P-bass swap with J-bass bridge?

I have an MIM P-Bass that I have spiffied up a little (Vintage Vibe pup, black pearloid pickguard, mid-cut mod, different knobs). It's sweeeeeeet, but I have been longing for a custom bridge in black to match the rest of the trim.

There's a Wilkinson J-Bass bridge on eBay - what's the difference? Different string width at the bridge, etc? Mounting screw scheme and spacing? Will that bridge fit the P-Bass?

Thanks!

I have an MIM P-Bass that I have spiffied up a little (Vintage Vibe pup, black pearloid pickguard, mid-cut mod, different knobs). It's sweeeeeeet, but I have been longing for a custom bridge in black to match the rest of the trim.

There's a Wilkinson J-Bass bridge on eBay - what's the difference? Different string width at the bridge, etc? Mounting screw scheme and spacing? Will that bridge fit the P-Bass?

Thanks!

I believe that MIM Fenders use the same bridge for the P & the J.

my jazz's and p's have the same bridges. mind you, they are vintage so the fingerboard radius is 7.25. i don't know if MIM bridges differ with the 9.5 radius so, you may want to figure that out before bidding. or....... wait for tim to chime in. i'm sure he would know the answer.

Deaf Eddie, the bridge will work however I would buy a "badass" if I was trying to upgrade. Solid and sustains better IMO. By the way thank you for your sharing your expertise: I used your super switch mod on my tele and am totally happy with the result,Thanks: Bil

There's no difference between a J and P bridge (except on pre-1957 Precisions and their reissues that have the original 2-saddle bridges). If it's the same as this (http://www.wdmusic.com/wilkinson_bass_bridge_black_24844_prd1.htm) Wilkinson bridge, it's a drop-in replacement, no drilling necessary.

Bil is certainly entitled to his opinion but I would never put a Badass bridge on one of my basses.

Dave W, Iam curious: why not? Bil

Actually, it's this similar to this Schaller bridge - way fancier than the stock bridge:

Jazz Bass bridge (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140233929712&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:US:1123)

Dave W, Iam curious: why not? Bil

Just don't like the effect on the tone. To me it's more sustain, but with the loss of some of the P-bass tone I like.

Actually, it's this similar to this Schaller bridge - way fancier than the stock bridge:

Jazz Bass bridge (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140233929712&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:US:1123)

That's a Schaller roller bridge. It's a nice bridge but it's not a direct replacement, you would have to drill new holes. And be aware that it sits lower than a stock bridge, you'll probably have to shim.

If you're going to change out the bridge on your Jazz, do so with a direct replacement. Much less hassle and you can do it yourself in a few minutes.
I'd suggest a Leo Quan Badass II, or a Gotoh 201. Both will just "drop in". ;)

As to the BAdass question, I used to have 2 Ps, one with, one without. Couldn't tell the difference. The one without, which is my current P, has the best sustain of any P I've played, period. Good mod if you like the look, though!

My only beef with the BA is that the bridges will absolutely color the sound depending on the method used to slot the bridge. If the slot's are done properly, you should get sustain but without the over the top 'aggressive, zingy thing' that sort of made BA famous back in the day. The vast majority that I have seen have not been properly slotted though...

The pre-slotted variety are a joke IMO. Very metallic sounding - great if you're after Geddy - not so hot if you're after a Duck'erson kinda of thing.

Where the BA shines is in repairs that require moving the bridge. The extra long travel can be helpful there. It isn't a great way to do things but - in some budget sensitive repair scenarios - it's an option. Slotting the pieces is still a bear though.

I've had a few good BA equipped basses over the years and to be sure LQ was first guy on the block with a good replacement bridge. It's just that the install and setup is not easy for most folks and most folks get it wrong. Badly wrong.

If you want more sustain but a more traditional tone the Gotoh (201 ?) bridge is a far better choice. More mass than the standard bridge, traditionally shaped bridge pieces. A pretty trad look as well. Approximately the same bridge piece height. Much simpler installation and setup. For the average Joe - it's the way to go. IMO, YMMV, the 40 standard disclaimers.

OK, thanks for all the input...
I'll probably be keeping the stocker, as this swap would have been mainly for cosmetic reasons.

NEXT QUESTION:

Graptech saddles? Do they change the tone, and how?
BRASS saddles - same questions...

NEXT QUESTION:

Graptech saddles? Do they change the tone, and how?
BRASS saddles - same questions...

Never tried Graphtec. My feeling on saddle material is that any change in tone comes from the weight of the material, not what it's made of. That's assuming you're talking about the same style of bridge.

I'd get a black Gotoh 201, great replacement bridge, direct replacement,looks cool, sounds great See It Here (http://www.warmoth.com/hardware/bridges/bridges.cfm?fuseaction=bridges_gotoh_201)

OK, thanks for all the input...
I'll probably be keeping the stocker, as this swap would have been mainly for cosmetic reasons.

NEXT QUESTION:

Graptech saddles? Do they change the tone, and how?
BRASS saddles - same questions...

I replaced threaded barrels on a 75 RI with Graphtech's. Not sure why threaded barrels were on the 75 RI but it was used so ... anyway I don't notice them tonally a bit so I would say they are neutral.

My take on bridges in general is that break angle and the shape of the slot are the two factor's to consider. Going with a round barrel saddle, rounded slot is the easiest bet for quick replacement - everything else is going to take some work ...