analog or digital MM

hey brothers,
will my old trusty analog multi meter do the job for test points in the near future...or should I buy a digital meter :?:

iggy

Ideally you could have both. Since you already have an analog meter, adding a digital is not too expensive these days. The digitals are generally easier to use but some adjustments are easier with an analog meter. Its easier to see a trend while watching a needle as opposed to a bunch of flickering digits.

But the bottom line with either type is, is the meter accurate enough to make the measurement you want to make and do you understand the relationship between the scale setting that you're on and the resulting accuracy of the measurement.

Ideally you could have both. Since you already have an analog meter, adding a digital is not too expensive these days. The digitals are generally easier to use but some adjustments are easier with an analog meter. Its easier to see a trend while watching a needle as opposed to a bunch of flickering digits.

But the bottom line with either type is, is the meter accurate enough to make the measurement you want to make and do you understand the relationship between the scale setting that you're on and the resulting accuracy of the measurement.

well I have used this particular meter since about 1980 (does that make it vintage? haha) and am quite familiar with the different scales...considering Fenders own tolerance disclaimer on schematics of +/- 20 % I should be ok but will likely go digital as well...since we are now in the digital age!
iggy

If you're just making voltage measurements in an amp, you're not going to find a tremendous difference between the two types of meters and your old standby would do just fine. But the digitals often have added functions like capacitance measurement that could come in handy.

I've been in the electronics field for 25+ Years and I actually prefer analog meters. I do A LOT of troubleshooting and its much quicker for me to get through a circuit (even digital circuits) because you don't have to actually "read" the meter, you get to where you can just go by the "swing" of the pointer. Sort of like glancing at the hands of an analog watch. Most digital circuits do not have so tight of a tolerance that you need to be exact. Especially when dealing with tubes. The bias will change a small amount after a few hours or days of playing. That's why no one I know uses a scope very much. Although I do own a Tripplett 9040 and a Fluke 87 digital meters. But I usually use my old Weston or Simpson analog meters. They also don't tend to get "flakey" like a digital meter.

I bought my first Fluke copy in the early eighties.Nowadays I have a real Fluke and an Avometer which is very similar to a Simpson.Actually I prefer the Fluke because you never have to think about the polarity and you have a memory function.(you guys know what I am talking about).For some adjustments I use the Avometer because as you mentioned ,a needle is much easier to follow than flashing numbers.When you use the Fluke though,you´re never loading down the circuit.Me,I need them both and a godd scope.Limbe

I bought my first Fluke copy in the early eighties.Nowadays I have a real Fluke and an Avometer which is very similar to a Simpson.Actually I prefer the Fluke because you never have to think about the polarity and you have a memory function.(you guys know what I am talking about).For some adjustments I use the Avometer because as you mentioned ,a needle is much easier to follow than flashing numbers.When you use the Fluke though,you´re never loading down the circuit.Me,I need them both and a godd scope.Limbe

Yes.

I have two Simpson 260s, three or four DMMs, one of those is the superb Fluke 867B which is sort of a junior scope, and two scopes, an old Tek 2245 which is going to die one fine day and be unfixable-all analog Tek scopes EXCEPT the tube ones are effectively on Death Row-and a new LeCroy WaveAce.

A regular old Fluke would be my first purchase. I have a couple of cheapo DMMs but a Fluke is worth what you pay for it. They definitely hold up better than the competition. Then I'd get a GOOD analog passive VOM and maybe a VTVM too. I have two of those and never use them anymore, but you can do fine work with them.

I also have a HP lunchbox audio generator and an Eico signal tracer. They get a lot of use. I hook a dummy load up and use a sinewave for test, then a speaker that is padded down if needed. With that I use a transistor radio with a 1/4" jack whose output is padded down to guitar level. Using a guitar as a test generator is a good way to get electrocuted.

Not to brag but the SERIOUS test gear is off limits to guitar amp work. That wold be the HP 8903 distortion box, and the IFR 1200 Super S service monitor. When visitors are over I will run the CD player output into the mod jack of the IFR and have it broadcast the signal to the radio which drives the amps.