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Lostheart November 12th, 2009, 12:10 PM I don't know about you, but drilling for those stepped string-through ferrules has always caused me major headache. I managed to get it right thanks to drill guides but it always required lots of measuring and tinkering. Needless to say it was my least favorite part when it came to building a Tele body.
The incredibly talented and handsome Gil Yarron once suggested modifying a stepped drill bit which can be purchased for very little money on the 'Bay and after a bit of grinding I gave my new tool a test run...
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y58/Lostheart/th_IMG_8809.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y58/Lostheart/?action=view¤t=IMG_8809.jpg)
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y58/Lostheart/th_IMG_8811.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y58/Lostheart/?action=view¤t=IMG_8811.jpg)
I started with a regular 5/16'' forstner bit and drilled all 6 holes for the string-through ferrules and then I just plunged the stepped drill bit in and drilled the 3/8'' rim.
Every test drilling came out perfect and IMHO this new "toy" makes this part of the Tele-building process so much easier and allows you to use those original Fender Vintage ferrules...
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y58/Lostheart/th_IMG_8812.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y58/Lostheart/?action=view¤t=IMG_8812.jpg)
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y58/Lostheart/th_IMG_8815.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y58/Lostheart/?action=view¤t=IMG_8815.jpg)
A big thank you to Gil Yarron for sharing this idea with the rest of us! You're DA MAN!
Cheers,
Sascha
Marc Rutters November 12th, 2009, 12:25 PM Nice pictures with description Sascha! No doubt that one's a must. Gotta make me one of those Yaron Tele Ferrule Step Drills.
mcgeorgerl November 12th, 2009, 12:58 PM I used a 3/8" router bit to do the counterbores which worked fine but I think I'll try this method next time.
I have a general question for the group though......
When using a 3/8" cutter, the ferrules seam to fit fine in bare wood. I'm concerned that many layers of sealer, color, clear coats will fill in the counterbores both in depth and diameter. I recall a thread where somebody tried the soldering iron trick to melt the bushing in through the finish only to have the finish wrinkle.
I'm wondering if maybe a 10mm diameter might be a "safer" size. Any thoughts??
boris bubbanov November 12th, 2009, 01:02 PM What is wrong with me? Duh!
I have 3 stepped bits, including one just like that.
Thanks for the tip!
Lostheart November 12th, 2009, 01:16 PM I used a 3/8" router bit to do the counterbores which worked fine but I think I'll try this method next time.
I have a general question for the group though......
When using a 3/8" cutter, the ferrules seam to fit fine in bare wood. I'm concerned that many layers of sealer, color, clear coats will fill in the counterbores both in depth and diameter. I recall a thread where somebody tried the soldering iron trick to melt the bushing in through the finish only to have the finish wrinkle.
I'm wondering if maybe a 10mm diameter might be a "safer" size. Any thoughts??
I've never had problems with the lacquer wrinkling/bubbling when using a soldering iron to push the ferrules in. On the other hand I go slow and have a low-wattage soldering iron for this task...
As for the finish buildup inside the ferrule holes...when I spray sanding sealer I basically "clean" the ferrule holes after I'm done with the sealer. I just take 3/8'' and 5/16'' drill bits, plunge them in and twist them around with my fingers.
The sanding sealer comes out and the lacquer buildup in those holes from the following nitro lacquer coats is IMHO minimal and you shouldn't have any problems with ferrules not fitting...
Nice pictures with description Sascha! No doubt that one's a must. Gotta make me one of those Yaron Tele Ferrule Step Drills.
Yeah, I bet Stew Mac will offer something like that sometime down the line...and they'll charge us 90 bucks for it!!!
;-)
Been busy the last couple of days but I'll drop ya an E-Mail about those plates and knobs tomorrow!
What is wrong with me? Duh!
I have 3 stepped bits, including one just like that.
Thanks for the tip!
No problem...I'm just bumping something that Gil mentioned in a build thread but since there is always pictures and info galore something like this can easily be overlooked by the majority....
gsoutherland November 12th, 2009, 08:55 PM I've not used one of those bits, but I've seen them. What grinding is necessary? Is it that the end is tapered and it needs to be ground flat? Could you expand on the actual modification of the bit, or link to the thread you mentioned? Thanks.
Lostheart November 13th, 2009, 03:00 AM I've not used one of those bits, but I've seen them. What grinding is necessary? Is it that the end is tapered and it needs to be ground flat? Could you expand on the actual modification of the bit, or link to the thread you mentioned? Thanks.
Gil just mentioned this on the side and FAIK he's not using it himself but had a drill bit specially made for this task.
This solution is much cheaper, though!
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/91600-91699/91616.gif
You basically need to take off the two top steps on the bit on the right (3/16'' and 1/4'') to get to the 5/16'' and 3/8'' step that is required for original vintage ferrules. Since I do not work with metal my equipment is limited, only having an Angle Grinder at hand. But it worked fine. Took a while since those step drill bits are frikkin' hard but slowly I got to the right depth.
If I can do it everybody can do it...
olaftheholy November 18th, 2009, 03:03 AM I've been busy using my own, nothing filed on that bit and works a treat.
it's a 4/6/8/10/12 etc...stepped bit
Actually there is a scribed line halfway down the 10 part of the bit.
After drilling 6mm thru holes i let the bit sink in from the back in each hole till it reaches the scribed line on the 10mm part.
Now i can drop in those pesky ferrules and have em flush.
Looks the part, no hassle filing down a stupid bit...
preeb November 18th, 2009, 07:05 AM Hey Sascha, glad it helped but why not leave the 1/8" lead like I originally posted?
http://i519.photobucket.com/albums/u353/teonigil/Step-Drill-Bits2.gif
It takes only one step... no need for the 5/16" first drill... you do both at once.
see here:
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/145299-1956-telecaster-build-3.html#post1655670
olaftheholy November 18th, 2009, 07:23 AM It might be the fever i have from h1n1 disease...
but the bit reminds me of christmas..
Frohe weinachten bit :mrgreen:
another couple of weeks for those teles to appear under the trees on christmas morning...
preeb November 18th, 2009, 09:14 AM How's your health Olaf?
h5n1 is no joke...
Keep on posting... (make sure you have someone healthy reviewing it before you post) so at least we know you're still alive (-;
Take care!
Guitartom_ca November 18th, 2009, 09:41 AM Great idea. I will put it on the top on my "next tool" list.
Tango February 9th, 2010, 06:54 PM Resurrecting an old thread :lol:.
For any Canadian members who wish to modify a drill bit along the lines suggested by Gil Yarron: A set of 3 bits which appear to be the same as the bits show by Lostheart in post #7 are currently being advertised by Princess Auto at CDN$10.00 for the set.
Thanks for the idea Gil and thanks to Lostheart for bringing it to my attention.
Canadianbreed July 17th, 2011, 10:15 AM I saw this idea from Gil quite awhile back.
I never did this but am looking into a single bit source instead of the whole set.
Here is one on Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180675402214&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campid=5335828755&toolid=10001&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.ca%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll %3FViewItem%26item%3D180675402214%26fromMakeTrack% 3Dtrue%26ssPageName%3DVIP%3Awatchlink%3Atop%3Aen)
Oh, BTW, what ferulle supplier are you guys using?
Thanks Gil
Bill
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