F-hole pocket

I don't own a thineline. But on my my Gibson 335, the inside of the f-hole pocket appears to be stained black. Is it typically painted black or left with a clear coat or what? It's hard to tell on the countless photos I've seen. I'm building one and want to keep it authentic. Any suggestions?

i believe there should be binding in the Gibson f-holes ... as for Fender, maybe not ...

i believe there should be binding in the Gibson f-holes ... as for Fender, maybe not ...

Well I'm talking about the actual cavity behind the f-hole. Is it painted, stained,...? I don't want someone who knows thinelines and says "hey! Why didn't you paint the cavity black" or whatever... In this photo it appears to be painted but again, it hard to tell. Thought someone have a definite answer....

90824

90825The ones made in Mexico didn't use to be painted. My brother had a MIM 69 thinline and the wood inside the hole was natural. That was 8 years or so ago. I just found these pics and you can see its natural.

And one with 2 humbuckers, also natural in the f-hole.

<img src="http://www.tdpri.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=90824"/>

<img src="http://www.tdpri.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=90825"/>The ones made in Mexico didn't use to be painted. My brother had a MIM 69 thinline and the wood inside the hole was natural. That was 8 years or so ago. I just found these pics and you can see its natural.

Hey man, thanks a bunch! I think I'll use a light stain for the inside pocket. That's really the only thing holding me back from glueing the top on. Them are some purdy guitars! Thanks for the photos. I've always been a sucker for pretty women and pretty guitars! I'll post some pics later after it's been stained, and the top is glued...

Hey! I grew up in Katy, TX. Where are you buying wood in those parts?

If you're incredibly worried about accuracy, you might already have a problem... As far as I am aware, the thinlines usually had the BACK glued on, unless it is some sort of a fancy top (maple, figured something or other, etc). Not a huge deal, just something I never thought about until I built a thinline-ish build.

Hey! I grew up in Katy, TX. Where are you buying wood in those parts?

If you're incredibly worried about accuracy, you might already have a problem... As far as I am aware, the thinlines usually had the BACK glued on, unless it is some sort of a fancy top (maple, figured something or other, etc). Not a huge deal, just something I never thought about until I built a thinline-ish build.

Houston hardwoods off 290 and 34th. Yeah it's a "fancy" top. They had some well figured lacewood. Kind of looks like snake skin. Heres a peek... The "main body" is black walnut. Here's a photo with the cavity for the f-hole cut and stained with a dark walnut stain. Ready to be glued up for the routing...

Some semis stain the insides black (ebony stain maybe), doesn't appear to be paint. Others leave it bare wood. Think it depends on the outer colour - do you want a "white" f-hole on a dark guitar?

I generally go with a stained interior, as I don't really like the look of a light
colored f-hole on darker top woods. It can be great with a lighter top though.

Here's bossé over mahogany with a light stain:
http://ricecustomguitars.com/instruments/images/169_1.JPG (http://ricecustomguitars.com/mid.html?rcg169)

And lacewood over ash with a darker stain:
http://ricecustomguitars.com/instruments/images/161_1.JPG (http://ricecustomguitars.com/mid.html?rcg161)

Yeah, that black one in the pic with the natural wood in the f-hole doesn't look too good to me.

I don't know about all Thinlines, but my '97 CIJ '69 reissue has an unfinished but very smooth interior. Dark stain might look cool. I wouldn't paint it though as paint can peel while stain is absorbed by the wood...


"I'll be the first one to admit that I don't play that well.
But Elvis didn't either, 'least as far as I can tell"...