Glendale Style Bridge for Less $?

Anyone know where I could find a Glendale style bridge for a 2002 American Std. Telecaster for less $?

I'm blown away by how expensive they are: $99!!

When I've seen std. vintage bridges for $10-50.

http://www.glendaleguitars.com/americanstandard.htm

Anyone?

I'll put Glendale saddles on any Tele I own, but IMHO - Fender's $8 vintage bridge is the best.



Edited: Sorry - saw that this was about an Am Series Tele. My bad.

Only Glendale and Callaham do an elongated plate with 3 barrel saddles that screws right into place on an Am Se/Std Tele body.

But you could do this, and use the $ 9 Fender stamped plate if you prefer:

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t25/Bubbanov/44NOV292007014.jpg


I can't offer you a sonic comparison. I really like Glendale and Callaham products, but I really do not like the looks of an elongated plate on any Tele, and I can't compare what I don't own. This is an alder bodied 2006 Am Se with relocated bridge mount holes in the body. I like it, I've done 3.

I can't offer you a sonic comparison.


Let's not forget which one is supposed to be sounding like which one. :mrgreen:

I won't say I'll never buy a $99.00 plate or $60.00 for saddles, only because I used to say I'd never pay $80.00 for a pickup. :oops:

I'll put Glendale saddles on any Tele I own, but IMHO - Fender's $8 vintage bridge is the best.



Edited: Sorry - saw that this was about an Am Series Tele. My bad.

Ahem...would one have a link or location where one might procure for himself one of these Fender $8 vintage bridge's you speak of....perhaps?

$8.99 at MF (http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Fender-Vintage-Tele-Bridge-Plate?sku=361323)..when they have them in stock.

I won't say I'll never buy a $99.00 plate or $60.00 for saddles.

Maybe you won't but I will.

Bubbanov .......... is there a reason why the new string holes in the bridge don't align with the original string holes. Looks like narrower string spacing.

$8.99 at MF (http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Fender-Vintage-Tele-Bridge-Plate?sku=361323)..when they have them in stock.

That won't fit his guitar without re drilling body and bridge...

Both Callaham and Glendale products are worth every penny IMO.

Have you tried the Joe Barden Bridge? They come with compensated brass saddles, shaved treble side, usually sell for about $65 although I got mine new on ebay for $45.

I've read very good things about them, I had one but sold it without installing it so all I know about them is they are thick and LOOK like a quality piece.

Barden Bridge (http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/gbridge_afttelejoebarden.htm)

edited to add:

Sorry - American Standard, some day I'll learn to read.

Maybe you won't but I will.

Bubbanov .......... is there a reason why the new string holes in the bridge don't align with the original string holes. Looks like narrower string spacing.


It sure is. The vintage 'ashtray' style string holes are 2 + 7/64ths more or less, the Am Se string holes 2 + 3/64ths, more or less, measured on center of the two outside holes. I'm also having to move the holes forward about an eighth as well to match the existing down holes in the Am Se body. I'm willing to preserve the narrower spacing because, so far, the saddles still seem to work as long as the height screws are not those big stock Fender AV jobbers, plus, the new holes are treacherously close to the old ones and any additional space when hand drilling the new down holes next to the old ones is most appreciated. The picture is # 2; on the third one I did, I went down from a 1/8th drill bit to a 3/32nds twist bit, I think.

Both Callaham and Glendale products are worth every penny IMO.

BritishBluesBoy I like the cut of your jib. Some of us have to keep these guys in business or all that will be left is the made in China pot-tin stuff. :smile:


Have you tried the Joe Barden Bridge?

Well made, well finished, intonates perfectly, lines up with Musikraft string through holes much better than USACG string through holes.
The thickness and shininess some people find a bit cheap, others find these traits desireable.

I think in the interest of full disclosure, Glendale should post straight on photographs showing how his elongated bridge actually looks on a Telecaster. He only shows photographs of the bridges taken from acute angles like this.........

......http://www.glendaleguitars.com/American.jpg

Well, here is a picture of the mounted Callaham if you have any interest. It's fine piece but it's thick as described. I'll not use the term too good but it really is too much with the Budz pickups I have. I'm thinking of getting the Glendale and chosing the one that works best with this guitar.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p23/oldcane/Tele/DA026.jpg

That won't fit his guitar without re drilling body and bridge...

Agreed, but the question I was responding to was "Ahem...would one have a link or location where one might procure for himself one of these Fender $8 vintage bridge's you speak of....perhaps?" and that bridge at MF is the vintage bridge plate (and not the AmStd one). :roll:

Agreed, but the question I was responding to was "Ahem...would one have a link or location where one might procure for himself one of these Fender $8 vintage bridge's you speak of....perhaps?" and that bridge at MF is the vintage bridge plate (and not the AmStd one). :roll:

Oops... I see... My mistake...

