lacquering tweed - which color to use?

appar111 · September 2nd, 2006, 06:27 PM

Well, it's actually Minwax Polyshades (stain and polyurethane) in satin finish, but I'm torn between two colors: honey pine and classic oak. Here's the link to the colors:

http://www.minwax.com/products/onest...ades-color.cfm

I've seen quite a few 50's era Fender amps that have been lacquered that look quite amber/orange, moreso than yellowy, which is why I'm considering classic oak, which is definitely more amber toned than the honey pine.

So which should I go with? This will be for a 4x10 Bassman Reissue that's already looking pretty worn, which is why I'm looking at lacquering it. Once it's done, it will look nice and old!

Daddy Elmis · September 5th, 2006, 01:08 PM

I used Zinsser Amber Shellac and clear satin poly in 2 steps. From my recollection in doing the research before I did mine, folks that used the Minwax "all in one" approach tended to use the Honey Pine.

If you really want to see what happens before you do the amp, buy some tweed and test each (or so a small section on the bottom of the amp).

I think the color tends to be darker on the amp, and the more coats you apply the darker it will get.

appar111 · September 5th, 2006, 03:27 PM

I ended up going w/ the honey pine polyshades and it turned out great. I think it helps that the tweed was already fairly battle-scarred when I put the finish on it-- with the stain over top it looks very relic'ed and vintage, that's for sure. I think the other color would have been a tad too orange for my liking.

Now I just need to get it retubed!

J.

Blues Hurler · September 5th, 2006, 10:35 PM

Did you take it all apart, or do it assembled? I keep saying I'm going to do this, but the effort and down-time always slow me down!

appar111 · September 5th, 2006, 11:25 PM

I took everything apart-- took the chassis and baffle board w/ speakers out, took the back panels off, took the casters off (someone had installed a set rather crudely on the bottom, but hey they work-- it was definitely a working man's amp before I got it).

Didn't take long to disassemble, and made it much easier to get to all the cracks and the crevices along the inside where the tweed met the inside of the cabinet.

It's just amazing how much this thing looks aged now-- gotta thank the previous owner for all that wear! Just wish he would have measured a little better on those casters (one side is about 1/4" closer to the edge of the amp than the other side, but no balance problems-- it adds... character

)

Blues Hurler · September 6th, 2006, 02:09 AM

It's getting the chassis out that concerns me most. Seems like there's the greatest opportunity for things to go wrong. The rest is just unscrewing stuff I imagine. Anything in particular you can offer by way of advice?

BrianF · September 6th, 2006, 02:18 AM

My opinion / experience on this... Bullseye Amber shellac even heavily diluted is way too orange. It looks like a pumpkin... I've never seen a real tweed amp that color... except if it were exposed to some nasty environments for a long time?

The min-wax Honey pine looks more natural. One thing you can do to make it looked more aged is to lightly bleach the tweed prior to covering the amp cabinet. Cut the tweed pieces to shape and then bleach them in a basin or similar...You definitely need to experiment with the bleaching technique using swatches of the tweed cloth ahead of time. Make sure it's good and dry...and a little goes a long way

appar111 · September 6th, 2006, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianF

My opinion / experience on this... Bullseye Amber shellac even heavily diluted is way too orange. It looks like a pumpkin... I've never seen a real tweed amp that color... except if it were exposed to some nasty environments for a long time?

The min-wax Honey pine looks more natural. One thing you can do to make it looked more aged is to lightly bleach the tweed prior to covering the amp cabinet. Cut the tweed pieces to shape and then bleach them in a basin or similar...You definitely need to experiment with the bleaching technique using swatches of the tweed cloth ahead of time. Make sure it's good and dry...and a little goes a long way

Are you talking about putting new tweed on, then lacquering it? Sounds like that bleaching process for new tweed to age it is fairly involved. Mine is already tweed covered, I was just lacquering over top of it....

FiddlinJim · September 6th, 2006, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianF

My opinion / experience on this... Bullseye Amber shellac even heavily diluted is way too orange. It looks like a pumpkin... I've never seen a real tweed amp that color... except if it were exposed to some nasty environments for a long time?

