Ya'll Instigated this Mess, now help a Bro out!!

Prior to discovering TDPRI I was just a normal starting out guitar player who was happy to buy things from the music store. Fast-forward a year and this site has inpired me to grand delusions, and my wife finally caved and bought me a brand new soldering station for working on guitars and amps.

I've never soldered before, but my dad has and my father in law is a master solderer. However, due to some sickness in respective families, neither one is available for the time being.

I have the Hakko FX-888. My goal is to eventually build amps from kits. I would also like to do the BillM upgrades on my Blues Jr.

For now, I picked up one of those little light kits to practice on. I've seen it suggested to get an old stereo to work on as well.

My problem is this, being very carefully minded (as I'm very adverse to personal injuries), I started by reading the manual. It stated that each time you change a tip, you need to recalibrate by using a tip thermometer. I understand the basic concept of recalibration, but am wondering if you all have any suggestions on which thermometer to purchase for this purpose. I could only find one for over $200.

I have searched here and other places online for threads that would shed some light on this subject and couldn't find anything.

Also, for those of you with variable temp stations, how do you know where to set the temp depending on what you are working on?

I would like to get these answered before firing up for the first time. Can't wait to get some experience under my belt...

Honestly, I am so very grateful for all the awesome help I get from this site. Thanks for helping us newbies!!

I'm not really sure what the recalibration is intended to do. Could you shed some light on that? Maybe it is because your dial has temperature values and you need to calibrate to get that right (just guessing).

I have a relatively cheap elenco variable temp station and I treat it as a tool -- turn it off when not in use, don't touch the tip (on purpose) to my skin...those are about the only two hard and fast rules I follow.

As far as what temp to use for what jobs, it's really a feel thing for me. My station has a knob with 4 colors around it. From yellow to red. When I am soldering something with a lot of metal (a pot back, for instance) I crank it pretty high -- when I solder something with very little metal (smd components or microcontrollers) I put it as low as I can and still melt the solder quickly. For through-hole and point-to-point wiring (like pickups to switches and the like) I put it somewhere in the middle.

I set my Weller at about 650 to 700 degrees. You're reading too much into it, just get to work, you'll figure it out

I'm not really sure what the recalibration is intended to do. Could you shed some light on that? Maybe it is because your dial has temperature values and you need to calibrate to get that right (just guessing).

First of all, I really appreciate your quick response, that does help as far as where to set the temperature.

You are exactly right about the dial having temperature values on the dial. So, they say to put a thermometer on the tip and adjust it until the value matches the read-out. Hopefully that makes sense.

I guess I am looking for someone to say, "the recalibration of the dial isn't important, because it's more of a feel thing rather than a hard fast temperature rule" or perhaps "you absolutely have to have it calibrated"...

Sounds like it may be a feel thing...

Your tip temp should be from 600-700 F.

Relax... use 63/37 solder is best... 60/40 is ok too. In either case use ONLY rosin type solder.

It IS a feel thing... the more skilled you become... the more impatient... and as such you raise the temperature to get things done faster. Regardless of skill always use lower heat when soldering metals attached to plastics.

Start out with the knob between 5 and 8 and you'll be fine...

As long as your finished joint is shiney, looks "hollow" or concave, and looks wet... you did it right. If it grey, grainy, convex, or blob-ish... you did bad.

Google "how to solder" and you'll see pictures of good and bad joints.

Thanks, ya'll. That helps calm my nerves. I am going to get started tonight. I really appreciate it!!

The only near perfect soldering iron in world is a METCAL... and they DON'T come with consumer price tag.

So with normal human irons... keep this in mind... soldering little things can be done with lower temps. Soldering onto the back of a pot... there's alot of material to heat up... so go ahead and crank it... In all cases you only want enough heat (related to temperature) to get the job done. There is a thing called a "cold"solder joint... this is when the solder didn't "wet" onto the surface... also caused by corroded surfaces etc... On the other hand there is no such thing as a "hot" solder joint... rather there is such a thing a destroyed part.

do yourself a favor...

