F hole question

Just a quick question...

Ive made up a set of master tele templates, and, not knowing what I might go for in the future, added a thinline f hole, using one of the thinline template files here on the forum. Routing freehand, it came out pretty special.

My question is, what size bearing bit do you use to rout out your body blank when working from a template? Nothing I can find in stores has a narrow enough cutting blade to get through the narrow parts of the f hole, and if I'm going to order online, I want to get it right first time.

Thanks again,
Glenn

No bearing is needed with smaller bits. Use the bit shaft to follow the template's pattern.

I cut the f-hole using a scroll or coping saw, then clean up with a little sanding.

I do the bulk of the F hole with the 3/8" stew mac pattern bit and then the areas that it can't get into, I saw out the waste and just use a small file followed by sandpaper.

Here:
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/263212-thinline-tele-build-2.html#post3117274

Thanks guys for all the help.

I checked it out with my narrow straight bit in the router (but not turned on), and it passes through all sections fine using the shank in place of a bearing.

Should the shank stay true with the blade underneath it? It seems that it would be fine, but I've got images in my mind of the bit taking out either a little too much or too little compared to the original template.

I'm at work now, and all these things are circulating in my mind - I guess the only way to really know is to get in there and do it. :lol:
I've got some wood on order, but because of the huge volume of Bank Holidays this month, everything is delayed.

I wouldn't mind, but I've been working overtime on all these public holidays. Keep thinking about the money, eh?

glenn

No bearing is needed with smaller bits. Use the bit shaft to follow the template's pattern.

+1

A plain-old 1/4" straight flute bit makes quick work of an f-hole ... the only things to be careful of are: where the flute joins the shank doesn't cut, but it can mar your template after a while - so the template needs to be thick enough so the cutting edge of the flute is in your top wood, and there is sufficient template on the smooth shank.

Also, using a small diameter straight flute bit can make it prone to tearout on the "uphill" sections of the F-hole, against the grain. If you can cut out most of the material first, you'll get a nicer edge, but this really depends on how new your bit is and what wood you're using.

I always cut the f-hole before I glue the top to the body. I use a 1/4" bit with a 1/4" bearing. It has never failed me on the 6 thinlines I made.

Rockler has them: #33158 is the 1" tall version.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11322

I always cut the f-hole before I glue the top to the body. I use a 1/4" bit with a 1/4" bearing. It has never failed me on the 6 thinlines I made.

Rockler has them: #33158 is the 1" tall version.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11322

Thats how I do it.