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Old June 14th, 2007, 10:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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What to do with ground switch hole?

Next week when I have the time, I'll be converting my Deluxe Reverb to a 3-prong power cord. So, what does everyone do with the now function-less ground switch? Off the top of my head, there's a bunch of easily reversible mods that can be installed there:

- Mid pot
- NFB pot
- NFB lift switch
- Presence pot
- Channel jump switch
- Vibrato on/off switch
- PPIMV

Suggestions? Or should I just leave well enough alone (where's the fun in that)?

Thanks,
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Old June 15th, 2007, 05:32 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I'd go for a NFB pot.
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Old June 15th, 2007, 08:10 AM   #3 (permalink)
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or a dwell pot for the reverb...
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Old June 15th, 2007, 11:25 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Tone stack bypass switch.
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Old June 15th, 2007, 11:28 AM   #5 (permalink)
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+2 on the NFB.
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Old June 15th, 2007, 11:33 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Mid-range pot. Use a 25K audio taper. Attach the 6.8K resister from the Bass pot to the middle lug of the midrange pot. Ground the other end to the casing. Run a lead from the Bass pot (where the resister had been located) to the left lug of the midrange pot (looking at the back with the lug pointed up). On zero or one, the tone is "stock." Anything above stock is adding midrange. It's a nice mod which gives you a nice bluesy crunch without giving up the stock tone.

Note: If you run the lead to the ground switch jack, you might need a shielded cable. Sometimes you might get a little feedback (not always) if you run the lead unshielded. If you put the midrange control in place of the second output jack, you typically don't need the shielded cable.
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Old June 15th, 2007, 12:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
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or a dwell pot for the reverb...
+1

Or the NFB and Mid controls sound good too. Hard choice.

If the amp rocks, I might say just leave it be... I'd be more for leaving it alone than for a mod actually.
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Old June 15th, 2007, 02:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I used mine to install a female stereo 1/4" jack. It's wired to the cathodes of the power tubes on which have 1ohm resistors inserted to ground. I can insert a male stereo jack in it and connect my volt meter to measure/set bias, w/o pulling the chassis.
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Old June 15th, 2007, 02:30 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I used mine to install a female stereo 1/4" jack. It's wired to the cathodes of the power tubes on which have 1ohm resistors inserted to ground. I can insert a male stereo jack in it and connect my volt meter to measure/set bias, w/o pulling the chassis.
Yeah, Weber even sells all the stuff to do that as a kit. That's another consideration...
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Old June 15th, 2007, 05:33 PM   #10 (permalink)
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How about a pentode/triode switch for a 1/2 power option?
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Old June 15th, 2007, 05:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Install a "destroy all humans" switch.

Seriously.

If you like the amp, don't mess with it. Plus, while all those mods might be easy to wire up, unless you or a tech looks very carefully at getting the lead dress right, you're opening up a whole can of man-eating worms - seeing as how that hole is probably right next to the power tranny...

NFB/presence prolly wouldn't be too bad, but a mid knob might be a problem, and a channel-jump switch would almost certainly be a nightmare.

Now I'm absolutely going to put a "destroy all humans" switch on my next amp.
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Old June 15th, 2007, 05:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I like the NFB Switch. Back in the early'70s we called it the "Clapton Switch"!
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Old June 15th, 2007, 08:43 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmantele View Post
I used mine to install a female stereo 1/4" jack. It's wired to the cathodes of the power tubes on which have 1ohm resistors inserted to ground. I can insert a male stereo jack in it and connect my volt meter to measure/set bias, w/o pulling the chassis.


+1

I change my vote to this.

Ease of use/maintenance on an amp that already sounds great is always good. It's like a Tele - functionality and simplicity.
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Old June 16th, 2007, 06:26 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Well, maybe I'm getting old then. I just re-tubed and biased the thing, and holy crap! It sounds way better even with the original Oxford than my '64 no-logo ever did. Then again, I knew nothing about amps when I owned the '64 and did nothing except replace the power tubes when they failed. Bias pot? I turned it until it sounded good without smoke and flame. Maybe that's why I went through a lot of power tubes... Hahahaha!

I'm gonna do the bias test point thingy. No sense making a great amp sound like something it's not. So how do you read plate voltage without pulling the chassis?

The "Destroy all Humans" switch is still VERY enticing. Thanks for that, Ben!
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Old June 16th, 2007, 09:33 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by quackerz View Post

I'm gonna do the bias test point thingy. No sense making a great amp sound like something it's not. So how do you read plate voltage without pulling the chassis?
Good question. I actually have not changed tubes since I installed it. I know it runs about 10% above the schematic but what I'll end up doing is measuring the plate voltage at a few bias levels and noting it along with the idle current. Excel is nice for this since you'll see the wattage too. Then I'll know the plate voltage at various current levels and I'll only need to know the current in the future, to know the whole picture.
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Old June 17th, 2007, 03:10 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks, gotcha. But even though I work in IT, I suck at Excel macros. I was considering mounting two plate voltage test points on a plate that would cover the accessory receptacle socket but I completely chickened out. I ended up leaving all as is with the exception of installing an 18" male power receptacle cord and leaving my 1 ohm resistors in there. I wanted more play time on Fathers Day.
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