Makore Thinline- First build, lots of questions!

Hi, I've been following builds on these forums for a while but I just now started my first project and decided to join. I was hoping to get some insight on a few issues from some fo you. So far I just have a body and neck. I got the body from delta.luthiery on ebay; it's a Thinline made out of Makore (a close relative of mahogany). The only routing I had done was for the control plate, the f-hole, regular tele bridge and neck pups, as well as an additional pickup- a P90 that is just a 1/2" below the regular tele neck pup. The neck came from Musikraft's ebay "custom shop", and it's one-piece high grade dark flame maple with a beautiful amber oil finish. The body is not finished.
Anyways, this is my first time doing anything like this, and so far I haven't purchased any literature so I have lots of questions. My dad is a skilled carpenter with lots of tools so he should be able to help me with additional drilling and whatnot, and I also have someone who is going to help me with electronics. Right now, my question is about finishing the body. The seller told me that the wood, makore, finished similar to mahogany. So I guess my question is, any ideas on what to do? The top wood is nicely figured so I'd like to have somewhat of a "natural" finish, but I wouldn't mind if it had a little bit of brown stain or lacquer in it. A dark brown gloss would be cool. Unfortunately, I know nothing about the process of finishing wood, so can anyone give me some ideas or point me in a direction?
Also, here's what I have in mind for the rest of the project (so far):
-Staggered gotoh style locking tuners from GFS
-Wilkinson compensated brass saddle bridge (also from GFS)
-B5 Bigsby (bridge would be slotted)
As far as pickups go, I was hoping for some input as well. Originally, I was just planning on getting a cheap pair from GFS or might mite, but I've been pretty intrigued by what I've heard about Bill Lawrence Keystones and was thinking about ordering a set of those. For the P90, I was maybe gonna spring for a T-Armond from TV jones, but they cost a pretty penny and any other suggestions would be appreciated. Also, any information about what type of nut I should get would be helpful as well. Thanks.

I have built a hollowed out Tele with a mahogany back and makore top. I filled the grain with CA glue (super glue), then finished with clear lacquer. Turned out beautifully. I get compliments on that guitar consistently.

Cool. I was actually under the impression that I probably wouldn't have to use grain filler, but as I said, I'm really ignorant in the field of finishing and it's certainly great to hear from someone that's actually worked with makore before. I don't suppose you have a picture of how it turned out?

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/205722-project-custom-thinline-photos.html#post2406042

heres a link to my project thread...tobacco burst on mahogany.

Cool. I was actually under the impression that I probably wouldn't have to use grain filler
The makore was a bit more "grainy" than maple. I tend to like to seal with CA glue anyway, and the finish turned out great. The flash lightened the color a bit - it's actually a deeper brown than that in person.

Looks interesting .I like that neck .As to pickups I use Tonerider Vintage P90's replacements in my Richwood Thinline .They are very good IMHO ,Alnico II and not harsh or too hot.They clean up nicely .The neck one drives a valve amp perfectly for me .A good price and high quality.They make a hotter pair as well but the Vintage suit me fine .

As for the finish I would start buy reading so basic refinishing at ReRanch ( http://www.reranch.com/basics.htmshing ) for you first guitar I would also consider buying your supplies from them. The only advice on the actual finishing process I can give is when you think you’re all sanded and ready sand again there’s no rushing you have to take your time. You will read or have read all kinds of methods, what product to use they all work with each method or product you can have Good & bad results back to taking your time. You will just have decide what’s best for you.. Now pickups well you no thats another no right answer question for what it’s worth I used Tonerider hot classics on my Tele (http://www.tonerider.com/) e-bay about $80. They sound pretty decent to me not my favorite sounding guitar but my only Tele style. The nut BONE. Anyway looks like your in for some fun remember guitars have absolutely no aerodynamic quality’s.

