Recessed Elecrosocket Installation

This is my first build and I heard/read about some problems with the stock jack cup holding tight and eventually falling out. I saw the electrosocket type that's held in by two screws and figured that would probably outlast me. But I think the problem with the electrosocket and stock cup is that they both have flat bottoms and on many Telecasters the lower bout is curved. Yes, I could put a flat on the lower bout but I don't care for that look. I prefer the fluid, unbroken curved line…to each their own.

So I'm making a few alterations. I'm moving the jack hole toward the rear strap pin a few degrees to give me a little more leg clearance when playing seated and, at the same time recess the electrosocket so it sits perfectly flat on the curved lower bout.

Now, I’ve got photos of this procedure but I cannot figure out how to get them into this post. Yes, I uploaded them and no, I cannot find them.

I built a jig to hold the body and clamped the body, template and all to the jig. I had previously laid out a centerline for the jack hole and the 7/8" bore outline in pencil onto the template and transferred the centerline over to the body’s side and then marked out the center of the body. I then put the whole assembly onto the drill press lined everything up with a framing square but I knew that was only going to get me close. Clamp the jig to the drill press table

The electrosocket fits into the stock Fender 7/8" bore. The electrosocket’s major dimension is 1" so that gives us a 1/16" lip or seat around the hole’s diameter. Now, know your tools.....my Chinese TiN Forstner bits cut a tiny bit oversize and that’s what I want to allow for finish build-up. DONT TRY THIS WITH CHEAP SPADE BITS OR YOU’LL PROBABLY SEND CHUNKS OF WOOD FLYING ACROSS THE ROOM THAT YOU WOULD PROBABLY WISH WERE STILL ATTACHED TO THE BODY! I had previously cut a piece of scrap and matched the radius of the lower bout and made a test run....everything looked good.

Center the 1" bit over the layout lines and SLOWLY bring the bit in contact with the body. Just as the bit touches, see if it's hitting flat across the body's thickness. If not, shim whatever you've got holding the body so the bit touches evenly. Now check to see if the bit is even across the lower bout's radius. If not perfect, loosen the clamps a bit and rotate the body with a couple of taps from a soft mallet. With everything re-centered, bring the bit back down until the 1" bit makes a perfect circle and then go another 1/64". Now that there is a 1” diameter flat spot, do not unclamp anything or you’ll lose the center. Remove the 1" bit and install a 7/8" Forstner bit. Since nothing has moved on your set-up, the 7/8" bit will center perfectly with the 1" flat that you've created.

I didn't want to bore the 7/8" hole trough to the Control Cavity so I only drilled it 1 1/2" deep...that should be plenty. NOW THIS IS CRITICAL...IF YOU REMOVE THE 7/8" BIT FROM THE BORE TO CHECK THE DEPTH, DO NOT RE-ENTER THE HOLE WITH THE DRILL PRESS RUNNING OR YOU'LL PROBABLY HAVE SOME TEAR-OUT. INSTEAD, PUT THE BIT INTO THE BORE AND THEN TURN ON THE DRILL PRESS.

Once you're satisfied with the 7/8" bore depth (if you're not drilling through to the Control Cavity) drill the wireway with a drill of your choice. I made mine 5/16" and again, since the fixture has not moved, the drill will center perfectly in the bore. Go slowly so you don't tear out as you break through into the Control Cavity.

Drop the elecrosocket into the hole and everything should fit. I'm holding off on drilling the elecrosocket screw holes until the finish is applied.

At what speed do you run your drill press with the Forstner bits?

Run your drill press at the slowest speed.

Yes, Run them slow! I think of Forstner bits as hole saws with internal scrapers. They remove a lot of material and unless your workpiece is quite secure there can be a lot of vibration too. And always remember, the bigger the slower.