Tweed Deluxe Build

[Munga]

I have had this kit for a few months, but haven't had time to start it. Now I feel like this is my time. I have Wednesday all the way until Monday off of school, so I want to try and power through this thing.
Any tips/advice/suggestions before I start soldering? This is a Weber clone, BTW.
My soldering iron busted, so I am going to pick one up tommorow and get chugging!



Thanks!


Alec

[68tele]

I've built a Mission 5e3 a few years ago. Tips: Have fun, it's fairly easy, take your time, confirm all parts are included, drain the caps before diddling, keep one hand in yer pocket when checking voltages.

[JohnnyCrash]

I agree with 68tele.

Take your time. Don't try to "power through it".

Get some good tunes on the stereo while you're soldering, it'll help.

[Munga]

Thanks for the advice! I have the board all layout, and now I am just waiting on the soldering iron to get started!!!
I am getting so giddy :)

[Munga]

A picture of the board layed out.





A picture of the chassis.





A picture of the cab.



Alec

[Munga]

UPDATE:


Got some of the board and pots wired up. Do not hate me because I am horrible at grounding.




EDIT: Noticed you can't see the full sized version. Here is the link: http://img110.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc02028nw2.jpg

[JohnnyCrash]

When it's all done, you're gonna be one happy guy...

[Spiffpeters]

Ah, your pictures bring back good memories.

Soldering the grounds wasn't the most fun part, but I did enjoy the entire build process.

I took a little over a week to build mine. Double and triple checked everything as I went along. Gave extra attention to twisting and routing the heater circuit wires. Everything worked fine on initial startup and have been happy ever since.

Good luck and enjoy.

Don't forget to check the 5E3 discussion forum if you have some troubleshooting questions. http://music-electronics-forum.com/f...splay.php?f=13

[Munga]

Originally Posted by Spiffpeters

Ah, your pictures bring back good memories.

Soldering the grounds wasn't the most fun part, but I did enjoy the entire build process.

I took a little over a week to build mine. Double and triple checked everything as I went along. Gave extra attention to twisting and routing the heater circuit wires. Everything worked fine on initial startup and have been happy ever since.

Good luck and enjoy.

Don't forget to check the 5E3 discussion forum if you have some troubleshooting questions. http://music-electronics-forum.com/f...splay.php?f=13

Thanks! Those forums have been a great help for me. Especially Bruce's posts. He really knows his stuff.

[Munga]

UPDATE:

Got the board wired for the most part
Full image: http://img237.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc02029tt9.jpg


Wiring up the tube sockets.
Full image: http://img470.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc02033so0.jpg


Alec

[getbent]

Great progress!

[Munga]

Another UPDATE!!!:



Got the power transformer and power chord wired up, as well as one half of the output transformer. All I have to do is install the jacks, pots, brass plate, and board into the chassis, and solder a few more leads from the board to the tube sockets. And then it is time!

Full image: http://img19.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc02034ew6.jpg

[Munga]

Ok, I finished it, but it won't start. In fact, it is blowing fuses. I turn it on, and test lugs 4 and 6 on the rectifier tube socket, and the MM averages about 450-700v. And then, the fuse pops. Any ideas what could be wrong?

EDIT: BTW, this is with no tubes installed.

[zook]

Originally Posted by Munga

Ok, I finished it, but it won't start. In fact, it is blowing fuses. I turn it on, and test lugs 4 and 6 on the rectifier tube socket, and the MM averages about 450-700v. And then, the fuse pops. Any ideas what could be wrong?

EDIT: BTW, this is with no tubes installed.

Best case scenario: one of the PT wires is touching ground.

Second best case: There's a center tap on the 5V tap that's grounded (The 5V line should not have a CT it needs to be taped off

Worst case scenario: there's a dead short in your PT.

Disconnect all the PT leads, make sure none are touching anything or another lead, and then power up the amp. If the fuse blows the PT is shorted internally.

This test should be done with extreme caution BTW.



Winnie

[JohnnyCrash]

Same thing happened on my tweed Twin/Bandmaster build. I forget what that problem was... it was boneheaded though.

There's a few things it could be, do like zook said. Also, check your Power switches to make sure the solders are solid.

Eyeball each solder/component too. Make sure you didn't accidentally pull a me and wire something wrong. If it all visually looks OK (including solder any poor joints), you can start troubleshooting.

