Neck tint spray laquer

Hey Guys,

If I wanted to spray tint a screaming white maple neck what shouls I use. I know re ranch has a tinted spray laquer but are there others?

Any help always great.

Thanks

Gary

Mohawk has a ton of different toners you can use. If you can find a distributor in town they are a 1/4 of what reranch costs. It doesnt take much, can probably do 20 necks with one can. Then just apply a clear coat. Alot of people like to use Tru-Oil as well.

http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=170

http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/mhk_cds/color_chart/Color%20Chart.pdf

Thanks Sheperd

What color of theirs do you find woks best?

Gary

This one was finished with Reranch Tinted Clear, followed by several coats of Deft Clear. You have to go easy with the Tinted Clear or it will go past amber to an orange-ish color.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v12/blackbelt308/51pinecaster4.jpg

I've done several necks this way and have been very happy with the results.

Ciao,
Rick

This one was finished with Reranch Tinted Clear, followed by several coats of Deft Clear. You have to go easy with the Tinted Clear or it will go past amber to an orange-ish color.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v12/blackbelt308/51pinecaster4.jpg

I've done several necks this way and have been very happy with the results.

Ciao,
Rick


What's the prep required on a shiny sticky fender neck prior to tinting? :confused:

I mix my own now but the light walnut is pretty good, so is amber but they get dark quick. You need very light coats. Best would be to see actual colour samples in the store. The catalogue samples arent very accurate. You can just grab a few colours and see what you like. Good thing is if you screw up it's very powdery and comes off with just a little steel wool.
Tonemonkey, you can just dull the finish with some 0000 steel wool.

Hey All

ANYBODY IN THE BOSTON AREA WHO WANTS MOHAWK PRODUCTS THEY ARE VUE-ABLE AT A SHOW ROOM IN NORTH READING AT A PLACE CALLED RICHELIEU 978 664 0982

GARY

What's the prep required on a shiny sticky fender neck prior to tinting?

Take the shine off with a green 3M scrub pad, wipe thoroughly with mineral spirits & allow to dry, final wipe with a tack cloth to remove lint, etc. Spray da lacquer!

Ciao,
Rick

Hey All

ANYBODY IN THE BOSTON AREA WHO WANTS MOHAWK PRODUCTS THEY ARE VUE-ABLE AT A SHOW ROOM IN NORTH READING AT A PLACE CALLED RICHELIEU 978 664 0982

GARY

You might need a business account to deal with them from what I heard.

Thanks guys, what could possibly go wrong?:wink:

You might need a business account to deal with them from what I heard.

When I called them the woman told me I could just drop by the show room and buy or order what I need. All though the show room is not open on weekends which leads me to believe the "public" is not that welcome?

Gary

You might need a business account to deal with them from what I heard.

When I called them the woman told me I could just drop by the show room and buy or order what I need. All though the show room is not open on weekends which leads me to believe the "public" is not that welcome?

Gary

'Cause most of their customers don't work the weekends. Richelieu is mostly wholesale business yes.

Check your local Woodcraft store.

I would also buy a scrap piece of maple to practice on. It will save you a lot of money and headaches in the long run.

http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/dist_lookup.asp

They have 2 different types, dye based, which lets the grain show thru
http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=171

and pigment based, which covers more
http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=170

I've used their amber dye based on a curly maple neck after 2 coats of sanding sealer, use light coats & keep it moving. Stop, take a break after the light coat, let it set up & then decide if it needs more. Don't ask how I know this. BTW, laquer thinner on a rag takes this stuff right off if you happen to spray on too much.

While finding something on their website can be daunting, I have had good experiences with Pond Cove Paint (http://www.pondcovepaint.com/).

http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/dist_lookup.asp

They have 2 different types, dye based, which lets the grain show thru
http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=171

and pigment based, which covers more
http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=170

I've used their amber dye based on a curly maple neck after 2 coats of sanding sealer, use light coats & keep it moving. Stop, take a break after the light coat, let it set up & then decide if it needs more. Don't ask how I know this. BTW, laquer thinner on a rag takes this stuff right off if you happen to spray on too much.