I just used the Bullseye Amber on a new cabinet this weekend and... I agree. It turned out a little too orange for me. I used one coat of clear, then one coat of amber (both diluted about 1 to 1), although I probably gave the top like 1 1/2 coats of the amber. Next time (if there is one), I may try something different, or maybe more than one coat of the clear and dilute the amber a little more.

markophonic · September 7th, 2006, 09:34 AM

I used the min-wax Honey Pine on a case and it turned out great!

petebradt · September 7th, 2006, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianF

My opinion / experience on this... Bullseye Amber shellac even heavily diluted is way too orange. It looks like a pumpkin...

Some of us like that look.

stevedenver · September 7th, 2006, 01:57 PM

i like polyshades honey maple
looks authentic
really authentic
and is far more durable

appar111 · September 7th, 2006, 08:57 PM

petebradt-
thanks for the tips on-tweed finishing-but the way you type-can make what you're-trying to say a (little-hard to-read)(i.e.-confusing). :)

Leoisgod · November 7th, 2007, 06:14 PM

How did you apply the Minwax? How many coats? Thanks.

DavidP · November 7th, 2007, 11:20 PM

First get an aerosol can of Minwax satin clear poly, and spray a light sealer coat over the raw tweed--this will prevent the Polyshades colour from bleeding in differently. Once dry, I brush on a coat of Honeypine, then a second coat while tacky. Let dry thoroughly and a quick scrub with fine steel wool or a 3M pad. I usually go for a third coat of honey pine, then dry and another aerosol coat with the clear. Looks great and tough as nails!

Leoisgod · November 9th, 2007, 03:21 PM

Thanks DavidP!!

BroadMaster · November 11th, 2007, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianF

My opinion / experience on this... Bullseye Amber shellac even heavily diluted is way too orange. It looks like a pumpkin... I've never seen a real tweed amp that color... except if it were exposed to some nasty environments for a long time?

The CLEAR shellac will yellow/amber with time( patience required

). Exposure to florescent light will accelerate this. One could always mix a very minute pinch of yellow and an even smaller pinch of amber aniline dye with Denatured alcohol and acetone in proper proportion. ( user: subjective analysis required on test swatch) and then add to shellac and mix. try one coat and a florescent light for 96 hours and give it a look. Pre and post pics for your perusal and comparison of before and after may help.

BrianF · November 11th, 2007, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by appar111

Are you talking about putting new tweed on, then lacquering it? Sounds like that bleaching process for new tweed to age it is fairly involved. Mine is already tweed covered, I was just lacquering over top of it....

I was referring to new amp build where you can lightly pre-bleach the pieces before you them put on.

BrianF · November 11th, 2007, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevedenver

i like polyshades honey maple
looks authentic
really authentic
and is far more durable

Yep I believe that... it is easy to apply as well.

Many of us get hung up on doing "what Leo did" but as BroadMaster mentioned that will take alot of patience for the natural ambering of clear nitro to occur.

Another idea is to apply pre-ambered (from sunlight) nitro. ie from a bottle of nitro that sits in the sun for a long time.

Markl8 · November 11th, 2007, 01:32 PM

This is a Blues Deluxe RI amp I did a couple of years ago minwax honeypine, 3 coats.

September 2nd, 2006, 06:27 PM	#1 (permalink)
appar111 Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Ohio Age: 33 Posts: 1,341	lacquering tweed - which color to use? Well, it's actually Minwax Polyshades (stain and polyurethane) in satin finish, but I'm torn between two colors: honey pine and classic oak. Here's the link to the colors: http://www.minwax.com/products/onest...ades-color.cfm I've seen quite a few 50's era Fender amps that have been lacquered that look quite amber/orange, moreso than yellowy, which is why I'm considering classic oak, which is definitely more amber toned than the honey pine. So which should I go with? This will be for a 4x10 Bassman Reissue that's already looking pretty worn, which is why I'm looking at lacquering it. Once it's done, it will look nice and old!

September 5th, 2006, 01:08 PM	#2 (permalink)
Daddy Elmis Tele-Holic Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: USA Posts: 961	I used Zinsser Amber Shellac and clear satin poly in 2 steps. From my recollection in doing the research before I did mine, folks that used the Minwax "all in one" approach tended to use the Honey Pine. If you really want to see what happens before you do the amp, buy some tweed and test each (or so a small section on the bottom of the amp). I think the color tends to be darker on the amp, and the more coats you apply the darker it will get. __________________ Elwood: Good evening ladies and gentlemen, we're sure glad to be here in Cocomo tonight. We're the Good Ole' Blues Brothers Boys Band from Chicago. I sure hope you like our show. I'm Elwood, this here's my brother Jake.

