weird idea:trem/Bigsby for only certain strings?

Am trying to see if any creative machinists or tinkerers can think of a way to mod a Bigsby (or other trem, i suppose, but Bigsby preferred, as this idea would end up on a Tele), so that the trem would only affect the top 4 or 5 strings, leaving the the 5th and/or 6th string unaffected. I read somewhere that EVH actually did this, but I cant find any details.


Im doing a lot of Indian and Middle Eastern music, so i need these descending ( ideally, both directions) glissandos via the trem on the melody strings while the tonic on either of the lower strings stays constant. I do play a fretless guitar which is perfect for this, but i'm feeling the need for an instrument with more stable , sustaining chordal possibilities that can give those melodic microtonal nuances as well.

Hipshot and palm pedal ideas are kind of the right concepts in terms of look and feel, but are bending in the wrong direction for my purposes :)

any thoughts?

I think you don't even have to mod the trem if you use a standard Telecaster bridge. Just make a notch in the bridge where the strings to the Bigsby have to go over, shim the neck, and you're set.

yep, use a B5 with an old school 3 saddle bridge. notch behind the saddles near the intonation screws for clearance. you could even drill out some holes on the back lip so you can top load the bridge since you'll probably need to shim the neck to use the B5.

sounds interesting.

I think i understand.... im planning on using a standard Tele bridge anyway as oppsed to the jazzmaster rig, probably a modern style (non lipped) with six saddles due to the intonation needs of the tuning i use -- (CGCGCF)...

So if I understand you correctly, I'll just string the two lower strings through the body per usual, and the others through the Bigsby?

could it be that simple?? if so, i was way overthinking this :) wonder what kind of tuning /stability tone difference issues ill run into....

Yes, it actually would be that simple. But use the classic 3-saddle bridge with the lip, and notch the rear edge where the strings pass over. The new-style 6-saddle interferes with the string travel, and there's no room to notch it for clearance.

One thing to note though - the string spacing on the Bigsby is narrower than the Tele bridge, so there is some "fanning-out" of the strings as they pass over the bridge. Unless you have grooved or notched saddles, they may tend to slip together.

I just did one of these, and used grooved saddles:
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/teleblooz_photos/101_1442.jpg

teleblooz, what a pretty axe! :)

the problem thats keeping me away from a three saddle is intonating the non-standard tuning of CGCGCF, low to high...

You might look at a "classic-style" 6-saddle to see if there's enough space between the saddle adjustment screws to cut the notches. I think those have the grooved saddles as well, in which case the spacing issue would be moot.

Like one of these:

http://www.axesrus.com/Hardware/Bridges/Telecaster/Vintage/Fender/VintageFender6Saddle/FenderVintage6SaddleBottom.jpg

WickedGTR,
that would do the trick, thanks! looks like there would be enough room to notch. Ill check to see if Callaham or Glendale makes something along these lines...

I don't believe they do. The one pictured is a Fender.

http://www.fender.com/products/search.php?partno=0990810000

thanks...that would do the trick, or at least close, except for the notching. It would be nice if there was an after market version of this a la Callaham or Glendale with perhaps a good steel or brass plate, brass saddles, etc. A dual loader set up would take care of the notching issue as well.

Callaham doesnt offer anything like that, nor does Glendale. Taipan i suppose could custom make one.

while we're on the subject of spacing, Im terribly confused by different specs: in looking pretty extensively at Allparts, Darren Riley, Callaham and Glendale, string spacing can run the gamut from 2 1/16 to to 2 3/16. How do i know whats correct, and more importantly, is it a crucial enough difference in spec to pass on to the person who's building and routing the body for me? I found an intriguing home Tele body builder on ebay, seems to be reputable, etc. I checked his feedback and it wasnt all about shipping, several nice remarks on good fit.

I bought one of those cheap Hofner style trems from GFS to do the same
as you/but also the opposite:

As you want-- use for one string, BUT get a short spring so I can bend UP an aprroximate full step (pull up on trem arm that would be near the body)

This is for a 30" scale 4 string Dano 63' bass that is in the shop finishing up converting to 6 string E-E Tic-Tac bass