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| Amp Central Station Amps, tubes, speakers & everything AMP related. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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Champ Pix!!!
You've been asking for them, here they are. My RI P8R isn't here yet, but other than that, and maybe a bright cap on the #1 input, it's finished
![]() ![]() ![]() OK, snipe about my crappy looking board. First build, I have an excuse. At least the shellac looks ok this time. Turretboard next time. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Northeast Kingdom, Vermont
Posts: 833
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The board looks fine. I prefer eyelets to turrets.
Winnie
__________________
I have noticed that happy people are often evaluating themselves and unhappy people are always evaluating others. -William Glasser |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Lost Angeles and Orange County
Posts: 7,128
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You're too hard on yourself man!
That looks NICE! Give them green heater wires a couple of tight twists, you'll drop some added hum/noise. I haven't even covered my cabs with tweed yet... or bought any shellac... it's midnight and I just finished building my 5D8 Twin... and holy crap does it sound killer! This next week I'll be rewiring one of my Telecasters (the one I use for slide in Open Tunings w/ humbuckers), and my ES-135 with a Fishman Powerbridge acoustic pickup... I doubt my tweed & shellac job will even come close to looking as cool as yours! Good job man, I am jealous of your amp-skinning skills! Some day, I'll learn... I am but a humble grasshopper :( |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
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Re: Nice!
Quote:
Here's what I learned: Before building, make sure you have all the parts. I didn't get a power cord. If you have two tables, lay your parts out on one and your board and tools on the other. A digital multimeter is a good idea. I have a $20 Radio Shack model that served me fine. Some will say you need a $300 Fluke but they're full of...well, you know. Back in the '50s, all they had was analog meters and those amps sounded pretty damn good. Measure the resistance of each resistor, don't use color coding. Bend the tangs and get the resistors and wires into place, one component at a time. I started on the right and worked left. When you're placing the wires on the back of the board, tape them down until you're done soldering. I DIDN'T do that and the cussing factor went up by an order of magnitude. I was dumb enough to think of it after the board was finished. You can solder grounds or bolt them to tube socket hold-downs and power-transformer hold-downs. In a larger chassis, I'd simply mount a few grounding lugs (with about three terminals per) and solder as many as possible grounds to those. It's important to NOT ground different sections of the amp at the same place, as this will introduce noise. Power supply grounds to the power transforme or rectifier socket hold-downs, output to the octal socket for the 6V6, preamp to the 9-pin socket hold-downs. I don't know if this is a great grounding scheme, it's probably not, but the amp is pretty quiet. Even with a 75-watt gun, I couldn't get the chassis hot enough to solder. One thing to know is the 5F1 champ does not call for a capacitor on the far right resistor, even though the 5E1 does. Get the cap. This is a mistake on the part of Fender way back when. Even if you're not using a Weber kit, go to their site and D/L their wiring diagram. It's much better, easier to read and calls for a cap on that part of the circuit. When I first fired mine up, it was VERY dark. Like the tone knob was on about 3, on the guitar. I spoke with Curt Emery (my amp tech for several years, www.emerysound.com) who suggested trying several values of cap on that far right section (preamp) as the difference in brightness would be subtle, not gross. I settled on a 4.7uf electrolytic (has to be electrolytic) and I'll see how it sounds with the RI Jensen P8R I have coming. If it's still darker than I like I'll put a bright cap on the volume control, like a DR has . I asked for Mallory 150 coupling caps on the advice of Brother Fezz Parka. He said they sound better. Marsh exchanged them with no upcharge so it was a wash. One other thing - if I ever do this again, I won't buy a kit, I'll just go to Hoffman and buy the chassis, caps, and resistors, and hardware, Mojo for the cabinet, fuseholder, pilot lamp (NOS) and misc. parts, JMI music for Mercury Magnetics transformers and JJ tubes. I'll get a board from turretboards.com. No more eyelets for me. |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: LIttle Rock, AR
Age: 52
Posts: 5,491
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Quote:
Servicing old Fender amplifiers is easier than any other old tube amps, because of the eyelets. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 127
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I prefer turrets. Why? It's a better connection that will likely never fail. In a bygone era it was the military spec standard. That said, eyelets can work just fine. Do remember, you need metal to metal contact. So, kind of crimp your wires through and against the eyelet. Solder alone dosen't make a good connection! Also, leave a little extra wire on the component so it has some flex. Expansion/contraction can break resistor leads over time. Bad soldering,warped boards and broken leads are typical of the problems you will see in old Fender amps.
ps Beautiful Champ! |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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![]() Who needs a marshall Stack, when you can have tweed? (Not that I ever would use that configuration, one at a time, please) Speaker arrived and it sounds very good already, no doubt will sound better after I break it in. It's about as bright as I need it now, but a 12AX7 is MUCH too gainy for me. I have a Mullard 12AT7 in it now and I think I'm going to settle on a 12AY7 if I can find a Mullard. I'll try to get some recording done tomorrow. I have enough demos floating around I can plug some Champ into them. |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: SW CR IA US NA PE
Age: 28
Posts: 1,916
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#19 (permalink) | ||
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Friend of Leo's
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#20 (permalink) | |||
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: SW CR IA US NA PE
Age: 28
Posts: 1,916
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#21 (permalink) | ||
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: LIttle Rock, AR
Age: 52
Posts: 5,491
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Quote:
And it's two more 5E tweed tone flavors you don't have covered yet. |
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#22 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: May 2005
Location: North of Pittsburgh, East of Youngstown, close to nowhere...
Posts: 161
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#23 (permalink) | ||
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Friend of Leo's
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