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Can I use Tru-oil over Stewmac colortone stain?

scubadoo
September 12th, 2008, 08:02 AM
Hi,

I have an unfinshed Allparts Maple neck with Rosewood fingerboard.

I want to stain the maple with the Stewmac amber stain to match the body I've made.

Is it ok to put Tru-oil over this stain? Presumably i don't put it on the rosewood board but use lemon oil instead?

Also, I want to spray nitro on the headstock and apply a logo. Should i do the tru-oil first or the lacquer?

Cheers
Dave

sugarinthegourd
September 12th, 2008, 08:25 AM
Take a look at this Guitar ReRanch post. This is what I'm planning to do with my Partscaster neck:

http://www.reranch.com/reranch/viewtopic.php?t=15094

There are also some discussions over there about lacquer on the peghead, decals, etc. I think you will want to do the Tru-Oil before the lacquer.

brunning
September 12th, 2008, 08:48 AM
dave, this is the best finish for a neck!

you'l want to 'whisker' the wood before staining:

wipe the neck with a damp rag, and let it dry.
bits of loser grain will be raised - sand it off with 400 grit paper
repeat a couple of times.

this will make for a nice, even staining.

experiment with your stain color on a piece of scrap maple, dilute the stain more with water for a lighter color. once you've got your stain color down, wipe it onto the neck with a rag.

let it dry, check out the color and do another coat if necessary.

then you do the tru-oil. usually 5-7 coats are necessary with light sanding or 0000 steel wooling every couple coats. some people do it with bare hands, i use rubber gloves because i've found it sticks in my skin and coats fingernails and takes days to wash off fully. not pleasant!

let the oil cure for a couple of days, then give it a final steel wool polish, and you'll have a nice, hard finish on your neck.

now prepare for the decal by applying a couple of light lacquer coats to the face of the headstock.

let the lacquer cure about a week, then wet sand and polish it up and you're ready to apply the decal.

then you can do 5 or 6 coats of lacquer on the entire neck, let it cure a few weeks, then wet sand and polish it up!

sugarinthegourd
September 12th, 2008, 08:53 AM
So you lacquer over the Tru-Oil on the entire neck? I was planning to use Tru-Oil as the only finish. I really like the way it feels...

boris bubbanov
September 12th, 2008, 08:57 AM
I have an unfinshed Allparts Maple neck with Rosewood fingerboard.




Maybe someone can back me up on this, but the Allparts neck, unlike the USA Custom Guitar or Warmoth necks, has a layer of sealer already on it; that's gonna make staining the wood difficult. Add to that the fact that maple resists conventional stains (aniline dye on unsealed maple looks great) and you've still got some investigations to complete, IINM.

Musickraft has a sealer also.

scubadoo
September 12th, 2008, 09:20 AM
Maybe someone can back me up on this, but the Allparts neck, unlike the USA Custom Guitar or Warmoth necks, has a layer of sealer already on it; that's gonna make staining the wood difficult. Add to that the fact that maple resists conventional stains (aniline dye on unsealed maple looks great) and you've still got some investigations to complete, IINM.

Musickraft has a sealer also.

The stain was trickier than on the maple body-cap but I thought I remembered a thread where people had stained an Allparts neck with no problem. I've wirewooled it and it looks ok i think.

scubadoo
September 12th, 2008, 09:22 AM
dave, this is the best finish for a neck!

you'l want to 'whisker' the wood before staining:

wipe the neck with a damp rag, and let it dry.
bits of loser grain will be raised - sand it off with 400 grit paper
repeat a couple of times.

this will make for a nice, even staining.

experiment with your stain color on a piece of scrap maple, dilute the stain more with water for a lighter color. once you've got your stain color down, wipe it onto the neck with a rag.

let it dry, check out the color and do another coat if necessary.

then you do the tru-oil. usually 5-7 coats are necessary with light sanding or 0000 steel wooling every couple coats. some people do it with bare hands, i use rubber gloves because i've found it sticks in my skin and coats fingernails and takes days to wash off fully. not pleasant!

let the oil cure for a couple of days, then give it a final steel wool polish, and you'll have a nice, hard finish on your neck.

now prepare for the decal by applying a couple of light lacquer coats to the face of the headstock.

let the lacquer cure about a week, then wet sand and polish it up and you're ready to apply the decal.

then you can do 5 or 6 coats of lacquer on the entire neck, let it cure a few weeks, then wet sand and polish it up!

