OK I know it's been covered, but....

Sometimes there's just too much info for the 'technically challenged' types like me......so


I have just acquired a 1999 MIM standard Telecaster (250. CAN$ Whoo hooo! That's Tele #2!),


What kind of slotted tuners are a drop-in replacement? (No conversion or drilling please)

I have a vintage bridge on order from Stew-Mac. By all accounts, it should be a drop-in for the MIM standard. I'm told it's a pretty straight-forward operation but are there some step-by-step tutorials w/pics just so I can see what I'm in for?

Also, I have a pre-wired control plate assembly on order from Callaham.
I would need to see how this is done as well.

Please, as I said, I know it's been done so perhaps just direct me to the right threads. I've done the searches, but there's a whole lotta info out there and I just can't seem to zero in on the basics.

Thanks

Stevie-

I don't have any pictorials, but I can certainly walk you through what you need to do. I'm going to assume that you'll be changing the controls at the same time as you are changing the bridge; if the controls are a later project you wouldn't want to desolder the pickup leads just yet, as the bridge can be changed without undoing the pup connections. I'm also assuming that the wiring on your new Callaham controls is the same as the stock wiring.

First, assemble your tools. You need a phillips screwdriver that will fit properly into the bridge and cavity cover screws. You will need a soldering iron and some rosin-core solder. You may also need a hex nut driver or hex wrench that will fit the hex nut on the output jack. A needlenose pliers is also helpful for holding things in place while soldering.

Second, destring the guitar.

Third, remove the control cavity cover, and move it to the side, to the extent the wires will allow. I usually put a piece of cloth under the control assembly to avoid scratching the body. Draw yourself a diagram of where the pos. and neg. leads from each pickup connect, where the ground wire from the bridge connects, and where the wires to the output jack connect. You don't need to worry about all the other wiring between the pots and the switch because you're going to be replacing all that anyway.

Fourth, heat your soldering iron and desolder the pickup connections (for both pickups) from the switch. I usually use a small piece of 1/4" plywood between the body and the controls, wrapped in a scrap piece of cloth to avoid scratching the body. This is just in case you drip a big glob of solder onto the guitar while soldering/desoldering. You may also find it helpful to use one of those rubber-squeeze-bulb type desoldering tools to suck up the excess solder; I find that I don't have enough hands to use one effectively.:roll:

Fifth, desolder the bridge ground.

Sixth, check your replacement control plate. Does it have leads already soldered to the pot to go to the output jack? If so, removed the out jack and desolder the connections from it. If there are no leads to the jack already installed in the new controls, desolder your existing leads at the pot ends and leave the jack in place. Remove your old controls and set aside.

Seventh, loosen the pickup screws holding the bridge pickup to the point where you can finger-twist them off, but do not remove them completely yet. Unscrew and remove all the screws holding the bridge plate on. Remove the bridge plate, carefully pulling all the wires through the hole to the control cavity. Detach the bridge ground wire. (you may have to desolder this depending on how it's connected) Then remove the pickup screws completely and remove the pickup.

Eighth, remount the pickup in the new bridge. Remount the ground wire to the new bridge (may need to be soldered on, depending). Feed all the wires through the hole into the cavity. Position and mount the new bridge and screw down. Adjust pickup height as necessary.

Ninth, Place the new control plate and controls on your cloth-covered plywood, next to the control cavity. Consult your diagram and resolder the pickup connections to the new switch. Do likewise with the bridge ground.

Tenth, if your new controls included the jack leads, solder the new jack leads to the jack as per your diagram, and remount the jack to the guitar. If not, reattach the old jack leads to the new pots as per your diagram. Replace the control plate, being careful not to pinch any wires in the process. Then screw it down.

Eleventh, restring and tune. Double check that everything works properly.

Twelfth, unless you are comfortable doing this yourself, take the guitar to a tech to have the intonation properly set. Since you have replaced the bridge, this needs to be done.

There! - 12 easy steps and you're done! That was easy, wasn't it?:lol: Just kidding, I know it's a little intimidating to start disassembling a nice guitar. Just take your time, do it step-by-step, and you'll be fine.

As far as the tuners go, can't help you there, I always order the wrong ones! I've got more sets of new tuners (with no guitars that'll fit 'em) than I care to tally.

Aww man, thanks a lot Newie. Musta taken you some time to put that together and I'm grateful. That's gonna help an awful lot.
Thanks again. :grin:

This has always been, and I hope it remains a nice site. Friendly, talented.
What cold be better?

Gary

A 12" #2 Phillips to set intonation without bruising the top finish with the screwdriver handle.

Otherwise, massive post, Newie.

What kind of slotted tuners are a drop-in replacement? (No conversion or drilling please)

There will be no absolute drop-in replacements. Going from modern-to-vintage tuners usually entails:

1) conversion bushings instead of the bushings that came with the tuners
2) drilling 7 small holes on the back pf the headstock

There will be no absolute drop-in replacements. Going from modern-to-vintage tuners usually entails:

1) conversion bushings instead of the bushings that came with the tuners
2) drilling 7 small holes on the back pf the headstock

_______________

aunchaki,

I've been surfing long and hard and it seems you are 100% correct.
So I've opted to go modern. After all, my main concern is to have a good reliable Tele to play. I managed to find a set of AmStd Schallers
that will be a drop -in replacement on flea-bay. Cost $45 (CAD) + shipping.
(man, this is fun!)

Thanks all

This has always been, and I hope it remains a nice site. Friendly, talented.
What cold be better?

Gary

+1:grin:
Cold beers for all you guys

What kind of slotted tuners are a drop-in replacement? (No conversion or drilling please)

I have a vintage bridge on order from Stew-Mac. By all accounts, it should be a drop-in for the MIM standard. I'm told it's a pretty straight-forward operation but are there some step-by-step tutorials w/pics just so I can see what I'm in for?

Also, I have a pre-wired control plate assembly on order from Callaham.
I would need to see how this is done as well.



You gotta drill, and use the conversion bushings. You can do it. Remember, this isn't your kid brother you're drilling into, just a $ 250 guitar. Relax. Your guitar is the #1 perfect candidate for the Gotoh 'klusons' plus conversion bushings.

I hope you got the # 0099 and not the # 4583. If you got a # 4583, that beautiful Callaham control plate will be totally put to waste. Send # 4583s back. Use # 5167s with the #0099, or get the Callaham plate and saddles.

The control plate assembly you ordered will have directions. You can use your existing control plate to practice on, improve you soldering skills.

There's no substitute for reading as much of this as you can. Find a few posters who make the most sense to you, and just go through every one of their posts, pictures, diagrams and website recommendations.

Don't neglect to play the heck out of the guitar as it is. You'll have a much better appreciation for the improvements if you try first to function with the guitar pretty much as you bought it, maybe new strings.

Boris B,
Thanks for your input

"You gotta drill, and use the conversion bushings. You can do it. Remember, this isn't your kid brother you're drilling into, just a $ 250 guitar. Relax. Your guitar is the #1 perfect candidate for the Gotoh 'klusons' plus conversion bushings."

You're right, but I live in a small apt and all I have is a crappy little hand drill

"I hope you got the # 0099 and not the # 4583. If you got a # 4583, that beautiful Callaham control plate will be totally put to waste. Send # 4583s back. Use # 5167s with the #0099, or get the Callaham plate and saddles."

This here's what I got:

#5071 Wilkinson Adjustable Compensated Vintage Tele Bridge Complete bridge assembly, chrome

So, is this OK?

(BTW - I've been playing the ***** outta her for the last few days, so I'm starting to see her strong and weak points.)

Cheers

Well, I managed to swap the standard bridge out for the Wilkinson.
I'm surprised how well it went since I've never done anything like this before.

Everything lined up perfectly. No set-up or intonation issues and it totally changed the sound and the feel of the guitar for the better.

Anyone thinking of upgrading a MIM tele should do the bridge 1st before anything - it really opens the sound right up.

Next steps:
-tuners
-control assembly.

Boris B,
Thanks for your input

"You gotta drill, and use the conversion bushings. You can do it. Remember, this isn't your kid brother you're drilling into, just a $ 250 guitar. Relax. Your guitar is the #1 perfect candidate for the Gotoh 'klusons' plus conversion bushings."

You're right, but I live in a small apt and all I have is a crappy little hand drill

"I hope you got the # 0099 and not the # 4583. If you got a # 4583, that beautiful Callaham control plate will be totally put to waste. Send # 4583s back. Use # 5167s with the #0099, or get the Callaham plate and saddles."

This here's what I got:

#5071 Wilkinson Adjustable Compensated Vintage Tele Bridge Complete bridge assembly, chrome

So, is this OK?

(BTW - I've been playing the ***** outta her for the last few days, so I'm starting to see her strong and weak points.)

Cheers

Hi, You should be fine with a "crappy little hand drill", actually I think you might be better off with it than some big power drill, as you'll have more control.

First push the bushes in to the tuner holes. I've had some bushs' that go in with just a firm push using the end of a wooden hammer handle(Wilkinsons) and others (Fender "Klusons") that needed a drill press....

Once they are in, put the tuners in the headstock and use a straight edge to line them up. Then mark the new screw holes with a pencil. Now make a coffee, relax for a few minutes, then check the alignment again! Mark the new holes with a pointed brad awl or other sharp instrument.

When you're happy, use a 1mm drill bit with in your hand drill. make sure the headstock is held firmly and keep the drill at 90 degrees to the headstock. You might want to put a little tape on the drill bit at the depth you want to drill to.

Once the holes are drilled, fit everything up, use a straight edge again to line the tuners up and carefully screw in the little screws.

It's a tricky job rather than a difficult one, just take your time, check everything twice and you'll be fine.

Hi, You should be fine with a "crappy little hand drill", actually I think you might be better off with it than some big power drill, as you'll have more control.

First push the bushes in to the tuner holes. I've had some bushs' that go in with just a firm push using the end of a wooden hammer handle(Wilkinsons) and others (Fender "Klusons") that needed a drill press....

Once they are in, put the tuners in the headstock and use a straight edge to line them up. Then mark the new screw holes with a pencil. Now make a coffee, relax for a few minutes, then check the alignment again! Mark the new holes with a pointed brad awl or other sharp instrument.

When you're happy, use a 1mm drill bit with in your hand drill. make sure the headstock is held firmly and keep the drill at 90 degrees to the headstock. You might want to put a little tape on the drill bit at the depth you want to drill to.

Once the holes are drilled, fit everything up, use a straight edge again to line the tuners up and carefully screw in the little screws.

It's a tricky job rather than a difficult one, just take your time, check everything twice and you'll be fine.

===================================

Ya make it sound easy :grin:
Thanks

Well,
got my Callaham control plate assembly in the mail today. I practiced soldering on some junk just to get the hang of it ('cause I've never actually done it before) and then, with diagram in hand, I dove in. If I do gotta say so meself, I did a pretty clean job. Took me about 1/2 hour.
Then, with fingers crossed I plugged her in and beautiful sounds bloomed from my amp!

Whooo hooo! DAMN! this is fun :lol:

Stevie-

Glad it worked out for you. BlimpyBoy's got you on the right track as far as the tuner replacement goes, the only thing I would add is that a rubber-coated deadblow hammer works better for seating the tuner bushings, you're less likely to mung up the face of the bushing that way. Even the wood end of a regular hammer can do some damage if you're not super-careful.

I can see you have the hang of this. Soldering up with no issues; the tuners won't be too hard for you and you bet a hand drill will work fine.

Yes, the Wilkinson bridge, forgot Stew Mac offers that as well.

Congrats so far. No doubt, something so symmetrical and righteous about a Tele with a vintage shaped bridge. YMMV. I guess I spend to much time looking at these things, 2 years ago it made no difference to me what it looked like.

.
........No doubt, something so symmetrical and righteous about a Tele with a vintage shaped bridge. YMMV. I guess I spend to much time looking at these things, 2 years ago it made no difference to me what it looked like.

==============================================

Yup, it's a beautiful thing.
You guys helped me a lot, and it gave me the confidence to do this. Cold beers all around :lol:
Cheers