COMPLETED -- $100 Telecaster Challenge, Lowecaster!

Hello Everyone -

To be fair to myself, I am not going to read the other $100 threads. That way, I can not steal ideas or borrow techniques. This one is going to be 100%
from my mixed up little head.

An explanation of the name Lowecaster - the name is actually two fold because I intend to make as much of the guitar as possible using materials from Lowes, and the other reason is because Im going to make this a Low sounding tele by making it a Baritone!

I will disclose more as I get parts in the mail and have an oppurtunity to setup of photobucket or similiar site to host my pictures.

30 days is going to be cutting it close, so the I may have to get inventive with some of my parts and finishes.

If you get ideas from mine (Spa-Caster), you are SO welcome to 'em.

Good luck, and may the best builder lose his axe!

Love to see the dedication people inside here are showing.
Good luck!

Good luck Colt. Look forward to seeing progress.

A baritone! The creativity around here is amazing. What I lack in skill I can easily make up in vicarious enjoyment. Good luck!

I don't know about anyone else, but I'm curious as hell.

How about an update. :wink:

Not that I have posted anything. But I can't help noticing some days have gone by...

Sorry everyone. Things got crazy busy down in the holler between work, building customer guitars, and the farm. Well, I now have the time to put this guitar into motion. I thought I was going to have to drop out of the contest, but I was laid off. Now I have plenty of time. So here we go.

Just placed an order with Jay.

1 chrome hardtail bridge with six modern saddles. 10.95$
1 set of gotoh style tuners 21.95$
1 matched pair tele pups, GFS blowout 21.95$
1 set of .047 caps 1.95$ 0nly using one so .975 cents

Grand total so far - 55.83$

Everything else on this guitar will be made from scratch with exception of the input jack, (2) 250 k pots, and a 3 way switch which I have laying around. Those parts new are about 20$, so I will assign a 10$ value to them. If anyone disagrees, I will bump up their projected value.

That puts me up to 65.83$. So I have 34.17$ to buy lumber, screws, finish and materials.

Remember wood prices don't count in the 100 dollars.

Here's the parts I ordered.

Remember wood prices don't count in the 100 dollars.

Yeah, but just because it isn't against the rules, doesn't mean I can't use it as a guideline for my build. Besides, I think that is kinda cheating, because if you spend more than 100$ on materials, it really isn't a 100$ guitar. Not that there is anything wrong doing it the other way. I just think it will be funner ( more fun) on my part to do it this way!

Let the games begin, well for me at least, I think everyone has a two week head start on my now.

I have those tuners on a build of mine. I can't tell the difference between them and a well known brand name set I have on my main strat. I'll be using them again on other builds. Decent tuners for the cash.

I took a little trip to Lowes.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/000_0018.jpg
Then I picked out my body lumber.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/000_0023.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/000_0025.jpg
Now for the finish. I figure I had two options.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/000_0021.jpg
or...

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/000_0019.jpg
Well, I have to confess... I have always wanted a glow-in-the dark guitar, so I am going to take this oppurtunity to build one. Of course, the duct tape would look cool as hell too, but I will save that for the next 100$ build.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/000_0020.jpg

While at Lowes, at picked up one of these for the neck Ill be making. Since making a neck from scratch in two weeks will be cutting close, Im going to skip the truss rod stage and just go with a metal stabilizer bar.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/000_0026.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/000_0027.jpg

So here I am in the check out line.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/000_0028.jpg

5.24$ for the 2x8x8
4.48$ x 2 for the paint
3.97$ for the steel angle

That's another 18.17$ to the project for the total of

84.00$

That leaves me 16.00$ for bits and pieces.

I think I may just make this budget and deadline yet.

Anyway, when I got back home in the Super Duty, yet light weight, Ford Ranger
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/000_0029.jpg
I had visitors who were curious as to what I was up to.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/000_0031.jpg
Moose
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/000_0032.jpg
Mason
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/000_0033.jpg
Bocephus

you should have done faux binding out of duct tape:)

you should have done faux binding out of duct tape:)

I'll give that a try. I won't promise it is going to work out though, but we will sure as hell try.

Alrighty, now it's time to get starting making the neck. But what should I make the neck from? Where can a country boy from some holler in West Virginia find a suitable source of dry hardwoods? Hmm ... I may have a source...
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_0960.jpg
Look at all the beautiful, aged and dry oak. It's even the proper thickness.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_0962.jpg
Let's see if Zeb approves.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_0964.jpg
I don't think he is too fond of the idea.

