Tubescreamer on the fritz

I bought a modded Tubescreamer, a TS-9 with TS-8 guts. Last time we practiced I cut out completely. I removed the Tubescreamer from my chain and I came back. It wasn't a bad cord or anything. I run it off a battery, and the status light still comes on, but it cuts me out completely whether its on or off, and I get no sound. I opened the thing up and blew it out, which is all I knew how to do. I didn't find any broken connections so I'm not sure what to do. I'm about ready to throw it in the trash and buy one of those Danelectro transparent overdrives.

I'll take it Neal!
but seriously,its probably an easy fix.anyone in your area that can take a look at it? I'd start with whatever mods were done to it.

I recently fixed a TS-808 with a similar problem. Turned out ot be the IC.

If it is the IC, then I would suggest installing a chip carrier. That way, if it ever happens again, you won't stress the PCB again by removing the chip (plus it is just plain easier! )

If it is the IC, then I would suggest installing a chip carrier. That way, if it ever happens again, you won't stress the PCB again by removing the chip (plus it is just plain easier! )

+ 1, big time. Not only that, if you're going to the trouble to replace the chip, might as well add a socket. And it keeps the heat off the new chip when soldering. Buy a pile of 4558 chips to go with the socket, and you'll have a "backup plan."

I've seen other stuff fail or malfunction, though:

...I've seen i/o jacks come loose, or the wires to them get loose or fall off, and no signal is passed. That's an easy thing to check. But really inspect them. And if you find a loose one, double check and possibly reinforce other ones that may be an issue down the line.

...There are also all of the wires that go from the mechanical controls (pots, stomp switch, jacks) that can lose their connection at either the board or the control itself. If it's one directly in the signal path, it will do what you describe.

I know that you said that there are no broken connections, but go back and double check them. Even if they seem solid, you could even have a cold solder joint or two, especially since the pedal was modded. Heck - any of the "808 mod" components could have a cold solder joint. If you don't know how to remedy that, take it to someone who does and have them examine and reflow the joints - it will take a half hour, tops. I've seen a boatload of pedals fail for this reason. One little intermittent component joint can really spoil things.

Don't throw it in the trash, even if you replace it with a Dano box. Diagnosing and repairing it could be very rewarding, give you a sense of personal accomplishment, and return to service a pedal that in many ways (IMO) is superior to the Dano.

If the status light is coming on and off when you step on the footswitch, the pedal is not toast! Just something preventing the signal from being passed.

+ 1, big time. Not only that, if you're going to the trouble to replace the chip, might as well add a socket. And it keeps the heat off the new chip when soldering. Buy a pile of 4558 chips to go with the socket, and you'll have a "backup plan."



sorry, I should have said "socket". Not everyone is familiar with the term "chip carrier".

I have a similar problem with my stock TS9. I haven't used it for probably 20 years and I recently dug it out to play around with. My problem is that when I stomp it, nothing happens, I'm unable to get sound through my amp. When the tubescreamer is off, I get a clean signal to the amp and everything is fine. I checked the wires and everything seems OK. Besides the troubleshooting points already given for the original poster, is there anything more specific for my problems that I can try?