T_red7882 July 1st, 2008, 10:25 PM Ok, so i am in the process of upgrading my MIM standard strat. After selecting pickups, my question of playability leads me to this: how do i use my trem and keep in tune? I like to use the trem a lot, yank it around srv style. My current situation is this: touch the trem, retune... touch the trem, retune... At least its consistent. In terms of what is most important to staying in tune, how would you order these:
machine heads
nut
# of springs in trem
bridge
sting size (only one person i talked to mentioned this)
is there anything else that can be done?
BritishBluesBoy July 1st, 2008, 10:29 PM Make sure you lube the slots in the nut.. Pencil lead works or you can get a product called 'nut sauce' I'm sure a bunch of other things would work just as well too. I'll bet your strings are getting caught up there and not returning back to where they were before you yanked on the trem...
TeleLubber July 1st, 2008, 10:54 PM 1) The bridge needs to return to pitch (obviously). If you have a vintage style strat tremelo that is floating off the face of the guitar so you can pull up as well as dive down.. first tune your guitar to pitch, make sure the two outer screws attaching the bridge to the guitar are screwed down to just kissing the surface of the bridge plate, and the middle four screw heads are about 1/16" from the surface... this will reduce the chances of the bridge binding when trying to return to pitch.. I also use at least 4 springs or a hipshot trem setter in some cases, but that's personal preference..
2) sometimes your nut slots need a (very little) little filing/widening .. and do so by cutting the slots so that there's a very very slight "V" shape with the wider end toward the headstock .. this reduces friction from the string travel with the nut slot... also a mixture of vaseline and graphite has been employed but I find this messy.. I have used a sharp pencil lead in my slots before which has helped
3) you could try locking tuners, but if you follow the steps above I doubt you'll need them so long as you're winding your strings properly..
4) string size shouldn't matter -- it's all about the friction,
5) and I also "pre-strech" my strings before attempting to tune up when they're new, by gently pulling up on the strings and running my fingers along the length so they "settle" in..
Hope that helps
Flat357 July 1st, 2008, 11:04 PM Ok, so i am in the process of upgrading my MIM standard strat. After selecting pickups, my question of playability leads me to this: how do i use my trem and keep in tune? I like to use the trem a lot, yank it around srv style. My current situation is this: touch the trem, retune... touch the trem, retune... At least its consistent. In terms of what is most important to staying in tune, how would you order these:
machine heads
nut
# of springs in trem
bridge
sting size (only one person i talked to mentioned this)
is there anything else that can be done?
Is it a vintage type trem ( 6 screws ) ?
If so , raise all the screws a few mm whilst turning the trem to the back of the guitar and holding the block flat against the guitar .
Then lower the 2 outside screws to the plate . Both screws that hold the trem block springs underneath the guitar should be the same distance from the wood . Some claim that having one side further out than the other helps , but I suggest you ignore that claim .
Number of springs is irrelevant . I use 3 .
If you are going to use the trem in an abusive way , then perhaps have it non floating . 3 or 5 will accomplish this . Make sure all strings are seated well in the holes , and on the rings , and that they have enough tension not to be loose , especially if you use 5 , as they will pop out . Don't use 5 if you want it to float , as you will certainly risk a pop out due to lack of tension .
Be sure all springs are the same size ( you'll be surprised ) .
Nut : Obviously a well cut nut helps .
Try to avoid plastic . A Lipsol stick is perfect for storing in your case as a vaseline additive to the nut slots . You can also grind some pencil lead into the vaseline if you wish by simply sanding some from the tip of a pencil into a spoon . It will make the nut darker where applied , but not an issue . Just wipe of the excess .
Also add some vaseline to the underneath of your string tree/s , but not the post holes . Decent tuners help , but the MIM should be fine . Don't over tighten the tension screws .
You can also add a little to the saddles but not essential .
String gauges .
Not as relevant as some might suggest , though SRV tuned down to Eb and used heavier gauges . He wasn't as heavy handed with the trem though as your post suggests for the most part , especially if you look at tunes such as Rivierra Paradise for example .
Heavy gauges and lower tunings mean adjustment to your set up so bare that in mind . Also heavy gauges and non floating trem aren't good for subtle trem use , as there is quite a bit of leverage needed .
The most important issue with your strings is to stretch them , so that the tuning doesn't fall flat after you bend a string . Hold onto the first fret of the string and pull up slightly , and retune , untill it stops going flat .
When you retune , always tune up , not down , and give a little pull , before tuning it up again so as to stabilize the string . Tuning down allows slackness to develop .
Don't have too many winds on your posts , but just enough to snag the first wind under the next few winds . Don't cut the string untill all slippage has disappeared , especially on the thin strings , or they may slip through .
When you set the height of your saddles , use a metal ruler on the last fret , which will allow you to have the strings perfect to your neck radius . Simply measure each string height and adjust accordingly . The thicker strings may benefit from being slightly higher , but it will depend on whether you get buzz .
Standard gauge string sets ( i.e. a box of Dadario for example ) aren't always perfect for everybody , nor are they necessarily blending the tension well . In a set of 9's for example , I will change the 16 for a 15 which in my opinion works better . Other gauges will vary .
Covers most of it .
Axis29 July 2nd, 2008, 08:13 AM Nut slots, nut slots, not sluts. Make sure they are wide enough for your strings and lubed with graphite or chapstick or whatever you find works best. I like graphite, cause there's always a pencil laying around.
Not too many windings of string on the posts! If you have vintage tuners, really, you must only have a winding or two on there at most! If you have modern tuners, try locking the string to itself like I found instructions for in my Gretsch guitar manual (http://www.gretschguitars.com/resources/guitar_guide.html) You basically stick the string through, bring it back and wrap it around the string coming from the nut. I did this on my Gretsch and it keeps it tight and in tune like nobody's business. I only have one, maybe one and half wraps on each post (even the high E!!!!) and it's stayed in tune for more than a week with me yanking on the bigsby (maybe not quite as violent as a strat trem, but still...)
Or get locking tuners. The new Gotoh vintage looking ones are nice. I have them on my CP 50's strat and they are very nice. The locking Sperzels are nice as well.
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