DIY Homemade Cab or Combo Write UPs

DJayhawk · November 28th, 2008, 10:32 AM

I am looking for some write up's that some of you may have bookmarked about building Speaker Cabinets or perhaps even building a Combo amp.

I am considering getting a Valve Jr. head and thought about tackling building my own cabinet to go along with it. I've also wanted to tinker with some more advanced electronics and maybe just build my own custom combo tube amp.

Do you guys have any suggestions?

thanks

boozer · November 28th, 2008, 10:59 AM

i know on the new weber forum there is a bunch of details plans for cabinets.
don't show you how but it does give all dimensions and cuts
www.weberorders.com/forum

jspeter51 · November 28th, 2008, 07:46 PM

I just made a cabinet for 2 12s. I made it based on the dimensions that THD uses for their 2x12 cabinets since I am playing thru a THD Univalve. I didnt take many pictures, but it isnt a horribly hard project. I just stained it rather than tolex (which is easier imo), and it is far from perfect, but it looks good enough for me, and its bound to get beat up, but it sounds great! I say just go for it... if I can do it, anyone can!!

old_picker · November 28th, 2008, 09:21 PM

theres no rocket science in building cabs
i mean some go on and on about size etc but basic rule of thumb:
make it as big as you want to carry [bigger cab gives bigger sound]
use pine or other resonant timber
use decent ply for baffle 1/2"
use finger joints or through dovetail or you will have to hang it off a frame

the decision is open or closed back

open back is more 3d natural sound and good on stage
close back is punchy and directional

Rob DiStefano · November 29th, 2008, 04:49 AM

What old picker said ... here's one of the ways I build cabs ...

www.frettech.com/rfc/cab/

DJayhawk · November 29th, 2008, 09:17 AM

What do you think your approx. cost is for the material Rob?

Rob DiStefano · November 29th, 2008, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJayhawk

What do you think your approx. cost is for the material Rob?

Depends on what you want, how you will build, what you already have on hand, etc.

Check out the pricing from Home Depot or Lowes ...

cab box - clear (or knotted), low cupped, straight pine - 3/4" x 11-1/4"
cab back panels -1/4" birch or oak ply
baffle cleats - 3/4" square red oak
rear panel cleats - 3/4" square pine
speaker baffle - 1/2" birch or oak ply, 7 or 5 ply
cleat screws - #8 1-1/4" pan head + #10 washer
rear panel screws - #8 3/4" pan head -or- recessed washer screws
speaker screws - 8/32 s/s machine screws 1-1/2" + nuts

You'll also need to consider ...

- grille cloth or cane or metal
- matte back paint for the baffle front
- handle
- feet
- corners (maybe)
- covering and/or finish
- speaker(s), wiring, jack

And, what tools you have and how proficient you are with 'em.

My typical cab schedule is like this ...

Label the boards for the dovetail process
Dovetail all four boards
Assemble the box - dot of yellow glue in each dovetail joint
Fill in an wood voids and cracks with wood paste
Sand dovetail EDGES with 80-100 grit belt sander
Roundover all external cab edges
Sand dovetails and sides with finishing sander, 120 & 220 grit
Measure/cut 1/4" rear panels, 1/2" speaker baffle (handle panel optional)
Stain and clear coat cab and panels
Install leather handle
Cut 1/4" ply speaker baffle framing
Build baffle board: cut hole(s), glue framing, paint flat black
Clear coat the back of the baffle - only when covering w/cane
Layout and install four 8/32" s/s speaker machine screws
Cover baffle with wicker cane or cloth
Soak cane grille for 45 minutes in hot water (not the cloth!)
Staple cane or cloth to baffle (allow to cane to dry and shrink)
Measure cleats: 3/4" in for baffle, 1/2" in for panels
Screw the pre-drilled 3/4" oak baffle cleats (3 screws)
Drill jack hole in upper panel - 3/8" bit
Assemble jack into 1/4" rear panel, solder leads
Screw the pre-drilled 3/4" pine back panel cleats
Install rubber feet
Screw speaker to the four baffle screws
Screw baffle to cleats - #8 1-1/4" screws + #10 washer
Solder speaker leads & screw in top panel

6942 · November 29th, 2008, 09:53 AM

I built a diagonal, open-backed, 2x12 cabinet.
Home Depot sells 24"x24"x3/4" Birch Ply that worked perfect for the baffle.
It was hung off a hardwood frame, with 3/4" solid pine for the sides and half back.

Steve

November 28th, 2008, 10:32 AM	#1 (permalink)
DJayhawk NEW MEMBER! Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Kansas City Age: 32 Posts: 4	DIY Homemade Cab or Combo Write UPs I am looking for some write up's that some of you may have bookmarked about building Speaker Cabinets or perhaps even building a Combo amp. I am considering getting a Valve Jr. head and thought about tackling building my own cabinet to go along with it. I've also wanted to tinker with some more advanced electronics and maybe just build my own custom combo tube amp. Do you guys have any suggestions? thanks

November 28th, 2008, 09:21 PM	#4 (permalink)
old_picker Tele-Holic Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 528	theres no rocket science in building cabs i mean some go on and on about size etc but basic rule of thumb: make it as big as you want to carry [bigger cab gives bigger sound] use pine or other resonant timber use decent ply for baffle 1/2" use finger joints or through dovetail or you will have to hang it off a frame the decision is open or closed back open back is more 3d natural sound and good on stage close back is punchy and directional __________________ ray

November 28th, 2008, 10:59 AM	#2 (permalink)
boozer Tele-Meister Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Langley B.C. Canada Age: 26 Posts: 261	i know on the new weber forum there is a bunch of details plans for cabinets. don't show you how but it does give all dimensions and cuts www.weberorders.com/forum

November 28th, 2008, 07:46 PM	#3 (permalink)
jspeter51 TDPRI Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Arizona Posts: 94	I just made a cabinet for 2 12s. I made it based on the dimensions that THD uses for their 2x12 cabinets since I am playing thru a THD Univalve. I didnt take many pictures, but it isnt a horribly hard project. I just stained it rather than tolex (which is easier imo), and it is far from perfect, but it looks good enough for me, and its bound to get beat up, but it sounds great! I say just go for it... if I can do it, anyone can!!

November 29th, 2008, 04:49 AM	#5 (permalink)
Rob DiStefano Poster Extraordinaire Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Park Ridge, NJ Age: 63 Posts: 5,083	What old picker said ... here's one of the ways I build cabs ... www.frettech.com/rfc/cab/

November 29th, 2008, 09:17 AM	#6 (permalink)
DJayhawk NEW MEMBER! Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Kansas City Age: 32 Posts: 4	What do you think your approx. cost is for the material Rob?

November 29th, 2008, 09:53 AM	#8 (permalink)
6942 Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Western Maryland Posts: 1,802	I built a diagonal, open-backed, 2x12 cabinet. Home Depot sells 24"x24"x3/4" Birch Ply that worked perfect for the baffle. It was hung off a hardwood frame, with 3/4" solid pine for the sides and half back. Steve