Yep, bone or a graphtec graphite nut. Definitely wear a mask and long sleeves when working on that Makore. A lot of people can be allergic to Makore dust. Nasty stuff if you are. Here is a list of toxic woods. Makore is listed as an irritant. http://www.mimf.com/archives/toxic.htm

RULE NUMBER ONE for finishing is:

PRACTICE ON SCRAP!

Period.

You have a gorgeous body and a gorgeous neck there, so don't cheap out on the hardware, pickups and electronics.

Mahogany generally needs to be grainfilled, but it's no big deal. The Reranch website (as SacDAve linked to) will give you a good schedule and instructions on what to buy and how to do it.

Good luck with it, I can't wait to see the finished guitar!

RULE NUMBER ONE for finishing is:

PRACTICE ON SCRAP!

Period.

I'd love to, but unfortunately I chose a body made of a fairly uncommon wood to make guitars out of. I've actually considered purchasing a scrap piece of makore, and I suppose I will, but the top is a high grade flamed makore veneer, and it's pretty different compared to the rest of the body.

ReRanch definetly seems like a good place to get the supplies, but even after reading some of their info, I am still not very confident about the whole finishing process. Does anyone know where I can get a step-by-step guide to grain filling? Also, I think I am probably going to do a clear laquer finish now, but I was also considering throwing in some of the "medium brown" or maybe "dark walnut" alcohol based wood dyes for sale at ReRanch also, but I was going to either only do it on the main part of the body (and not the bound veneer top), or I could do the opposite... and maybe even one of those dyes on the back and the other on the top. Any thoughts from anyone?

By the way, I went ahead and ordered the bridge and neck pups. I went with the Bill Lawrence Keystones. The P90 is still up in the air, I'd love to get a TV Jones T-Armond, but then I'd end up having spent $200 just on pickups for this guitar.

I would suggest that you not color the top in any way.

Get some mahogany to practice filling on. I seriously recommend you try CA glue for filling, especially if you are going to finish in lacquer.

Check out www.mimf.com - the Musicians and Instrument Makers Forum. TONS of great info there on building and finishing - including CA glue pore filling.

I would suggest that you not color the top in any way.

Get some mahogany to practice filling on. I seriously recommend you try CA glue for filling, especially if you are going to finish in lacquer.

Check out www.mimf.com - the Musicians and Instrument Makers Forum. TONS of great info there on building and finishing - including CA glue pore filling.
Your advice not to color the top is good enough advice for me. That's a nice site, although I still couldn't find exact instructions (like a tutorial) for grain filling. However, I talked to someone and they're going to help me through it the first time.

So, as of right now I guess I'm planning on grain filling with CA glue, and then finishing with a clear laquer. I'm still considering mixing in a little bit of color (brown) for the back and sides of the guitar for contrast... with this in mind, is there any reason I should NOT use CA glue to fill the grains on that part? Also, does anyone recommend not using the CA glue at all and going with something else? I'm just trying to hear a couple different people's opinions so I can weigh them against each other.

Did you register at MIMF? If you do you can go to this link for SEVERAL specific articles on grain filling, including using cyanoacrylate glue:

http://www.mimf.com/library/catalog_finish.htm#filling

WEAR DUST PROTECTION - MAKORE DUST IS HIGHLY TOXIC.

Makore has a very high silica content - the dust can burn your lungs and cause sbads skin irritation. Be careful.

It is a beautiful wood and planes nicely - just watch out for the dust.

You could order a l609 or l610 from bill lawrence. The 610's are p90ish and the 609s are more jazzmasterish. You can get whatever inductance you want, so I'm sure you could get one that works well with the keystones.

http://guitarsbyfender.yuku.com/topic/3046/t/L-609-s-L-610-s-options-and-characteristics.html

You can see them in a guitar here:

http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12274

When applying the CA glue to fill the grain, I guess I should probably mask the binding? Also, to what extent should I try to fill the grain in the routes (for example, the inside of the f-hole)? Should I go ahead and apply it to the back as well, even if I might put a little bit of color there?