Forgot to mention you have to scroll down to see the info on the page. Very weird, took me hours & a bunch of bad words to figure that out. Tried to edit my post but couldn't figure that out either.:lol::lol:

How do you get the finish out of the frets?

I have a Squire CV DuoSonic with a pale neck I'd like to refinish with some tint

How do you get the finish out of the frets?



Fingernail

Hey Guys,

If I wanted to spray tint a screaming white maple neck what shouls I use. I know re ranch has a tinted spray laquer but are there others?

Any help always great.

Thanks

Gary


Amber Shellac - just spray a foot away.
Check out my white neck Hwy One in my photos.

Once the lacquer has gotten really crispy, I make a fret leveling tool similar to what Mr. Ron Kirn does, and clean off and level the frets in a single operation. Before you apply the finish in the first place, you can use a "Q-Tip" coated in wax to carefully rewax (release agent) the frets after the rest of the neck was fully cleaned and deglossed. If you remember to do that, the lacquer comes off the frets pretty easy.

I used to layer the toner on heavy for a dark result, and it meant the neck looked stupid for weeks while I waited for the lacquer to dry enough to fool with the frets. Now I:

Go easy with the coating;

Hit the fretboard surface at a perfect 90 degree angle for less "penumbra" effect;

Don't try to shift the tone of the maple so far; and

Have enough other projects on tap that necks can sit up untouched for a month or so.

And do that wax thing. If the lacquer is still tacky when you start to flake it off, it will re-adhere like freckles, here and there all over the face of the fretboard. Time this removal process far enough along to avoid this mess. Nothing wrong with installing the neck and playing it with toner on the frets. Just looks goofy, that's all.

Amber Shellac - just spray a foot away.
Check out my white neck Hwy One in my photos.

Can you spary shellac over a synthetic clear finish? (like my pale Squire CV DuoSonic neck)

Do not use shellac on a guitar, it doesn't handle moisture well at all.. by moisture I mean the light perspiration from laying your arm on the body as you pick, and of course, the overt sweating from playing in hot. stuffy bars, but no boy play in them do they? :wink:

Ron Kirn

amber shellac in clear laquer this.works just fine and will dry rock hard unlike plain shellac witch deems to stay kinda soft. i do live in south texas and it is usually pretty hot down here though. so paint tends to dry pretty quick,hey maybe thats why im always thirsty as well?

Hi I hope it's ok to hijack a bit,
I am in the process of finishing my first vintage style allparts neck. I am using reranch nitroclear gloss and reranch tinted Fender amber. The process I am following is shooting 7 coats of clear and I want to sandwich a layer of amber tint between the base and final clear.

Questions I have:
1. Should I level/sand out my base clear before tinting with amber?
2. Should I lay wet clear prior to tinting with amber to allow give my amber better adhesion?
3. I live in a warm 70's, relatively moderate climate (no rain in months). How long should I wait after the last coat of clear before sanding?

Thanks,
-Mike

I want to know this too

1. Only if you have any imperfections. You should spray the amber before the clear. Less chance of sanding thru and it will give you more depth as well.
2. No. Lacquer will melt into each previous coat.
3. Depends on how thick the coats are and how much time passed between coats. If it starts to roll up when you sand instead of forming dust or if you can leave a mark when pressing with your fingernail it's still too soft.

Thanks Shepherd for the pointers :-)

I am spraying 3-4 times per day, and waiting 60 or more minutes between coats. I waited 9 hours b/t the 4rth and 5th coat, and I am on coat 7. Going thin, but looking for wet coverage. I see dimples, but am assuming that after many coats I'll have enough down to be able to level it in the final stage.