Let's see if we can persuade him.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_0965.jpg
I think that did it,
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_0963.jpg
he let me in the door.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_0973.jpg
This old floor board is serving no purpose at the moment, and it is dimensioned perfectly for my needs. Let’s just pry that sucker up.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_0974.jpg

For those of you who want to know what natural light does to minwax wipe on poly over a few years of exposure, here you go...
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_0976.jpg
And...let me just thank Zeb one more time for letting me tear up his barn.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_0966.jpg
Now we have to turn this
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_0981.jpg
into this
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_0980.jpg

Then onto dimensioning the lumber
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_0994.jpg
Fellows, if you own a tablesaw, I highly recommend these Rigid featherboards. They have two magnets on them that make setting them up extremely easy, much better than those old style deals that slide into the miter guage rail.

Here is what the oak looks like all dimensioned and planed to thickness.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_0996.jpg
I still need a fingerboard, and I figured the the traditional Maple would work just fine. I have a pretty big stack since my cousin who is a sawyer cut a bunch of Maple boards for me back a few years ago.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_0997.jpg
The mighty Craftsman 19.2 volt system has no problems slicing through this 3/4" maple.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_0998.jpg
I think the contrast of the maple and oak will look nice when the neck is completed.

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_0999.jpg

Now I get all confused with the mule vs. ass vs. burro vs. hinny vs. donkey thingy..

But Why do I picture a bunch of ______________ in tent on your property when you get done making Gits outta that barn ??

After I was done with this work, I decided I needed to clean up all the sawdust. I got out my 16 gallon Rigid shop vac out, and started sucking up all the shaving. Well, there was this one piece of metal, a tiny sliver that wouldn't suck up into my shop vac. I reached down and picked it up.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_0984.jpg
Damn, I think I know where this belongs... Let me check...
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_0992.jpg
Yup, Crapola! It was a cutter blade off my relatively new Bosch Pattern following bit. I have only ever routed the edge of three pinecasters and two MDF templates with it. I am very careful with my tools, so I think someone has been messing around in Uncle Colt's workshop. Probably those freakin' gnomes. I hate those guys. Every time you try to sit down in the shed, the pointy part of there hats poke you in the rear.

Now I get all confused with the mule vs. ass vs. burro vs. hinny vs. donkey thingy..

But Why do I picture a bunch of ______________ in tent on your property when you get done making Gits outta that barn ??

Donkey=Ass=Burro
Ass is an older term, think biblical
Donkey is the modern term we use in the USA
Burro is used a lot more in the south west, and some like to refer to a burro as a really hairy donkey or a ferrel donkey.
A mule is the sterile offspring of a Male(jack) donkey and a mare (female horse). A Hinny is the cross between a stud/stallion(male horse) and a female donkey(jenny).
Lucky enough for the donkey and the miniature horses he lives with, I have a whole other stable and a few sheds for him to live in, if he becomes homeless due to the guitar building process.

I have a little figuring to do on the neck size...
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1002.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1007.jpg
I assure you, those are actual figures, even though they appear crude and unintelligible.
Now we just need to extrapolate the "figures" to the oak board, but first a centerline, well off center line, to allow for the headstock shape.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1005.jpg

That is as far as I made it today. I had to take my mother to the doctor, so I kind of dropped the project in mid stream. My mother is okay by the way, it was just a routine visit.

Very clean work, Colt - lookin' good. Hope you make it in time, but even if not, I'd like to see the finished product. Dayglo body with oak/maple neck! Not something you see every day!

Neighbors down the road from me raise miniature horses and have a small donkey. Man that little guy is loud.

Shedocaster? :shock:

Very clean work, Colt - lookin' good. Hope you make it in time, but even if not, I'd like to see the finished product. Dayglo body with oak/maple neck! Not something you see every day!

Thanks Mark. Unless something terrible happens, I should have this guitar done this weekend.

Jack - Those little guys can sure pull some volume out of their diaphram. I bet ole Poveratti wishes he could draw a note out like those little jacks.

Shedocaster? :shock:

Well, just one piece of the entire guitar is going to come from that old barn, so I don't think that term is going to be appropriate.

