make a guide for the saw. The saw is from Stewmac and the clamps I got a while back on Amazon. I think they are MSI brand.

OK, I ordered 2 of those clamps. I think I'm gonna steal several of your ideas for my own jig. I'll send you the royalties. :mrgreen:

The gist of it was a 1 x 4 with a frame built around it on 3 sides so the 1 x 4 fit snuggly but would slide. I used 3/4" angle iron (aluminium) available at all home stores for saw guides. The saw side of the jig I cut the side board in two and screwed on the saw guides and the back side was lower so I mounted the same angle saw guides horizontally. I marked the fretboard for the frets and also the centerline. I marked the moveable 1 x 4 down the center. Drilled a hole where the 4th tuner goes in the neck and the sliding board, bolted the neck which made the headstock end always on centerline, and moved the board for each cut. Clamped it on center each time.

Once it was built it only takes 15 minutes to cut the slots. Remember you will need to recut them at some point after you radius the fret board.

You could do the same thing with an improvised premade plastic mitre box, but I am 30 miles from the nearest shopping, so I made one.

Figure it out as you build it. The main thing is the centerline which will keep you square.

More progress today and tonight.

Routed the body and put the frets in the neck.

Got the fret edges filed and sanded. They finally feel good. I cut the slots a little too deep so I ran thin super glue under each fret from both sides. I only had a problem with one fret which I pulled and replaced because it would not seat on one side.


But....in the spirit of doing everything backasswards, I forgot the dots ! :oops:

So now I will install them after the fact. Found a short tutorial over at frets.com and it would have been easier doing it first, but hey, its a learning experience, I get excited and plow forward, but so far no permanent damage :mrgreen:

Hey, czook, before you get too far, you should probably go ahead and put the dots in
before you do the frets, it's easier that way.

oh.....wait........nevermind.

Just razzing ya'. You're not alone because in the beginning (& longer, lol) I believe most
of us "got ahead of ourselves". The best thing to know is that if something like this happens
again, it's better if you get online and say something like, "Oh yeah, I ALWAYS put my
dot's in AFTER the frets". About 1/2 the people that read it will be like, "Ohhhh, that's
pretty smart"....lol. Great work so far!

Got home last evening and decided to epoxy the 2 way rod and skunk strip into the channel. If you remember I put the 2 way in from the bottom of a 1 piece neck, not convention and problematic for many.

This morning I went out and turned the truss rod a bit both ways, enough to cause a change in the bow and relief and it remained solid and I could adjust the neck accordingly. I did not force the issue, just enough to make sure I would get adjustment movement without popping the skunk stripe. Worked fine.

The manufacturer told me I could epoxy the rod into the channel, which is not mentioned at Stewmac or LMI. I was skeptical, but it was the only way I saw to stabilize it enough to be useful and not pop the stripe.

I will sand it down later today. The stripe is oak, which is all I had other than more maple. I will probably stain just the stripe prior to the finish coats, Not sure until I see it sanded.

Another hurdle jumped, and one that could have been problematic.

Progress Report.

Thanks to emoney for the great advice ;) I put the dots and side markers in after fretting and the extra effort it took to sand down the dots (I could not find pre-radiused dots) was enlightening. I have drilled the tuner peg holes and sanded it all down. Put some spirits on it to see where the figuring had gone and it is still there :)

Put a roundover on the body and sanded to the point I could wipe on a coat of Danish Oil to see how it would affect the wood patterns. I didn't want anything too dark, being afraid I would darken the light areas and lose the dark figuring. So far so good.

its coming out great zook!

Thanks to everyone who has got me to this point. I watched last years build with awe and decided that I wanted to learn some of what it takes to build a complete guitar. Wow/

I read my own thread and realize how much of the learning comes from just doing. I've done a few things in reverse order, but it just made it a little more of a challenge. I've done a few bodies, but the neck in particular scared me. In fact it was the most fun of the entire build to this point.

I have put a few coats of Danish Oil on the body and neck and like it. The body in particular needed something to penetrate and protect it from itself. Remember, it was just a chunk of log less than a month ago. It has a few cracks and crevices, but like wrinkles, they are just character lines. :)

Man you are on the home stretch now. Keep up the good work.

That is such a cool piece of wood, I could stare at it for hours. Nice work.

Really looks great Chuck...

I'm sure you've got closeups of your neck that you'll post when you get time - really impressive for a first time out, you rock dude! :wink:

Unbelievable - Seriously, I can't believe you made that beautiful work of art out of that stump! That is one of the most awesomest, grainified.....see, you've got me tongue-tied.

Finishing question.

I am using Danish Oil. I have seen it shined up. How do you do that? Wax & buffing?

I am not looking for a gloss finish, but a deep sheen.

Here are a few pics of the body and neck after several coats of Danish Oil.

