Acrylic lacquer for maple fretboard

Just asking for some opinions on will i be able to get away with acrylic lacquer on the maple fretboard. Rattle can nitro or poly is hard to come by where i'm at. Thanx.

You probably can, but be aware that the fretboard will "relic" itself fairly quickly.

You probably can, but be aware that the fretboard will "relic" itself fairly quickly.

Thats what I heard too.. Some say leaving it bare would cause warping due to moisture, I just don't want that to happen. If it does 'relic' itself', i guess i wld be back at square one huh.

I've used acrylic on necks before with very good results. I spray on about 10 coats and have not noticed any of them turning to relics, even 5 years later.

I've used acrylic on necks before with very good results. I spray on about 10 coats and have not noticed any of them turning to relics, even 5 years later.

That's what i need to hear! thanx man, anyway how long did u wait between coats, and how long after the last coat till you start playing it?

I'm pretty free-for-all with neck finishing. I spray a neck as I walk by and am reminded. Probably at least 2-3 hours between coats, then let it dry for a couple of weeks.
If I do want and honest 'relic' I may only use 2-3 coats.

All lacquer does yellow with time and there's not much that can be done about that, but hey, that's a good thing.

Lacquer really isn't as tempremental (sp? whatever) as people might suggest. Heck, I've buffed out a finish within 24 hours of the last spraying and came out with nice results.

I think the humidity in Singapore is going to be be worst enemy to the acrylic lacquer. I had used this on some furniture I built while we lived in Japan and after about 6 moths it started to crack from the inside out (looked like ice cubes cracked on the inside). Have you considered Tung oil?

I like C Russell's idea, Tung Oil based varnish.

In all cases, terminology and the manner in which things are formulated from one market to another - enormous variations. If the product is mixed and canned in S E Asia, the makers simply must have considered the brutal humidity. How could they not?

I like the Tung Oil based varnish idea better because it is:

More durable;

It is meant to be scuffed back and reapplied from time to time;

Less coverage of that will give you better protection, ounce for ounce.

You know, maybe the wisest thing is to find those in Singapore, in JB and elsewhere in Malaysia, and find out what products they can get and which products actually work.

++

I've been quite loyal to Nitro Lacquer and part of the reason is the amazing lustre when it is buffed. Acrylic lacquers can look neat (I did a few cars in it 35-40 years ago) but what you gain in exterior suitability, you loose in the "lush, decadent appearance" category so Acrylic Lacquer and I are just neighbors, not friends.

Just do it.

I think the humidity in Singapore is going to be be worst enemy to the acrylic lacquer. I had used this on some furniture I built while we lived in Japan and after about 6 moths it started to crack from the inside out (looked like ice cubes cracked on the inside). Have you considered Tung oil?


I have not tried tung oil tho i have heard many recommendations for it. I have read pretty nice things about linseed oil as well. Hmm.. The cracking doesn't sound gd at all. Thanx for ur suggestion!

I like C Russell's idea, Tung Oil based varnish.

In all cases, terminology and the manner in which things are formulated from one market to another - enormous variations. If the product is mixed and canned in S E Asia, the makers simply must have considered the brutal humidity. How could they not?

I like the Tung Oil based varnish idea better because it is:

More durable;

It is meant to be scuffed back and reapplied from time to time;

Less coverage of that will give you better protection, ounce for ounce.

You know, maybe the wisest thing is to find those in Singapore, in JB and elsewhere in Malaysia, and find out what products they can get and which products actually work.

++

I've been quite loyal to Nitro Lacquer and part of the reason is the amazing lustre when it is buffed. Acrylic lacquers can look neat (I did a few cars in it 35-40 years ago) but what you gain in exterior suitability, you loose in the "lush, decadent appearance" category so Acrylic Lacquer and I are just neighbors, not friends.

Boris, it's nice to know someone who seems familiar with this part of the globe too! :D I will try to look for Tung oil.. The only reason which kept me from going with acrylic is that some ppl say it is not a durable finish for a high traffic area such as a fretboard, but going by the suggestions i recieved here, sounds like it's probably going to work just fine. Thanx..! A pint for you if you ever set foot in Singapore.

Just do it.

That's the kind of encouragement I need..! If I can't find Tung oil, I will go with acrylic. Thanx Colt!

You're welcome. No need to make this complicated. It just needs a finish to keep moisture from warping the wood.

I use acrylic bought from a car store on my builds without any problem and get them finished to a really high shine and a great depth of polish too.

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j15/ricplayer/Jazz%20bass%20project/Body3.jpg

this was finished, body and neck, in acrylic and is my number 1 bass.

ricplayer there is a really nice shine off that bass!
What brand was the acrylic you used? It looks really good!
Also where is Dundee as there is a place not far from where I live in Ireland called Dundee? :P

ricplayer there is a really nice shine off that bass!
What brand was the acrylic you used? It looks really good!
Also where is Dundee as there is a place not far from where I live in Ireland called Dundee? :P

Thanks irishtele, the colour coats were Halfords own brand and the clear coat was Simoniz.

http://www.edirectory.co.uk/pf/880/mia/d/simoniz+acrylic+lacquer/pid/444262

Dundee is on the east coast of Scotland, mid way between Aberdeen and Edinburgh.

I use acrylic bought from a car store on my builds without any problem and get them finished to a really high shine and a great depth of polish too.

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j15/ricplayer/Jazz%20bass%20project/Body3.jpg

this was finished, body and neck, in acrylic and is my number 1 bass.

Now that is inspiring..! fantastic finish on that bass.. Do you have any problems with the acrylic chipping off the fretboard? Thanx for sharing!

Now that is inspiring..! fantastic finish on that bass.. Do you have any problems with the acrylic chipping off the fretboard? Thanx for sharing!

Thanks, this bass was finished at least 7 months ago and no chips yet, the finish is nice and hard and the only dings is where I have hit the body off of things.

I prefer a tung oil finish on my necks. Has an almost bare feel to it. It also easy to re apply when needed.

Thanks, this bass was finished at least 7 months ago and no chips yet, the finish is nice and hard and the only dings is where I have hit the body off of things.

Nice.. I assume you went with 6-8 coats and 2 weeks drying time?

I prefer a tung oil finish on my necks. Has an almost bare feel to it. It also easy to re apply when needed.

i wld love to have a bare feel on my fretboard too except, traditional finishes are not easy to come by where I am at, even Tung Oil. Ordering wld take sometime and i don't wana risk leaving it bare for the time being. Thanx for the suggestion..!

Nice.. I assume you went with 6-8 coats and 2 weeks drying time?

About 8 coats over 2 days with 4 weeks drying time and then a lot of wet and dry paper through the various grades, 3M Perfect-It II, Turtle Wax Scratch remover, Meguiars Scratch X and then Zymol polish

About 8 coats over 2 days with 4 weeks drying time and then a lot of wet and dry paper through the various grades, 3M Perfect-It II, Turtle Wax Scratch remover, Meguiars Scratch X and then Zymol polish

How do u sand the lacquer on the fretboard without damaging the frets?

How do u sand the lacquer on the fretboard without damaging the frets?

A small offcut of dressed timber or a pencil rubber with the wet and dry paper wrapped around it. It does take a fair bit of time doing the fretboard, bear in mind that when you spray the fretboard lacquer will get onto the frets and you will need to clean that off too, I just used a lolly stick to rub it off.