Some basic epoxy pointers please

Hi there,
I'm wanting to fill an old nail hole in my latest project body, and I'm told the epoxy is probably the best way to do it. I've not used the stuff before, and if anybody can let me know if I've got the right idea I'd be mighty grateful.

At the moment, the epoxy I'm looking at comes in a little 'double syringe' that squirts out an equal amount of resin and hardener. So I plan to just squirt it out into a container, mix it and transfer it into the hole with another syringe.

Are there any problems with that method? Can I fill the hole (it's an inch or so deep) in one go or do I need to do a bit and let it dry, as if I was building up wood filler?


Thanks,

Mr. B

I have used the stuff professionally (not guitars).

In a word: Milliput.

Best results epoxy cement from slow-setting type. You may be better off with an epoxy putty i.e. 'Milliput' terracotta = brown or standard=grey (also black and white), intended as a filler for all in one go, rather than the epoxy cement intended for bonding which would be best done in layers. If you need strength then Araldite slow-set. I've used Milliput successfully on guitars. With Milliput you can shape it into a little rod and stuff it down the hole, plus you can smooth off the excess with a wet thumb as it sets. Takes paint nicely too.

Those double-syringes work ok the first time but next time it came out up the plungers and all over me hand, yuk!

General tips for epoxy resin.

1) mix the stuff for twice as long as it says, and then do it again. Try to warm before mixing.

2) if possible, warm the job to <50°C, warm the mix a little (e.g. on a radiator). This lets the bubbles out and the mix to flow, also sticks better. If using Milliput, try smearing surface to be filled with a little Araldite twin pack to aid adhesion and filling whilst it's still wet.

3) If you can keep this <50°C temperature it will cure in 30min to 2 hours (even quick-set takes 24h before fully cured). Milliput is fast-setting but still likes to be warm.

4) Keep your epoxy packs in the fridge.

5) wash your hands!

You should consider Quickwood epoxy. I've heard they have it at Lowe's and Home Depot, but I've never looked for it there. I get it at Woodcraft. Here's a link to what I've used:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2005782/2005782.aspx

You just cut off a little piece and knead it with your fingers. You can roll it into a little cylinder and cram it inside the hole. Use a nail or something to smash it in there. It dries in an hour or two, and sands really easily. I really like the fact that you can handle it with your hands.

In a word: Milliput.

Best results epoxy cement from slow-setting type. You may be better off with an epoxy putty i.e. 'Milliput' terracotta = brown or standard=grey (also black and white), intended as a filler for all in one go, rather than the epoxy cement intended for bonding which would be best done in layers. If you need strength then Araldite slow-set. I've used Milliput successfully on guitars. With Milliput you can shape it into a little rod and stuff it down the hole, plus you can smooth off the excess with a wet thumb as it sets. Takes paint nicely too.



Oh, he beat me to it. It sounds like the same stuff, different name. Plus, I just realized you're in Europe. You probably don't have the same stores.

Squirt it out evenly on something that you can toss out later. Take a stirring stick or something similar and just mix the equal parts until the color is consistant throughout. Then apply it. Wear gloves and safety glasses if you have them ( cheap insurance). If it is 5 minute epoxy, work fast. Fill it slightly above the hole. Maybe poke a toothpick in there to make sure there isn't an air bubble. This isn't a tough repair. :-). Depending on temp, mix quality, and type it may take a few minutes or longer to start to set up. It is a chemical reaction. You could always fill the hole is some with toothpicks or skinny dowels and use less glue.

That double syringe epoxy is more of a glue than a resin and won't harden rock hard. It'll work, but I'd also use an epoxy putty instead.

Here we have a polyester resin product called Minwax High Performance Wood Filler. It's basically the same as Bondo autobody filler. It is a doughy putty where you mix in a pea sized bit of white hardener into a golfball sized dollop of the grey goo (those being the scientific words) and then smear it into place. It will shrink a little when it hardens, like any putty, but not much. Technically it's polyester filler and not epoxy, but the difference should not matter much except that epoxy fillers would be much harder to sand out later.

