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Vero board questions - Treble Booster

JamesS2
March 10th, 2012, 05:23 PM
Hi, I'm planning on making a veroboard treble booster, and i'm probably going to use the layout shown below, from this website ; http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2010/03/and-few-more.html

Also, can anyone suggest a suitable NPN transistor for this?

I'm wondering, can this be wired to work with a power supply? If not, does anyone know of any suitable treble booster layouts layouts online? Especially if they include the wiring layout aswell. I've made a couple of kits but want to move onto veroboards, there seems to be a whole lot more to it than bunging a load of components into a PCB.

Here are a couple of sites I've found with loads of layouts, hope someone else finds these useful;
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/DRAGONFLY-LAYOUTS_0/album14/album143/
http://www.sabrotone.com/

Anyone got any others?

Thanks, and I'll make sure to upload some pics, and if anyone has any pics of their vero builds then i'd be chuffed to see 'em.

tjk3052
March 10th, 2012, 09:24 PM
Small Bear (http://www.smallbearelec.com/home.html) sells NPN Germanium trannies that work good in Rangemasters. Pedal Parts Plus (http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/) has some too, I think. If you build it with an NPN transistor, then yes, it can share a normal power supply with other pedals. If you build it with a PNP transistor, then you usually have to wire the circuit to have a positive ground, which means it has to use it's own supply. Or batteries - running it on a 9v battery isn't a bad idea with RM's because the battery lasts forever and it will be less noisy with a battery. RM's are kind of noisy circuits.

You should read through this if you haven't already:
http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/rangemaster/atboost.pdf

JamesS2
March 11th, 2012, 08:06 PM
Ok, thanks, I hadnt seen that Geofex file, very useful. I'll probably stick to the treble booster layout from Aron Nelson's website and try a few different transistors. I've found a site selling OC44s here http://markhindes.easywebstore.co.uk/searchresults.aspx?searchterm=OC44 , but I think i'll try a few cheaper alternatives before dropping Ģ8 on a transistor...

TheSmokingMan
March 12th, 2012, 12:17 AM
that same site also has a generic offboard wiring diagram for stuff like external power

limbe
March 12th, 2012, 06:55 AM
Ok, thanks, I hadnt seen that Geofex file, very useful. I'll probably stick to the treble booster layout from Aron Nelson's website and try a few different transistors. I've found a site selling OC44s here http://markhindes.easywebstore.co.uk/searchresults.aspx?searchterm=OC44 , but I think i'll try a few cheaper alternatives before dropping Ģ8 on a transistor...
I think thatīs a wise decision!
If later on you want to build a treble booster thatīs not noisy I would advise you to stay away from germanium transistors and build one with a low-noise IC , metal-film resistors and quality caps (not ceramic) for example.

74 Deluxe
March 13th, 2012, 09:53 AM
Sites...Anyone got any others?

Thanks, and I'll make sure to upload some pics, and if anyone has any pics of their vero builds then i'd be chuffed to see 'em.

Yes! freestompboxes.org THE BEST!

This is a work in progress... 3/4Muff into a 741 booster with a 5E3 tonestack between them... recycled caps and resistors from an old Hammond organ in an old Boss enclosure... Trannies and 741 aren't on the vero yet...
http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z384/CarlGuitarl/5E3MD4.jpg
Just pulled this board apart last nite... turned a new vero 90 degrees and started to repopulate with a new layout (same schemo) not much clearance in that Boss box for those antique caps...

limbe
March 13th, 2012, 11:40 PM
Those caps look like the ones I found in an old FOXX phaser pedal.A couple of them had dried out.

JamesS2
March 15th, 2012, 01:11 PM
74 Deluxe, yeah i have found freestompboxes.org but its hard to find the vero layouts i want, although i did see plenty of turret layouts. And thats a cool sounding project.

I'm still waiting for some more parts for my treble booster so im gonna start a doctor Q build, from http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/Renegadrian/dr_+Q+icegrd.gif.html but I have a couple of questions. Is the red circle just beneath cap 2 an LED? Are the grey strips just showing where the circuit is grounding or do I need to do something with these?
Does anyone have a link to somewhere with the generic offboard wiring? I saw a load and now can't find them... I want a power supply socket but i don't want an LED and want to do this using a DPDT instead of a 3PDT, i'm guessing this is no problem.
Thanks alot

limbe
March 15th, 2012, 05:30 PM
According to the schematic Orman draw in`99 of the EH Doctor Q ,it is a 1N914 diode.
The other red component is also a 1N914 diode.The strip that is colored grey is ground
which should be grounded (surprise!) in the metal box.You can see the schematic here:
http://www.muzique.com/schem/doctor-q.gif

JamesS2
March 18th, 2012, 03:09 PM
ok thanks. I should've thought to check the schematic. Although that leaves me with a predicament, follow the schem or the layout... hmm. I''l probably socket them, although ive started to populate it and it's pretty tight.
With the grounding, is it a case of soldering onto the case, or could I ground it on the back of a pot? Why not just ground it on the output jack ground lug? I'm completely clueless when it comes to grounding (and everything else...).
I'm still waiting for parts :twisted: , wanna get on with it!

Thanks

tjk3052
March 18th, 2012, 08:39 PM
With the grounding, is it a case of soldering onto the case, or could I ground it on the back of a pot? Why not just ground it on the output jack ground lug? I'm completely clueless when it comes to grounding (and everything else...)
Yep, that's the common way to do it. Make sure everything is tied together and the case is grounded just by tightening the jacks. If there's paint overspray through the hole, just file it off. If you use the enclosed plastic jacks you would have to find another way.