Minimum bandsaw for guitar work.

Hi friends!
I am decided to buy a band saw, but I dont know exactly what to buy, I have one of these cheap small over the table good for nothing.

I will apreciate some advice in the minimum dimensions, power, blades etc I have to have in mind to buy mine.

I am looking to an 1000w 1,5hp that runs in home voltage

max cut width 345 mm
max cut height 200 mm
cut speed 438 / 900 m/min.
saw long 2.490 mm
workbench 548 x 400 mm

It can run 6 to 15mm blades

Ill cut bodys, necks and resaw few tops to bookmatch..

What do you think?




:confused:

That equates to SAE 14" bandsaw with an 8" re-saw capacity. That will work.

thanks 4strings.

The boy who beats the drums with me is an experienced carpenter and says that this will be a little just just... but he is used to work with other logs and works... more industrial...

For me is an expensive tool because I will not earn money with it, at the momment....:confused:

And the prices for everything here are more expensive than there.

If dont find nothing in second hand ill surely go for this or similar...

Buy a decent 14" saw and it'll probably last a lifetime. I've never found the need for a table saw for luthiery after owning my Delta 14" and fence with 24" rails.

Buy a decent 14" saw and it'll probably last a lifetime. I've never found the need for a table saw for luthiery after owning my Delta 14" and fence with 24" rails.

I use my table saw more than my bandsaw.

I use my table saw more than my bandsaw.

In Europe, due to saftey regulations, it is forbidden to use a moulding cutter or dado blade on a tablesaw. The regulation says something like the cutting blade must be visible to the operator. For this reason manufactures do not make saws with spindles that accept stacked blades. Not for the last 30 years or so.

If your cut has to separate the piece (not panel) in two, you might as well use a bandsaw.

In Europe, due to saftey regulations, it is forbidden to use a moulding cutter or dado blade on a tablesaw. The regulation says something like the cutting blade must be visible to the operator. For this reason manufactures do not make saws with spindles that accept stacked blades. Not for the last 30 years or so.

If your cut has to separate the piece (not panel) in two, you might as well use a bandsaw.
Well that sucks. I love my tablesaw. I start with rough cut lumber, and I couldnt imagine milling without onr.

I just have a little 9" bandsaw, but am definately wanting to get a 14". I also need a table saw, to get a straight cut right now I use my straight edge and a template bit on my router.

I use my table saw more than my bandsaw.

Different Strokes for Different Folks....:-) Between the jointer, router, and bandsaw....99.9% of the bases are covered. The only time I ever wanted a table saw for guitar building is to provide a kerf on both edges of a board for resawing and that made the resaw cut that much less.

That equates to SAE 14" bandsaw with an 8" re-saw capacity. That will work.

Definitely!

Get a nice "Viking" (aka Timberwolf) blade on there and you will have a nice setup.

The bandsaw is one of the best tools to have in a shop.

I have a table saw, not soo good but works and dont use so much, to get a real straight edge you need to go to a expensive one, I think.

I need the bandsaw to cut the wood for the router, I was doing it with a hacksaw and a serie of holes to follow, but it is a pain, and the result is bad. A band saw will ease my life a lot.
And some times I can resaw for a top, but twice a year.

And for sure I will find more uses than rough cut bodies and necks.

I am very envy of you that can buy a ryobi spindle sander (i think this is the name) with the little belt sander :mrgreen: my belt is a little bigger, and I can not find a spindle in spain

Thanks for your help, I will look in secondhand market first... but if is there any, sure it will be with industrial voltage an industrial price too...

I had a cheap bench top band saw when I first started out then when I got more orders I had to buy something that was going to last. I ended up buying a 14" Porter Cable bandsaw and I can't saw enough great things about it. It has 16"X16" table which adds plenty of support for a guitar body.

http://www.portercable.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=24029

In Europe, due to saftey regulations, it is forbidden to use a moulding cutter or dado blade on a tablesaw.

Hmmm. . . from a region that allows men and women to race alongside of livestock down the middle of a street with no easy exits.

