Guitarfetish.com has steel blocks for your MIM and import trems

Was just looking on the guitarfetish.com website and under tremolo's you can order a full size steel block for your MIM and Asian import strats! Jay says the blocks trem arm are sized for the Fender standard trems so you must purchase a new trem arm too.

I've ordered mine, UPS says it will be here Monday!!

http://store.guitarfetish.com/sosttrblfima.html

**One thing I just thought of. By looking at the picture, the block looks a little "longer" than the small zinc sized one that come on the Squire Affinity and Bullets. I'm not sure if the block will fit the smaller thickness of the guitar or not. If anyone knows, pass the info along here.**

Thanks,

Jeremy

Waiting for the "Brown Truck" as I type

Hi, I'm a newbie here. First post/reply. I suspect you will either have to leave the back cover off or shave about 3/16 off the block. I was offered a standard block trem and after some measurments that was my determination. It looked like that would have left enough depth for Fender bullet or ball ends. Turned it down as the screw holes didn't match either. It's a project guitar but not quite that involved. Good luck with that.

I have been considering upgrading my (MIM) Standard Strat trem for some time. I recently blocked it for tuning stability (I go back and forth from standard to open G a lot, and I don't use the whammy). Will an upgrade make any difference now (with it blocked)?

**One thing I just thought of. By looking at the picture, the block looks a little "longer" than the small zinc sized one that come on the Squire Affinity and Bullets. I'm not sure if the block will fit the smaller thickness of the guitar or not. If anyone knows, pass the info along here.**

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Mine came yesterday and I tried it in an Affinity. It protrudes about 1/8". :cry:

Was just looking on the guitarfetish.com website and under tremolo's you can order a full size steel block for your MIM and Asian import strats! Jay says the blocks trem arm are sized for the Fender standard trems so you must purchase a new trem arm too.

I've ordered mine, UPS says it will be here Monday!!

http://store.guitarfetish.com/sosttrblfima.html

**One thing I just thought of. By looking at the picture, the block looks a little "longer" than the small zinc sized one that come on the Squire Affinity and Bullets. I'm not sure if the block will fit the smaller thickness of the guitar or not. If anyone knows, pass the info along here.**

Thanks,

Jeremy

The block will go bast the body in the rear of affinity's, as they are thinner bodied.

**One thing I just thought of. By looking at the picture, the block looks a little "longer" than the small zinc sized one that come on the Squire Affinity and Bullets. I'm not sure if the block will fit the smaller thickness of the guitar or not. If anyone knows, pass the info along here.**

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Mine came yesterday and I tried it in an Affinity. It protrudes about 1/8". :cry:

Good Grief! Now I will have to buy a MIM body from the classified or ebay. I also have a SX from Rondo music that is full thickness, but I don't like the neck and the neck pocket is too big for a Mighty Mite replacement neck.

Jeremy

The block will go bast the body in the rear of affinity's, as they are thinner bodied.

Shim your neck to tilt it back and raise the bridge up off the body.
You can also block it in the cavity to only dive so it won't go out of tune if you break a string. But that is a different thread. ;)

I see they also sell a block for MIA Strats.

Any point in replacing the stock block?

I see they also sell a block for MIA Strats.

Any point in replacing the stock block?

I don't know about it on the MIA strats.

I would rather not buy a new body. Anyone know how to trim off the 1/8th inch "overhang"? All I have access to is a wheel grinder.

Jeremy

I have 2 Squier Strats.

Vintage Vibe 50s and a Deluxe.

The block fits neither as the hole for the trem bar is off center from the trem bar hole on the bridge plate. :mad:

It is a very nice block, just doesn't fit what I want it to fit!

I got a friend who has a Mexican Strat and I'll probably put it on his when I change his pickups out for him in August.
Looking at the way it's layed out, it'll probably be a perfect fit.
I would imagine that it would fit the CIJs and MIJs pretty well also.

But for me, no go!
Now, if I could just find a bridge plate that matches...:roll:

I didn't even notice the 1st paragraph said it only fits 1/2 of the MIMs. Argh.

Would it be possible for one of you guys to do some measurements?

I don't know about it on the MIA strats.

I would rather not buy a new body. Anyone know how to trim off the 1/8th inch "overhang"? All I have access to is a wheel grinder.

Jeremy
Solid steel is tough, man, you can try it, but the grinder might need a new cover...

Just take it to a local machine shop and have them remove the material . It will not cost much and it will look good to boot.

