The Inexpensive build #2

Hi folks.

As promised, I've made some headway with the wood that I've received recently. For those that didn't catch that thread, I recently received a block of Sapele, that looked like this...

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0427.jpg

and this...

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0429.jpg

At exactly 13 inches wide, my hand-made template left nothing at all either side, but left a little extra to play with at the top.

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0430.jpg

So, I took it into the outhouse that I call my *cough* workshop, and drew around the outside of my template.

Having little money for much in this build (surprise surprise), my templates aren't laser cut. I took the ed hawley/Terry Downs plan. Tile printed it onto A4 paper, taped together and photocopied onto two sheets of A3. Checked the dimensions, and all is ok. Taped to some 1/4" MDF, cut round with a Junior Hacksaw (:shock:), and hand sanded to within an inch of it's life. Hand drilled out the routs for the control panel and pickups. The F Hole, was only put in a couple of days before I started this build proper, once I had procured a router. And yes, it was freehand routed. All things considered, looking at the picture above, it turned out so much better than it deserved to be...

So, I took my blank and my jigsaw...
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0433.jpg

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0434.jpg

In grand tradition, it's a Tesco own brand.
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0437.jpg

£7, or $11 if you wish, for something from Britain's biggest supermarket.
Going to the local B&Q, I found some blades that would fit. At £1 ($1.60) for a pack of 5, I bought three packs, just in case.

And so I set about it with wild abandon... Starting by chopping the extra height away from the rest of the body.
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0439.jpg

before rough cutting the body. Very rough cutting.
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0447.jpg
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0448.jpg

Good start Gordon. Watch what that jiggy blade is doing on the bottom side of the cut , they are prone to wandering.

I used the technique of making cuts at right angles to the body shape to help stop the blade from drifting.

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0450.jpg

After taping some double sided tape to the back of the template, and clamping it down to the bench, I cracked out some router bits. First off, the top bearing bit...

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0452.jpg

For the record, the router was on offer from Screwfix for £22 ($36), and came with two bits (straight and roundover). One top bearing and one bottom bearing bit from the B&Q clearance aisle cost a tenner for the two.

So I started, very very carefully making passes with the router. Knowing how much I needed to take off, I did it in many, many takes. And it took forever. However, I wanted to reduce the tear out, and the thought of an unguarded bit spinning at several '000' times a minute still freaks me out.

I got about a quarter of the way round before I had to see my good lady wife. :-)
To be continued tomorrow...

A man after my own heart :mrgreen: That router looks very familiar :lol:

Too late now, but one of the tips I found here, for cutting out a body, is to drill holes every inch or two round the outline and then just join them up with the jigsaw. Minimises the wandering blade and is quicker than the many right-angled cuts.

Too late now, but one of the tips I found here, for cutting out a body, is to drill holes every inch or two round the outline and then just join them up with the jigsaw. Minimises the wandering blade and is quicker than the many right-angled cuts.

That is a really good idea. And like the best ideas, It's simple. Loke me :lol:

On the subject of the blades, I burnt through two blades from one pack, but two was enough to get through this incredibly dense, hard wood. At £1 for a pack of five (well, four wood blades and an aluminium one), it beat my expectations.

The blade that came with the admittedly cheap jigsaw snapped within two minutes of trying to cut through quarter inch MDF, :shock:

Glenn

Here's a pic of my sapele body getting cut.

http://damacleod.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/voodoobody02.jpg

Worked like a dream. Mind you just after I finished this stage I managed to get hold of a really cheap 14" bandsaw which has been a godsend since.

See? Your second effort already looks better than your first. That's a wonderful chunk of timber there.

Looking forward to seeing your progress.

Very quick update...

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0457.jpg

Finally got the top half of the outline routed.

Little tearout here
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0455.jpg

and here
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0459.jpg

Nothing a little sanding won't solve. One little bit that I would need to fill is right over where the roundover will go, so it's all gravy.