Let me see what I can get done this afternoon. First, let’s use some of that geometry stuff we learned in high school to layout the neck shape on the oak board.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1009.jpg
Then freehand the peg head shape from memory.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1010.jpg
I know, I know, you are saying, “Colt, don’t you want to check your rough sketch against an actual tele to see if you drew it out correctly?” My answer is, “No.” It’s just going to be what it is.
Of course, I am going to have to set up the router table with some sort of jig to route out the truss bar channel.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1015.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1016.jpg

I will do the actual routing in three passes to reduce fatigue on the bit, and to keep shaving from building up underneath and screwing with the channel depth. Here is a cheap gauge I picked up on sale at Sears. Worth every penny I paid for it. It came with a table saw measuring gauge as well, much easier than trying to use a ruler.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1017.jpg
Let’s see if that angle iron fits in there.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1018.jpg
Yup. While it is in there, I will just mark where I need to relieve the neck for the side piece of the angle.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1019.jpg
Then realign my jig for a ½” router bit
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1019.jpg

That worked out well.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1020.jpg
Now onto to the bandsaw, and rough cut that sucker out.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1021.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1022.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1023.jpg

Now for my newest tool… The Rigid oscillating spindle/belt sander. This guy is dangerous on pine, but works amazingly well on hard woods.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1024.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1025.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1026.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1027.jpg

Let’s just see how well my geometry and paper figuring did on this neck…
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1029.jpg
Score, it fits. Let’s see how well the headstock turned out.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1030.jpg
Now I need to cut the truss bar to length
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1031.jpg
And for this daunting chore, I get to use one of my favorite tools, the Milwaukee portable band saw. Seriously, it slices through steel like a hot knife through butter. It is a must have for anyone who cuts a lot of metal stuff. You can even set it up in a vice and use it to cut shapes.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1032.jpg

Looks like it was made to fit together like that. I swear, I spent a fortune on tools to finally be able to create stuff like this. Ever watch ole Norm Abrahm on the New Yankee Workshop. I am jealous of how many nifty tools that guy has. I think he has a specific tool for ever minute little thing possible. One day, I hope to have stuff like that.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1033.jpg
Then I have to plane that maple plank down to a ¼” for the fret board.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1036.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1039.jpg
That went well. Now for cutting it into a workable size.

Ah yes ............. ole Norm and his dedicated mortising machine.

All right! Looks good so far. I'm glad to see the progress you have made. It looks as though I could walk down the road and pet Zeb.

Zeb likes to be scratched, and he welcomes all visitors. I am over in South Charleston if you ever want to bring the wife and kids by to visit the horses.

At this point, I know what ya'll are saying," You can't use a mild steel bar in a neck, won't that just kill the tone?" No, no it won't, and I will tell you why. I covered it with a thin coat of nitro, so now the inert truss rod will be allowed to breath in its little neck sarcophagus.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1050.jpg
Breathing is the key to good tone, but I think you all know that already. ;)

Then cut the fingerboard into a workable size.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1041.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1040.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1044.jpg

Then I need to glue up the neck and finger board.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1051.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1052.jpg
I preach about the necessity of clamps to all new wood workers, and as you can see, I have a fair collection. But… not nearly enough yet.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1048.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1054.jpg
Now, I will let that sit in the sunlight on top of my shed to dry. When you are working in the deep hollers of West Virginia, you have less direct sunlight available in a day’s time because of the mountains and thick deciduous foliage.

While the neck is drying in the precious sunlight, I will go to work making that 2x8 a body blank.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1057.jpg
I select two section that have no knots on the edge for joining ease, and no cracks or splits. Then go to work using the mighty craftsman 19.2 volt circular saw.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1060.jpg
You are saying to yourself at this point, “ Well that might have cut through the 4 x3/4 maple, but there is no way it will cut up that big ole 2x8.” You are half right, I only made one cut before the battery died and I had to switch the reliable skill saw. http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1061.jpg
Now I just need to go to my antique/inherited joiner, and get rid of those pesky rounded over edges.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1062.jpg

Here they are together,
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1063.jpg
Glued,
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1065.jpg
Clamped,
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1066.jpg
You maybe wondering about those big honking chunks of C channel. My dad got those for me to lay on wood I laminate. Naturally, on good wood I would sand and polish that metal to a clean bright sheen, but for a 2x8, no such luck.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1064.jpg

Here are some of my essential work tools. The mighty craftsman 19.2 cordless AM/FM/ MP3/Weatherband radio.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1070.jpg
The Rigid 16 gallon shop vac.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1068.jpg
The good thing about the shaving I acquire is that they make good dry bedding for the stable.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1072.jpg
PT and Rocky always enjoy a good roll in fresh sawdust, but they appear to be a bit camera shy today.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1071.jpg

Here they are together,
...
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1066.jpg
...


