$vboptions[bbtitle]



Gun Stock Wax

MrTwang
February 11th, 2012, 05:24 AM
Hi,

I have an unfinished Telecaster body made of opepe with a walnut top.

I have never finished a body before and was planning on using Tru-Oil and noticed Gun Stock Wax from the same company that appears to do much the same thing (lustrous water repellant film that will not rub off unlike oils).

What are the reasons that I should or shouldn't use this instead of (or in addition to?) Tru-Oil?

Also, a really dumb question that I can't find the answer to - how do these products differ from domestic furniture wax/spray products that my mum used to use?

Thanks

nadzab
February 11th, 2012, 08:27 AM
Also, a really dumb question that I can't find the answer to - how do these products differ from domestic furniture wax/spray products that my mum used to use?

You don't take your mum's end table into the woods when it's snowing.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g179/nadzab/100_1903.jpg

(this was a raw walnut stock that I finished with Tru-Oil. It is a darn tough finish)

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g179/nadzab/RightClose.jpg

Keyser Soze
February 11th, 2012, 09:37 AM
Waxes are ok finishes on woods that do not need finishing (eg. ebony, rosewood, or goncalo alves.) They are marginal on somthing like walnut - ok for a piece of fine furniture or a mantle clock, but not something that is going to be manhandled like an electric guitar.

The wax simply is not that effective as a barrier, so moisture and grime will get into the wood, and then the walnut will age/discolor. You would also need to re-apply the wax on a regular basis to maintain even that minimal level of protection.

A third concern is that the B-C product contains silicone. Once you put silicone in/on wood about the only way to temove it is to burn it off.

Stick with the Tru-Oil.

PS That Savage looks awesome, is it finished with some sort of electroless nickel? And if so, who did it?

nadzab
February 11th, 2012, 09:53 AM
PS That Savage looks awesome, is it finished with some sort of electroless nickel? And if so, who did it?

Thanks, I had it Cerakoted - It was several years ago, I'll dig around and find the name of the guy I sent it to.

nadzab
February 11th, 2012, 10:00 AM
Here it is: A gentleman named Charley Santoni in CA. This is his website:

http://riflestockpainting.com/index.html

He did a great job - disassembly, bead-blasting, finishing, reassembly - and the price was reasonable.

MrTwang
February 11th, 2012, 10:05 AM
A third concern is that the B-C product contains silicone. Once you put silicone in/on wood about the only way to temove it is to burn it off.

Stick with the Tru-Oil.


Thanks for the info.

One more question - the instructions on the Tru-Oil say you can put some Gun Stock Wax over the Tru-Oil - would you recommend not doing that or is it OK since it wouldn't be going directly on the wood?

nadzab
February 11th, 2012, 11:40 AM
Thanks for the info.

One more question - the instructions on the Tru-Oil say you can put some Gun Stock Wax over the Tru-Oil - would you recommend not doing that or is it OK since it wouldn't be going directly on the wood?

Wax would be fine over the Tru-Oil once it's cured.

czook
February 11th, 2012, 11:53 AM
Tru-Oil is not oily and is more like shellac than oil. It applies fairly easily and it takes several coats to get a deep finish that is hard and glossy. Like most finishes it needs progressively wetsanded after you have your coats on and then you can wax it if you want.

Tom Pettingill
February 11th, 2012, 12:13 PM
While the repelling action of a little silicone might be beneficial on a gun stock that can see some wet and nasty weather, there is no compelling reason to use it on an instrument. There are many quality products that are silicone free and offer great protection.
Of course, silicone is only an issue when it comes time for a refinish, so you may or may not care.

And if its purly a shine that you want, you need to do that before the wax anyways. No amount of wax can substatute for a good job on the finish itself.

Here is some Tru Oil after final polishing, no wax.

.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g94/quarterbend/SB-002/sb-002-11s.jpg

Jack FFR1846
February 11th, 2012, 01:34 PM
When I was doing the Music Man type neck finishing with 2 quick coats of tru oil, wiping off after 45 seconds....I went looking for B C gunstock wax and couldn't find it. The gun store where I found the tru oil said to use any good car wax. I have plenty of zymol and have used it for the necks I've done and also for a body that I did 3 thick coats of tru oil, water sanding in between and polishing.

Colt W. Knight
February 11th, 2012, 01:44 PM
I like Tru Oil, but I find BC Gunstock wax sticky. I don't use it.