September 5th, 2006, 10:35 PM	#4 (permalink)
Blues Hurler Tele-Holic Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 656 6 Photos	Did you take it all apart, or do it assembled? I keep saying I'm going to do this, but the effort and down-time always slow me down! __________________ The blues ain't about theory, they's about therapy.

September 6th, 2006, 02:09 AM	#6 (permalink)
Blues Hurler Tele-Holic Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 656 6 Photos	It's getting the chassis out that concerns me most. Seems like there's the greatest opportunity for things to go wrong. The rest is just unscrewing stuff I imagine. Anything in particular you can offer by way of advice? __________________ The blues ain't about theory, they's about therapy.

September 7th, 2006, 09:34 AM	#10 (permalink)
markophonic Tele-Holic Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Michigan Age: 47 Posts: 986 1 Photos	I used the min-wax Honey Pine on a case and it turned out great! __________________ http://www.brianvanderark.com/

September 5th, 2006, 03:27 PM	#3 (permalink)
appar111 Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Ohio Age: 33 Posts: 1,341	I ended up going w/ the honey pine polyshades and it turned out great. I think it helps that the tweed was already fairly battle-scarred when I put the finish on it-- with the stain over top it looks very relic'ed and vintage, that's for sure. I think the other color would have been a tad too orange for my liking. Now I just need to get it retubed! J.

September 5th, 2006, 11:25 PM	#5 (permalink)
appar111 Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Ohio Age: 33 Posts: 1,341	I took everything apart-- took the chassis and baffle board w/ speakers out, took the back panels off, took the casters off (someone had installed a set rather crudely on the bottom, but hey they work-- it was definitely a working man's amp before I got it). Didn't take long to disassemble, and made it much easier to get to all the cracks and the crevices along the inside where the tweed met the inside of the cabinet. It's just amazing how much this thing looks aged now-- gotta thank the previous owner for all that wear! Just wish he would have measured a little better on those casters (one side is about 1/4" closer to the edge of the amp than the other side, but no balance problems-- it adds... character )

September 6th, 2006, 02:18 AM	#7 (permalink)
BrianF Friend of Leo's Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Carlsbad, Ca Posts: 2,179 7 Photos	My opinion / experience on this... Bullseye Amber shellac even heavily diluted is way too orange. It looks like a pumpkin... I've never seen a real tweed amp that color... except if it were exposed to some nasty environments for a long time? The min-wax Honey pine looks more natural. One thing you can do to make it looked more aged is to lightly bleach the tweed prior to covering the amp cabinet. Cut the tweed pieces to shape and then bleach them in a basin or similar...You definitely need to experiment with the bleaching technique using swatches of the tweed cloth ahead of time. Make sure it's good and dry...and a little goes a long way

September 7th, 2006, 01:57 PM	#12 (permalink)
stevedenver Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: the mile high city Posts: 1,206 14 Photos	i like polyshades honey maple looks authentic really authentic and is far more durable __________________ Im really a Les Paul guy at heart, but ..... Last edited by stevedenver; September 8th, 2006 at 04:33 PM.

September 7th, 2006, 08:57 PM	#13 (permalink)
appar111 Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Ohio Age: 33 Posts: 1,341	petebradt- thanks for the tips on-tweed finishing-but the way you type-can make what you're-trying to say a (little-hard to-read)(i.e.-confusing). :)

November 7th, 2007, 06:14 PM	#14 (permalink)
Leoisgod TDPRI Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 27	How did you apply the Minwax? How many coats? Thanks.

November 7th, 2007, 11:20 PM	#15 (permalink)
DavidP Tele-Holic Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 586	Applying Minwax... First get an aerosol can of Minwax satin clear poly, and spray a light sealer coat over the raw tweed--this will prevent the Polyshades colour from bleeding in differently. Once dry, I brush on a coat of Honeypine, then a second coat while tacky. Let dry thoroughly and a quick scrub with fine steel wool or a 3M pad. I usually go for a third coat of honey pine, then dry and another aerosol coat with the clear. Looks great and tough as nails! __________________ barely in tune and teetering on the brink of oblivion...

November 9th, 2007, 03:21 PM	#16 (permalink)
Leoisgod TDPRI Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 27	Thanks DavidP!!

November 11th, 2007, 01:32 PM	#20 (permalink)
Markl8 Tele-Meister Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: SoCal Age: 54 Posts: 208	This is a Blues Deluxe RI amp I did a couple of years ago minwax honeypine, 3 coats.