I will say that I spent that money on a bridge plate and saddles from Glendale 2 years ago and it was by far the best upgrade I ever did on my Am. Std... I've very recently swapped the body out for a vintage routed/drilled one and bought an $8 bridge (sorry Nigel). I just sold my Glendale bridge and saddles on this forum's classifieds. Now, my only regret is that I'm not particularly happy with the StewMac compensated saddles, so I've just ordered another Twang set from Glendale.

forgive my ignorance but why is the extended bridge more desireable?

forgive my ignorance but why is the extended bridge more desireable?

It's desirable because it fits the American Standard/Series guitars without having to drill holes. The American Standard/Series guitars have a different bridge design that puts the mounting screws behind the string-through holes. To achieve this, they made the bridge longer, or extended. While it doesn't have the nostalgic look of a vintage ashtray bridge, it is a huge improvement, because there is no chance that the saddle height screws will ride up on the bridge mounting screws if you have to move the saddle way back to get the intonation right.

forgive my ignorance but why is the extended bridge more desireable?


It isn't more desirable, it is less desirable. It is just that, without doing one of my complicated mod jobs, he's kinda stuck with it, given the model of his Tele.

As for the mount hardware getting in the way, IF your guitar seems to want to intonate in such a way that the height or saddle grub screws want to fall on the mount hardware, use beveled flat faced mount hardware, and if that isn't enough, use the vintage style Callaham or Glendale saddles' theirs are aimed so they don't hit those screw tops.

I can't blame Dale for not wanting to show straight on pictures, or Callaham either, because the elongated plate, factory or aftermarket is not that likely to remind a player of the halcyon days, but instead the "Stratification" of the Telecaster.

Leo never used such a plate at G + L for perhaps many reasons, but one had to be it would not please his eye.

YMMV and all that.

Most people I see around here use the old (vintage) 3 saddle bride. How about these, what's the deal with them: 6 saddle bridge (http://store.guitarfetish.com/6savitebr.html)

I know that type came out a long time ago, since I've seen it on older Teles, as well. I don't like the new ones, very much, the ones that aren't round. The earth is round, isn't it? http://user.tninet.se/~tbe308v/mine/cool.gif

wow. never even noticed the different saddle lengths. wow...... im lame!

worth every penny, IMHO. Brought this Am. Std. some new life--i did it as a cosmetic mod-but it had as much difference on tone as a new pickup. really.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t222/beaumontmusic/ashy2.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t222/beaumontmusic/withnewbridge3.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t222/beaumontmusic/scan0001.jpg

truth is, most people, outside of well, us, would never notice it's any longer.

Most people I see around here use the old (vintage) 3 saddle bride. How about these, what's the deal with them:



That's a copy from overseas. The Fender version looks like this:

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t25/Bubbanov/P5220104.jpg

They're awful. Very happy to take every one of 5 I've had off and replace them with the 3 brass barrel plate and saddles.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t25/Bubbanov/P5220105.jpg

the G + L version is so beautifully made, but to be blunt, it is the one part of the guitar that bugs me. I took it off once, put it back, but it must go.

Okej, I guess I have to find myself a Fender Pat. plate and 3 nice saddles to replace the old one then. Are the good ones all in brass or might they be available in chrome/steel too?

Sure. You can get steel. Or Aluminum and brass or all brass or.....

RS
Budz
Glendale
Callaham

And lots of others if you have the vintage style bridge. The plate can be had under $10. It's what i do. The Barden is usually around $50 on ebay and is all you need in one package but all of these combos have been good for me.

worth every penny, IMHO. Brought this Am. Std. some new life--i did it as a cosmetic mod-but it had as much difference on tone as a new pickup. really.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t222/beaumontmusic/ashy2.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t222/beaumontmusic/withnewbridge3.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t222/beaumontmusic/scan0001.jpg

truth is, most people, outside of well, us, would never notice it's any longer.

That's really sweet. I'm thinking I could put one of those on my Highway One to take care of the saddle screw/mounting screw interference problem. I'd have to drill new holes to mount the bridge, but it would hide the old holes... Of course the problem with that plan is that I could buy another guitar for what the Gendale bridge costs...

That's really sweet. I'm thinking I could put one of those on my Highway One to take care of the saddle screw/mounting screw interference problem. I'd have to drill new holes to mount the bridge, but it would hide the old holes... Of course the problem with that plan is that I could buy another guitar for what the Gendale bridge costs...


Have you tried simply replacing the saddles you have with some Glendales or Callahams?

