$5 router table

Yesterday I was about to buy a router table to replace
my lousy, warped, old, cheap table. Being cheap, I first
looked around at how to build one, but part of the problem
is that the insert is expensive (if you buy it).

Then I saw a Jack Well's post (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-technical/46067-home-built-router-table.html) showing that if you use a
Porter-Cable 690, you can build an ultra-simple table with
no insert -- just attach the router base to the table.

The table I made cost $5 -- $3.75 for the surface, and the rest
for a few stainless steel screws (10-24 x 1"). The surface gets
placed on top of one of those portable work tables.

Nothing original here; just sharing how simple this set up is.
I'm going to make another one that's wider than this.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XRzwHUt-j6Q/TlrvTojDA9I/AAAAAAAACZM/uxdWf5pRdWk/s400/IMG_8164.JPG

The surface after drilling and the hole saw:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7MICXNS0FSw/TlrvUOAIz_I/AAAAAAAACZQ/oYEsKuBLL2s/s800/IMG_8166.JPG

Note that the cheapest WorkMate doesn't work without
modification because the two top surface pieces don't
separate quite enough for the Porter-Cable base. The
pictured table is a Skil model.

Here's with the router adjusted to maximum height:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-s6OCPeYL9Zk/TlrvUVfE8pI/AAAAAAAACZU/moQ6E0s3Wog/s800/IMG_8167.JPG

View from below. The on/off switch is easy to get to.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FRhzL7s7UpU/TlrvUiabDWI/AAAAAAAACZY/sfP-BSytBC8/s800/IMG_8168.JPG

Edit: If you're not aware of the Porter-Cable 690, height
adjustment is made simply by twisting the router in the base.

Mighty fine. Mighty fine!

That's perfect for me. I'm gonna steal that idea!

sweet!!!!

Can't wait to set this up.

BD

Is that workmate sturdy enough? Still, looks great.

Is that workmate sturdy enough? Still, looks great.

Might want to hang some cinder blocsk or a 5 gallon bucket filled with water from the table to secure it up a bit.

:smile:

Good thinking there. Good job !!

That laminate shelving is nice as an auxilliary surface clamped to a workbench too. Glue pops off pretty easily. I put legs on one side of a piece I had here and made it the same height at my workbench. I can move it to where I want it depending on what I'm doing and c clamp it in place. I may have to put a router on it too now.... nice job.

And it is made here...giving somebody a job!

Great idea and very helpful. I've got a Bosch plunge router and I'm trying to figure out how to table mount it. The remaining challenge I've got it that it has got a "trigger" and safety catch mechanism that needs you to hold it for the router to operate. I have to figure out how to override that but still leave it safe to use. But with this inspiration I'm one step closer. Thanks.

If you make a 3/4" template of the routers base, on a ROSS spindle sander of course, then you can use a pattern bit to recess the router in your top. You can recess it by half the thickness, 3/8", and still have plenty of strength. This will give you an extra 3/8" height on your bit. You may find you need that extra height at times to avoid running the chuck up too high. Another plus is it's easier to align the base when you are putting it back on the table.

I have a Porter Cable 690 mounted directly to 3/4 in. Melamine with no recess for the router base. I can raise the router motor until the collet extends just a little above the table surface. Therefore for the Porter Cable 690 at least, no recess is necessary.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/NewAlbum2/DSC05917.jpg

Inspirational!

Is that workmate sturdy enough? Still, looks great.

The table I'm using is a Skil, which is definitely sturdy enough.

The main table I use for guitar work is the cheapest model of
WorkMate, which doesn't "open" quite enough for the P-C router
base to fit, but I'm going to see is sanding out just a small
area in the middle of the two top pieces will allow it to fit.
I think it would also be sturdy enough.

I have a Porter Cable 690 mounted directly to 3/4 in. Melamine with no recess for the router base. I can raise the router motor until the collet extends just a little above the table surface. Therefore for the Porter Cable 690 at least, no recess is necessary.
......

+1. If you look at the third picture I posted, the router is
raised to its highest position.

Jack - thanks a lot for that post of yours back in 2006 showing
that with the 690, no table insert is needed.

One last thing: it's possible to buy the 690 base separately
so that it doesn't have to be screwed onto the melamine
every time you want to use the table. It's Porter-Cable
part 1001.

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-1001-Router-2-Inch-Diameter/dp/B00004Y76Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1314620542&sr=1-1

Right ...... Before turning on you router you should always make sure you haven't raised it to maximum height. The collet would tear up your template.

When routing a body shape in shallow passes, one tends to pay most attention to the end of the pattern bit and may not realize the collet is above the table surface.

I've checked before and found that the bases are available but very expensive. I don't recall the price but it seems it was at least $60. I do all my cavity routing with a small laminate trimmer.

Amazon has the D-handle base for $87. They have the simple fixed base for $58.66. Just search Amazon for Porter Cable 690 Base

......http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41HuJjW0emL._SS500_.jpg