There's also epoxy putty from the hardware store, sold for lots of household repairs including leaky pipes. Knead it in your hand until it gets warm then stuff it in the hole.

I have found the syringe type epoxies are too soft and they dry with bubbles in them if you have a thick area of it. they also don't harden enough to sand out.

Geez guys he's filling a nail hole, not building a canoe...LOL

That double syringe epoxy is more of a glue than a resin and won't harden rock hard. It'll work, but I'd also use an epoxy putty instead.

You have one to recommend for us Aussies Nick?

Selleys kneadit.

He wants to fill the hole so it is stil clear and visable
You can pour laquer or varnish in there in small amounts and allow it to dry
or the Epoxy which will be a slight yellowish tint because of the hardner
it will dry rock hard after a day I use it alot and can drill and tap it after it dries

Chemically speaking epoxy is a catalysed thermosetting polymer resin. If you mix it with other material you can get a filler or putty.

I'd go with Milliput as I've got some but you could use the old dodge of sawdust and wood glue for a nail hole.

Thanks for all the replies guys!
Meekster's right, I'd like it still to be visible. I ought to have mentioned that in the first place but I didn't realise that epoxy came in putty form.

I took a trip out to the hardware store earlier. I don't take much convincing to go there...and came back with some of the Araldite double syringe resin and a stick of putty as well ("Pasta Adhesiva" the Spanish translation calls it, though I don't plan to use any on my lunch)

I'll have a bit of a play with some scrap wood tomorrow but at the moment my thoughts are to use to putty to fill the bulk of the hole and then top off the last little bit with the resin, so at a glance it still looks like a hole. I like to keep it as a feature but don't want it starting to enlarge or disintegrate with wear. Sod's law says that if I did leave it alone I'd catch it on every pointy object within a 5 mile radius.

I'd fill it with CA, let it harden and sand smooth.

I'd fill it with CA, let it harden and sand smooth.

That would work

and crystal clear as well

Another tip on the syringes

push out your equal amounts then tip it back up and pull the syringe plunger back a 1/4" (don't know the Metric Eqiv) that will leave the tip clearer when you put the cap back on

Epoxy can be had in clear liquid form, I've only seen industrial size though, otherwise it sets a nasty translucent yellow.

Cyanacrylate (CA) aka superglue (right-pond) can be had in glass-clear runny form that is idea for filling small holes and chips in finishes - build up in layers. It will adhere and set quicker if you slightly moisten the hole to start with. In that quantity it will fume a fair bit and you'll want the doors open. I only buy small bottles because the big bottles soon set solid once opened even if kept in the fridge.

You could fill with the putty and cap with superglue.

I've got two holes in the back of a tele where I failed to fit another strap button, I just droppered some black paint into them, I must get a tuit and putty them in, the terracotta brown will be practically invisible on red.

How big is this hole that attracts pointy objects? Was it a huge nail?

Another tip on the syringes

push out your equal amounts then tip it back up and pull the syringe plunger back a 1/4" (don't know the Metric Eqiv) that will leave the tip clearer when you put the cap back on

Better still, buy the stuff in separate tubes and don't mix the caps up, they will last for years in the fridge. I find those syringes are use twice and throw away. Those conjoined foil sachets with the instruction card and tongue depressor for mixings are handy. But you pay more for less with fancy packaging. ;-)

How big is this hole that attracts pointy objects? Was it a huge nail?

Not enormous, but hardly a pin either. I've just been poking about with the calipers. The main hole is about 8mm (0.3") in diameter, widening to just over 10mm (0.4") at the opening. I also found that the little depth gauge went in a lot further than I'd thought: 42mm (1.6") deep.

Since the hole goes in at a angle to the edge of the body I've got no aesthetic problem filling most of it with the putty, as you can't see much beyond the first 1/4" or so without tilting it just so and using a torch. The superglue is a great tip, I'll add it in to my experimenting.



You know, it would probably be a lot simpler if I found a nail to knock in instead. :roll:
I could probably find a way to use it as a bottle opener. Hmm...

Selleys kneadit.

Thanks :grin:

Geez guys he's filling a nail hole, not building a canoe...LOL
.......:lol:......+1