This part can get really discouraging, but stick with it... fear of the unknown can really get you down. After a few builds you'll be able to actually get it to fire up on the first try :)

[JohnnyCrash]

Did you tape off any unused PT leads? Make sure they're NOT touching each other.

I just snip the exposed wire away and use a beanie on the end...

Keep us posted...

[Munga]

Originally Posted by zook

Best case scenario: one of the PT wires is touching ground.

Second best case: There's a center tap on the 5V tap that's grounded (The 5V line should not have a CT it needs to be taped off

Worst case scenario: there's a dead short in your PT.

Disconnect all the PT leads, make sure none are touching anything or another lead, and then power up the amp. If the fuse blows the PT is shorted internally.

This test should be done with extreme caution BTW.



Winnie

Sorry, I am really new at this. I can make a good guess at what leads you are talking about, but can you specify exactly based on this layout: https://taweber.powweb.com/store/5e3_layout.jpg
At this point, I really don't want to assume anything.

[JohnnyCrash]

I believe the Green/Yellow is the heater's center tap... that is fine grounded and should be.

The other PT wires that say "NC" next to them should be taped off and not touching ANYTHING (including the exposed wire of each other).

[Munga]

Originally Posted by zook

Best case scenario: one of the PT wires is touching ground.

Second best case: There's a center tap on the 5V tap that's grounded (The 5V line should not have a CT it needs to be taped off

Worst case scenario: there's a dead short in your PT.

Disconnect all the PT leads, make sure none are touching anything or another lead, and then power up the amp. If the fuse blows the PT is shorted internally.

This test should be done with extreme caution BTW.



Winnie

Ok, with the help Jim A.K.A atomicmassunit, I have figured out that the PT isn't the problem after all. Yipee! I guess.
I need some more slowblow fuses. But I am at least happy that it wasn't the PT. After I get the fuses, I am gonna try and rewire the PT leads and see if that fixes anything. Thanks for all of your guys's help!

[getbent]

Originally Posted by Munga

Ok, with the help Jim A.K.A atomicmassunit, I have figured out that the PT isn't the problem after all. Yipee! I guess.
I need some more slowblow fuses. But I am at least happy that it wasn't the PT. After I get the fuses, I am gonna try and rewire the PT leads and see if that fixes anything. Thanks for all of your guys's help!

Get some rest. Then carefully go through and look at all your solder joints, make sure they are shiny. Then going slowly along with your layout pic check each connnection.... when I built my amp I sent Johnny C before I fired it up and he saw I was making one major boneheaded mistake, pointed it out, I fixed it (and whimpered at how I could have missed something that obvious) and I fired it up. Slow and sure.... feel free to post more pix (and maybe a download for your layout) so we can compare... hang in man, it will get a little frustrating before you get it.. but once it works.... all is good.

[zook]

There's a Blue/red lead on that PT. That should also be taped off. ( I use heat shrink, have it about 1/2" over the end, when it's hot, then bend it over flat.) That wire is for a fixed bias tap which the 5E3 doesn't use.


Check to see that all the leads on the board that aren't supposed to be grounded aren't .

Winnie
Winnie

[Sidney Vicious]

Enjoying the thread - not my friend's frustration! - as I have my eyes on a Mission Deluxe as my first build - good (but not surprised) to see the support group out there.

It is interesting to note that for a DESIRED connection to work you check to make sure your solder is shiney -

but if its an UNWANTED ground,

any old contact of bare wire with chassis will do.

Ain't that the way it always is!

[Munga]

Ok, heres the progress. I soldered everything from the PT except for the green leads, and no fuse popping. Then I soldered the green leads to the light, and still no fuse popping. Then, I installed the Weber Copper Cap, and a hum started coming from the light, and pulled the plug before the fuse could pop again. This is what happened before. Any ideas?

[zook]

On the rectifier socket do you have the Red/white wires going to pins 4 and 6 and the yellow wires going to pins 2 and 8? Is the B+ coming off pin 8?

Winnie

[Munga]

Originally Posted by zook

On the rectifier socket do you have the Red/white wires going to pins 4 and 6 and the yellow wires going to pins 2 and 8? Is the B+ coming off pin 8?

Winnie

https://taweber.powweb.com/store/5e3_layout.jpg


Thats what I am using. There aren't any white wires. Are you referring to the yellow wires?

[getbent]

munga,
Can you post a picture of the soldering around the rectifier socket... can you double check the wiring from your standby switch to make sure you don't have it reversed.