However, because I left the template on and clamped down overnight, some of the tape residue adhered slightly more than I wanted to the wood.
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0462.jpg

It also took a small chunk out of the back of the MDF template, but nothing that can't be fixed.

Flipped the body over and did the other half with the bottom bearing bit. Went pretty smoothly, plenty of sandpapering to come to get it totally presentable.
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0461.jpg

Glenn

I know why the pro's have full dust extraction systems in their shops... and the amateurs do it outside :-D

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0464.jpg

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0466.jpg

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0468.jpg

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0465.jpg

Save some of that sawdust! It is useful to have a small bag of it, because you can mix it up with CA glue for any spot repairs needed later on.

So, quite a lot of days between updates. Snails pace sums it up. Fine though, I've got all the time in the world :lol:

Routed the pickup cavities...

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0474.jpg

Router bit slipped slightly in the collet, but no big deal. The pickup will hide my sins.

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0475.jpg

So... As I'm not going for the drop top option, this is what I'm going to do...

Remember the piece that I chopped off the top of the blank?

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0469.jpg

I reckon if I rip them in two, I can try and make a set of rear covers.

Clamp clamp clamp

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0472.jpg

then drill drill drill...

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0473.jpg

then a combination of jigsaw (slow, burning smells), hand saw, (slow, aching arms) and finally, a bolster chisel and club hammer (quick, scary, ultimately successful) seperated the two halves.

Up to tonight, I have the first cavity cut out...
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0476.jpg

The sticking out parts were to be for the screws to hold it, but as you can see, we have a problem.

The first cover split when thinning it out. A crack went through along the grain, and Crack! :mad:

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0480.jpg

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0479.jpg

The other part of the cover will fit exactly to the first half already dry-fitted, once it's cut to shape. But not tonight.

Oh, and Mr Macleod, I have another 1700 bags just like this one. :lol: :lol: :lol:

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0483.jpg

The back covers will not be a tight fit by any stretch of the imagination, so they will be superglued permanently down. I'm kind of crossing my fingers that a superglue/sawdust combo will fill these gaps once they've been fixed in place.

So, what's the process? How much sawdust to how much glue? Can I use the use-once tubes from poundland? Is this even a feasable idea?

I wasn't sure if having grain going across from the main body was such a good idea. Now... I'm warming to it.

I would think plain wood glue witht hat dust would do the trick. But I am really guessing here. I would just fear CA would set up and still have some gaps to fill.

Quick mockup shot. My neck pickup came in the post today, I'll need to put an order in for a pickup ring as soon as I can. Only found the one place that does them. Strange, I'd thought all my usual sources would have them. No way I could put a pickguard over this lovely grain!

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0481.jpg

http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac269/gordongecko82/Sapele%20Build/PIC_0482.jpg

Which is code for... you might find a pickguard over this lovely grain if I end up with something to hide! :lol:

Wood glue + sawdust works fine for me; put a few drops of glue between your fingers, add sawdust, and start rolling them together. Soon, you'll have a putty. Add either more glue or more dust to adjust the viscosity. Then, just fill your gaps.

Practice a few times before you do it for reals, and it's always a good idea to do finish samples to make sure it won't come out all dark and scary.

So, what's the process? How much sawdust to how much glue? Can I use the use-once tubes from poundland? Is this even a feasable idea?
That may be a big gap to fill with the CA glue/sawdust combo - unless you can find a really cheap source. The way I do it is to wick the glue into the gap, wait until it starts to go tacky, and then dust the surface with the sawdust and massage it in with my finger. Dust on more sawdust and then give it a light sand, and keep repeating that - allowing the sanding to drive the sawdust into the CA glue and level the surface. It takes a few goes to get the hang of it so it is worth practicing on scrap. You might want to try whatever you've planned for the finish on your test pieces, because it does create a surface that is less porous than surrounding areas, as I found to my cost when applying a water-based dye to a quilted maple top.