I use a small Ryobi 9 inch bandsaw for all of my rough cutting. It is not enough saw to re-saw bookmatched tops though.

All my personal power tools are of the desktop variety because I do not have a place to keep them other than a shed.

Hmmm. . . from a region that allows men and women to race alongside of livestock down the middle of a street with no easy exits.

This is religious talk.... :mrgreen:

I have one of these smallest, could cut a couple of necks but broke the saw, and a body... I think that will be impossible a all.

I have an old Sear Craftsman 10" benchtop bandsaw that works okay. I've cut a few necks and bodies out with it now. No real problem, but I used to live close enough to a Woodcraft that had a wood shop available. There, I used the bigger Jet and Delta ones they had... that was much nicer, and safer!

the little 9" one I had was great for pick guards and small detail stuff but if I tried putting hard maple through it it would bog down bad.

Different Strokes for Different Folks....:-) Between the jointer, router, and bandsaw....99.9% of the bases are covered. The only time I ever wanted a table saw for guitar building is to provide a kerf on both edges of a board for resawing and that made the resaw cut that much less.
I think the table saw is very important for making jigs and jointing efficiently.

I think the table saw is very important for making jigs and jointing efficiently.

You might not feel the same way after getting hit in the "nads" with sheet plexiglas being kicked back at you . :-) I was merely pointing out that it isn't an essential machine for everyone. A good one is costly and takes up a lot of space. If I were doing cabinetry, it would be a must but all I really do is guitar work and for me everything is do-able with something other than the table saw.

I have a table saw, not soo good but works and dont use so much, to get a real straight edge you need to go to a expensive one, I think.

I need the bandsaw to cut the wood for the router, I was doing it with a hacksaw and a serie of holes to follow, but it is a pain, and the result is bad. A band saw will ease my life a lot.
And some times I can resaw for a top, but twice a year.

And for sure I will find more uses than rough cut bodies and necks.

I am very envy of you that can buy a ryobi spindle sander (i think this is the name) with the little belt sander :mrgreen: my belt is a little bigger, and I can not find a spindle in spain

Thanks for your help, I will look in secondhand market first... but if is there any, sure it will be with industrial voltage an industrial price too...

You can get away with a 10 or 12 " , but I would recommend a 14" , at least 3/4 HP , 1 to 1 1/2 HP even better , next to my ROSS (ridgid spindle sander) my band saw is one of my most used tools .

You might not feel the same way after getting hit in the "nads" with sheet plexiglas being kicked back at you

Well, the table saw really terrified me, I use it the less I can, I prefer to buy the lumber or sheets cut and trued from the store... I am not comfortable with it :sad:

Thanks for your help, to all, now I will search for the best price for one of these... for curiosity, what is the price for a machine like this in your country?


:mrgreen:

For a saw with a cast iron table €500
For a saw with a cast iron frame + >=500mm wheels €1200

A decent 14" goes for $400.
to $500. new

For a saw with a cast iron table €500
For a saw with a cast iron frame + >=500mm wheels €1200


Yes, these are the prices in europe, in spain can be more, I am looking in this pdf for the HBS 351-2, now it is a 10% off, plus 18% tax, if it is over 600€, shipping is free, it is included taxes 573€ If I add some blades I am in free shipping....

http://www.maquinariamadrid.com/docs/ask-tornos-sierras%20verticales.pdf

A decent 14" goes for $400.
to $500. new

Yes, and ..... in dollars....

And salarys twice than here

I would generally choose a bandsaw on quality first then capacity. I have a 9" Delta - it has urethane tires but only a 1/3HP motor and a small Aluminum table - I got an awful lot done on that saw. Then, I got a 14" bandsaw that was totally out of balance and the tires would not even stay on: So I eventually got a 14" JET with 12" resaw capacity and a 1.5HP motor and it is amazingly useful and I use my 9" for cutting smaller stuff now.

I am looking in this pdf for the HBS 351-2

Nice saw. Fair price.

With a saw like that you'll make new friends.

With a saw like that you'll make new friends.