Too bad you're dayglowing this thing. You could feature a knot or two in a strategic spot!

Too bad you're dayglowing this thing. You could feature a knot or two in a strategic spot!

I thought about leaving it as is with the lumber stamps and all, but it needed a lot of sanding to clean up my sloppy glue job, and there are a lot of gouges and rough spots on the blank. Besides, I promised the forum a glow in the dark guitar, so a glow in the dark guitar I will deliver.

needed a lot of sanding to clean up my sloppy glue job

Glue, scrape with a utility blade first, sand last. Also, I saw you mentioned how fast paper takes pine away.. Boy isn't that the truth?

I started using a poplar board 2' long by 3" wide I put some 120 with the sticky back to keep the pine level and only hit it briefly with the sander anymore with the pine. Get mice level pine faces and backs with this method, you use the board like a big file pretty much. The pad on the sander rides over the rings and eats the soft wood between too fast. So I learned to move away from the sander. ;)

Thanks for the advice Robert.

One of the main problems I had with this particular glue job was the lumber warped long ways after cutting it away from the 2x8. So I didn't get a nice level glue job. I had to level it out(somewhat) with the ole sander. You know what, I just forgot, I have a hand planer ( Part of my mighty 19.2 craftsman series)I should have tried out. The only thing I have found any use for it so far is for trimming doors.

didn't get a nice level glue job. I had to level it out(somewhat) with the ole sander.

Don't rule out clamping it along the seam to force the board's to line up along the seam. I use wax paper, lay 2x4 piece on the face and back and clamp them snug, then tighten the clamps holding the pieces together and then crank the clamps along the seam on the face and back. Just remember with pine if you clamp too tight even to a block on the face or back it can dig into the pine. So use big blocks so the clamping force is distributed.

I even had on so bad I wax papered, then put 3/4" birch on both sides, [my drop top clamping boards] then 2x4s on the flat to crank the clamps and it did not leave and block marks doing it that way. Have fun!

Yank these clamps off.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1073.jpg
Then get rid of that pesky overhang around the fingerboard.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1074.jpg
Setup the router to plane the peg head down.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1075.jpg
Working very carefully…
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1077.jpg

Roughly, I have something that looks like this now.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1076.jpg
Switching up the bits, I put a little round over on the angle closer to where the nut will be. Then I clean it up on the old oscillating spindle sander.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1079.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1080.jpg
I end up with something along these lines.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1082.jpg

Mark for the nut, and set the neck aside for right now.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1083.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~7511/pics/wheresthebeef.JPG

I have lost an entire group of photos somewhere, so you will have to imagine me picking out the best place to put the routing template on the blank. Then imagine me posting pics of that particular action, and ending up at this point where I am cutting the rough shape out with a band saw. This series of pictures will be cellphone pics because I was too lazy to fetch my good camera.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/cellphone8.jpg
Then I use the spindle sander to bring the edge closer the line for routing.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/cellphone4.jpg
Then there are some missing routing photos...
And I end up at this point...
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/cellphone2.jpg
As you will notice, I was only able to run my pattern following bit so far along the edge. Before I got my oscillating spindle sander I would just grab a bottom bearing bit and route this little lip off. However, this is short work with the spindle sander.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/cellphone5.jpg

Now back to the neck.
I fretted for the longest time on exactly how I was going to radius the fret board. Then I said to myself,” Self, quit your b#$%^ing, and just look it up in the Redneck wood working manual.” Well, I did that, and under making a guitar neck it said,” Git er done.” So I did just that. I started with making the radius sanding block. Again, consulting the redneck manual. I made my lines using a drywall screw, hay string, and a pencil. Cut it out to rough shape with band saw, and smoothed her up with the spindle sander.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1095.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1096.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1100.jpg
Then repeat to get a nice thick sanding block
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1101.jpg

I glue the pieces together as close to square as possible, then clamp, the drill and hold the pieces together with drywall screws so I can dismiss the bulky clamps. Then true everything up with the spindle and belt sander.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1102.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1104.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1105.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1108.jpg
That little block came out nicely.