LESSONS! (http://terrydownsmusic.com/solder_video/soldervideo.html)

I've soldered for years and years but I learned a bunch from terry on some very simple things and I think, based on your post, you'll appreciate the knowledge coming from the king of soldering, TDPRI guitar and creator of great things for all of us... Mr. Terry Downs (who is also a killer guitar player!)

it is well worth the money, he hips you to the best supplies, methods etc.

do yourself a favor...

LESSONS! (http://terrydownsmusic.com/solder_video/soldervideo.html)

I've soldered for years and years but I learned a bunch from terry on some very simple things and I think, based on your post, you'll appreciate the knowledge coming from the king of soldering, TDPRI guitar and creator of great things for all of us... Mr. Terry Downs (who is also a killer guitar player!)

it is well worth the money, he hips you to the best supplies, methods etc.

Thanks, Getbent. I do plan on purchasing his lessons. I just kinda used up my "allowance" on this paycheck and wanted to mess around with it a little. I actually found Mr. Downs lessons during my TDPRI searches prior to buying my iron. I definitely will be checking out his video prior to doing anything with my guitar or amp. Again, thanks so much for tip.

Thanks everyone for your gracious responses, us new guys really do appreciate all the help you vets give us. You all are the greatest!! Love this forum...

Never forget that a good solder connection starts with a good mechanical connection. If you can't get a good mechanical connection, make sure you don't move the wire being soldered to the pot case while the solder's still molten. That'll make for a cold-solder joint which is bad.

The best teacher is practice, practice, practice. Now go have some fun!

But always wear eye protection, and never never wear shorts. A shiny, glossy soldered connection is what you want. A dull grey pitted one is not. Have fun, and practice a little with some piece of junk!

I soldered up a little $2 light kit tonight. Everything worked really well. There were two lights. One of the lights wasn't as bright as the other. I don't know if it was supposed to be that way, or if I messed up. Oh well, I just wanted to go through the process one time.

I wear regular glasses all the time, but I probably should get ahold of some actual safety glasses. Fact is, I think I have some around here somewhere.

BTW, my wife said I could order one of Terry Downs videos next paycheck, so that'll be something to look forward to.

Wish I had another one of those light kits to work on...

1) Use 63/37 solder and the problem of wiggling while it cools is all but gone.

2) Don't go overboard looping, folding, twisting your wires/leads around things. You may need to take something apart.

3) Practice taking things thing apart...

...and get a solder sucker (I don't know what else to call it). When you are undoing things, it really helps keep connections tidy for rewiring.

...and get a solder sucker (I don't know what else to call it). When you are undoing things, it really helps keep connections tidy for rewiring.

I bought one of those and some solder wick. The guy at the store said that the sucker is great for desoldering the bigger stuff and the wick works on the smaller stuff.

Maybe I will desolder what I put together last night and put it all back together again!!

Do you all have any input on what I should practice on next? Maybe something that won't electrocute me, perhaps? I've seen a 70's stereo suggested.

I wasn't born until '77, so if someone would tell me how to identify one I would be so grateful...

Remember I am building towards working on amps...

Maybe I will desolder what I put together last night and put it all back together again!!

Now you have it! Excellent idea.

And the $20 you'll spend on Terry Downs' DVD will repay itself dozens of times.

So I desoldered my little light kit. I think I may have fried some of the components. I think my iron was hot enough, but I don't have the knack of the wick, yet. Anyway, I'll keep at it.

Thanks again, everybody!!

Get the lessons. Well worth it.

I'm a tech trained by the Navy back in the 70's and we had (expensive) dual iron stations with built in vacuum pumps for desoldering. The desoldering side could be switched to 'blow' to clear the tip: we used to hold the tip up near an ear to hear the hiss to make sure it was clear. A friend held it to his ear one day, it was set to 'blow', and he blew a blob of solder in his ear.


This was the origin of break dancing.


It was cool to watch, though.......




.

Most wick out there is just junk... really.

