2010 TDPRI $210 Challenge-????Caster

Bought this piece of 8/4 hard maple yesterday.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/8-4HardMaple.jpg

Can't wait to see what you come up with.

And the plot thickens! I don't see myself doing anything but hitting refresh on my browser for the next two months. I'm excited you've joined the fray.

should be a good one

Maybe I should just beg out now... :mrgreen:

Go Jack

you do good work....and are the reason I completely decided to change colors on my USACG BUILD.....this will be epic, I knows it already

Don't expect too much guys. Still searching for an idea.

build a telecaster with it.

Yeah! Fendorst has the right idea!
Serious though Jack, I'm glad you joined! This should become an entertaining and educational thread to say the least.

Don't expect too much guys. Still searching for an idea.


My light bulb lit bright today, decide on some details. Changed the mantelcaster to the mental caster, just could not edit the OP / Thread title... ;)

Don't expect too much guys. Still searching for an idea.

Haha! You're reputation precedes you and now you have to live up to it!
Even if you built a run-of-the-mill tele (which you never do), I'd still be interested because you write some of the most informative, interesting threads.

I purchased an 8 ft piece of 8/4 hard maple ~ 8 in. wide. Actually it was a little less than 8 in. wide and less than 2 in. thick but they write it up as a 2x8. In theory I could get three bodies from this board. However there is checking on each end of the board. I've chosen to allow 3 in. waste at this end.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05309.jpg

Here are the two pieces that will make up the body. By joining the common edge in the center, you get a less visible joint line.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05311.jpg

Cost Calculation:

2x8x(16+19)=560 cu. in.

560/144=3.89 board feet.

3.89 x $4.36 = $16.95 + 5.94% tax = $17.96

My career hasn't allowed me to do any work on this project until today. I start by taking off some of the excess width from the boards which will make up the body blank.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05312.jpg

After running them through the jointer we're ready for the glue-up.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05316.jpg

Clamps in place.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05317.jpg

Glue squeeze-out wiped away.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05318.jpg

Since this wood measures just a hair over 1 3/4 in., I've decided not to run it through the thickness planer.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05314.jpg

Instead I'll use the belt sander and orbital sander to smooth it out.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05323.jpg

I attach the template to the blank with two screws ......... one in the bridge area and the other between the neck pocket area and neck pickup cavity area. Then I trace the shape and cavity outlines.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05321.jpg
......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05324.jpg

A trip to the bandsaw................

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05325.jpg

.... yields this.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05326.jpg

Looking good so far.
Is this going to be a standard tele, or have you got something more exciting in mind?

I always rout my body shapes using 'downhill routing' as depicted in the following diagram making several shallow passes.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/New%20Album/BodyRouting.jpg

This is as far as I could get with the template.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05327.jpg

I had dropped the bit into the collet as far as it would go. After removing the template there still wasn't enough bit to finish the job so I raised it in the collet about a half inch. There's still plenty of shaft in the collet.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05328.jpg

As you can see, now the bit can be raised high enough to finish the job.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05329.jpg

Body shape routing completed. The remainder was done in three passes. Some in earlier threads have spoken in a negative manner about my 'downhill routing' technique and some have actually said it caused tearout. I think they may be a little unclear on the concept or are inexperienced in the use of routers. Here we have a 1 3/4 in. body made from hard maple with no tearout.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05330.jpg

Is this going to be a standard tele, or have you got something more exciting in mind?

Hmmmm............. Let's see........... you can buy a standard Tele. Why build something you can buy? It won't be a typical Tele but don't expect something too exiting either.

Predrilling cavities with a Forstner bit.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05331.jpg

Here's a little trick for getting your control cavity depth correct. Lay a piece of 1/4 in. material alongside the body and adjust the bit depth until it touches it.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05332.jpg

Cavities done. Next up ............ neck pocket.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05334.jpg

My neck pocket template attaches with the same screw holes as the body template so indexing is automatic. Since this template is only 1/4 in. MDF, it's good to have a pattern bit that's only 1/2 in. long.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05337.jpg

First router pass after predrilling the neck pocket.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05338.jpg

Neck pocket routing complete. It measures 0.630 in. deep ....... close enough.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05339.jpg

Enough for today. Now it's time for Lost.

Lookin good!

As my Old Man would've said: If I didn't know better I'd say it looks just like a guitar! Nice going Mr. Jack!

Here's my set-up for drilling the jack hole. One could probably make a simple jig for doing this job. In fact, I seem to remember that Ed Hawley designed just such a jig.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05340.jpg

Well, this step in complete. Here's the outside...........

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05343.jpg

...... and here's the inside.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05344.jpg

I may try to build a neck for this project. In my earlier neck building I used an edge guide that ran along the back side of my curved channel jig as shown here.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/DSC05062.jpg

Build threads by others have shown a better method so I modified my jig by attaching it to 1/4 in. MDF and adding rails for the router to run between. After getting a good snug fit, I waxed the inside of the guide rails and the top of the curved rails. The router base now moves smoothly and easily.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05349.jpg

Here I've used my neck template to trace the neck outline and mark the centerline and nut lines.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05350.jpg

Three small strips of double-stick tape are attached to the jig. The jig is then aligned to the centerline and the nut line on the blank. Then I predrill the blank drilling through the two screw holes on the curved rails and firmly attach the jig with 1 5/8 in. drywall screws.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05351.jpg

After setting up the router I'm ready to go. I've set the plunge stop so no wood is cut at the high point of the curved rails. This is the only operation in building an electric guitar where I feel a plunge router is necessary. Well it's probably not even necessary here but it helps.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05352.jpg

After three of four passes the channel is complete. Man-o-man. The modified channel jig really works great. May have to start some more necks.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05353.jpg

Rough cutting the neck shape.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05354.jpg
......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05355.jpg
......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05356.jpg

In the future, I'm going to attach the neck template with screws but for now I'm using tape. From past experience I've learned to use a lot of tape. Six pieces here.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05357.jpg

Ready for the final pass.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05358.jpg

Shape routing complete ........... no tearout. I used 'downhill routing' and shallow passes just as I did on the body. Before removing the template, I will drill 1/8 in pilot holes for the tuners and transfer the centerline and nut lines to the edge of the neck.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05360.jpg

Jack, thanks for the very thorough descriptions and photos. Per my previous thread about routing the body.....there is more than meets the eye to doing all this. Or so I am learning.

Your work and jigs look great.