Before I get started putting the radius on the neck, I will make a nice flush cut with my leatherman saw for future nut placement reference.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1109.jpg
Then onto putting the radius block to use.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1110.jpg
A whole lot of work, and two worn out arms later, I have the finished radius. Which turned out very nice. Better than I expected.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1112.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1113.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1111.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1114.jpg

Back to the body
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1086.jpg
Apply some 3M double side tape in order to attach the router template.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1087.jpg
Can anyone point out what I screwed up on in the last photo?
Routing cavities.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1088.jpg
Routed Cavities
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1090.jpg

Mark for the input jack.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1091.jpg
Drilling the input jack hole.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1092.jpg
Then start applying wood filler to the knots, gouges, and scrapes…
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1093.jpg
I really like using a sharp-wide chisel for this because you can really push the wood filler down in the hole, then you can use your sharp edge to remove the excess flush with the top. This process also lets you reuse your waste/scraped up wood filler.

Now back to the neck. Contouring the back...
I will be using three tools. An antique draw knife my granpa gave me, the Oscillating belt sander, and the Milwaukee 1/4 sheet sander.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1120.jpg
I had to a lot of work to that draw knife to get it usable again. My grandpa tried to sharpen it with a grinder. Friends don't let friends sharpen things with a bench grinder!!!
Had to grind the proper radius back on it, use a 1" belt sander to put the edge back, then sharpen, polish, and temper the edge again. Now it is like a razor blade.
Im not going to post many in progress shots here, because this is a pain to do, and I cut myself trying to take a picture of myself using the draw knife.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1117.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1122.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1124.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1128.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1127.jpg

Well, that is all I have for you right now.

Oh yeah, did I forgit to tell y'all that this is going to be a fretless, baritone pinecaster?
Well, if I did, it is.

Being a genuine dog whisperer, I can tell you that the correct caption for Bo is:
"You've gotta be kidding. If he throws that stick, he's gonna go get it himself".

http://home.comcast.net/~7511/pics/wheresthebeef.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~7511/pics/wheresthebeef.JPG

Robert, I think he is more upset that I put all my tools up on the saw horse so that he can't pee on them.

Being a genuine dog whisperer, I can tell you that the correct caption for Bo is:
"You've gotta be kidding. If he throws that stick, he's gonna go get it himself".

http://home.comcast.net/~7511/pics/wheresthebeef.JPG

Bocephus doesn't fetch anything. He just likes to chase things. It's hillarious to watch him chase something. It's amazing how fast he can run baying like he does. However, if whatever critter he is chasing just quits running, he will stop dead in his tracks and wait for them to resume play. One time he tree'd a guinea in our front yard, and the guinea and Bocephus made friends. The Guinea who mysteriously appeared one day, decided to stay. He lived at our house for years, until he died.

I must say Kudos to Ron Kirn, Jwells, Terry Downs, Ed Hawley, Bucko, and everyone else who posts and maintain all their build threads. These damn things are a bear.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/ColtandBear2.jpg
Bears enjoy Twinkees more than I do, so I was happy to share in return for his friendship. I will be the first to atest to the fact it's better to have a bear as your friend, than a bear who doesn't like people who refuse to share.

Okay everyone, more updates.
I learned a valuable lesson while putting the roundover on this particular body. I wanted to keep things different, so I went with a 3/8" roundover bit. However, the bearing sits further down on the body, and that is where the 7/8" input jack hole is located. You could imagine my dismay when I encountered this problem.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1133.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1131.jpg
It's okay though, because I have some of this stuff. It's kinda like Billy Mayes magic putty, but available at wal mart. I am so through with bondo, this stuff is much easier to apply, sand, doesn't smell god awful, doesn't eat my skin, and it's cleaner to use.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1137.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1138.jpg
I took the liberty of filling in a few low spots, gouges, and knots all at the same time.