For sure he he he
I can see now a couple of them comming with the logs underarm (and a couple of beers of course):mrgreen:

Every tool I buy will be the last, I say "well, i am ready now" but it is worst than GAS, my appetite for tools are insane.

I would generally choose a bandsaw on quality first then capacity.

True. Fine tune a tool is not always easy... some are simply trash... but there are things that exceed the capacity and you must growup

I always buy a tool to solve a problem, but some times I get 5 or 6 problems more...

Depending on how much work you do, a scrollsaw could be an alternative to a bandsaw.
Jack Wells recently did one of his fascintating threads on this subject:

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/254755-*scroll-saws*.html

Depending on how much work you do, a scrollsaw could be an alternative to a bandsaw.
Jack Wells recently did one of his fascintating threads on this subject:

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/254755-*scroll-saws*.html

Very interesting post, and useful...

Here, a scrollsaw like these can be as expensive as a band saw, and I think the band saw have very more uses than this tool very good for marquetry, but it seems a little soft for cut 50mm of hardwood...

I "can" do it with a jig saw too, and this is the way I have done till now... but... its a PITA

It might be hard to comment on specific models that you have available, since many of them are brand-specific depending on who's having them manufactured overseas. You do start to see similarities, however, because the same factory might make a blue one, a white one, and a green one with different labels and only slightly different features.

Keep in mind that most bandsaws we see here in theS are a very old design made out of cast iron; you can spot them because they're round on top and on the bottom. The basic size for homeowners and small pro shops has a 14 inch wheel and about 6" resaw capacity (maximum thickness of cut); you can put a riser block to stretch the frame up to almost 12" resaw capacity. Delta and Jet are common brands for these beasts which are pretty common.

We're starting to see more "European style" saws (you might be amused by that, just like there's no such thing as "French toast" there). Anyway, a "Euro" design saw has a hollow square steel frame and it's boxier altogether in shape. Laguna would be the grandaddy of that style. With the same size wheels, a 14" Euro style box frame saw usually has greater resaw capacity. You don't have the option of stretching it with a riser block, but you do get maybe 8" or so resaw - which means you can make your own bookmatched veneers for drop tops on an electric guitar body, or make your own 8" long radius sanding blocks. I have a Sears Craftsman "Professional" model that's probably coming out of the same factory as the Rikon models except it does not have a quick release blade de-tension lever.

Another difference you might notice with modern bandsaw designs is the blade guides. Older style saws just have lube-impregnated phenolic blocks, whereas modern features include various orientations of ball-bearing guides.

Now take a look at as many online woodworking magazines as you can, they usually do roundups every two years or so with comparisons of the features and prices.

Thanks Vizcaster for your valuable information.

Really, the design of a bandsaw is not rocket science... two weels... the table...
the important thing is the quality of components, the durability, security, accuracy and the ease of tune-up, you are luky you have usa made saws there, here chinese tools are the one, at least at this price.

My 14" bandsaw gets used 10 times more than my table saw. It will handle just about anything.

It's resaw capacity is only about 5 1/2 inches... but my darling wife bought me a riser kit for Christmas which has increased that to almost 10 inches.

My 14" bandsaw gets used 10 times more than my table saw. It will handle just about anything.

It's resaw capacity is only about 5 1/2 inches... but my darling wife bought me a riser kit for Christmas which has increased that to almost 10 inches.


I think too this is a very versatile tool... with a metal saw you can cut bone.... aluminium... shells... brass...fingers :mrgreen:

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Oscillating-Edge-Belt--Spindle-Sander/EN/index.htm

Thiiiis is the machine i have envy of... this! The Ridgid spindle sander, I post other brand above, this is the little thing that will be next.... if I can find in 220volts



:cry::cry::cry:

i looked around out of curiosity. this is the best i could find: http://www.comercialpazos.es/b2c/index.php?page=pp_producto.php&md=0&codp=9541

its still 100 euros more than the holzstar, but it's in spain and it has a base stand with wheels. this site looks like the spanish version of woodcraft or rockler here in the US. i'd bookmark it if i lived in spain because it looks like they have alot of good tools.