Marking tuner pilot holes in headstock with 1/8 in. bit.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05361.jpg

Marking nut lines on edge of neck.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05363.jpg

Drilling 11/32 in. holes for vintage style tuners. The top of the headstock is held against a clamped straight edge to ensure constant distance from edge of headstock.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05365.jpg

Thinning the headstock on the bandsaw.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05367.jpg

Well, this could have gone better. I had drawn a line at 5/8 in. so I should be able to thin it to typcal Telecaster thickness with no saw marks showing.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05368.jpg

Cleaning up the face of the headstock with the Wagner Safety Planer.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05369.jpg

Here's my Melvin Hiscock jig for drilling the headstock hole. Sure makes you wish you had one of those neat Ed Hawley jigs.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05371.jpg

Drilling the anchor hole. This was a screw-up. I set the stop on the drill press wrong and almost drilled through the neck. I glued in a short piece of 1/2 in. dowel and will redrill.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05373.jpg

The headstock-fretboard transition is roughed out with the spindle sander.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05375.jpg

Final sanding is done by hand with the sanding drum.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05376.jpg

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05377.jpg

Jack, if you would not mind, might you comment on the utility functionality of the top/platform for your drill press. Particularly the square insert. And is that cut out on the right for access to the crank to lower it, and or other function ??

Sure Robert. Here are a couple of pictures of it. It measures 16 by 31. The cut-out on the right side allows the height adjustment crank to pass. The one on the left allows access to the table lock. The cut-out in the center is 1/2 in. deep and allows me to drop in various inserts (1/2 in. MDF) with different size holes for various drill bit sizes to prevent tearout as the bit exits the workpiece. In the forground is a special insert with a pin. I use it when drilling my string ferrule holes. The 31 in. width is especially helpful when working on necks, providing support for the neck when drilling tuner holes, fret marker holes etc.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/New%20Album/DSC04336.jpg

It's attached to the drill press table with carriage bolts, washers and wingnuts. It can be removed very quickly if I need to attach a drill press vise.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/New%20Album/DSC04334.jpg

Thanks, made notes ;)

Did you see my post on my ferrule install method I did last time ? It is in my Mantel caster 2010$210 thread..

I used the template on the back basically, and it worked well for me. When I had tried the pin method, I think my old press or I went a-rye. ;)

Here's my set-up for drilling the jack hole. One could probably make a simple jig for doing this job. In fact, I seem to remember that Ed Hawley designed just such a jig.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05340.jpg



I wish I had this kind of clearance on my drill press. But I've found that using handheld drill is perfectly adequate.

Nice work.

First step is to reattach the body template and drill part way through the body (around 1 in.).

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05378.jpg

After removing the template, I see that the hole alignment is a little off. They must be in a staright line at this point.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05379.jpg

I glue in some 1/8 in. dowels......

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05380.jpg

.....and saw them flush using a hacksaw blade with the teeth hammered flat.

.....http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05383.jpg

After drying and sanding, I attach my old plexi-glas template and start over.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05384.jpg

I install my ferrule insert into the drill press table and align the 1/8 in. brad point bit with the pin.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05385.jpg

The body is placed face down with the pin inserted into the first hole. Then I drill a hole from the back to meet the hole from the front. The body is shifted over to the next hole and the process repeated until all six holes are drilled from the back.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05386.jpg

A 3/8 in. Forstner bit is installed and aligned with the pin. The drilling precedure is then repeated for all six holes. Didn't get a picture of the drilling.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05387.jpg

I drill my holes a little deeper than flush and bevel the holes with a grinding stone.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05388.jpg

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05390.jpg

Drilling the wiring channel

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05391.jpg

Here you see the Terry Downs Bridge Pickup Cavity To Control Cavity Drilling Safety Device. It really wasn't necessary here but is useful if you're working with a thinner body.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05392.jpg

Just weighed the body. That hard maple is heavy. It weighs in at 6 lbs. 9.9 oz. I need to find a way to lighten it up a little.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05393.jpg

Again, nice work. That alignment pin is pure genius. (Actually it's just good ole fashined smarts!)

Nice work Jack!

great job indeed and very good pics. helpful to a lot of people i'm sure
keep going!

Mr. Wells,
You are the craftsman of all craftsmen. I marvel at your tenacity and precision.

Regards,
Terry

Thanks guys.

In my previous post, the body weighed 6 lbs. 9.9 oz. Well, I was able to achieve a substantial reduction in weight. A 3 lbs 3.1 oz. reduction.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05413.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/?action=view&current=DSC05413.jpg)

The following steps got it to this condition.

My special template was attached to the blank and traced onto the body.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05394-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/?action=view&current=DSC05394-1.jpg)

I drilled a bunch of holes inside the traced lines. Probably a lot more than needed.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05395-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/?action=view&current=DSC05395-1.jpg)

The body had a big ugly gouge that I needed to get rid of.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05396.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/?action=view&current=DSC05396.jpg)

A little time on the Hitachi CW40 scroll saw ...........

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05397.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/?action=view&current=DSC05397.jpg)

.....yielded this.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05398.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/?action=view&current=DSC05398.jpg)

I reattached the template and headed to the router table. When routing these interior cavities, the chips have no place to go but up.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05400.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/?action=view&current=DSC05400.jpg)

Pattern routing complete.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05402.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/?action=view&current=DSC05402.jpg)

All edges were then rounded with a 1/8 in. roundover bit.

The picture above may not show it but the interior surfaces have a lot of bit burn. I removed some of this by attaching sandpaper to a 3/8 in. dowel chucked into my drill. I'm planning a natural or transparant finish so all the burn marks must be removed.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05408.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/?action=view&current=DSC05408.jpg)

Drilling the wiring channel for the neck pickup required good aim.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05404.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/?action=view&current=DSC05404.jpg)

Cutting the side of the neck pocket with a hacksaw blade.. The treble side of the neck pocket will have to be shaved down a little once the neck is fitted.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05409.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/?action=view&current=DSC05409.jpg)

Here it is in its current form. There's still a lot of handsanding to be done.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05412.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/?action=view&current=DSC05412.jpg)

Seen that result/template somewhere before. ;)

Yep ........... similar theme to my previous Acrylicaster but this one won't have the acrylic covers. Also no solid color paint to hide mistakes/repairs.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/X-Caster/ButtEnd.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/X-Caster/?action=view&current=ButtEnd.jpg)

Very nice! I wonder how that would feel to play with all the holes in it - I'm guilty of resting the thumb of my right hand against the body quite a bit and I bet if I played that guitar I'd keep inadvertently sticking my hand through it!

Yep ........... similar theme to my previous Acrylicaster but this one won't have the acrylic covers. Also no solid color paint to hide mistakes/repairs.