That body is alive. I can't imagine how good it must look in person.

That body is sweeeet !

The grain pattern on both the body and neck is fantastic, Great job:wink:

I am finally to the stages that I have done before. In my mind I always am thinking this could be my last cut...

I haven't measured to make sure of scale since my initial mock up. :rolleyes:

I just did and it is all good. :lol:

Anyone know how to shine up the Danish Oil finish?

Wow, looks great!

I think with Danish Oil it's about the right amount of coats and then a liquid wax.
Go here for more info;

http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/oil_finishes.pdf

Good luck.

Been gathering hardware and tinkering on the neck and body. The Danish Oil has been on several days and the wood is hard and smooth and I will wax later.

Drilled the string thru holes and I got off on one, tryed to force it over and now I have invented a string ferrule tonebar, that replaces those pesky individual string ferrules. ;)

Have drilled the neck and body and am ready to start putting things together as time permits. New pix soon.

Good work Chuck. The grain on that body is amazing. How much does it weigh? You said it was cottonwood. I believe that it is similar to poplar? Can't wait to see it done.

It has dried and lightened quite a bit since I started. It was about 60lbs and now it is around 4. I have the neck temporarily on it right now so I can't actually weigh it, but I will prior to assembly.

Cottonwood is a common name applied to most Poplars. Aspen is a Poplar, Populus tremuloides and has the cotton covered seeds on female trees, just like the more common Populus deltoides or Eastern Cottonwood, which is the wood I am using.

I didn't realize cottonwoods were poplar. I had 2 really big ones in my front yard as a kid. I always hated spring time when it started to look like it was snowing outside...

What about Tulip? Is that poplar too?
(edit: Apparently not)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liriodendron

Not a Poplar, but sometimes are referred to as Tulip Poplar. It's botanical name is Liriodendron tulipifera, and is not even in the Populus genus. It is a really soft wood and breaks easy.

I was a nurseryman and wholesale grower and have the BS degrees and certificates. Did it for over 20 years so I am well acquainted with Northern Hardy landscape trees, shrubs, and roses.

There are a couple different types of Tulip; by a strange coincidence, I was just looking into it yesterday. I'm building a classical guitar rosette out of "Brazilian Tulipwood," which turns out to be a dalbergia, like rosewood. It's got vivid, swirling pink figure with interlocking grain that, so far, is defeating my handplanes.

Sorry for the hijack; it was just a weird coincidence. On with the build!

Well, the real question is; "Which type of tulip did Tiny Tim tiptoe through?" (say that 3 times real fast)

Did he tiptoe tenaciously or was there any trepidation in his trot?

Some mockups, letting the finish settle a bit. The wood of the body has been a moving target. There is a slight cup in the middle of the body, lower on the top, bulged on the bottom. Not noticeable for most, but something I have to allow for with the bridge.

Where the bridge bolts down is level, but the front of the bridge sits in the air an 1/8" or so. I can bend the bridge to conform, but I have a feeling I will have a few more modifications to keep it setup and playable in the future.

There is a natural contour on the bottom where the bark began and the wood ended. I used it to install an output jack, and electrosocket style. The one thing I like about strats is I can see the jack from the top of the guitar, so I compromised and only put it at a 45 degree angle, where I can still see it. :wink:

Other than that it will be pretty traditional hardware. A vintage bridge with brass saddles, no pickguard, TOG Ring on front Pickup.

I have a couple choices for neck pups. An SD qtr pounder or a new vintage fender pup (Came from a 2011 American Standard). The SD is very hot.

For the Bridge I have a Fender American Vintage Bridge with flat poles. Weighs in at over 11 ohms. I do not remember where it came from, but glad I found it in the parts drawers.

Plan to finish the electronics and hopefully string it up late today.

Got the string thru area on back cleaned up and routed the area and used a piece of walnut to create a tone block for the ferrules.

Added few more coats of Danish Oil. It really does develop a nice sheen after multiple coats.

Gotta name the guitar, seems everyone does. It has went from so many stages to what is close to a finished product, each idea seems old or used.

It was stumpcaster, slabcaster, poplarcaster, cottoncaster, bipolarcaster, wow where did that grain pattern come from caster, ohsh*tcaster, damn I'm glad I'm done with the router caster, and on and on. I must have sat and stared at it hanging in front of me for an hour or more last night, mesmerized by the patterns and continuity of the body and neck.

Maybe just the ditchbitchcaster, or...

Congrats; the stage where you're nearly ready to string up, and nervously anticipating the moment, is my favorite one. You're done, but not quite; there's still "something else to do" on this all-consuming project that's dominated the last few weeks. Once it makes noise, it's almost a let-down. Or maybe that's just me.

I keep finding things to touch up or do a little different which keeps putting off the noise thing. Things that were 'good enough' no longer are, so they get finessed. I hope it is today or this evening, but the course of the day will decide that.

