Hipshot B-Bender question

Wanting to install a Hipshot B-Bender system- but before I do I just wanted to know if any modifications need to be made on a vintage style Fender Tele bridge? Just don't want to modify my original 52 re-issue bridge- I would rather buy a decent repro bridge and modify that.

Thanks for any help that can be offered! Cheers

No.
The instructions say to install two screws in the plate on both sides of the rear strap lock, but I just used a little larger screw in the rear strap lock and glued it in and it was fine.

i think the OP is talking of the vintage ashtray bridge, with the "lip" on 3 sides...in my experience i've found it necessary to file notches or, best, to drill holes in the back of the bridge for the "bent" string to travel so they don't "ride" on the lip edge.

i have the very best results by drilling hole in the back of the bridge lip (similar to the P/G bender set-up) for the B/G/ and A/big E strings to travel thru. gives much better "down-force" across the saddles.

if you are using a B bender only then just a single hole is all that is required; i like multi benders myself, so i require 3, sometimes 4 holes.

if you want to keep the original bridge intact, then scout around on EvilBay for a dual load replacement vintage bridge if you're not confident in drilling your own holes.

Also, you can... and I did... buy a Hipshot bridge which will have all the holes drilled out. Six of them, one per string, so you would be covered in any situation.

And you would keep your other bridge, in case you want to sell the guitar or what have you.

Otherwise, you'll be needing to drill or have a hole drilled, or put notches in an ashtray bridge.

I agree with Bender-freak. It's best to have a hole drilled on the ashtray, or to notch it. Drilling is better to me.

Larry brings up a good point about buying a pre-drilled ashtray. I didn't even know they sold those. Make sure you get the right one (3-way or 6-way) for your guitar.
My 2¢
Will

Shim the neck (something the thickness of a medium pick) and raise them saddles. That's what I do. I also use a threaded saddle for the B/E, and add two screws at the front of the plate. Fuzzy pic but you get the idea:

http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/ac218/sunnyland_photos/IMG_1271a.jpg

Thanks all!

Fezz,
I alwayz avoid zhimming the neck. In my experience, it alwayz mezzez with the rezonance of the guitar. I like that neck tight in the pocket. I alwayz drill holez in the bridge plate. I have a drill prezz though, zo that kinda ztuff is eazy to do accurately.

It can, there's no doubt. With a wood shim, I've never had a problem.:grin:

I have always drilled the bridge too. Another thing I do that I think helps a lot is I got some Teflon tubing that is just a little bigger inside diameter than my low E string. I make the holes just big enough that I can push a piece of the tubing into them. Then the strings slide through with much less friction...strings return to pitch very well doing this. Anyway, I always felt like it helped.

That's what I use too. Bicycle brake cable liner.

To all my new Hipshot brethren-

You've all been a TREMENDOUS HELP on this matter- so much so- that I just ordered my Hipshot bender and Hipshot bridge with the holes already predrilled! I love the idea of using the bycicle brake cable liner- assuming I can get this at my local bike shop.

Now- once I have the parts installed- the real work begins.......... learning proficiency on this new instrument. I am a Hellcaster (Will Ray), Albert Lee and Brad Paisley fan, so this music and perhaps Senior Ray's instructional videos will be my starting educational material.

Please post anything else that you all would recommend to further my inspiration and study.

Deepest gratitude to all of you- Fran

The Hipshot website has an article from a British guitar magazine that says either drill hole(s) through the plate or rasie the saddle(s) in order for the string(s) to go over the lip of the plate.

The author actually said raising is better than drilling.

I'm thinking of getting a Hipshot. Drilling through metal is not something I've ever done before. Wonder what Matt would charge just do the whole thing . . . ?

M hipshot came with some teflon tubing. Im gonna guess that you wont need to vist your LBS (local bike shop).

Here is a cool trick for holes drilled in the bridge - cut a 0.1" or so section of plastic tubing that is slightly undersized of the hole (I used the shaft of a plastic q-tip) and thread it thru the hole. Then use a small flame to melt the tubing. It will roll back and create a lip that wont let it slide thru the hole in that direction. Now put the flame on the other side. Voila' the hole is lined with a nice sliding surface for your string bending. I did find it helpful to quickly shove a section of old guitar string thru the plastic immediately after the flame while it is still soft.

M hipshot came with some teflon tubing.


Yes, the Hipshot comes with the tubing.

I don't like notching the plate, nor raising the saddles. Drilling will give you the needed downforce to not lose sustain on that string. The best thing is to get a top-loader bridgeplate. That way, all the strings have the required, and equal downforce on the saddles.

I agree with jmiles. I'd rather have a hole in the bridge plate than a notch. I've got a pretty steep angle from saddle to string hole and I use a Delrin insert provided by Dave Evans....teflon tube provided by Hipshot works perfectly well. Never break strings, and plenty of down force....no loss of sustain, or string wandering on the saddle when doing manual bends.