Wow... Some amazing work there, Jack. Loving where this is headed.

If there will be no Acrylic covers, why did you keep the bumps where the screws for the covers were located? Going to replace the acrylic with something else?

:grin:

The bumps are in the template. It's easier to leave them in than to take them out. Besides, they add an element of interest along with other 'bumps' found elsewhere.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05422.jpg

The following are the steps involved in making the truss rod.

First a piece of 1/2 in. round steel rod is placed in the anchor hole and marked with a hacksaw blade.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05367-1.jpg

The rod is clamped in my 1/2 in. rod sawing jig and cut with a hacksaw. I cut it a little shorter than marked.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05415.jpg

Here's the anchor.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05416.jpg

I chuck it into the drill press and round it a bit with a file.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05417.jpg

The anchor hole is a little deeper than the channel at this point. I put the anchor in the hole and mark the bottom of the channel on the anchor with a scribe. This is going to be the bottom of the truss rod hole in the anchor.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05419.jpg

Drilling the truss rod hole in the anchor.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05423.jpg

Tapping the hole in the anchor.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05424.jpg

Filing a notch in the back of the anchor.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05425.jpg

Threading anchor end of the truss rod.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05426.jpg

The anchor is threaded onto the truss rod, snugged up tight then the rod extending out the back side is peened over into the notch.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05427.jpg

The excess is filed away.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05428.jpg

The truss rod is inserted through the headstock hole and the anchor put in place.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05429.jpg

Next step is to determine where to cut the rod.

I like the pattern in your cutout body more than anyother I've seen. It just looks good without a covering.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05412.jpg

When I saw that hard maple was being used for the body I had my suspicions, Jack! :grin:

I hope we get to hear this one :cool:

When I saw that hard maple was being used for the body I had my suspicions, Jack! :grin:


Man, but he wasted a lot of toothpicks, didn't he? :mrgreen:

I am impressed that you routed out all that maple, and had no tear out what so ever. I hope to be as good as you with a router some day.

You can fool some of the people all of the time, and all of the people some of the time, but you can't fool Nick.

Truss rod continued.................

I mark the point where the truss rod exits the top of the hole with a silver Sharpie.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05430.jpg

I measure the depth of the 3/8 in. hole from the same point...... 1.58 in.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05431.jpg

I measure the length of the threaded portion of the truss rod nut.......0.708 in.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05432.jpg

I decide I'd like about 1/4 in. of rod in the 3/8 in. hole. So I subtract 0.25 in. from the 1.58 in. hole depth and mark the rod 1.33 in. from the first mark.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05433.jpg

I cut the rod at this point and thread about 1 in. of it.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05434.jpg

I fit in a washer and insert the truss rod nut. It begins to snug up after about six turns. I think that will work.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05435.jpg

Man, but he wasted a lot of toothpicks, didn't he? :mrgreen:

So, thinking ahead to next year's challenge, just how many toothpicks can you buy with $211? :grin:

Jack, this has turned into a real piece of art. Or is it architecture?
You now have me wondering whether the "big ugly gouge" was an "unfortunate accident"? :wink:

Either way, it's stunning. A pleasure to watch you work on it.

Jack, I really like the work on that body. It looks very cool.

I ripped several strips from some 3/4 in. walnut then selected one that was a little oversize then sanded it until it would fit in the slot. I then rounded the end.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/NewAlbum2/DSC05436.jpg

I put it into the slot, marked it and cut it to length. I then laid it against the channel routing jig and traced the curve onto the walnut strip.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/NewAlbum2/DSC05438.jpg

I cut the curved line on the bandsaw.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/NewAlbum2/DSC05439.jpg

I placed the strip into the slot and pushed it forward toward the headstock. As you can see there is a gap. This is due to the fact that the end of the channel is not perpendicular to the back or the neck.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/NewAlbum2/DSC05440.jpg

The easiest solution for this is the taper the end of the walnut strip.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/NewAlbum2/DSC05443.jpg

After doing so, the strip fits snug against the end of the channel.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/NewAlbum2/DSC05444.jpg

This probably won't be helpful to many of you since I'm using the StewMac circular saw blade in a radial saw. Few people have radial saws these days and I don't think Sears or Dewalt makes them anymore. The StewMac website has instructions for using the blade along with the fret scale template in a table saw.

Here's what I'll be using. The circular saw blade. The fret scale template. A special fence for the radial saw and a strip of masonite with a centerline drawn on it.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05445.jpg

Here you can see the locating pin in the special fence.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05446a.jpg

The fret scale template is attached to the masonite strip with double sided tape then the neck is attached to the masonite aligning the centerlines of each.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05448.jpg

Here you see the pin indexed into the first nut notch in the template.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05450.jpg

I made a couple of shallow cuts for the nut. The cuts don't agree with my drawn nut lines but after looking at it for a while, I think my drawn lines aren't perpendicular to the centerline.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05451.jpg

Here the fret slots have all been cut. Once I started cutting them it probably only took a couple of minutes. Problem is I'm not sure they are deep enough. Once the fretboard is radiused the cut won't be as deep at the ends. Hmmmm.......... maybe a little calculation is in order.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05452.jpg

I made up this little sketch showing a 9.5 in. radius arc.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05454.jpg

It looks like the fretboard radius will shorten the depth of the cut by about 0.060 in. at the ends of the cut. So ............ the depth of the cut should be the depth of the fret tang plus 0.060 plus just a little extra for good measure.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05458.jpg

After cutting all the slots deeper (~0.150 in.), I remove the wood between the two nut cuts.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05460.jpg

They say that Art is something that has no functionality or purpose! But this is seriously fantastic. Great photos and updates,keep up the great work.

Thought I had some StewMac fret marker dots but couldn't find them. Rather than order more and wait, I grabbed some scrap pickguard material and a hole punch that looked to be about the right size and punched out a few.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05464.jpg

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05465.jpg

Now the find the correct drill size. I started with the 17/64 in. ....... looked right but the dot moved a little in the hole. Next size down in my set was the 1/4 in. ................ perfect.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05466.jpg

Fret marker locations are marked on the neck.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05468.jpg

........that's a very hairy thumb you've got there Jack.....:lol:

Yeah .............. I had the same thought myself when I first saw the picture. Turns out it's actually a shop brush lying on the router table.

I hope we get to hear this one

It will probably have a hollow sound......... :wink:

Great thread, i'm loving how it's coming along.

One question though: how do you go about cutting the nut slot out?