realistically, the holzstar HBS 351 and lombarte are more than the "Minimum bandsaw for guitar work". if you are just cutting alder/poplar bodies and 1 inch maple necks then the holzstar HBS 251 would work. it's a 10 inch saw, 80mm(3.14 inch) cutting height and a 350 watt motor. people on this board use the 9" ryobi to make guitars. the HBS 251 looks like a much, much better machine. mojotron in this thread: "I have a 9" Delta - it has urethane tires but only a 1/3HP motor and a small Aluminum table - I got an awful lot done on that saw."

for the record i have a 14" delta, 3/4HP, 6" recut, chinese made. yes, we are lucky to have US built saws but they are not cheap in the US either. i bookmatch drop-tops on a tablesaw then a sawzall, but a handsaw works too.

the answer to your question really depends on your budget, how much building you are planning to do, and what other machines you have already in your shop. i think the minimum for heavy duty production work is a 14" like the HBS 351. if you are going to make a few guitars a year and are missing important tools in your shop get the HBS 251. use the extra money to buy the ridgid ROSS and a voltage converter, or a jointer, dust system, spray rig, whatever you need. a 14" bandsaw is really a luxury item.

i looked around out of curiosity. this is the best i could find: http://www.comercialpazos.es/b2c/index.php?page=pp_producto.php&md=0&codp=9541

its still 100 euros more than the holzstar, but it's in spain and it has a base stand with wheels. this site looks like the spanish version of woodcraft or rockler here in the US. i'd bookmark it if i lived in spain because it looks like they have alot of good tools.

realistically, the holzstar HBS 351 and lombarte are more than the "Minimum bandsaw for guitar work". if you are just cutting alder/poplar bodies and 1 inch maple necks then the holzstar HBS 251 would work. it's a 10 inch saw, 80mm(3.14 inch) cutting height and a 350 watt motor. people on this board use the 9" ryobi to make guitars. the HBS 251 looks like a much, much better machine. mojotron in this thread: "I have a 9" Delta - it has urethane tires but only a 1/3HP motor and a small Aluminum table - I got an awful lot done on that saw."

for the record i have a 14" delta, 3/4HP, 6" recut, chinese made. yes, we are lucky to have US built saws but they are not cheap in the US either. i bookmatch drop-tops on a tablesaw then a sawzall, but a handsaw works too.

the answer to your question really depends on your budget, how much building you are planning to do, and what other machines you have already in your shop. i think the minimum for heavy duty production work is a 14" like the HBS 351. if you are going to make a few guitars a year and are missing important tools in your shop get the HBS 251. use the extra money to buy the ridgid ROSS and a voltage converter, or a jointer, dust system, spray rig, whatever you need. a 14" bandsaw is really a luxury item.

Thanks for you comment, perhaps now are a luxury tool, but I want to buy my last band saw for guitarwork, I am tired of buy undersized tools and buy twice, now when I buy a tool, I want the best I can pay (not so much), and dont want to have to rebuy because a inadequate save.

The place I am looking is here in spain, and I have bought a press for frets a couple of years ago, and they are serious, they sell more metal machinery www.maquinariamadrid.com

Comercial Pazos are known between guitar-maker-aficionados here in spain and I take a look in his web, the one I am looking for is the best euro for watt... and I have a radial drillpress from lombarte and I am not very happy..... and here shipping are free and I will make the base with drawers for saws and tools...

The ridgid.... well, first I need to reorganize the shop and fire all the ***** that are there and think... and work and go on... lets see...

I am tired of buy undersized tools and buy twice, now when I buy a tool, I want the best I can pay (not so much), and dont want to have to rebuy because a inadequate save.


Thats the way to buy tools.
The best bandsaws come from Europe so you should have no problem finding a good one, as long as your budget can allow it. Another nice thing is you probably run 220v standard in your home which makes things easier, as long as you can fit a large breaker in your panel.
I have a 16" 3HP saw and think that is about the best size for guitar work if you plan on doing serious guitar related resawing as well.
Would still go bigger if I could. :rolleyes: