VOM Project amp tech question - Pilot light source

[Telelicious]

So Im coming close to finishing my little 5 watt Voice of Music amp project.

Ive just got to route and finish soldering up the wiring to the switches.

Ive added a pilot light which the original chassis did not have and I was wondering if its better to use 120v from source or take 6v off one of the sockets to power the pilot light. Maybe neither?
Whats best source for the pilot?

This really isnt an amp build or kit. Its just an old mono amp frankenamp revamp thingy.

Help? Thanks

[jh45gun]

For my Pilot light for my 5e3 build since my zenith chassis did not have one either I just went with a 6V light and took it off of the last tube filament windings. Since V1 for my amp was the last in the line for the Filament windings I just soldered wires to both pins that had the filament wires and put them on the light socket I bought for a Bayonet base lamp. One thing about using the Filament wireing and a 6V lamp if the light is burning you know your filaments are working.

[jh45gun]

Started typing before I saw the pics Nice job on the amp looks good!

[Telelicious]

Yeah I was thinking that the 6v route made more sense.
I was just going thru the bulb bins at my local electronics shop and found some 120v mini bulbs that fit in the pilot socket so it got me thinking since the power switch was right next to it......
That 6v off the last filiment does make good sense.
Thanks.

[Jaybird]

You really did a great job on that VOM!!!!! Some useful info that I found on the Kalamazoo Amp Field Guide site.
"These instructions will work for almost any, old guitar amp, except that the switch and fuse may be located in other spots, and the power lamp may not be hooked to the AC line. The concepts are the same for a Reverb 12, but the layout is very different. I'll get pictures up on that when I have a chance.

Lose the old cord
With the unit unplugged and the filter caps discharged, cut or desolder the old, two-wire, line cord from the fuse and switch. While you're at it, get rid of the cap from the switch to chassis ground (leave that ground lug, though!) Save the cap; if it's still in good shape you may be able to use it for something else. Pull the old cord out through the hole in the chassis. If you can't get the strain relief to let go of the cord, you'll need to cut it.


Hook up the new cord
NOTE: If you use a computer power cord or other cord based on the international wiring color code, BROWN = HOT, BLUE = NEUTRAL, and GREEN/YELLOW STRIPE = GROUND. For standard power cords in the USA, BLACK = HOT, WHITE = NEUTRAL, and GREEN = GROUND.
Run the new cord (with strain relief on it) through the hole the old line cord used. (Ream the hole out if necessary.) Solder the green wire to the ground lug from which you disconnected the capacitor. Connect the black power cord wire to one lug of the fuse. Run a wire from the other fuse lug to one lug of the power switch. The other power switch lug is connected to one of the lamp leads, and one of the primary (black) leads of the power transformer. The other power transformer (black) lead and the other lamp lead should go to the white power cord wire. Slide some heat shrink tubing over the white wire, solder this last set of leads together and apply heat to the heat shrink tubing. (In the drawing, the blue splotch where the white wire meets two black wires represents where the heat shrink will go. While heat shrink is best, a wire nut is acceptable if the amp won't be moved much.)

If you can't find a strain relief to fit the cord, there are a couple of alternatives. Make sure the edges of the hole are as rounded and edge-free as possible, and either:

put a grommet in the hole, run the cable through, and fasten a wire tie tightly on the cord on each side of the grommet, or
as a last resort, tie a knot in the cord inside the amp before soldering it. "