After cutting all the slots deeper (~0.150 in.), I remove the wood between the two nut cuts.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05460.jpg

Do you remove the wood using the circular saw?

Cheers,
Nick

In that picture see the strip of wood between my neck/template jig and the fence. That allowed me to slide the neck sideways without engaging the pin in the template notches while keeping the neck centerline parallel with the fence. I then just eyeballed it and made a couple of cuts between the original two nut cuts.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05469.jpg

The 12th fret holes are drilled slightly deeper.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05470.jpg

The fret markers are glued in with Weld-On #16 ........ same cement used for binding.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05472.jpg

I give each marker a little tap for good measure.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05474.jpg

I've kept the neck stuck to the fret slotting jig. This allows me to clamp the whole thing to the radial saw table for sanding the fretboard radius. I start with the StewMac 9.5 sanding block and 100 grit self adhesive paper from Grizzly.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05475.jpg

I continue with the 100 grit until the dirty wood stripe in the center disappears.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05476.jpg

I then switch to 320 grit for the final sanding.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05477.jpg

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05478.jpg

Disclaimer: When I say something.... always ask yourself ..... "What the hell does he know?"

I'm beginning to believe you know a lot more than you let on.... :cool:

And you definitely could be a Mac person.



Cab (aka "Dr. Macintosh")

I love the body! this build rocks, hard.

Instead of going through the tedious work of measuring to mark the side dot locations I grabbed a factory neck and lined up the fret slots on it and on mine.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05479.jpg

I then clamped the two necks together.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05480.jpg

I transferred the factory locations to my neck.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05481.jpg

I'll be using the plastic side dot rod from Warmoth. They say it's 2 mm. A 5/64 in. drill bit looks about right.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05482.jpg

I'll probably be making more necks in the future so I made this special fence for the drill press. It allows me to slide the neck from the 3rd fret marker location to the 21st fret marker location while keeping the top edge of the neck parallel with the drill press table.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05483.jpg

Drilling the marker holes.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05485.jpg

I dip the end of the rod into the Weld-On #16 push it into the hole and cut it off.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05486.jpg

The dots are then sanded flush.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05487.jpg

I wish i had those tools and your expertise - gorgeous job, meticulous.

Not there yet, but heading that way...give me ten (twenty) years..maybe.....

I wish i had those tools and your expertise - gorgeous job, meticulous.

I agree! But I have times I want to get there and times that I'm not prepared to do the investments necessary for it...

Before glueing in the skunk stripe, I removed the truss rod and measured the distance from the anchor to the end of the rod for future reference. Rather than write it down on a piece of paper that I will lose, I'll post it here...... 16 5/8 in.

Glueing the skunk stripe.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05488.jpg

The protruding walnut was planed close to the maple surface.........

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05489.jpg

....... then finished with the orbital sander.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05490.jpg
......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05491.jpg

Amazing work, really love watching yours builds...and learning as well.

I did the initial rough shaping with a spokeshave.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05492.jpg

A little time with the Rigid belt sander refined it more.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05493.jpg

The orbital sander removed irregularities made by the belt sander.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05494.jpg

Still a lot of shaping to do. It's still pretty chunky but it's beginning to look like a neck. The rest of the shaping can probably be done with the orbital sander and various grits of sandpaper.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05495.jpg

Nice Jack. I also use the RA for my fret slotting. If I get a chance, I will post it in my thread. I have a bit more robust jig for holding the neck for slotting. I can slot them in about 2 minutes maybe 3 including removing the neck and placing a new one in the jig. I still have not done a one piece neck...LOL. That's next.

You really are the craftsman my friend.

Joe

Thanks Joe and thanks to all others with kind words. Yeah, I need to come up with a better method of attaching the neck to the jig. Maybe pins in the jig that would go into holes in the heel and headstock.

This morning I came up with a great method of holding the neck during the profiling process. The heel is clamped into my parrot vise and a vertical support is placed under the headstock. This would have worked especially well when using the spokeshave.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05500.jpg

Here's another great tool for neck profiling. A concave scraper. I got this in a set of several shapes from Grizzly.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05497.jpg

It takes off just a little material at a time reducing the possibility of screwing up.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05496.jpg

This new holding method works really well with the orbital sander giving you great manoeuvrability.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05498.jpg

Jack,
Great to see a craftsman at work.....reminds of the man I apprenticed with to learn violin mandolin & guitar building. He had been working with wood his entire professional life, and one day made a careless mistake.......slicing the tip of his left bird finger off. I realized right then & there that I wasn't going to work at the trade until I was too old to play guitar. Please remind folks that want to imitate you, that safety with
modern machinery is paramount.....a person with no background should at least take a class at their local community college to learn the basics.....those fast moving machines are deadly, and can alter your career forever, even when you've worked around them your entire life!

I saw someone lose their thumb in a press, since then I always look at my fingers after using electric tools without even thinking about it.

Jack,
I'm trying to get my head around the sound this could create, would this allow it to sustain more?

Fantastic work!

.......would this allow it to sustain more?

Probably not ........... but you never know.

I always look at my fingers after using electric tools without even thinking about it.

I think it's a good idea before using tools to just take a minute to think ........ What am I about to do? What could go wrong? What am I doing to ensure that doesn't happen?

This is true of hand tools also. Years ago I was cutting some chain with a hacksaw. I had the chain locked in a vise. With the hacksaw in my right hand, I was resting my left hand on the other side of the vise. On a push stroke the blade jumped out of the cut, skipped across the top of the vise and into my left thumb. Now if I had stopped and answered the questions above that cut could have been prevented. I did learn a lesson though.

Jack,
The man I apprenticed with loved to say: "The first time you cut yourself with a pocket knife, should also be the last! You've received enough information to keep from ever doing it again......but oh no............"

Let me preface this by saying that when it comes to installing frets, I'm a complete novice. This is only the second neck I've fretted. The first was last night.

On this neck I made sure the fret slots were cut deep enough. However if you're not sure, this little gauge from StewMac is great for checking to make sure. It also works to clear the slots of sawdust and debris.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05523.jpg

I made a fret bender some time back but on this neck I'm using fretwire from Grizzly. It comes pre-bent. I lay the fretwire in the slot and cut it allowing some overhang on each end.'

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05525.jpg

When all the slots are filled, I hammer the ends down.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05526.jpg

This is the StewMac fret press caul with the 9.5 in. insert mounted in my drill press. I must say it works quite well. No problems with any of the frets.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05527.jpg

After all frets are pressed in I clip the ends with end nippers.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05529.jpg

Here I'm running a flat file along the side of the neck filing the fret ends flush with the wood.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05530.jpg

Once the fret ends are flush with the wood, I bevel the fret ends with this homemade fret beveling file. It's a piece of a file mounted into a block of wood. The slot in the wood is cut at a 35 degree angle just like those from StewMac. A couple of drywall screws squeeze the file and hold it secure.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05531.jpg

For a novice, it doesn't look that bad.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05532.jpg

Awesome thread JW - a step-by-step how-to (how to do it the way a master does it).

How did you clean up the truss rod between this pic:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05428.jpg
and this one?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05429.jpg

If you're talking about the scars in the side of the truss rod near the anchor, those were caused by clamping the rod too tightly in the jaws of my vice. I did use a file to smooth them out some. However in the second picture you're looking at the top of the truss rod. No marks on the top of it.

Novice?
You're having a laugh :lol::lol::lol:

I'd have thought professional would be more fitting :wink:

Let me preface this by saying that when it comes to installing frets, I'm a complete novice. .............

Well Jack, you don't spend much time in novice mode. It looks like you start in expert mode on most anything you begin. Nice work. I can't wait to see it finished.

Here are a couple grinding mods I did to my fret cutter that may help. The first one flattens the front of a diagonal cutter for a closer edge cut.
http://terrydownsmusic.com/Archive/fretting_tools/fret_nippers_end_ground.jpg

The other narrows the edges of the cutter on one side so it can be used to cut off the frets that are close to each other.

http://terrydownsmusic.com/Archive/fretting_tools/fret_nippers_narrowed.jpg

If you're talking about the scars in the side of the truss rod near the anchor, those were caused by clamping the rod too tightly in the jaws of my vice. I did use a file to smooth them out some. However in the second picture you're looking at the top of the truss rod. No marks on the top of it.
In the first pic both the rod and the anchor look almost black. In the second they are brassy and shiny. What happened in between?

The side of the anchor is black. In the second picture you're looking at the cut end of the anchor after it had been filed while spinning in the drill press as shown earlier. Nothing was done to change the color of the truss rod. Any difference in the looks of the rod are due to lighting. Before I installed the truss rod permanently I polished the top of the anchor on the buffing wheel. Now it's so shiny I can see my face in it .............. not a pretty sight.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05536.jpg

Thanks for the tips Terry. I thought my cutters cut pretty close but I just looked at them and they could definitely use the first mod. I had a little trouble cutting the higher frets so I'll definitely be doing your second mod.

Let me preface this by saying that when it comes to installing frets, I'm a complete novice. This is only the second neck I've fretted. The first was last night.
Great looking guitar. None of your build/lesson threads would ever make me think it was only the second time you had done any of this stuff. Any guesses on the final weight of this one?

Great shot, Tele neck pocket/locket pictures for your builds. :mrgreen:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05536.jpg

I'm really liking this one Jack!

Anyone who has viewed this thread in the last few days probably noticed the lack of pictures. Before this post, this thread had around 160 pictures. Combine those with the thousands of other pictures I've posted over the years, some of which have been viewed in these forums during the past month, and I've run out of bandwidth in my Photobucket free account. The Photobucket bandwidth counter should reset next Friday so the pictures should reappear then. I'm using another account to post the following.

I've never made a nut before. Guess it's a good time to start. I start with a bone nut blank from StewMac. I use the sand and try method until I get it to fit snugly into the nut slot.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05538.jpg

Here I'm using to half pencil method of marking the fret height on the nut blank.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05540.jpg

With files I give the blank a curved top stopping before the line.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05541.jpg
......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05542.jpg

For a nut vise I'm using this little clamp on Bessey vise I picked up at a yard sale. I've cut away the corners so I have better access to the nut blank. It works great.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05543.jpg

I put the blank into the nut slot and marked the width. I then sawed off the excess sawing outside the line.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05544.jpg

I then sand the nut ends to match the fingerboard width.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05546.jpg

After checking some of my Fender guitars, I use a nut file to mark the outside string location. I chose 1/8 in. from the edge.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05547.jpg

I've marked them with pencil for better visability.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05549.jpg

Here I'm using the StewMac nut slot locater to mark the locations of the other four strings.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05550.jpg

I then use the nut file to make permanent marks. That's all for now. I'll do the final nut slotting and shaping when I've got strings on it.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05551.jpg

Lookin' good! My subconcious always count to six when I see the stewmac nut ruler:mrgreen: I have the feeling I'm not the only one....

Yeah ........... it's good to count. Don't want to make a Telecaster banjo.

Lets see, for six strings you need five spaces, or was that seven spaces? Or maybe four....???? I think my head hurts! :shock:

Jack. I'd say that this thread has answered more questions for me than any book. I'm really looking forward to building my first Tele and this thread is helping a lot.

Also, we have a lot of the same tools in our shop. I too have a drill press table extension. Although my favorite specialty tool is my Perfomax 16/32 belt sander. I sand one side of a plank 16" wide in a single pass and do it with 1/32th inch accuracy.

The part I'm really looking forward to is the finishing process (My least favorite part of woodworking) I've always wondered how to finish a Maple neck without having the finish pool against the frets. I assumed that the neck was slotted, then finished, then the fret slots cleaned up and THEN fretted. But then you have the problem of filing the fret ends on a finished neck. So I look forward to seeing how you finish yours.

Thanks Greg. In finishing this one, I'm trying something a little different and unconventional. A few months ago, I refinished the stock on a Marlin lever action 22 rifle. I was really impressed at how smooth and how great it felt. I decided to start on the neck. I begin by staining the neck with ColorTone liquid stain mixed with alcohol ............ ~ 3/4 teaspoon to 4 oz. alcohol. I apply the stain with a rag going over any uneven looking areas until it looks pretty even.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05552.jpg

The color was pretty intense. The following tones it down a bit. I'm using Watco oil finish and using an application technique that used to be on the cans several years ago. After applying a liberal amount with a paper towel, I rub it in with 600 wet or dry sandpaper.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05555.jpg

I then dry it with a paper towel and let it sit a few hours before repeating the Watco treatment. It feels increadibly smooth and has a soft satin appearance.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05557.jpg

One thing I didn't forsee is that areas where endgrain is showing turned out darker. However this does give it sort of an 'antique" look. Hmmm......... maybe that's the way I planned it...........Yeah ......... that's the ticket.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05566.jpg

That's a good looking neck you've built, Jack. Very nice.

I've never used Watco. I should give it a try. I usually make my own shellac by mixing a 2 pound cut of shellac and alcohol in an empty spaghetti sauce jar and letting it dissolved for about a week. I've used is as a standard french polish and as a brush on finish.

The Watco looks really good on that neck. And I like the idea of a satin finish on a neck rather than the glossy nitro finish.

Now I'm really interested in seeing how you're going to do the fretboard.

The fretboard was finished at the same time and in the same way as the rest of the neck.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05568.jpg

I have used that Watco golden oak on ash and maple myself. I love the jump start on the patina which is on the money IMO. ;)

Great job on that neck. The body, in that most recently posted shot, reminds me of Honeycomb cereal. Love it (the guitar, not the cereal).

Great job on that neck. The body, in that most recently posted shot, reminds me of Honeycomb cereal. Love it (the guitar, not the cereal).

Or monster munch :lol:

Neck looks great Jack, lovely colour to it

I love the jump start on the patina .....
Hey Robert, I like that description. The uneven coloring does seem to appear as patina.

That's nice. And your method eliminates the finish pooling up along the frets.

Very nice indeed.

Very nice work Jack!!! Gorgeous neck! Can't wait to see the rest done!!! :grin:

Since your Photobucket account reset, I've gone back to see all of the photos I missed. Nice work. It brings to mind the Schecter Genesis that Joe Perry used in Run-DMC's "Walk This Way" video.

Hey Robert, I like that description. The uneven coloring does seem to appear as patina.

When I did this Ash topped Tele [my first DIY in 2002-3] the Ash was so damn white. I got the golden oak to amber it up and was quite pleased with the results. I would up using the entire can on the next few projects on both bodies and necks. The walnut Watco can I did no use much of and tossed it a one point due to age and a leaky cap that let it dry out.
Is there a even shelf life on that stuff ??


Hurry up patina.... ;)


What color will the skeletor body be Jack ?

The body will hopefully be the same color as the neck. I wasn't looking forward to this stain job but after much handsanding trying to get all the interior surfaces smooth, I finally got after it. Not much to describe here. I basicly just rubbing the alcohol stain into all areas trying to keep the color tone fairly consistant.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05572.jpg
......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05573.jpg
......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05574.jpg

A small dowel helps to get into small areas.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05575.jpg

If the stain is too dark in an area you can add more stain to your rag and blend the areas together.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05576.jpg

It's still wet in the following two pictures. I'll let it dry and decide if more stain is needed anywhere.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05579-1.jpg
......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05580.jpg

Didn't realize my glove split until I took went to take it off.

......http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05581.jpg

Can we see? Pretty please? :grin:

Hey Nick ............ I clicked the wrong button and posted before I had added the pictures. Had to edit the post. Should be eight pictures now.

Hope your figure cleans up.

I bet there is a Confucius joke there... :mrgreen:



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/210%20Challenge/DSC05581.jpg

Jack, i think you need to polish the trigger on that Glock don't blame it on a split glove!

I think i've said it before and it still holds....Amazing work!

Looks great, Jack.

How many scrollsaw blades have you gone through?

Actually not that many. I used one blade on this body. I use a 7 TPI blade and take my time not forcing the wood into the blade.

I've not had time to keep up with everyone else's threads. It was a great relief to see your using Danish oil on your neck, I wasn't sure if that would work or not. I've never used the stuff before.

Amazing build. I really like the skeletal thing, it's just cool!

Truly inspiring build Jack,thank you for all the pictures and text as it really helps some of us others to learn from the masters.

This is looking better by the minute Jack!



________________
And I'm a Mac... :mrgreen:

http://www.apple.com/getamac/ads/

WOW! Is all I can say, you are a true crasftsman Jack and thank you so much for sharing these build pictures, as someone who aspires to build a tele from scratch one day you've given me so much inspiration!!

That finish looks great on the neck. Can't wait to see it all put together.

Thanks fo the comments. Here's a prelimenary picture after some Watco treatment. More Watco treaments to come. The Watco really darkened up the areas where end grain is showing. This isn't exactly what I had in mind at the beginning but I'm beginning to like it. It has the look of an old antique.


......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05585.jpg

That is dead sexy Jack!

That is just to cool for school

Gorgeous, just gorgeous! I love oil finishes! :grin:

Hope your figure cleans up.
I meant "finger."

That oil/stain combo looks fantastic. Is that Danish Oil similar to Birchwood-Casey's Tru-Oil?

Not at all Tru-Oil.

hadn't seen this thread yet (there's so many ...): Fantastic quality!! and verrry good pictures, almost like an instruction guide, many will be thankful

looking forward to final result

keep going!

I meant "finger."

That oil/stain combo looks fantastic. Is that Danish Oil similar to Birchwood-Casey's Tru-Oil?


Quoting yourself, I have often wondered when I would start doing that... :wink:


:mrgreen:

I chuck a piece of 1/2 in. dowel into the drill press and use the drill press to press in the ferrules.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05590.jpg

I lay all the tuners in position and press a straight edge against the bottom edge of the tuners and clamp it in place. I then mark all the screw hole locations with a sharp pencil.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05591.jpg

I use an awl to mark the center of the pencil marks.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05592.jpg

The threaded portion of the screws is a little less than 3/8 in. long. I use a 5/64 in. bit and set the drill press stop for 3/8 in.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05593.jpg

I wax the screw threads for good measure then install all tuners and screws but stop before the screws are tight. I clamp the straight edge against the tuners' edges once again and snug the screws up tight.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05597.jpg

Final result.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05598.jpg

Since this guitar will not have a pickguard, I've decided to add another feature ....... a recessed control plate. I'll be using a control plate I got from reliablefender on eBay. It is supposedly a Fender plate. Not all control plates are exactly the same dimensions so the template I make here may not work for other control plates in the future. I start by tracing the control plate onto 1/4 in. MDF. I rough cut inside the line then use the spindle sander to get closer to the line.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05601.jpg

I do the final sanding by hand using the 'sand and try' method and various files, sanding blocks and the drum from the spindle sander.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05603.jpg

It fits.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05604.jpg

I tape the 1/4 in. template to some rough cut 3/4 in. MDF and rout the 3/4 in. MDF to make a working template.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05605.jpg

I want the control plate to be parallel with the bridge so this is a good time to mount the bridge. I use some 1/8 in. dowel in the string through holes and mark the mounting holes. I went ahead and checked the neck alignment while I was at it......... hence the string.

http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05607.jpg

This picture doesn't show what I had hoped. I mounted a couple of pots in the control plate. I cut a small piece of 1/4 in. masonite to serve as a spacer between the bridge and control plate. I positioned the control plate and pressed it against the spacer then traced around the control plate.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05608.jpg

Here's the working template positioned with respect to the traced outline above and held in place with clamps.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05612.jpg

After routing, I ease that sharp edge with sandpaper on a fingertip.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05609.jpg

A little touch-up with stain on a Q-tip.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05610.jpg

Here's the result.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05613.jpg

Recessing the control plate is a nice touch.

Very nice, Jack!

That thing is crazy cool!

Here's the StewMac jack clip installation tool with a clip bent and ready to install.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05615.jpg
......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05616.jpg

Installing the clip. Tightening the bolt straightens the clip inside the hole driving the four corners into the wood.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05618.jpg
......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05619.jpg

Marking the screw hole locations for the body mounted neck pickup with a sharp pointy tool.

http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05620.jpg

Since I've recessed the control plate, might as well recess the neck plate. I start by drilling the neck mounting holes in the body. I'm using a template I made that fits snugly in the neck pocket.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05625.jpg

The template for the neck plate is much easier to make than that for the control plate. I take four small pieces of masonite and tape them snugly around the neck plate on a piece of 3/4 in. MDF. I remove the plate, rough cut inside the masonite then rout out the rest using the masonite as a template. The corners of this StewMac plate have 1/4 in. radii so the 1/2 in. dia router bit makes a perfect corner.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05621.jpg

Here I've laid the plate with screws in position and traced around the plate.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05626.jpg

The template is aligned with the traced outline and clamped in place.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05627.jpg

Routing complete.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05628.jpg

After easing the sharp edge with sandpaper, applying a little stain and adding a slight countersink to the holes.........

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05630.jpg

Here's a test fit.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05633.jpg

That recessed neck plate is a very nice touch

Thanks Leigh.

Here I'm using the Steve Dikkers method of creating a metalic looking decal. First, I print out a sheet of logos on laser decal paper. This font is "Brush Stroke Hollow" Bold printed from Microsoft Works.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05623.jpg

Laser printers require a special decal paper so don't try inkjet decal paper in a laser printer. One nice thing about using a laser printer, is you don't have to coat the decal before you put it in water. Since you don't coat it you don't have the build-up of lacquer or clear acrylic or whatever you use. The decal remains very thin.

The decal is applied to the headstock.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05624.jpg

I fill in the inside of the letters with a silver Sharpie trying not to go outside the lines.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05634.jpg
......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05635.jpg

I then apply another decal over the first carefully aligning it with the first. Doesn't look too bad with the naked eye. I may remove the tuners and spray lacquer over the face of the headstock.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05636.jpg
......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05637.jpg

With the decal on the surface, it looks like this if you're not looking at it straight-on.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05641.jpg

So, I remove the tuners and tap out the ferrules.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05639.jpg

I tap them into what was my original control plate template. I had made it from 1/2 in. MDF but that didn't allow a shallow enough rout for the plate.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05640.jpg

A little masking and I squirt some Deft Satin Clear on the face of the headstock.

.....http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05647.jpg

Problem solved. The decal film no longer shows and the lacquer has added some protection to the decal. The satin lacquer doesn't look too different from the oil finish ........ and no wet sanding and polishing required.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05648.jpg

This is the brad point bit I used to drill the neck mounting holes in the body. Nice sharp point on the centerline of the bit.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05649.jpg

I put the body and neck together and drop the bit down through each hole and give it a medium whack to mark the hole locations in the neck.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05651.jpg

I put the neck plate in place and insert one screw. The screw extends into the pocket just over 1/2 in.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05653.jpg

I set the drill press stop for 1/2 in and drill the four holes in the neck.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05654.jpg

I wax the screw threads with a candle and drive them in by hand with a small stubby screwdriver so I can feel if there's a problem. No problem.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05655.jpg

That colour is fantastic - made even better by the matching neck and body. Your coolest build IMO.

What's it weigh, Jack?

Thanks Nick.

In its present state ............ body, neck, tuners, neck plate, string ferrules and strap pins ......... it weighs 4 lbs. 14.4 oz.

You put the neck on, and no full mock up shot??? Come on, I really want to see what this looks like all put together! Its going to be great.

A true work of art

VERY cool design and great workmanship! I believe this skeletal bodied Tele could be a good selling guitar were it offered commercially.

I was putting some of the remaining hardware on the guitar this morning. I installed the jack and noticed what you see in the picture below. All wiring is hidden except for the jack wires. The visible wires and the jack don't make for a finished look. In hindsight, I would have made the body with solid wood in the jack hole area. Too late for that on this one.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05665.jpg

I spent a few hours trying to come up with an idea for covering the jack and wires. I went around the house looking for some sort of metal tubing that would work. The outside diameter of 3/4 in. electrical conduit is greater than 7/8 in. I had some aluminum tubing from an old folding cot but it was larger than the conduit. Copper pipe in the 3/4 in. seemed about right but was the wrong color. I thought about covering it with aluminum tape. The idea was to slip this cover in from the control cavity and glue it in place. I found that even the 3/4 in. copper tubing was difficult to slip through the inner hole. I was trying to do this without removing the previously installed jack clip. I finally decided the clip had to come out. Luckily the StewMac jack clip tool also works to remove the clip. You reverse a couple of the parts and this is what you get.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05669.jpg

With this clip removed, I have better acces to the inner hole. Here is a home-made sanding drum I used earlier to remove router burn marks from the inside cavities of the body. Here I've attached a 1 in. wide strip of 100 grit sandpaper.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05671.jpg

This allows me to make the inner hole larger without affecting the outer hole.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05666.jpg

I decided to go ahead and make the inner hole large enough for the 3/4 in. electrical conduit. Below I'm polishing the end of the conduit with a buffing wheel. I stopped the wheel to take the picture for safety.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05664.jpg

I cut off about an inch of the conduit and slipped it in place to see how it would look. Before final installation, I'll coat it with lacquer to hopefully prevent rusting. I'll also line the inside with electrical tape.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05668.jpg

Great looking guitar jack, Jack. Gonna be awesome. Plexi-topped?

No covers on this one. Still need a name for it ............. Guess it's a Telecaster Semi-Air Guitar. In the past my best playing has always been on an air guitar.

Just went for my mail and found these. I think I ordered them from Guitar Parts Resource on Friday. That's fast shipping. Think I now have all I need to finish.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05672.jpg

How about Lattice-caster?

Spidey-Caster? Spidercaster? Webcaster? :grin:

Nice save there!

Quote from Christopher Alexander:

"The difference between the novice and the master is simply that the novice has not learnt, yet, how to do things in such a way that he can afford to make small mistakes. The master knows that the sequence of his actions will always allow him to cover his mistakes a little further down the line. It is this simple but essential knowledge which gives the work of a master carpenter its wonderful, smooth, relaxed, and almost unconcerned simplicity."

Semi-Air guitar is classic! Great thinking!

I'd agree on the Spidercaster. It does have something Spiderman-ish to it, in a very good way.

A++.
Excellent work Jack. Especially on the headstock. I used exactly the same idea, but apparently you use better materials then I did because the top decal folded and dissolved.

Very nice work Jack. The recessed plates look fantastic. It's hard to get the fit just right, but you've done a great job with it. You have more patience than I do. :wink:

Nice grounding tube there over the jacks connections. ;)

To start, I wire all the components on the control plate and wire the jack.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05673.jpg
......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05675.jpg

Some people have problems soldering the ground wires to the back of the volume pot. This is how I do it. First of all I twist all the ground wires together and apply solder. (Bad photo ........ hard to focus).

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05678.jpg

I lay the soldering iron on the back of the pot and apply the solder to the back of the pot not touching the iron. When a puddle forms, I remove the iron.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05676.jpg

With the iron in one hand and the ground wires held in some pliers I re-heat the back of the pot until the solder puddle melts. I immediately stick the wires in the puddle and withdraw the iron. I hold the wires steady in the puddle until the solder solidifies.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05682.jpg

Never made a nut before this one. I roughed out the nut earlier in this thread. In finishing it, I'm going to be trying a technique described in the book Guitar Player Repair Guide by Dan Erlewine.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05683.jpg

I first measure the height of the first two frets using a straight edge and a feeler gauge. I measure 0.040 in.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05687.jpg

The book says to add 0.005 to 0.010 in. the the fret height. I decide on 0.008 in.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05688.jpg

The idea is to hold the feeler gauge against the nut and file the slots until you contact the feeler guage.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05689.jpg

Final shaping of the nut.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05690.jpg

I wet sand the nut using sandpapers from 600 to 2000 then polish it with polishing compound.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05691.jpg

After adding the strings, I mark the location of the string tree........

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05694.jpg

.....and predrill with a bit in a drafting pencil.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05696.jpg

Looks like it's complete except for some final tweaking. Hopefully I can get some decent pictures.

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05697.jpg

Final weight: 6 lbs. 0.1 oz. Maybe I can saw off one of the spokes to get it under 6 lbs ......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/Animations/Wink.gif

......http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/DSC05698.jpg

That is an amazing version of a Tele. It is a guitar I'd want to buy if I saw it in a store. Thanks for the tutorial.

Post deleted after reading Rule #7.

7. Your final build post will include complete photos of the finished guitar and an itemized parts list and cost list. All parts are to be listed and priced fairly -- including all screws and hardware. Should you go over your entry will be disqualified.

Full on shots, front and rear ?


Don't make us beg.. ;)

I sent a pic of the body to a buddy who loves teles, two seconds later he replied "where can I buy one?!?!?" Awesome guitar!

I should have pictures tomorrow.

I've tried to document all the steps involved in the construction of this guitar in hopes that they may be useful to others. You'll find around 275 construction photos. Although the guitar is a bit unique, all the basic steps in building a Telecaster style guitar are there. These steps are not the only way of getting the job done but they do work.

Fretting a neck and making a nut were a couple of steps I had not done before this contest. The contest gave me the kick in the pants I needed to overcome these two roadblocks. I've learned things from this build and hopefully others who have followed it have learned a thing or two.

Cost breakdown
Body Wood:....... .$17.96 (Local Supplier)
Neck Wood:.........$4.33 (Local Supplier)
Fret Marker ........zero (Scrap Pickguard Material)
Side Marker........$0.50 (Estimated)
Bridge:...............$11.50 (eBay)
Tuners:..............$18.00 (eBay)
Neck Pickup:.......$10.78 (eBay)
Bridge Pickup:......$4.59 (eBay)
Jack Cup:............$5.80 (StewMac)
Jack:....................$3.16 (Stew Mac)
Neck Plate:..........$7.25 (StewMac)
Control Plate:..... .$3.80 (eBay)
String Ferrules:....$5.17 (StewMac)
Knobs:................$3.25 (Grizzly)
Strap Buttons:.....$2.99 (StewMac)
String Tree:.........$2.00 (StewMac)
Pots:..................$9.38 (Guitar Parts Resource)
Switch................$6.99 (Guitar Parts Resource)
Capacitor:............$0.69 (Guitar Parts Resource)
Nut Blank:............$2.80 (StewMac)
Fret Wire:............$3.00 (Grizzly)
Switch Tip:..........$1.59 (StewMac)
3/16 in. Rod:........$2.00 (Local hardware store)
Truss Rod Nut ....$2.54 (StewMac)
Amber Stain.........$2.18 (StewMac)
Watco:...............$3.00 (Estimated)
Total...............$135.31

Now a little tour of the guitar

http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/a.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/b.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/d.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/e.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/f.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/f1.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/g.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/h.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/i.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/j.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/k.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/k1.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/l.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/l1-1.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/m.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/m1.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/n.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/o.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/p.jpg
http://i847.photobucket.com/albums/ab34/Jack393/210%20Challenge%20B/Completed%20Photos/p1.jpg

Great pocs! Amazing guitar!

[EDIT:] I mean PICS! :mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:

That is an amazing guitar. Wish I had your skills Jack.

Any chance of sound clips?

Wow. What a beautiful instrument and has a lot of great little details. I like the steel pipe covering the jack and wires! Very creative.

Beautiful work Jack. Lovely guitar.

Excellent! And super photography skills.

Reminds me of gibson holy series but this looks way cooler.

The guitar is incredible! On behalf of all of us who are just getting started building our own guitars, thank you for taking the extra time to photograph and document each and every step in detail. It is a virtual tutorial for those of us who are beginners and I’m sure will be referenced many times. Thanks again.

The guitar is incredible! On behalf of all of us who are just getting started building our own guitars, thank you for taking the extra time to photograph and document each and every step in detail. It is a virtual tutorial for those of us who are beginners and I’m sure will be referenced many times. Thanks again.

I second that! I'll certainly be using your method of recessing things when I fix the damage to my entry!

Jim

WOW.

Jack, your work and dedication is inspiring for all of us, I hope I can some day get to build a guitar half as good as this one. God Bless you sir!

P.S. waiting on the sound clips or Youtube links!

Love Love Love it!! It gives me GAS

wow that is so nice! great pics and documentation. congrats.

Nice, Very nice.