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Old January 31st, 2008, 07:00 AM   #1 (permalink)
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How do i install a Celestion speaker in a DRRI?

Excuse my noobness, but i'm thinking of swapping a G12H-30 into my DRRI. I read somewhere that there are 8 holes on the stock Jensen, and 4 on the Celestion.

Is there a safe way to install the Celestion without drilling holes to make it fit? I read something about it somewhere, but i can't find it.

Thanks.
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Old January 31st, 2008, 07:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
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2 choices. Drill 4 more holes in the speaker, or cut off 4 mounting screws. My suggestion...drill the holes.
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Old January 31st, 2008, 12:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I drilled the 4 holes in a V30 once. Much better than cutting screws on tne amp. Just hold a vacuum cleaner nozzle near the dril spot to suck up all the metal shavings lest they get stuck all over the magnet.
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Old January 31st, 2008, 04:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I would just break off four of the mounting studs on the baffle board. Grab each one with a vice grip and move it back and forth a few times and the steel will fatigue and break. Just make sure you break off the right four...

Four nuts holding a speaker onto the baffle is plenty. You'll be able to mount Jensen or Celestion speakers in the cabinet at will. I think drilling holes in a speaker basket is silly.
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Old January 31st, 2008, 10:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I would just break off four of the mounting studs on the baffle board. Grab each one with a vice grip and move it back and forth a few times and the steel will fatigue and break. Just make sure you break off the right four...

Four nuts holding a speaker onto the baffle is plenty. You'll be able to mount Jensen or Celestion speakers in the cabinet at will. I think drilling holes in a speaker basket is silly.
Not as silly as busting off the amp's speaker mounting studs.
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Old February 1st, 2008, 02:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Not as silly as busting off the amp's speaker mounting studs.

Only four of 'em. At least, with some effort, they are replaceable. Somewhat. Drilling holes in a speaker basket is completely irreversible. And there's a lot more chance of disaster striking during the drilling operation, one little slip and you've taken out the surround. I would imagine it would void the warranty on the speaker too.

Once the four extra studs are gone, you'll never have to drill anything again, you'll be able to mount just about any speaker you wish. It is not only the easier and more expedient option, but the superior one as well.
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Old February 1st, 2008, 05:37 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Drilling a flexible metal basket, on a device with a powerful magnet to attract chips, and tight tolerances in the voice coil assembly which are easily damaged is not a reasonable course of action.

If you don't want to break off the studs, it is possible to remove the grill cloth and just unscrew the extra studs, and put them in a drawer.

P.
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Old February 1st, 2008, 01:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Drilling a flexible metal basket, on a device with a powerful magnet to attract chips, and tight tolerances in the voice coil assembly which are easily damaged is not a reasonable course of action.

If you don't want to break off the studs, it is possible to remove the grill cloth and just unscrew the extra studs, and put them in a drawer.

P.
Gentlemen,

I successfully drilled 4 extra mounting holes in the rim of a V30 with a friggin hand drill and had no problems whatsoever.

The way I did it was I lined up the speaker on the baffle, resting on the studs with 4 holes lined up. I then pressed on the speaker so the studs would make visible indents in the gasket. Those indents then became the spots for the 4 new holes. If you have a helper hold the hose of a vacuum cleaner tight next to the drill, it will suck up all the metal filings and keep them off the magnet. If you have a steady hand you can easily drill the holes without screwing up the speaker. It wasn't that hard guys, I'm thinking anyone with even mediocre hand tool skills should be able to pull it off without problems. Just make sure the drill bit is nice and sharp so it cuts clean and quick.
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Old February 2nd, 2008, 01:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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On a reissue, bust the studs. On an original DR, drill holes.
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Old February 2nd, 2008, 10:00 PM   #10 (permalink)
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suck up all the metal shavings lest they get stuck all over the magnet.
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device with a powerful magnet to attract chips,
No comment except to reiterate the above. If you get metal shavings inside the Celestion's mesh center dome you will have ruined the speaker. Don't ask me how I know this.
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Old February 3rd, 2008, 06:15 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Gentlemen,

I successfully drilled 4 extra mounting holes in the rim of a V30 with a friggin hand drill and had no problems whatsoever.
In 1969 or '70, I got a Chevy Nova SS396 with bias ply tires up to 140 indicated MPH on the Belt Parkway, and am still here!!!

This doesn't mean it was a good idea.

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Old February 3rd, 2008, 07:24 AM   #12 (permalink)
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In 1969 or '70, I got a Chevy Nova SS396 with bias ply tires up to 140 indicated MPH on the Belt Parkway, and am still here!!!

This doesn't mean it was a good idea.

P.
HAHAHAHAHA! Must have been about 3AM then! Apparently you're not the guy who tried the same in a '67 Stingray a decade later with three 60s and one original bias-ply on Hylan Blvd on Staten Island?. He didn't make it.

Anyway....... if it were me, I'd break the studs out of fear of getting a piece of metal in the vc gap while drilling.

No....... if it were me, I'd be putting a Weber 12F150 in the DR.
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Old February 3rd, 2008, 08:26 AM   #13 (permalink)
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If you don't want to break off the studs, it is possible to remove the grill cloth and just unscrew the extra studs, and put them in a drawer.

P.
I think this would be the "right" way.
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Old February 4th, 2008, 10:10 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks for the tips..

Actually, after i read these comments, i checked the Celestion. It was pulled from another Fender, and the fellow drilled the four other holes. So that was taken care of. After taking off the back panels i realized there was no way that Jensen was coming out, the transformer is sitting right ontop of one of the bolts. So i took off the baffle, replaced the speaker and viola! All is good.

The G12H-30 sounds great. Bigger, fuller, alot more bottom end than the P12Q. Not better, just bigger. The Jensen is alot brighter, so the Celestion does lose some of the top end, but adds just a touch of mids. What i like about this Celestion is that it makes my OD pedals sound better. It gives it a little more of a kick in the butt. I like it
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Old February 4th, 2008, 11:51 AM   #15 (permalink)
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In 1969 or '70, I got a Chevy Nova SS396 with bias ply tires up to 140 indicated MPH on the Belt Parkway, and am still here!!!

This doesn't mean it was a good idea.

P.
A friend of mine from back then has a 1969 SS396 Camaro. Nose heavy (big block) but pulled strong. He spun a bearing. Ouch!!!
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Old February 4th, 2008, 06:57 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks for the tips..

Actually, after i read these comments, i checked the Celestion. It was pulled from another Fender, and the fellow drilled the four other holes. So that was taken care of. After taking off the back panels i realized there was no way that Jensen was coming out, the transformer is sitting right ontop of one of the bolts. So i took off the baffle, replaced the speaker and viola! All is good.

The G12H-30 sounds great. Bigger, fuller, alot more bottom end than the P12Q. Not better, just bigger. The Jensen is alot brighter, so the Celestion does lose some of the top end, but adds just a touch of mids. What i like about this Celestion is that it makes my OD pedals sound better. It gives it a little more of a kick in the butt. I like it

I've got a G12H30 in my Marshall 18-clone, and I have connected that speaker to the output jack of my blackface Deluxe-Amp, and it's a great sound. You can use the Treble control for more than just alleviating pain... It's a big sound, but balanced and very clear.
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