Just take it to a local machine shop and have them remove the material . It will not cost much and it will look good to boot.

+1.
Auto mechanic could work too.

I didn't even notice the 1st paragraph said it only fits 1/2 of the MIMs. Argh.

Would it be possible for one of you guys to do some measurements?


It wasn't noticed because it was added to the original.

Just take it to a local machine shop and have them remove the material . It will not cost much and it will look good to boot.

We have a local fabrication shop in town. they have done some great jobs when I needed something made or welded. I think I will take some measurements, mark then have them use the band saw or whatever they use down there to cut the excess off the bottom of the block. Oh and I will have them enlarge or drill a new trem arm hole to line up with the one on the block. All of this will probably cost me $20.00. It seems everything at the fab shop is $20.00 to cut and weld.

Jeremy

Well I don't know how deep the holes are and how close the string ends are to the back edge of the block. My USA Fender Trem, well the block for example is such that if I used bullets or def-tone string the bullet end is flush with the back of the block. So the ends would just stick out if the block was machined shorter. I guess drilling them
a touch deeper would take care of that. But don't forget to get the machine shop to do it while it is there if you go that route.

Just set up the guitar as I said in my first post. It is simple, reversible, and would put the block inside the desired amount. KISS I say.

You may even have enough range to lower the saddles with out shimming the neck after you raise the bridge the 1/8" Use the "Ron Kirn" Tubing method if a 6 screw, or just raise the posts if of the 2 post ilk.

Playing with the action higher builds character anyway...:mrgreen:

Update on my post from last week......

I've been playing my Affinty with the "oversized" steel block for a couple of days and decided to leave it in without modifying the length. I really like the added sustain and zingy harmonics. I recommend finding a way to work around the 1/8 inch problem. I may end up modding the back cover to provide the clearance for the block while hiding the springs and claw. On the other hand, I don't notice the block's movement when I work the vibrato. Bottomline....whether I do the mod or not, that block is staying right there.

There were a couple of threads where Ronkirn showed the use of silicone spacers for the trem screws. He advocated this to help improve tuning stability. I know one of them was "The Dalmore" build thread (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/telecaster-discussion-forum/107497-dalmore-telecaster-ron-kirn-2.html).

You can also try searching for "silicone" or "silicone spacers"

Based on the instructions he gave there and in a couple of other spots, I'm pretty sure this would get you the 1/8" clearance. He said that length was about 3/16-1/4". Then you compress them by about 50% when screwing down the trem.

I recently made this change. but, I haven't had time to judge the results. It's really quick and easy to do. It only took me about 5 minutes and didn't bother taking off the strings. You can get the silicone tubing at a model shop. It's used for model airplane fuel line.

Just a suggestion...

I installed one of these on my MIM strat today. Sounds pretty nice...definite improvement over the crappy thin block I had in mine before. My bridge was actually one of the import trems that this block "doesn't" fit. It fits fine but the hole for the trem arm doesn't line up with the one on the bridge. I never use the trem anyway, I use 5 springs and that fixes the bridge in position pretty well.

I installed one of these on my MIM strat today. Sounds pretty nice...definite improvement over the crappy thin block I had in mine before. My bridge was actually one of the import trems that this block "doesn't" fit. It fits fine but the hole for the trem arm doesn't line up with the one on the bridge. I never use the trem anyway, I use 5 springs and that fixes the bridge in position pretty well.
What year is your MIM?

It was made in 1999

I sent GFS an e-mail asking about the block fit on the MIM - here's the response:

Just look at the trem top plate - If the hole for the arm sits just BEHIND the three screws that hold the plate to the block- it won't work- if it sits just IN FRONT of the three screws it will fit

I have a mid 90s MIM, and the hole for the arm sits behind the three screws.

I sent GFS an e-mail asking about the block fit on the MIM - here's the response:

Just look at the trem top plate - If the hole for the arm sits just BEHIND the three screws that hold the plate to the block- it won't work- if it sits just IN FRONT of the three screws it will fit

I have a mid 90s MIM, and the hole for the arm sits behind the three screws.

It will work but you will no longer be able to use your trem arm. See my post above.

It will work but you will no longer be able to use your trem arm. See my post above.

Yep, I saw your post. I was posting for the people who wanted to simply buy the block, and still use tremolo, of which I'm one. I'll have to buy the trem upgrade kit for this to work for me.

Since both our guitars are from the 90s, and neither arm hole fits, I wonder if it's a simple case of old vs new MIM?

I have 2 Squier Strats.

Vintage Vibe 50s and a Deluxe.

The block fits neither as the hole for the trem bar is off center from the trem bar hole on the bridge plate. :mad:

It is a very nice block, just doesn't fit what I want it to fit!

I got a friend who has a Mexican Strat and I'll probably put it on his when I change his pickups out for him in August.
Looking at the way it's layed out, it'll probably be a perfect fit.
I would imagine that it would fit the CIJs and MIJs pretty well also.

But for me, no go!
Now, if I could just find a bridge plate that matches...:roll:

Dauntless,

How far off was the hole (on the deluxe)? Could you see the hole through the existing trem arm hole in the bridge plate? Would it just be a matter of enlarging the hole in the bridge plate? If it's just a mm or so I might be willing to enlarge the hole in the bridge plate.

Pete

I actually just bought the whole trem. I was thinking about just buying the block, but the trem also comes with the rolled saddles and should all just drop in without any troubles.

I dropped an American sized GFS trem into my Squier Black and chrome. I had to re-drill the holes, but wow, what a difference. I also swapped the picups, nut and tuners. Basically, it is a totally different guitar... and I love it!

The MIM/asian sized one will go into my bullet. Nice! I also ordered a set of pickups, tuners and roller style string guides.

I received shipping confirmation today. Everything has been shipped. Looking forward to modding the bullet!

Bob

Will the gfs trem block drop into a '95 japanese foto-flame strat ???? I have one and it's awesome, but I would definately like more sustain .:mrgreen:

I actually just bought the whole trem. I was thinking about just buying the block, but the trem also comes with the rolled saddles and should all just drop in without any troubles.

I dropped an American sized GFS trem into my Squier Black and chrome. I had to re-drill the holes, but wow, what a difference. I also swapped the picups, nut and tuners. Basically, it is a totally different guitar... and I love it!

The MIM/asian sized one will go into my bullet. Nice! I also ordered a set of pickups, tuners and roller style string guides.

I received shipping confirmation today. Everything has been shipped. Looking forward to modding the bullet!

Bob

I'm considering buying a pair of these GFS steel blocks for my modded Bullet Strats too... :wink:

I'm considering buying a pair of these GFS steel blocks for my modded Bullet Strats too... :wink:

Add one of those USA strat or wilkinson tremolos too, they're a great improvement.

We have a local fabrication shop in town. they have done some great jobs when I needed something made or welded. I think I will take some measurements, mark then have them use the band saw or whatever they use down there to cut the excess off the bottom of the block. Oh and I will have them enlarge or drill a new trem arm hole to line up with the one on the block. All of this will probably cost me $20.00. It seems everything at the fab shop is $20.00 to cut and weld.

Jeremy

Interesting but for the guys who would have to mod it wouldn't it be cheaper & easier to just go ahead and order 1 of the full trem kits with the thicker block?

After reading this over and over again...as well as the other topics just like this among the other internet guitar forums...it seems nobody is very specific with their posts(or even in their inquiries to GFS).
I keep seeing, "this doesnt fit my MIM Strat"...I as well the rest of the world would like to know, exactly, which MIM strat do you have?

Ive got 2 MIM Strats, a '99 and a '00, both Standards and its still unclear if everything is gonna line up.

Has anybody bothered to ask GFS which SPECIFIC Strat trem this was designed for? Certainly there is somebody at GFS that designed this for his sole Strat.

Question.....does a beefier block improve the sound of the guitar even if you don't use the Tremolo bar. Like if you have it blocked ?

Question.....does a beefier block improve the sound of the guitar even if you don't use the Tremolo bar. Like if you have it blocked ?

Yes.
It will improve sustain and transfer of vibrations to the body whether used or not.
Same reason as angus young's SG having a tremolo, even though he NEVER uses it.

How do these compare to the Callaham blocks? I'd love a solid steel block to improve my Strat's sustain but I'm not sure I want to spend $165 on a new Callaham bridge.

will these GFS blocks fit my 2004 mim strat?

will these GFS blocks fit my 2004 mim strat?

I don't think so. I didn't try to fit it but from what GFS said it and the way it looked I didn't think it would fit. I have a 2003 (I think) MIM Standard and when you figure you need a new bar to fit the block, I decided I might as well buy the whole bridge and not have to worry about it. Still much cheaper than the Callaham. I changed the saddles out to keep the Fender stamp on them, kept the original claw, also moved the tip off the original bar since it is a relatively hard to find black. Sustain is incredibly better.

OK thanks. I think I'll just get the upgrade tremolo. I think Callaham is full of it. Why would one steel sound better than another steel.

How do these compare to the Callaham blocks? I'd love a solid steel block to improve my Strat's sustain but I'm not sure I want to spend $165 on a new Callaham bridge.


If you compare the bare block prices, the Callaham is only $ 60.00 ( $ 95 for G + L guitars with the D-F Vibrato ).

There's an astonishing difference for me between the sound of a Strat with a Callaham steel block versus a Fender Am Se steel block. Anyone's guess what grade of steel the GFS block is, how much lead, etc.

The Callaham block and arm are lifetime quality. Something else worth considering.

Callaham steel is BETTER than Guitarfetish steel? How and why?

Callaham steel is BETTER than Guitarfetish steel? How and why?

This is all supposition. I don't think anyone has published an analysis of the steel in any of these blocks although Callaham has made some claims about lead content. Lead is commonly used in steel that will be machined; I don't know that there exists an unbiased comparison of steel trem block performance correlated with lead content, not to mention controlling for other variables like anti-rust coating. What I can tell you is that the GFS tremolo has much better sustain than the original MIM tremolo. For all I know, the difference could be in the springs and bridge. My suspicion is that there might be an incremental difference between the GFS and the Callaham, and if Callaham wants to give me a block to test, I will be happy to do so (within the limits of my sad guitar playing). In the meantime, keeping with the cost effective nature of MIM Fenders in general, I think the GFS is an excellent upgrade. I mean, if cost were not a consideration, I probably would not have bought a MIM Standard (but I do like that guitar a lot).

I would also point out that the cost of the Callaham is NOT $60, if you plan to use the trem, because there is no way that you can use it after the upgrade without buying a new bar as well.

I'm considering getting one of those for my son's MIM strat, but his is one of the newer (2006) models with the large pot-metal block. The bridge saddle is in the way of my telling whether the bar sits in front of or behind the mounting screws. Anyone here know?

I'm considering getting one of those for my son's MIM strat, but his is one of the newer (2006) models with the large pot-metal block. The bridge saddle is in the way of my telling whether the bar sits in front of or behind the mounting screws. Anyone here know?

Yet another reason to go with Callaham--customer service. I've read Guitar Fetish's description and it's a pig in the poke as to whether or not the block will fit and allow you to use your original plate. Sure you might never use your trem, but what if you do and it doesn't fit? Then you're buying a plate and it's a hassle.

Moreover, the Guitar Fetish block requires that you purchase a "USA standard 10-32 thread trem arm" if you want to use the trem as a trem. He only sells them in white or black tips. Further, the Guitar Fetish site doesn't specify what kind of metal the arm is made of.

There's also the fact that I don't really trust a company which can't copy edit their site. I'm not a grammar fanatic, but it does speak to one's attention to detail. Callaham has a few copy editing issues, but on Guitar Fetish just about every page has a copy editing slip. Sure, not carefully copy editing might help keep prices down at Guitar Fetish, but I doubt it.

Yet another reason to go with Callaham--customer service. I've read Guitar Fetish's description and it's a pig in the poke as to whether or not the block will fit and allow you to use your original plate. Sure you might never use your trem, but what if you do and it doesn't fit? Then you're buying a plate and it's a hassle.

Before I bought mine I read the stuff on both sites; I would contend that they are both about equal in that regard. If the GFS block only fits about half the MIM guitars, it follows that the Callaham block fits about half (either the same half or the other half). They both give you a method for determining whether your guitar falls in their half- GFS by eyeballing the position of the trem bar hole, Callaham by guitar model. And don't assume that the Callaham method is foolproof- if you don't know the exact year and model of your guitar, the Callaham method may not work. Just buy the entire trem unless you don't use it, then just buy the block. My MIM only had 3 springs, so I needed the spring, plus ya gotta buy the bar (whick GFS claims is more rigid than the stock one anyway); just buy the entire trem.

Moreover, the Guitar Fetish block requires that you purchase a "USA standard 10-32 thread trem arm" if you want to use the trem as a trem. He only sells them in white or black tips. Further, the Guitar Fetish site doesn't specify what kind of metal the arm is made of.

Both Callaham and GFS require a USA standard trem bar. The only thing I infer from that is that maybe both of the blocks are made in US machine shops, but who knows? (Black tips? I musta missed that. I thought they only came in white, although in 3 metal finishes.)

There's also the fact that I don't really trust a company which can't copy edit their site. I'm not a grammar fanatic, but it does speak to one's attention to detail. Callaham has a few copy editing issues, but on Guitar Fetish just about every page has a copy editing slip. Sure, not carefully copy editing might help keep prices down at Guitar Fetish, but I doubt it.

I don't know, I think that a person can be very good at something but not necessarily at English grammar. GFS may, in fact, keep their prices down by not hiring an editor for their website, or, maybe Callaham or his web designer is good at it. I don't think it is really relevant.

If I was a person that thought nothing of spending $2000 for a guitar, I am sure that I would buy the Callaham trem block; probably would buy it even if the stock were not the piece of pot metal junk that many of the MIMs have. The question is whether if you spend $300-400 on your guitar, do you wanna spend another $70+ to upgrade the trem block? No doubt that the Callaham is an excellent product, but I think it's really out of line with the cost of a MIM Standard. I just don't think that the average MIM buyer is going to pay that much to get the very best when they can get almost as good for half the price.

i just got one for my 1990 MIJ fernandes LE1 strat
had to get new screws and dremel a few hairs off
will restring it tonight and let ya know if it was all worth it

Guitarfetish offers the complete upgrade tremolo for half the cost of the Callaham block and arm. I have 2 strats, I think I will try the GFS upgrade tremolo. If I like it, then I will get one for my USA made strat.

had them both
sent the callaham back cause it didnt line up exactly
the people at callaham were great to deal with. I wish it had fit but it seems silly to upgrade 2 a bridge with the wrong string spacing cause then your intonation will go all haywire and i was trying to improve the guitar i already liked

the blocks are both made of lead free steel
the GFS block sounds great but i still had to dremel just a few hairs off the fernandes plate
also i grinded off the finish on the block where it comes in contact with the plate (alah Eric johnson suggestion)
the fernandes is a steel plate vs the callaham which was an alloy plate (unless someone knows of a non-magnetic steel)
I must say the trouble i went thru was definitely worth it

my fernandes now has

steel plate (fernandes)
steel stamped saddles (fender)
steel block (GFS)
custom shop 54 pups (Fender)
EJ tone mod (wired to tone pot the bridge/middle)
2 piece 1962 style alder body
5 springs
I am very happy

has anyone installed the complete GFS upgrade tremolo in a mim standard strat?

has anyone installed the complete GFS upgrade tremolo in a mim standard strat?

If it makes any difference, I dropped the GFS MIM upgrade in a Vintage Modified Squier Strat with no screw/spacing problems whatsoever. Unplugged, the strings ring much more audibly, with more vibration transferred through the body wood. Plugged in, the guitar sounds much more defined, with a definite increase in sustain.

If you have one of the older MIMs with the thin block, I'd definitely pull the trigger on one.

Used both the Callaham and GFS on my two Squier strats (VM and CV 50's)
Callaham looked better, both lined up except for trem arm hole, but this is a non-issue as I am a 5-spring blocked player. Both sounded way better than the dinky stock block. at 20 bucks vs 60, the GFS wins out. I use Callaham saddles and swear by them, but a lump of steel is a lump of steel and I need the extra $$$ for strings, etc. Just my .02

has anyone installed the complete GFS upgrade tremolo in a mim standard strat?

Its annoying isnt it?
Nobody ever says which model they have...its always "Ive got a MIM strat..."
...this only aids in the confusion.

Ive got a MIM Standard as well, but have yet to see anybody post any kinda of specific info on weather itll fit or not ON A MIM STANDARD.

Yes, I know it will "fit" :roll: but to me "fitting" means the trem lining up as well.

Its annoying isnt it?
Nobody ever says which model they have...its always "Ive got a MIM strat..."
...this only aids in the confusion.

Ive got a MIM Standard as well, but have yet to see anybody post any kinda of specific info on weather itll fit or not ON A MIM STANDARD.

Yes, I know it will "fit" :roll: but to me "fitting" means the trem lining up as well.

I'm pretty sure I identified my guitar as a MIM Standard bought in 2003 and that I have not verified what year it actually is. I also thought it could be pretty easily inferred from what I posted that I had more or less installed (kept stock claw and saddles) the complete tremolo. The complete trem fit on my guitar without any mods to anything, except, it appears that it cannot be used to bend pitch up much without either dremeling away part of the block or a bit of the trem cavity on the back. I haven't really figured out what is going on because it is not that important to me that I have to do it immediately, but I think the stepped shaped of the stock block allows more freeplay for bending strings up.