That may be a big gap to fill with the CA glue/sawdust combo - unless you can find a really cheap source.

Is that regular superglue, or am I getting my terms mixed up?

The way I do it is to wick the glue into the gap, wait until it starts to go tacky, and then dust the surface with the sawdust and massage it in with my finger. Dust on more sawdust and then give it a light sand, and keep repeating that - allowing the sanding to drive the sawdust into the CA glue and level the surface. It takes a few goes to get the hang of it so it is worth practicing on scrap. You might want to try whatever you've planned for the finish on your test pieces, because it does create a surface that is less porous than surrounding areas, as I found to my cost when applying a water-based dye to a quilted maple top.

Thanks for that info. I'm going to test everything beforehand. I can't see why it wouldn't work. It doesn't look to me like an insurmountable gap to fill, but I'm still a novice when it comes to this stuff. The idea of grain filling already gives me a bit of a headache :shock:

Is there an alternative to this to fill something that would blend in with the surrounding wood? I know if it was going to be a solid colour, it wouldn't be an issue. Fill it with whatever you like then primer/paint it - no-ones the wiser. :roll:

Glenn

Is that regular superglue
That's what I've used.

Is there an alternative to this to fill something that would blend in with the surrounding wood?
Not that I've tried but it would be worth experimenting with other glues. For something like a larger gap Titebond Original might work. Also, because you're not talking about a structural joint, perhaps any old white PVA would be fine. You just want something that dries clear.

Is there an alternative to this to fill something that would blend in with the surrounding wood?

Read my post from this morning. That's what results from wood glue + sawdust, rolled into a putty.

You could also use white glue; either way, make sure you use really fine sawdust... the kind that results from sanding, not from sawing.

No pictures today - not so much to report to warrant them.

The second half of the 'snapped cavity cover was rough sanded to shape. Fits like a glove to the other piece (as well it should), and leaves the same small gap all the way around as the other piece. Before I can think about the sawdust putty idea, I'll need to superglue this sucker in, then sand it down as flush to the body as I can.

Because the covers are at cross-grain with the rest of the body, I'm going to have to mask off the rest of the body before starting with the belt sander - too much to take off by hand, and if you've seen the planer I've got on the old thread, you know it's not a good idea. Is masking tape good enough protection, as long as I don't go about it with recklessness? Sanding across the grain is bad, even with my limited knowledge :lol:

Band practice tonight, so I don't have to worry about it till Friday.

Regards,
Glenn

I've received just about everything that I have ordered. Quick rundown...

1. Neck pickup - £5.75 - free postage
2. Maple neck blank - £16 delivered - from a thoroughly decent guy from the forum.
3. Dual action Truss Rod - £6 delivered, from Warman Guitars.
4. Fretboard blank - £7.21 delivered - again from an ebay auction.

I don't have everything I need, but I've got all I need to get started until payday rolls around again :lol:

Brother Hawley's neck template has been printed off at work, and is ready to drop off at home later on. It's coming together.

Quick question about the fretboard blank... Just got delivered today.
It was listed as 'Seasoned Afromosia' - checked it out on Wikipedia - protected species :shock:

Stated in the listing though that this piece is at least 20 years old, and it's beautiful.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqUOKkME29ypz)sQBN)wKCsDP!~~_12.JPG

Much darker than the picture shows, It's actually a good match to the Sapele that I've got already.

Here's the question, this piece is 20mm thick (0.78"), and because of how nice this piece is (and it's really really nice), is there any way that I could get more than one board out of it? It seems a real shame to sand away three quarters of it, especially as the chances of me picking another one up is slim.

Any ideas chaps?

Glenn

Glenn ............ this build looks nothing like your last one ???

Glenn ............ this build looks nothing like your last one ???

Ah, but you haven't seen the last one I did :wink:

Build 1: Two floorboards + no power tools (or any decent hand tools...)
Total cost: £6

Build 2: 'Butchers block' pine table + 1 hand held belt sander (plus the tools from build one)
Total cost: £27 (including finishing with real paint! :roll:)

Build 3: This one, with decent wood, + belt sander and hand router.
Total cost so far: £55 (Yikes!)

