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1st Build - a few questions

Sandwedg
October 29th, 2009, 01:33 PM
Hey all!

I am in the 30 day waiting period while the clear coat cures out. I have a few questions now that I am committed to this thang. It has gone really well so far, thanks to everyone here!

1. I purchased a Musikraft neck (all maple, 1 3/4" w/ tusq nut, fat boat) and I realized after-the-fact that I had ambered and lacquered the nut. Should I remove this? what is the best way? Mask off the neck and slowly rub it with lacquer thinner or naptha and a Q-tip?

2. Is there any tips here for setting the bridge and neck (alignment and shimming etc...)? I have searched and I haven't found much.

3. I have a few sags in the clear around the neck pocket and cut-out (not bad, you have look pretty hard in the sunshine to see them). Will they sand out?? I realize this is probably impossible to answer. I used 3 cans of Deft clear between the body and the neck and they never really "melted" away.

Thanks in advance!

Bud Green
October 29th, 2009, 02:26 PM
Hi Sandwedg

1) I would only worry about it if the appearance bothers you. If yes, then lacquer thinner should take care of it.

2) Are the neck holes drilled? If yes, skip to step two. put the neck into the pocket, and clamp it in a way that you still have clearance for your E strings. Pad the clamp. You can hold it in place with your hand, I guess, but you really should clamp it. Put the E strings on, and align the neck so the strings run parallel to the edges of the neck. Get a drill bit that is the same size as the body holes, you want a close fit. When the neck is aligned, carefully mark the neck through the body holes. Don't drill it, just make a mark. Take the neck off, and get it to your drill press, or flat on your workbench. Take a neck screw and put it through the neck plate, through the body, and measure the amount of screw sticking out into the neck pocket. this is your depth to drill the neck. Measure the shank of the neck screw between the threads. This is the size of the drill. Take a piece of masking tape and fold it around the drill bit at your depth measurement. Carefully drill the holes where you marked the neck with the bigger drill, right in the center of the holes. Be careful to get the holes perpendicular to the flat mounting surface of the neck, and be very careful nut to go past the tape or to push the tape farther onto the drill bit. Check your tape after each hole. Mount the neck to the body with the plate and snug it down, but don't tighten it down all the way yet. Put your E strings on again and align the neck. Tighten the screws, and check alignment again. Don't shim it unless you absolutely can't compensate with saddle height. You shouldn't have to shim it.

3) Three cans of lacquer should be pretty thick. Wet sand it with 600. Use a block if you can.

Cheers!

Bud Green
October 29th, 2009, 02:34 PM
...oh, one more thing: The screw shouldn't grab the body holes at all. If the screw doesn't go through the body freely, open those holes until it does. You only want the screws to bite the neck, not the body.

Cheers