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11 Gauge
August 23rd, 2009, 06:23 PM
Hey all -
IDK if this will even generate any interest:shock:, but I did it and it works (well, if you like the Guv'nor, IMO), so here we go...
...I'm not going to include pics or a modified layout or schematic, because I don't want to violate anything. And J.D. Sleep and the gang are awesome, anyways.
Some of these components are to taste, so I'll highlight such.
C1 - .022uF in series w/1K resistor (cap must come first, closest to input)
C2 - open
C3 - .22uF
C4 - 100pF - 150pF (to taste, for mellower vs. brighter highs)
C6 - jumper
C7 - .1uF
C8 - LED clipping diodes
C9 - .01uF - .039uF, depending on size of tone pot (covered below)
C10 - 1uF
R2 - 1K
R3 - open
R4 - bypass stock resistor with a .001uF cap
R7 - 10K
R8 - jumper
R9 - 1uF cap and 1K in series (cap must come first, closest to pin 7 of op amp)
R10 - 1M
*R11 - 100pF - 220pF cap (to taste, for mellower vs. brighter highs)
R12 - pot for variable resistance, for tone control - 10K stock (in CB), but higher values can be used (I used 20K, but it required dropping C9 to .022uF), 100 ohm resistor in series with pot (can solder to either lug)
*D1-D4 - jumper (at least a series pair, to connect new cap in R11's place to feedback loop)
- stock tone control (R16) - short all 3 terminals on board with each other
- 10K resistor in series with input lug (lug "3") of volume pot (R17)
- bypass volume pot lugs 1 and 3 with a 4.7K resistor and .022uF cap in series, alternatively, replace the resistor with a 10K trimpot (I think this is in the V2 and newer CB's), but trimmer is to taste.
- op amp - anything in the 4558 lineage is fine, and it does make a noticable difference over the stock TL072. The CB uses a LM833, which is similar to the JRC chips. The non-jFET op amps are much woolier sounding, and more forgiving of the LED clippers.
...And about those clippers - I used a super bright for one of them. It has two advantages - it conducts at a much lower forward voltage, and you can use it as a status LED, like the Seeing Eye thing from Keeley. It's also advantageous because you can now get away with using a cheaper DPDT footswitch.
*FOOTNOTE: It dawned on me that it would probably be easier just to bypass (piggyback) the small cap to R10, instead of installing it in R11's place. If you do this, leave R11 and D1-D4's spots open.
Like the Guv'nor and most LED clipping boxes, I find the sweet spot to be much lower than the max setting. But if you know someone who plays metal, they could borrow it, no doubt about it. The thing is a scorcher.
Pretty cool tuned version of the Guv'nor, and I like the single tone control. But I think I may like a blender version (like a Muff or DS-1) a bit better - that might be a future tweak.
This one is fun for really high gain, tight tones, and the extra LP filtering makes it behave just a bit better than a stock Guv'nor, IMO, and there's extra midrange crunch as well. But I bet that a JRC class op amp in a Guv would be pretty awesome, too.
IDK if this will even generate any interest:shock:, but I did it and it works (well, if you like the Guv'nor, IMO), so here we go...
...I'm not going to include pics or a modified layout or schematic, because I don't want to violate anything. And J.D. Sleep and the gang are awesome, anyways.
Some of these components are to taste, so I'll highlight such.
C1 - .022uF in series w/1K resistor (cap must come first, closest to input)
C2 - open
C3 - .22uF
C4 - 100pF - 150pF (to taste, for mellower vs. brighter highs)
C6 - jumper
C7 - .1uF
C8 - LED clipping diodes
C9 - .01uF - .039uF, depending on size of tone pot (covered below)
C10 - 1uF
R2 - 1K
R3 - open
R4 - bypass stock resistor with a .001uF cap
R7 - 10K
R8 - jumper
R9 - 1uF cap and 1K in series (cap must come first, closest to pin 7 of op amp)
R10 - 1M
*R11 - 100pF - 220pF cap (to taste, for mellower vs. brighter highs)
R12 - pot for variable resistance, for tone control - 10K stock (in CB), but higher values can be used (I used 20K, but it required dropping C9 to .022uF), 100 ohm resistor in series with pot (can solder to either lug)
*D1-D4 - jumper (at least a series pair, to connect new cap in R11's place to feedback loop)
- stock tone control (R16) - short all 3 terminals on board with each other
- 10K resistor in series with input lug (lug "3") of volume pot (R17)
- bypass volume pot lugs 1 and 3 with a 4.7K resistor and .022uF cap in series, alternatively, replace the resistor with a 10K trimpot (I think this is in the V2 and newer CB's), but trimmer is to taste.
- op amp - anything in the 4558 lineage is fine, and it does make a noticable difference over the stock TL072. The CB uses a LM833, which is similar to the JRC chips. The non-jFET op amps are much woolier sounding, and more forgiving of the LED clippers.
...And about those clippers - I used a super bright for one of them. It has two advantages - it conducts at a much lower forward voltage, and you can use it as a status LED, like the Seeing Eye thing from Keeley. It's also advantageous because you can now get away with using a cheaper DPDT footswitch.
*FOOTNOTE: It dawned on me that it would probably be easier just to bypass (piggyback) the small cap to R10, instead of installing it in R11's place. If you do this, leave R11 and D1-D4's spots open.
Like the Guv'nor and most LED clipping boxes, I find the sweet spot to be much lower than the max setting. But if you know someone who plays metal, they could borrow it, no doubt about it. The thing is a scorcher.
Pretty cool tuned version of the Guv'nor, and I like the single tone control. But I think I may like a blender version (like a Muff or DS-1) a bit better - that might be a future tweak.
This one is fun for really high gain, tight tones, and the extra LP filtering makes it behave just a bit better than a stock Guv'nor, IMO, and there's extra midrange crunch as well. But I bet that a JRC class op amp in a Guv would be pretty awesome, too.