While that two part epoxy was drying I went ahead and marked the string through holes and bridge location.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1144.jpg
After sanding the epoxy down, I am extremely pleased with its results.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1146.jpg

Then I need to make sure the neck and body line up nice.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1149.jpg
Damn, I've seen willow branches straighter than that.
Lets just clamp it up, route the pocket straight and check it with a string. It all worked out in the end.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1153.jpg

Now I need to take my neck pocket jig and mark the neck attachment holes in the body and neck.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1154.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1155.jpg
Then I can take the same jig, and make a neck plate. This is where I am going to reveal another top secret special tip. Thick dense neck plates = GREAT TONE AND LASTING SUSTAIN. So what do you think, 1/4" brass flat bar? That should make this neck plate a monster shouldn't it. ;)
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1156.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1158-1.jpg

I get to use one of my favorite tools to rough cut the neck plate.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1159-1.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1161-1.jpg
After a little bit of grinding, 1" belt sanding, and buffing, we get something like this. I am not going to show you any pictures because just about everything I did was too dangerous to depict here.(trying to protect the young people folks) I also drilled, and counter drilled the holes.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1177.jpg
It gets shinnier later.

I use my nifty string-through, hole jig to make the string-through holes. I thought I took pictures of this process, but apparently I didn't. Here is what I do. I mark the two outside holes. Then take the drill bit in my hand and make a little counter sink mark. Then I take two 1/8" drill bits and run them through the two outside holes on my jig and line it up on the body with the two marks. I am then able to take another 1/8" bit and drill the four middle holes. Move the bits around and drill the two outside holes. The key to getting these straight is to only go in short depths and clean the the hole and drill bit of debris.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1168.jpg
Nice and straight, score!!!
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1151.jpg

I can use this same jig to one big string ferrule block out of guess what, 1/4" brass.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1164.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1165.jpg

I use the same procedure as the string through holes. After drilling the holes, I grind and polish the string ferrule block like the neck plate.

Of course, we can't let that just sit on the back of the guitar. I am going to have to mark it and countersink...
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1169.jpg
Notice those cheap 1/8" bits that I broke. They still have a purpose.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1171.jpg
This is what it looks like in the end.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1178.jpg

Then it's time to install the nut. First I need to get all that extra material off there.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1184.jpg
Then cut a rough brass piece, and mark it with a pencil to rough shape.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1187.jpg
Then I just need to take it over to the grinder and clean it up and buff it.
Well, damn, damn, and double damn. I broke the switch off my grinder/buffer. Stupid cheap Harbor Freight tools. I guess it's Friday the 13th luck. Crap!!!
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1186.jpg
I guess I won't be doing anymore buffing on this project.
I had to dig out my spare grinder, a black and decker thats been laying underneath my joiner since the Clinton Adminstration. I use to use it back in my knife building day, but I put it away after I accidently set the buffing wheel on fire.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1190.jpg

One thing I would like to mention. When you are grinding and polishing brass with holes in it. You won't to avoid holding it over the holes. As the brass gets warmer, the little air molecules get excited in the holes an super heat. You will burn yourself from the air inside the holes and not the brass, go figure. But that is not to say the brass doesn't get hot, because it does. So be careful where you toss it when it gets hot. Take for example...
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1192.jpg

Man, that's really impressive. You know how to get a lot done with the tools you have. I like every bit of it.

I made my neck a little thicker than average for a few reasons, but mostly because it was going to be a baritone. Because of this, I am going to have to elevate my bridge to get the strings to clear the fretboard. So I will just make that little guy out of some Uke sides I planed down a while back, but never got around to making.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1198.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1200.jpg
I actually used to the belt portion of the sander, but I am getting tired of dragging the camera out every two minutes.
That should do nicely.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1202.jpg

Man, that's really impressive. You know how to get a lot done with the tools you have. I like every bit of it.

Thanks Ricky, but I am really just making this $#!+ up as I go along. I purchase a steel building a few days ago, and as soon as I can pour concrete and get that sucker up I will have 24'x28' of working space. I will be able to setup some dedicated work stations for guitar building. Hopefully the quality of my work will improve then. Until then, I will continue to work in my well house shed (12'x6' {the well takes up 4'x'4}).

One thing about living on a farm, you always have a friend close by. I miss the companionship when I am away at school.http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1141.jpg

Now I need to fix up myself a nut.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1206.jpg
To get a rough cut, I use my nifty Harbor Freight file set I bought on sale.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1207.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1209.jpg
Then with a little help with my Wypo cutting torch cleaners, I can file the nut sluts down just right.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1210.jpg

I can judge size file I need contrasting them to the Baritone strings I bought.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1211.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1212.jpg
It all turned out well in the end.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1214.jpg
Then install the tuners.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1215.jpg

Well my GFS tuner bushing twisted off. Crap!
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1216.jpg
I had to rob a bushing off one of my goto sets I have on my acousticaster.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1217.jpg
My grandpa gave me one these egg beater hand drills. It works great for pilot holes. Much easier to control than a hand drill.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1219.jpg

As a side note: I should learn to be more deligent in picking up my old strings.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1221.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1222.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1223.jpg

Ouch! I've poked plenty of knuckles with string ends, but never a foot!