-------------------------------

If you could see number two, you'd see more of a natural progression. I'm not at home tonight, but if you want to see a pic, just holler.

Oh and for the record, I never want to make another guitar like my first one... Ever... Again... And it's about time I made a 'real tele'. After all, it is a telecaster forum he he :razz:

Glenn

Glenn you probably want to find a local ( or far away ) woodwork workshop that has a bandsaw. Thats the tool for that job. If you have a further ed college nearby that does woodwork courses they might help. Its a 5 minute job is all.
Failing that you could do it with a ripsnorter but that is wide open to accidental damage if you don't know how to use it safely. What are we looking at here , 90mm wide ?

...What are we looking at here , 90mm wide ?

580mm x 60mm x 20mm according to the specs online. Haven't measured it myself yet, but looks about right. Definitely wide enough for a decent fretboard - doesn't leave much spare mind...

Glenn

I urge you to find a bandsaw for this if you can , however if you can't I assume you can get your mitts on a 'Snotter. If the board is 60 mm then you need to cut from each edge about 35mm ( thats the depth of the blade in use ) the problem you have is keeping the saw stable and at 90 deg to the edge of the blank. Think in terms of clamping a couple of bits of 2 x 2 to either side of it to keep the base of the saw flat , but then you need to find a way of guiding the saw down the middle of the blank. You said 20mm so takeaway 3mm for the saw cut leaves lets say 16mm at best therefore gives 8mm per. Thats plenty for a fretboard assuming you dont need to plane off too much. The bandsaw will take less on the cut so you will be golden if you can get it done that way.

Good hacking chief.

Hey Glen, enjoying your build very much. I purchased an identical piece of Seasoned Afromosia from the same guy on Ebay recently. As I'm light on power tools, and like to do things the hard way, I ripped it down by hand and got two 6.5mm fingerboards out of it! Nice and steady! Good luck.

Save some of that sawdust! It is useful to have a small bag of it, because you can mix it up with CA glue for any spot repairs needed later on.

It's too coarse. Put the dust catcher on the sander and save that for wood repairs. Using large wood chips/pieces allows too much room for voids that will be difficult to deal with later on - glue will be where wood should be.

It's been a little while since an update. Pictures to follow, just not tonight... It's been a long one.

The rear cavity cover was superglued in place - no real issues there. After a successful test piece with regular wood glue and fine sawdust, I set about filling the gaps. It leaves the areas covered much darker than the bare wood, and sanding the slightly proud cover, even with protection put a couple of small gouges in the main body wood :oops:

The rear cover is thick enough that I could plane down the whole back of the guitar, cover included, and both remove much of the glue overspill and fix the small gouge (that I have filled, but not to satisfaction).

As my body template had an 'f' hole in there, again I thought prudence would be best, and tried to make a 'clone' template onto a very small piece of MDF, instead of going straight to the body. One slip of the router bit, and blam, one fixable, but heavily chipped master template.

I have already made one 3/4" neck template from the leftover's of build #2, and routed my maple blank for the truss rod I received. I wanted a low-hassle, heel adjustable neck - no need to worry about drilling headstock access and all that, till I realised that I had routed the nut end at the headstock end. :cry::cry::cry:

All three things are fixable: It might not end up being the most beautiful back in the world, but I can do something about it. I just won't have an 'f' hole in this build now anyway, and I can live with a headstock adjustable neck. Just glad that I try and test most things before doing it for real.

It's just that these are the kinds of nights that sap your motivation. I'll bounce back though.

Glenn

Glenn,

When you have a night like that, and we all have them, take a step back, chill out, have a glass of wine (or whatever) and come back at it fresh the next day. Things will look better, and you'll have a plan on how to fix things up. Don't ask me how I know!