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#1 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Perth, Australia
Age: 34
Posts: 459
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How to uhoplster an amp
Thanks to the magic of DIY, i'll soon have a new amp. I don't plan on leaving the cabinet as bare wood, so I need some tips on how to go about upholstering my 5F1.
If possible, i'm going to avoid using tweed and track down some vomit worthy paisely or some equally dated and horrendous fabric. But, are there any types of materials I must avoid using when covering an amp? Like most guys I know nothing about fabric, but i'm not scared to learn Also, do you glue it on, spray adhesive it on... how do you approach corners... etc If anyone can give me an upholstery 101 it'd be much appreciated |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: New England
Posts: 5,974
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You need to do it in purple metalflake tuck 'n' roll as per vintage Kustom.
"Mother of Bayonne pizzeria..." The booths are '70s orange or "classy" deep red but we want to kick it up a notch. Maybe an investment cast winged cherub volume knob... |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 138
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I think something like this would be nice...
Or this... But seriously...I came across this website when I was searching for the same information. Maybe it will help. Scroll down a little until he gets to the part about covering the cabinet. He talks about adhesives too. http://guitarkitbuilder.com/content/...lifier-cabinet |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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I have been looking at coverings from Mojo.Lot's of choices that don't look like Tolex.
Seems like there's a place on the websiter. I know I've seen the process on YouTube.
__________________
Martin ___________________________ E. Christina Herr & Wild Frontier Americana Motel |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
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Fabric stores sell a wide variety of vinyls in all sorts of colors and patterns, and they are a lot cheaper than Mojo or Vibroworld or the other usual sources. I have covered a lot of cabs in the re-issue Fender style Tolex and the stuff from the fabric stores. As a general rule, I would say the Mojo/Vibroworld Tolex is a little tougher and harder and the fabric store stuff is a little stretchier and softer and scuffs easier. However, they both work fine and ruby red lizard vinyl or teal ostrich quill vinyl makes a pretty cool and unique amp covering.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Memphis TN
Posts: 3,894
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alternative amp covering material
When I cover amps w tolex or vinyl I use solvent contact cement, not the spray can stuff.
Depending on what you have in mind for fabric, you would need to test a piece of it on a scrap of wood to make sure that whatever glue you intend to use doesn't bleed through. The original Fender tweed is a fabric but it's thick, it was installed w hot melt hide glue. Some folks use waterbase contact cement, I don't like it , at least not for tolex, others have used white glue, spray can glue ( which I also don't like, it will eventually turn loose, causing bubbles or loose edges ) There used to be some tolex tutorials on the Weber amp bbs, you could try doing a web search. If the corners of the cabinet will be covered with metal or plastic amp corners, then you don't have to worry too much about finishing them out nicely, if the corners are not covered, I'd say again, practice on some scrap wood first. found a couple sites w pics http://guitarkitbuilder.com/content/...lifier-cabinet http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s...view=slideshow Password is ToneRanch http://www.guitarscanada.com/amp-bui...net-build.html |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Memphis TN
Posts: 3,894
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What about glue?
What type glue you use depends a lot on what you intend to cover the amp / cabinet with.
If you are using some thin cloth you can't really spray glue on the back of it , it may bleed through, that's why I said practice on some scrap wood. I'm not too keen on using spray can glue , it's expensive for what it is, and really doesn't hold up in the long run compared to using real contact cement. I haven't ever tried using the waterbase contact but I've owned a couple amps / cabinets that were covered using it, they developed bubbles in the tolex after a while and the edges of the overlap material pulled loose, I won't use it. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: apache junction az
Posts: 1,095
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hi, lots of fabric stores will carry every thing you will need. and they also can recommend a glue for you. they did for me. i just went to joanns fabric, and bought some burlap, was cheap.
here is a webpage showing how one guy did a tweed job. probably a million ways to do this, but this is how he did it: http://www.guitarscanada.com/amp-bui...net-build.html ( doh, guess it was already posted, should of read closer, damn im stupid.. i need reading comprehension 101. laughs, may as well throw in a few english classes too, hell if it was not for my ex gf. i would of probably failed english in college, laughs. she was a great proof reader ) i dig some of that flashy 70s stuff, its groovy. guess we would have to hit the vintage clothing store to find some of that flash, or what they would say now "bling" i dunno what scares me more tho. the fact you old cats wore some of this stuff, or there is a market for it now.. guess its one of them had to be there moments in history. way to flash for my simpleton. chris.
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R.I.P Phil "Phil Ochs — When I'm Gone" |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Perth, Australia
Age: 34
Posts: 459
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Thanks Jipp - that link is fantastic. I can't find too many threads with that detail.
Right now, i'm looking more toward couch fabric something like this: http://www.housefabric.com/Dahlia-Java-P91571C2291.aspx ... the material is quite thick, and 100% polyester so it won't dye bleed - i'm just wondering if it can handle that contact cement without disintegrating (a test panel and i'll find out I guess). I'll visit my local... umm... fabric place (?) and see what they say. If it's a no go I may just with plain old tweed. |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Donner Lake
Posts: 383
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I can't comment on the uhoplstery (sorry, I had to) process but two of the web pages cited talk about building cabinets out of butt-jointed pine--one with screws and glue and one with nails and glue. Wood glue does not hold on the end grain so the cabinets are held together only by screws and nails respectively. Considering that a cabinet will usually be lifted by a handle on the top these constructions are doomed to fail, especially the nail one. Finger (or box) joints require a table saw and dado blade, or a router and an expensive jig. Dovetails can be done by router and jig, but are easily cut by hand and are a lot of fun. They're also easy to repair if they don't come out perfectly. You need a dovetail saw, a couple of chisels, a square, a bevel gauge, and a marking knife (am I forgetting anything?)-less than $100 worth of tools which you will use over and over. You don't even need clamps--if the joints fit tightly you tap them together, make sure the cabinet is square and the joints themselves supply the clamping pressure. And if they look like crap--that's what the uhoplstry is for. I did forget a vise and one clamp to clamp the boards to the work bench when you're chiseling out the waste after cutting.
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