I've got 3 Highway One bridge plates in my fleet, I've replaced all 3 sets of stock saddles with various types of 3 brass barrel saddles, and they all work extremely well. Are you using some extremely unusual string set, like 9-54 or something? Otherwise I can't see how you can't cure the problem with flat topped screws and high end saddles.

Have you tried simply replacing the saddles you have with some Glendales or Callahams?

I've got 3 Highway One bridge plates in my fleet, I've replaced all 3 sets of stock saddles with various types of 3 brass barrel saddles, and they all work extremely well. Are you using some extremely unusual string set, like 9-54 or something? Otherwise I can't see how you can't cure the problem with flat topped screws and high end saddles.

I just put Glendale Intone saddles on it. The slanted ones. The ones with the saddle mounting screws that are supposed to clear the bridge mounting screws. The saddle adjusting screw nearest the big E string sits on the bridge mounting screw, and wants to make the saddle shift to the right. I've filed the oval head bridge mounting screw to make it sort of work, but I don't like having to hack something like that on an expensive (to me) guitar. I can see doing it on a $100 guitar, but not this one. I'm using 10-46 strings. The intonation is very good with these saddles. I suppose something like the Callaham enhanced compensated saddles would work better. I had a set of the Wilkinson "faceted" compensated saddles on it, but they were compensated too much. I'm tired of throwing money at this problem, so I'll probably live with the Glendales.

This is like deja-vu all over again!

P.S. Boris, what is your avatar? I've been wondering...

Second time today I've posted this comment, but Glendale's stuff is worth every penny and Dale is one of the nicest guys I've ever done business with.

Well, here is a picture of the mounted Callaham if you have any interest. It's fine piece but it's thick as described. I'll not use the term too good but it really is too much with the Budz pickups I have. I'm thinking of getting the Glendale and chosing the one that works best with this guitar.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p23/oldcane/Tele/DA026.jpg

Whoah there!! Is that what I'm looking for?

I've got an MIM standard Tele and I was looking to upgrade to a 3-saddle bridge but I HATE the "lip" (for lack of a better term)around the edges of the plate. I seem to have trouble connecting with the strings in the right places when I've played on the standard ones.

Is that a Callahan with the flush plate?

I LOVE my glendale bridge and saddles!

No. That's a Callaham for an American. You MIM should take anything BUT this one. Glendale makes one with the sides cut off. I just don't get it, though. I'm not sure how I'd have to play to have a standard (normal, vintage, whatever you kids call it) bridge bother me. I rest the palm of my hand on the top rear corner and just play. I've never had anything feel like it was in the way but I guess we all do things differently. I'm still wondering how those guys wear the finish off up above the pickguard.

The Callaham is thick, 50% thicker than normal (and again by normal I mean the way things were for years and years until somebody decided to "improve" things). My saddles are barely raised above the plate. He makes no bones about it and wants it this way. It really makes things sit up and bark at you. I like it ok but when he said "satin" finish I wasn't real keen but when I got it it looks awful. Sandblasted would be a better description. I'm going back to the stock pickups on this one because a) I want the Budz for another build and 2) it's just too piercing a sound wiht both. It's not thin at all. I wouldn't say shrill. Piercing is the best I can come up with. I can fix that on the amp but then when I plug in anther guitar I have to adjust it some. No big deal I just like to tinker as little as I can.

No offense against vintage bridges, etc. I think they look really great...I broke a string at a show recently and decided to use my buddies Tele instead of changing the string. I've got a modern bridge and he's got some kind of vintage 3-saddle and in the heat of "battle" I was having a hard time hitting the low E-string near the bridge like I normally would. If I'd played one much before that it would probably be fine but who knows.

Does anyone look down on the bridge-plates without the "ashtray lip"?

I tend to play standing up so yes, I always look down at them. However, sometimes the last set I am looking at them from the side, bottom or sometimes seeing two of them.


Oooops. Almost forgot........:mrgreen:

I know the feeling friend!

Now why do YOU have a "sideless vintage-ish bridge-plate"???

Have you been drinking too? You don't see the sides?

This is an American Series. This is what they come with. Well, not the Callaham, but they come with the sideless, motherless plate. I think I may sell this and get the Glendale since it has sides. At the time I go this I didn't know about the Glendale. But the GD is quite a bit more money once you add saddles. I now have an extra set of saddles so it'll be about a wash. And no, I don't like the feel of this. I kind of like the side to rest the heel of my palm on. I feel this is an abomination of an American icon but my wife wound up buying this for me for about $200 so I don't mind. I've spent much more for abominations in my life.

I guess I'll mess around with a standard one again and see if I'm smart enough to get used to it. Thanks!!

We all like different stuff. You sure don't have to like 'em. Glendale makes a 4 screw that's cut almost all of the way off top and bottom. That might be just the thing you could use.