And a large part of the reason is that it is usually not treated with flux.

Get yourself one of these:

KE1803-ND from Digi-Key... about $5... Phone: 1-800-344-4539

It's like a felt tipped marker. You can apply some to your solder wick and let it sit for minute. Then your wick will work right. You can also use it to get stubborn things like pots clean before you solder... and other crusty stuff

You can also buy "chemwick" brand wick... always look for "RA" "RMA" or ROSIN based flux... this has flux built in.

Don't count on buying this junk at a local store... it just doesn't happen... and if they do have it... it ain't fresh... this pro gear.

:wink:

Most wick out there is just junk... really.

And a large part of the reason is that it is usually not treated with flux.

Get yourself one of these:

KE1803-ND from Digi-Key... about $5... Phone: 1-800-344-4539

It's like a felt tipped marker. You can apply some to your solder wick and let it sit for minute. Then your wick will work right. You can also use it to get stubborn things like pots clean before you solder... and other crusty stuff

You can also buy "chemwick" brand wick... always look for "RA" "RMA" or ROSIN based flux... this has flux built in.

Don't count on buying this junk at a local store... it just doesn't happen... and if they do have it... it ain't fresh... this pro gear.

:wink:

Thanks for the tip, I will look them up!!

I repaired audio gear professionally for 20 years and thought my soldering skills were just fine, then got a job repairing studio VTRs for a well known Japanese pro/broadcast equipment manufacturer with a four-letter name. Everyone there added a drop of flux rosin to the joint before heating and soldering it (indeed, it's nearly impossible to replace an 80 pin surface mount chip without doing so).

I've since moved on to working for the Cosmodemonic Codec Company, but always keep the items below on my workbench at home and use them every time I work on guitars and amps.

http://www.pemro.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=KES-1083&eq=&Tp=

http://www.pemro.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=PLA-1010&eq=&Tp=

Lots of folks don't use flux rosin because they're convinced that it's not necessary due to the presence of flux in most solder, but if you've never used it you wouldn't know the difference. I've re-soldered many a connection in guitars and amps that caused intermittent problems, so it's clear that most musical instrument manufacturers don't know either.

Get on their website and print some pages from their catalog... all kinds of soldering goodies there.

:)

BTW: A gallon of flux will last about 16 lifetimes for most, so if you can get a smaller size or split it with someone I recommend doing so. Also, you'll need a small plastic funnel to get it into the dispenser.

I just ordered Terry Downs DVD, so it should be here in a few days.

On the Flux, I will look into that site that is referred, but I already bought a small container of it to start out with. As I have been working with it, it seems messy (go figure). What do you guys suggest using for an applicator? Toothpick, Q-Tip, something else?

Thanks again for all the help!!

I just ordered Terry Downs DVD, so it should be here in a few days.

On the Flux, I will look into that site that is referred, but I already bought a small container of it to start out with. As I have been working with it, it seems messy (go figure). What do you guys suggest using for an applicator? Toothpick, Q-Tip, something else?

Thanks again for all the help!!

you'll get a link with Terry's dvd for products you'll need.... several addressed in this thread in quantities that will make sense and work well for you....

make sure to explore it! most of all, have fun!

On the Flux, I will look into that site that is referred, but I already bought a small container of it to start out with. As I have been working with it, it seems messy (go figure). What do you guys suggest using for an applicator? Toothpick, Q-Tip, something else?

Sorry...I should have provided more detail there. You only need to use a teeny weeny drop of flux...that's why the Plato dispenser linked above is, well, indispensable.

Good luck with your soldering!

Our brother member Terry Downs has a Soldering tutorial. You will learn all you will ever need right there.

Received and watched the Terry Downs DVD. Extremely informative. Thanks you guys for the recommendations. It makes me want to tear all my electronics apart so that I can resolder everything! :lol:

My buddy thinks I am sick because I was showing him a couple of things I practiced on and was going on about how beautiful and silver the solder joints were.

I must admit that I wasted some solder just because the silver blobs were so beautiful to look at...:oops: