$299 Gibson tube amp - Made in USA! - Page 5

red57strat · March 3rd, 2008, 12:49 PM

They're made in USA regardless of what you may have heard.

Sure it has some imported parts and subassemblies, but what doesn't?
A Ford Mustang has more imported content than a US built Toyota Camry!

As far as the closeout pricing is concerned-
I'm sure that Gibson has a huge number of these that they have to liquidate in order to continue their merger with TC.

gibsonjunkie · March 3rd, 2008, 12:55 PM

Interesting enough, Guitar Center has them for $699 on their web site.

Sidney Vicious · March 3rd, 2008, 03:57 PM

Waiting for Robbie D to chime back in - I just KNOW he's up to something having discovered that 8 ohm tap . . . .

Meanwhile, I'm debating pulling the trigger on another one of these cuties.

Anybody know how many are left?

Should I wait for a returned discounted item?

Guitarslinger1 · March 3rd, 2008, 04:22 PM

I've got one of these on the way, should be here her Thursday. I need another amp like I need another guitar, but I figured what the hell...

I couldn't build a comparable amp for anything close to that price, and can mod anything on it that I want to dial it in, so it seems like a winner.

First thing I see is that since it has solid state rectification, there's no possibility of using an indirectly-heated cathode tube rectifier to make up for the lack of a standby switch, so a standby switch mod is in order to increase tube life.

JamonHamon · March 3rd, 2008, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sidney Vicious

Waiting for Robbie D to chime back in - I just KNOW he's up to something having discovered that 8 ohm tap . . . .

Meanwhile, I'm debating pulling the trigger on another one of these cuties.

Anybody know how many are left?

Should I wait for a returned discounted item?

There are 200 left as of 10pm 3-2-08

This is not me
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PhnhBltrI6k

red57strat · March 3rd, 2008, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by specialty guitars

First thing I see is that since it has solid state rectification, there's no possibility of using an indirectly-heated cathode tube rectifier to make up for the lack of a standby switch, so a standby switch mod is in order to increase tube life.

Would a Weber Copper Cap make a difference?

Guitarslinger1 · March 3rd, 2008, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by red57strat

Would a Weber Copper Cap make a difference?

You know, it would.

You'd need to drill a hole for another octal socket, but that's doable. If the PT has the 5 volt tap, you could use a GZ34, but if not, you could use Weber's Copper Cap version. It has the delayed warm up, that would help the other tubes.

Excellent idea!

Guitarslinger1 · March 3rd, 2008, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by specialty guitars

You know, it would.

You'd need to drill a hole for another octal socket, but that's doable. If the PT has the 5 volt tap, you could use a GZ34, but if not, you could use Weber's Copper Cap version. It has the delayed warm up, that would help the other tubes.

Excellent idea!

For that matter, there may be room in the chassis to just fasten the Weber Copper cap on its side in the chassis and solder to the pins. No hassle with the socket.

red57strat · March 3rd, 2008, 07:06 PM

I noticed that the amp is louder and better sounding without the back panel on. The mesh appears to restrict the sound.
Then I noticed that the speaker grill cloth is hard. There's an even more dense (very dense!) steel mesh in the grill.
I bet the amp would really open up with both steel meshes removed.

Mat · March 3rd, 2008, 07:38 PM

Uggh!

I live in Australia and they won't post!

Anyone any ideas how I can get one?

NewOldStock · March 3rd, 2008, 08:44 PM

Quote:

The mesh appears to restrict the sound.
Then I noticed that the speaker grill cloth is hard. There's an even more dense (very dense!) steel mesh in the grill.

I bet the amp would really open up with both steel meshes removed.

I got mine today and had my speaker out earlier. The front grill looked to be the same thick material as the rear grill. My first thought was to remove it. Probably will.

I'm not sure what I plan on doing yet. It sounds great. I thought about throwing a 10" in there. It will just squeeze in, since the cage is able to slide in that small open space between the cab & chassis.