Got it put together yesterday and plugged it in. Have a few problems to address but ran out of time.

The neck needs the truss rod adjusted. The bridge pickup is weak, I suspect a wiring issue or bad PUP.

The SD quarter pounder is really strong. Great tone, but I have not bothered intonating and final setup until I get the neck adjusted and the PUP fixed.

I am so glad it all came together and will work. Looks like I will have a guitar before the deadline ;)

Done. I will be tweaking a bit but it works. Intonates, Sounds good and the only thing I may work more on is the action. It is a bit high, but very playable. I used a Tusq nut, but it is a bit low so I will be carving a new nut out of a bone blank.

I am excited, relieved, and proud I was able to finish a playable guitar.

I think I will call it the Stumpcaster, due to its beginning as a stump found along the road where they were clearing brush.

Again, congrats! The figure in the wood came out as nicely as expected, and it's a one-of-a-kind piece.

Gotta name the guitar, seems everyone does. It has went from so many stages to what is close to a finished product, each idea seems old or used.

It was stumpcaster, slabcaster, poplarcaster, cottoncaster, bipolarcaster, wow where did that grain pattern come from caster, ohsh*tcaster, damn I'm glad I'm done with the router caster, and on and on. I must have sat and stared at it hanging in front of me for an hour or more last night, mesmerized by the patterns and continuity of the body and neck.

Maybe just the ditchbitchcaster, or...

Chuck, before I even got to this post, looking at it a couple of posts above, it just popped into my head, "Wow, a Wildcaster". Considering its origins, the wild, wild grain, etc. Whatever you call it, congratulations on crafting a beautiful guitar!

Congrats :) , very nice build , very nice thread , and a beauty of a guitar .

Great job that is a fine looking guitar.

Chuck - Great looking guitar. I love the natural grain in wood and yours is off the hook! Congratulations on an amazing build.

Finished more tweaking. I replace the Tusq nut with a brass nut. I cut the slot on the E a little deep and was having trouble at the first fret, so fixed that. The intonation is close, maybe as close as I will get with a 3 saddle. I personally will never notice...

8.2 pounds total as pictured.

Still contemplating a headstock decal, but for now I will present it nekked.

...and the usual disclaimer that my playing is far from good but I did go thru all the switch and pot positions and the video is over 1 minute. Will post it as soon as it finishes uploading. No editing, just a raw video shot from a small camera.

Beautiful guitar Chuck, that grain is crazy cool! can't wait to hear it.

Played through a Frontman 25 with no effects or gain.

scLQ-HILygg


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scLQ-HILygg

Sounds great, plenty of bite, I like that. nice swampy blues too.:cool:
Great job well done.:smile:

Big sound!!! That'll work!

You really gotta love wood as unique and beautiful as that, and you have really managed to make it come alive. :smile:

love your guitar czook, specially the body, and it sounds great - you did fine and congrats

Great build and video! Kudos to you!

(however......I believe the rocking chair is haunted. You might wanna replace that...)

Nice!!

Well done! Who knew a cottonwood tree could end up looking and sounding so great!

Gorgeous guitar, great work. Just don't know what else to say. Wow!

I like it! Congratulations. Really nice work and sounds like the real thing.

I love the way that neck PUP looks. That's cool.

Sounds great, too. Good Job. I gotta shoot finish this weekend come hell or high water (or cold weather).

The body looks great... in fact the whole thing looks fantastic.

Agree with all of the above - a unique piece that sounds and looks great - well done!

I keep looking at this and going "Wow!" Really unique, good looking guitar. I plan to watch the video tonight.

I keep looking at this and going "Wow!" Really unique, good looking guitar. I plan to watch the video tonight.

OKAY, just watched the video. Very nice.....you can send it when you are ready. :smile:

Great Job!

I really love the way this guitar looks all blonde and that body wood! WOW! Nice video too it sounds great! Congrats on a fantastic build! You should be proud.

Looks cool, definitely as scratch built as most folks would ever go I think! Great job! I was thinking Cottoncaster, but hey Stumpcaster is probably a little bit more appropriate. Cool deal, looks like its time for some cottonpickin'! :mrgreen:

Regards,

Don

Thanks Rev. It was a really fun build since I had a few hurdles to jump that are not usually part of a build.

I have a log with even better grain patterns that has been drying for a while and a Jag shape that has been cut from a log and is already shaped. So the theme will continue for at least a couple builds. I kind of like that it is native wood that has grown less than 5 miles from where I live.

Cottonpicken'...thats appropriately funny :)

Great build, sounds fantastic too, and the whole process you went through with the body was amazing. Congrats!

The Stumpcaster, carved from a cottonwood log and a 1 piece flamed Maple neck.





scLQ-HILygg