You got some cool tools from your grandpa!

At this point I'm guessing that dayglow paint will have about an hour to dry!

Ouch! I've poked plenty of knuckles with string ends, but never a foot!

You got some cool tools from your grandpa!

At this point I'm guessing that dayglow paint will have about an hour to dry!

At this point, my fingers might be day-glo when Im playing it for the final post video.

The guitar now has orange on it, and I got a surprise for the headstock, control plate, and pickguard( PG may be optional). The flourescent orange is killer because the grain and knots are showing through, making it very, very pretty.

Man ,you made up a lot of ground here the last day or so.

Uploading final build pictures now.

Here y'll go...
Low B baritone string won't fit through the tuning peg. I had to modify it using a needle file in my grand pa's egg beater.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1224.jpg
Making sure the neck is aligned.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1225.jpg
Strings...
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1227.jpg

Sorry guys, no painting photos. My camera isn’t going anywhere near me while I am painting. Sorry, it’s a 350$ camera and less than 100$s worth of guitar parts.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1229.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1231.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1232.jpg

More Orange pictures and the headstock…
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1234.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1235.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1236.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1238.jpg

More pictures...
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1239.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1241.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1243.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1244.jpg

Back of the peg head...
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1245.jpg

Total cost of my build...
84.00$

In addition I used one coat of tru oil, and what was left of a 1/4 can of DEFT Nitro. A new bottle of Tro-oil is 4.95$ and Deft is 4.88$. So... I think I came in under budget.

The string tree is a dry wall screw that I filed notches into.

And the blowout non-GFS branded tele pickups kinda suck. Their pole spacing is a lttle off, and magnets fell off the back and broke. However, they do work, so I have a working fretless baritone guitar. I will post sound clips whenever I figure out how to play it.

The knobs by the way.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1247.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1249.jpg

How's this for cutting it close on the deadline?

You've still got an hour. Is that enough time to add frets?

Seriously - nice job on that thing. I liked your fret board radius sanding block idea... might have to steal it and make my own.

I am probably going to keep this neck and fret it. Probably make the body a clock or something. But who knows, I might figure out how to play it and keep it just like it is.

More Orange pictures and the headstock…

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/100_1238.jpg


I love the frettless man thats fantastic!

Thanks Martino, I just wish mine turned out as pretty as your build.

There are a lot of things that you can procrastinate on, but building a guitar is not one of them. No more deadline builds for me!

Total cost of my build... 84.00$

In addition I used one coat of tru oil, and what was left of a 1/4 can of DEFT Nitro. A new bottle of Tro-oil is 4.95$ and Deft is 4.88$. So... I think I came in under budget.

Please, how 'bout an itemized parts list and cost list? :neutral:

Neck – Free – Step from Zeb’s barn and maple my cousin cut for me
Truss bar – steel angle – 3.97$
Nut – Free – ¼” brass sheet a buddy gave me in highschool
Tuning keys – 21.95$
String tree – Free – Old dry wall screw
Neck Plate – Free – same brass and old dry wall screws.
Body – 2”x8”x8’ – 5.24$
Pickups – GFS bargain bin blow out non branded pups – 21.95$
Bridge – GFS hard tail strat bridge – 10.95$
Control plate, Bridge seat, Input jack – Free – Maple my cousin sawed for me a long time ago.
Cap - .975$
Pots, control switch, input jack – left over GFS stuff I had laying around – 10$(assigned value)
Knobs – Free- Scrap poplar
String ferrule block – Free – same brass.
Strings – 2 packs for 11$ - so 5.50$.
Two cans of orange spray paint ( only used one) 4.48$ a can.
One coat of tru oil – 4.95 for a can.
Part of a can of Deft – 4.88$( for a whole can)
Epoxy - I had this laying around, but new is 3.95$
Total = 93.6$0

I changed this back to Completed because Colt informs me it was supposed to be fretless. Sorry for the mistake.