I'm also thinking of building a 1X12" cab and putting the GA-5 chassis in that.

I had to ditch the 12AX7. Way too much drive with my Strat pickups. I replaced it with an AT7 and it's MUCH better but it's still seems like a lot. I'm ordering some AY7's and lower tonight.

This amp is voiced perfectly for my bridge pickups, but a little dark on the middle and neck pickups. I'll find a way to even everything out soon. I just opened the package 3 hours ago so I've mostly been playing the thing.

electricbody · March 3rd, 2008, 09:10 PM

I don't need one. I have a SFVC. I don't need one, right? Please sell out soon.

kidA · March 3rd, 2008, 11:50 PM

I haven't even been to this site in the last 6 months because i've been at college and didn't bring my electric with me. But i stop by to check stuff out and THIS?!?! i ordered one, or rather i had my dad spot me for one, it's coming by the end of the week! my first legit tube amp! i'm only slightly excited.

Gee · March 4th, 2008, 02:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by red57strat

Would a Weber Copper Cap make a difference?

A better way would be to change the On/Off switch for a Carling Off/On/On switch or use a normal SPDT On/center Off/On switch for the standby and On Off functions.

Rob DiStefano · March 4th, 2008, 06:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gee

A better way would be to change the On/Off switch for a Carling Off/On/On switch or use a normal SPDT On/center Off/On switch for the standby and On Off functions.

Exactly. All my tube amps sport Carling 3-ways for off/standby/on - aside from the rewiring, it'd be a direct replacement in the GA-5 for the existing 2-way without having to drill another control faceplate hole.

I don't see a need (right now) to mod the diode rectifier, particularly if a standby is added.

Those mesh grilles - front and rear - beg to be removed, and the cord box needs demolition.

I'm gonna add a 1/4" 8 ohm speaker jack to run an external cab (since the Heyboer OT is 4/8 ohm tapped). The JenNeo 2x12 I'm building will be a nice tonal experiment.

A 10" will fit, but it will be partially blocked by the baffle's TV front. I have a hefty 8 ohm Weber Chicago Vintage CTC-10" that should be sweet for this amp.

Now all I need is the TIME to fiddle with this GA-5, while awaiting another to arrive!

Sidney Vicious · March 4th, 2008, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob DiStefano

Exactly. All my tube amps sport Carling 3-ways for off/standby/on - aside from the rewiring, it'd be a direct replacement in the GA-5 for the existing 2-way without having to drill another control faceplate hole.

I don't see a need (right now) to mod the diode rectifier, particularly if a standby is added.

Those mesh grilles - front and rear - beg to be removed, and the cord box needs demolition.I'm gonna add a 1/4" 8 ohm speaker jack to run an external cab (since the Heyboer OT is 4/8 ohm tapped). The JenNeo 2x12 I'm building will be a nice tonal experiment.

A 10" will fit, but it will be partially blocked by the baffle's TV front. I have a hefty 8 ohm Weber Chicago Vintage CTC-10" that should be sweet for this amp.

Now all I need is the TIME to fiddle with this GA-5, while awaiting another to arrive!

Is the front mesh stapled in similar fashion to the rear?

Do you think that the metal grill - front and/or rear - is sonically choking the amp? I would think it would have no effect - unlike say a heavy cloth grill.
Or is removal a convenience thing, as I know the cord cubby hole is tight.

(edited for clarity)

red57strat · March 4th, 2008, 09:57 AM

The mesh panels have to be restricting the amp somewhat.

The front mesh on mine is much finer that the rear mesh. It's appears to be more than 50% occluded!

They did some nasty, though reversable, things to these amps to make them "safer". Safer for theire lawyers, that is!

The cord box on mine is held in with glue and small nails from the inside. It will come out easily. The rear mesh will also be easy to remove. The front mesh will be more difficult because the grill cloth will need to be removed and put back on.

A pair of Switchcraft jacks to replace the plastic jacks would be nice too, but I won't do that unless I have some on hand or happen to be ordering something else.

This nice little amp could be turned into a great little amp with a few free and/or very inexpensive mods that won't really change it's character but will allow it to perform it's best.

mistermullens · March 4th, 2008, 10:05 AM

I removed the screen from the back panel the other day in preperation for hooking up my 2x10 cab. The RCA>1/4 adapter I ordered from Weber is sitting on my front porch right now and I'll be pissin' off my wife and neighbors as soon as I get home!

tc6969 · March 4th, 2008, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob DiStefano

I'm gonna add a 1/4" 8 ohm speaker jack to run an external cab (since the Heyboer OT is 4/8 ohm tapped). The JenNeo 2x12 I'm building will be a nice tonal experiment.

If I Am reading this right, you can use the 8ohm lead for an external cabinet while using the onboard 4 ohm at the same time?

Or is it a one or the other kind of thing?

Guitarslinger1 · March 4th, 2008, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gee

A better way would be to change the On/Off switch for a Carling Off/On/On switch or use a normal SPDT On/center Off/On switch for the standby and On Off functions.

That does make the most sense, and would be the simplest solution.

DavidP · March 4th, 2008, 11:54 AM

I just tried Sweetwater (out of stock) and ZZounds (unable to price match)--any one got other leads for the 299 price. If I do have to go MF, what's the scoop on coupons??

Rob DiStefano · March 4th, 2008, 12:12 PM

Some minor GA-5 surgery ...

The plug box ...

Hit the back of the plug box with a piece of redwood baffle cleat and a fretting hammer and "bam", all gone save for the brads ...

Brads pulled through fairly easily with a pair of dykes and some leverage ...

Rob DiStefano · March 4th, 2008, 12:13 PM

Pulled the chassis ...

The insulated green wire off the OT is the 8 ohm tap ...

Drill the chassis hole for the 1/4" jack ...

Mount the wire the jack (oops, red lead is ground!) ...

Sidney Vicious · March 4th, 2008, 12:33 PM

I am liking what I am seeing RobD - keep 'em coming.

March 3rd, 2008, 12:49 PM	#161 (permalink)
red57strat Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 1,070	They're made in USA regardless of what you may have heard. Sure it has some imported parts and subassemblies, but what doesn't? A Ford Mustang has more imported content than a US built Toyota Camry! As far as the closeout pricing is concerned- I'm sure that Gibson has a huge number of these that they have to liquidate in order to continue their merger with TC. __________________ Don Last edited by red57strat : March 3rd, 2008 at 01:53 PM. Reason: spelling

March 3rd, 2008, 12:55 PM	#162 (permalink)
gibsonjunkie Tele-Holic Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Bloomfield, Connecticut Age: 54 Posts: 505	Interesting enough, Guitar Center has them for $699 on their web site. __________________ The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese...

March 3rd, 2008, 07:06 PM	#169 (permalink)
red57strat Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 1,070	I noticed that the amp is louder and better sounding without the back panel on. The mesh appears to restrict the sound. Then I noticed that the speaker grill cloth is hard. There's an even more dense (very dense!) steel mesh in the grill. I bet the amp would really open up with both steel meshes removed. __________________ Don

March 3rd, 2008, 11:50 PM	#173 (permalink)
kidA Tele-Meister Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: NYC, Dallas Posts: 153	I haven't even been to this site in the last 6 months because i've been at college and didn't bring my electric with me. But i stop by to check stuff out and THIS?!?! i ordered one, or rather i had my dad spot me for one, it's coming by the end of the week! my first legit tube amp! i'm only slightly excited. __________________ Don't you dare tell me "you get what you pay for."

March 4th, 2008, 09:57 AM	#177 (permalink)
red57strat Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 1,070	The mesh panels have to be restricting the amp somewhat. The front mesh on mine is much finer that the rear mesh. It's appears to be more than 50% occluded! They did some nasty, though reversable, things to these amps to make them "safer". Safer for theire lawyers, that is! The cord box on mine is held in with glue and small nails from the inside. It will come out easily. The rear mesh will also be easy to remove. The front mesh will be more difficult because the grill cloth will need to be removed and put back on. A pair of Switchcraft jacks to replace the plastic jacks would be nice too, but I won't do that unless I have some on hand or happen to be ordering something else. This nice little amp could be turned into a great little amp with a few free and/or very inexpensive mods that won't really change it's character but will allow it to perform it's best. __________________ Don

March 3rd, 2008, 03:57 PM	#163 (permalink)
Sidney Vicious Tele-Holic Join Date: May 2003 Location: New Orleans, Louisiana, USA Posts: 966 6 Photos	Waiting for Robbie D to chime back in - I just KNOW he's up to something having discovered that 8 ohm tap . . . . Meanwhile, I'm debating pulling the trigger on another one of these cuties. Anybody know how many are left? Should I wait for a returned discounted item?

March 3rd, 2008, 04:22 PM	#164 (permalink)
Guitarslinger1 Tele-Holic Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 877	I've got one of these on the way, should be here her Thursday. I need another amp like I need another guitar, but I figured what the hell... I couldn't build a comparable amp for anything close to that price, and can mod anything on it that I want to dial it in, so it seems like a winner. First thing I see is that since it has solid state rectification, there's no possibility of using an indirectly-heated cathode tube rectifier to make up for the lack of a standby switch, so a standby switch mod is in order to increase tube life.

March 3rd, 2008, 07:38 PM	#170 (permalink)
Mat TDPRI Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 42	Uggh! I live in Australia and they won't post! Anyone any ideas how I can get one?

March 3rd, 2008, 09:10 PM	#172 (permalink)
electricbody Tele-Meister Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: USA Age: 39 Posts: 218 3 Photos	I don't need one. I have a SFVC. I don't need one, right? Please sell out soon.

March 4th, 2008, 10:05 AM	#178 (permalink)
mistermullens Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Atlanta Posts: 1,590 56 Photos	I removed the screen from the back panel the other day in preperation for hooking up my 2x10 cab. The RCA>1/4 adapter I ordered from Weber is sitting on my front porch right now and I'll be pissin' off my wife and neighbors as soon as I get home! __________________ Jonathan - Demos@purevolume.com When the power of love overcomes the love of power, the world will know peace. - Jimi All I need is my Esquire - MM

March 4th, 2008, 11:54 AM	#181 (permalink)
DavidP Tele-Meister Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 468	Who else besides MF is blowing these out? I just tried Sweetwater (out of stock) and ZZounds (unable to price match)--any one got other leads for the 299 price. If I do have to go MF, what's the scoop on coupons?? __________________ too many guitars...

March 4th, 2008, 12:12 PM	#182 (permalink)
Rob DiStefano Friend of Leo's Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Park Ridge, NJ Age: 62 Posts: 4,458	Some minor GA-5 surgery ... The plug box ... Hit the back of the plug box with a piece of redwood baffle cleat and a fretting hammer and "bam", all gone save for the brads ... Brads pulled through fairly easily with a pair of dykes and some leverage ...

March 4th, 2008, 12:13 PM	#183 (permalink)
Rob DiStefano Friend of Leo's Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Park Ridge, NJ Age: 62 Posts: 4,458	Pulled the chassis ... The insulated green wire off the OT is the 8 ohm tap ... Drill the chassis hole for the 1/4" jack ... Mount the wire the jack (oops, red lead is ground!) ...

March 4th, 2008, 12:33 PM	#184 (permalink)
Sidney Vicious Tele-Holic Join Date: May 2003 Location: New Orleans, Louisiana, USA Posts: 966 6 Photos	I am liking what I am seeing RobD - keep 'em coming.