Thanks. But now I'm confused, I wasn't planning to put any tru-oil on the headstock face, just nitro. wouldn't it be a bad idea to nitro over tru-oil? And if you nitro the whole neck what is the point of using Tru-oil?

brunning
September 12th, 2008, 11:02 AM
Thanks. But now I'm confused, I wasn't planning to put any tru-oil on the headstock face, just nitro. wouldn't it be a bad idea to nitro over tru-oil? And if you nitro the whole neck what is the point of using Tru-oil?

the oil isn't necessary if you're using lacquer over the stain. it's a matter of what you prefer.

the oil gives a nice visual effect, kind of emphasizing the grain of the wood a little more and adding depth. it creates a nice, hard finish that ages nicely.

lacquer will provide a harder surface, it can be buffed up to a shine and it will protect the decal. it can also be aged by relic process or time to show that nice checked, cracked patina.

the combination of the two is very nice - you get deep grain, a nice shine, and protection for your decal.

just don't put oil over stain, or oil over decals.

re: sealed necks, stain has to be applied to totally bare wood. i don't know about warmoth necks, but Musickraft necks are available with no finish and no sealer at all. just bare wood.

scubadoo
September 12th, 2008, 02:44 PM
just don't put oil over stain.

why not? i thought that was fine and the luthier supplier that i bought it from said it would be ok? Also, I'm sure that Martyb1 finished a neck by mixing stain with the oil.

Home Grown Tele
September 12th, 2008, 03:02 PM
Here are a couple of necks I've done with Stew Mac Colortone Vintage Amber dye with water and Tru-Oil.

I didn't shoot any lacquer over decal on the headstock. But you can do that if you want to bury the decal, you just need to taper it off on the back of the headstock or the edges to prevent having to do the rest of the neck.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m1/Ankhafnakhonsu/ReRanchOrangeEsquire25.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m1/Ankhafnakhonsu/Baricaster4.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m1/Ankhafnakhonsu/LonePine4.jpg

You may want to touch base with Rich Rice about the fretboard on the AllParts necks. I know he had said in the past he had some issues with dyeing the fretboard and had scraped it down to get the dye to work properly.

Good luck and Tru-Oil over dye is fine. You won't be sorry you did this type of finish. It's feels like velvet after it breaks in!!

jkingma
September 12th, 2008, 04:21 PM
Originally Posted by brunning
just don't put oil over stain,

Why not?? I do it all them time. No problems. No issues.

brunning
September 12th, 2008, 09:40 PM
Why not?? I do it all them time. No problems. No issues.

sorry... brain fart! i meant to type "don't put oil over lacquer"

sean79
September 12th, 2008, 10:31 PM
scubadoo. I've done a stained neck with tru-oil and a nitro headstock face. I used a different stain (probably a minwax product), but the tru-oil went on just fine.

freewater2000
September 12th, 2008, 10:39 PM
I have a tmo-fat Allparts neck from Guitar-Parts Resource and it seems to be very naked no sealer here.

scubadoo
September 13th, 2008, 05:12 AM
Thanks guys. So I'm going to oil over the stain everywhere except the headstock and then nitro the headstock.

psychotelepathic
September 13th, 2008, 08:49 AM
dave, this is the best finish for a neck!

you'l want to 'whisker' the wood before staining:

wipe the neck with a damp rag, and let it dry.
bits of loser grain will be raised - sand it off with 400 grit paper
repeat a couple of times.

this will make for a nice, even staining.

experiment with your stain color on a piece of scrap maple, dilute the stain more with water for a lighter color. once you've got your stain color down, wipe it onto the neck with a rag.

let it dry, check out the color and do another coat if necessary.

then you do the tru-oil. usually 5-7 coats are necessary with light sanding or 0000 steel wooling every couple coats. some people do it with bare hands, i use rubber gloves because i've found it sticks in my skin and coats fingernails and takes days to wash off fully. not pleasant!

let the oil cure for a couple of days, then give it a final steel wool polish, and you'll have a nice, hard finish on your neck.

now prepare for the decal by applying a couple of light lacquer coats to the face of the headstock.

let the lacquer cure about a week, then wet sand and polish it up and you're ready to apply the decal.

then you can do 5 or 6 coats of lacquer on the entire neck, let it cure a few weeks, then wet sand and polish it up!

+1 on the rubber gloves. That stuff is like tar when it starts to dry on your hands.