SFDR with 6L6?

[trag-o-caster]

I haven't quite decided yet, but it's crossed my mind to drop off my 69 DR to Mr. Tim Swartz and have 'im set it up for maximum clean headroom. I'm considering the possiblity of changing to 6L6's and, correct me if I'm wrong, but won't that make switching to a SS rectifier mandatory? Would Ted Webers Copper Cap rectos suffice?

I had somewhat of an epiphany today. This will show y'all what a lame-brain I am!

I've never been happy with the sound of my Morley JD10 when used with the DR. I always find myself turning treble to zero on the amp, and it's still too zingy. The same device sounds glorious with my Pro Reverb though. Today it dawned on me why. It's that confounded treble cap that only comes into play when the amp is turned down below 5 or so! Now why didn't I think of that before?

So, after realizing that, I've thought seriously about setting that amp up to use along with that device, and clean headroom is the way to go for the JD10. I'll also need to ditch the Weber ceramic Calif. speaker and go for something a little less bright, and with more low end.

I'm open for any and all suggestions. Thanks in advance!

[fauxsuper]

I'm considering the possiblity of changing to 6L6's and, correct me if I'm wrong, but won't that make switching to a SS rectifier mandatory?

I ran a SFDR for a couple of years with 6L6's in the output position. The amp worked fine without any problems. There was an improvement in clean headroom, but still nowere close to my 68 Bandmaster Reverb running into a 2 x 10 cabinet.. But, I will tell you that when I switched back to 6V6's, the amp's solo voice was MUCH sweeter.

I didn't notice this when I switched to the 6L6's, as I needed headroom more than anything else. But when I switched back I was shcked at how much sweeter the tone was with 6V6's. I founf that running the DR along with an extension cab with a single 12 seeemed to give about as much extra headroom as going to the 6L6's did. But maybe the lack of sag with the SS rectifier will give you a little more.

[trag-o-caster]

Thanks once again fauxsuper.

After doing some digging on the 'net, I think I may have decided on leaving the amp as is, maybe just clip the bright cap, and keep looking for another speaker.

[JohnS]

I love the tone of my Weber Sig 12B in my DRRI. Not too bright.

[PhatTele]

I happen to love 6L6s in Deluxe Reverbs (especially the reissues). So, if you ever decide to scratch that itch, here are a few things to consider:

1) Using 6L6s does not require you to use a solid state rectifier. If you're going for maximum headroom, the solid state rectifier is a good bet. However, a GZ34/5AR4 will work just fine too.

2) While it is solid state, a Weber Copper Cap rectifier is not the same thing as a "solid state" rectifier plug. A CC is designed to emulate the performance characteristics of the tube version it is fashioned after. For instance, a WZ34 CC is deisgned to perform the same way (voltage and sag) as the GZ34 tube version. Meanwhile, a solid state plug just converts AC voltage into DC voltage, just like they do in the larger amps (Bassmans, Bandmasters, Twins, etc.)...there is no sag with the plug. A plug will be "tighter sounding" than a CC.

3) Using 6L6s will result in a 4 ohm load if you maintain the stock output transformer and speaker. This isn't a bad thing, but it does have an effect on the preceived loudness of the amp...a good thing IMO. This is one of the things that gives you more headroom.

4) What you loose in sweetness and sponginess from the 6V6s you make up for in bottom end punch and clarity with 6L6s. It's a trade off and it depends on what type of tone you're after.

5) If you're amp is bright, I wouldn't clip out the bright cap. Instead, I'd get a higher wattage speaker (50 watt or so) which will be a bit darker than the lower wattage speakers. Lower wattage speakers sound sweet at lower volumes but fart out at higher volumes. Higher wattage speakers generally take a bit more to get into their sweet spot. Again, it's a trade off and it depends on the tone you're looking for.

So, if you're looking for a little more pop in the tone or a little more headroom to handle some pedals or a club setting, the 6L6 mod is a good one to consider.

[fauxsuper]

[QUOTE=PhatTele;1059165]I happen to love 6L6s in Deluxe Reverbs (especially the reissues). So, if you ever decide to scratch that itch, here are a few things to consider:

1) Using 6L6s does not require you to use a solid state rectifier. If you're going for maximum headroom, the solid state rectifier is a good bet. However, a GZ34/5AR4 will work just fine too.

2) While it is solid state, a Weber Copper Cap rectifier is not the same thing as a "solid state" rectifier plug. A CC is designed to emulate the performance characteristics of the tube version it is fashioned after. For instance, a WZ34 CC is deisgned to perform the same way (voltage and sag) as the GZ34 tube version. Meanwhile, a solid state plug just converts AC voltage into DC voltage, just like they do in the larger amps (Bassmans, Bandmasters, Twins, etc.)...there is no sag with the plug. A plug will be "tighter sounding" than a CC.

3) Using 6L6s will result in a 4 ohm load if you maintain the stock output transformer and speaker. This isn't a bad thing, but it does have an effect on the preceived loudness of the amp...a good thing IMO. This is one of the things that gives you more headroom.

4) What you loose in sweetness and sponginess from the 6V6s you make up for in bottom end punch and clarity with 6L6s. It's a trade off and it depends on what type of tone you're after.

5) If you're amp is bright, I wouldn't clip out the bright cap. Instead, I'd get a higher wattage speaker (50 watt or so) which will be a bit darker than the lower wattage speakers. Lower wattage speakers sound sweet at lower volumes but fart out at higher volumes. Higher wattage speakers generally take a bit more to get into their sweet spot. Again, it's a trade off and it depends on the tone you're looking for.

So, if you're looking for a little more pop in the tone or a little more headroom to handle some pedals or a club setting, the 6L6 mod is a good one to consider.[/QUOTE]

The fact that this is a "trade off" is something I should have emphasized. My preference for 6V6's iin Deluxe Reverbs is just that, and it is certainly an opinion. I think PhatTele's thoughts are among the most well thought out and perceptive observations I've ever read on the subject.

People on this site often make god-like pronouncements flatly stating "amp X is a peice of s*#%t.", or "this amp is the best you can get". PhatTele just lays out what he hears and figures you can make up your own mind about the trade offs.

Myself, I've always liked the sponginess of a tube rectifier, but it's just what I'm used to. I've had a couple of speed pickers comment that my amp was kind of "slow" when they've ran though most of my rigs. The Deluxe Reverb with 6L6's is sort of a low power Mini-Twin, and I imagine with the SS rectifier it would be even more so. I used to run mine with a Kendrick Brownframe. It was sort of dark sounding at lower volumes, but it brightened up quite a bit when the amp was cranked.


Trag, if you've got access to a 12 cab, try it with your DR before you do anything, you'll know instantly if you're on the right track.