These is just with 7 layers of clear only.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3498/4076987094_9186c927d8.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3289/4076230837_86e6eb60b0.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2477/4076230989_5db91b8bf8.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3530/4076988070_72c43bff5a.jpg

Thanks again,
Mike

Looks like your holding the spray can too close while spraying. It takes alot of sanding to get those out. You might want to give that a light sanding now to make it easier later, and watch out sanding the edges, then a couple more coats. If you place the can in some warm water first it will help the lacquer to flow out smoother.

Looks like your holding the spray can too close while spraying. It takes alot of sanding to get those out. You might want to give that a light sanding now to make it easier later, and watch out sanding the edges, then a couple more coats. If you place the can in some warm water first it will help the lacquer to flow out smoother.

Ok will do.

Thanks,
Mike

I used wool lube, and 400 grit wet/dry and leveled most of the orange peel.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2441/4077241252_318cf9f530_b.jpg

I'll let the neck dry and begin tomorrow.

Really appreciate you saving me at an early point.
-Mike

gosh! it looks wonderful Mike!
so smooth and natural!

gosh! it looks wonderful Mike!
so smooth and natural!

:confused:

:shock:

? I like how it looks now, like an old noble forniture with natural aging by use. Smooth and nice. No artificial gloss

Do shellac produce similar results?

I used wool lube, and 400 grit wet/dry and leveled most of the orange peel.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2441/4077241252_318cf9f530_b.jpg

I'll let the neck dry and begin tomorrow.

Really appreciate you saving me at an early point.
-Mike

Just an FYI you can go to the RICHELIEU show room you can buy a single can of Mohawk Amber Tint for a big $ 5.00. What could be better than that?

Gary

:confused:

:shock:


I have to say again, I am grateful for posting bad pics, and getting quick and honest feedback. Shepherd being the first. I can't imagine getting 12+ coats in to finally realize I blew it at the first coat. Shepherd, thanks for saving me.

and it's seriously OK laugh or wince at this attempt. I own it, and can take it.

It's obviously a new process for me, and that's why I am here doin it.

Fernando,
thank you for the nice words bro. This is after using wool lube and nearly sanding wood. It really felt smooth. If I were finishing a pool cue, I would love for it to have feel that this neck has in the last pics.

-Mike

If you like the feel of the neck now, here's a tip that will put a permanent smile on your face. After the final coat and it's sanded smooth, take some 0000 steel wool and use it to apply wood paste wax to the back of the neck or the whole thing if you like. Just work it in like your sanding the neck and then buff it out with a rag. The more you buff it the slicker it gets. Mind you the steel wool does leave fine scratches but if you go with the grain they aren't too noticeable.

If you like the feel of the neck now, here's a tip that will put a permanent smile on your face. After the final coat and it's sanded smooth, take some 0000 steel wool and use it to apply wood paste wax to the back of the neck or the whole thing if you like. Just work it in like your sanding the neck and then buff it out with a rag. The more you buff it the slicker it gets. Mind you the steel wool does leave fine scratches but if you go with the grain they aren't too noticeable.


Neat Shepherd! I'll pick up a can of wood paste wax.

Thanks again :-)

-Mike

and it's seriously OK laugh or wince at this attempt. I own it, and can take it.

It's obviously a new process for me, and that's why I am here doin it.



I think you misunderstand, this was not a pop at your neck, but a joke at the expense of the quoted post which was a little bit too.........weird!

The neck looks gorgeous, and I'm sure you are too! :wink:

See? I can be weird too.

I think you misunderstand, this was not a pop at your neck, but a joke at the expense of the quoted post which was a little bit too.........weird!

The neck looks gorgeous, and I'm sure you are too! :wink:

See? I can be weird too.

Thank TM for the kind words.
I think my neck, looked like cheap cheese pizza. :shock: Funny thing is/was I had no clue what good bad or ugly was supposed to look like 1/2 way through clear coating. At first I was mortified when the really, really nice but what did you do/use comments came back. haha. It is freeing to embrace mistakes, and fix them. I'll be happy when it looks and feels good.

See ya,
-Mike