New DRRI and rebuild later or boutique now?

[JDaveG]

For some reason, I keep coming back to the DRRI over and against a variety of boutique and small builder (Dr. Z, etc.) amps. Not because I don't recognize the difference in quality, but because I just dang like the sound of the DRRI and particularly its built-in trem and reverb. I can't get past it.

So here's the question. I'd love to get a DRRI at current (i.e., "before they go up to $950) prices. I can get one locally for around $800. The thought is to buy the amp, enjoy it, and if at any point I decide the quality is not up to snuff, have a boutique chassis rebuilt with turret board construction and upgrade the cab/speakers, etc.

On the other hand, for about double that price (which I can swing if I need to), I can have a new boutique DRRI built now. I'm leaning toward the DRRI primarily because I don't gig and I'm not sure I "need" the more robust construction of a boutique. I can better spend the extra $800 elsewhere now and when I'm ready to do the build (if I ever want to), I have a cab and speakers and all the accoutrements. I just need a chassis.

Any thoughts/suggestions/advice?

[Durtdog]

I'm not sure why you feel you need something more than the DRRI. Plenty of people gig them for years with no problem. Don't listen to people on the internet who tell you you must have the very finest in the world (and most expensive).

The DRRI is a nice amp. If you like the way it sounds, get it and be happy.

[BrianF]

The DRRI is a nice amp. If you like the way it sounds, get it and be happy.

I agree...and I'm a tinkerer engineer-type. Just go for the DRRI and save the $.. If you really want to build one you probably could do it for about the same amount of money if you source the parts yourself (or find a cheap kit), do your own construction etc..

[teleamp]

A DRRI with decent tubes and speaker sound great.

IMHO, it would be a waste of money to gut and rebuild a DRRI. You'll have a ton of money in it if you go that route.

IF you want a handwired one, get a used silverface DR. Or, an Allen Accomplice.

[Singin' Dave]

I concur with the above. Buy an amp now as you want it, not with an eye to mod it later. If the DRRI rings yor bell, have at it.

But also check out some SF DR's which are not much more.

[e-merlin]

If you keep going back to the DRRI, why bother with anything else? You only have to please your ears.

[DavidS]

Buy a used DRRI for $500-$600 and spend the other $200 on NOS tubes and a speaker(if necessary). Even if you buy a silverface, chances are it will need the tubes, speaker, and a cap job. I've had my DRRI since 98. I've done a few tweaks to it myself and it sounds fantastic. In order of noticeable tonal/feel improvement: CRex speaker, NOS tubes, MM iron, upgraded tone caps, clipped bright cap.

If you want a PTP now, get a silverface.

[JDaveG]

Thanks, guys. Makes me feel a bit better about it.

I know this is tone and features I'm looking for. Just wanted to be sure this was the right way to go. Y'all are right -- I will probably get it and decide later that chassis money would be better spent on another Tele.

[BluesOwl]

if you order the Stu-Daddy BFDR clone, you get channels that are in phase and you get a LH channel that is voiced as a tweed deluxe.
You get a finger jointed pine cab.
I've ordered one.
Maybe all this is blah blah blah...but I went for it.

Based off my love for my DRRI with Crex spkr

[Boogie]

+1 on Silverface recommendations. They cost about the same, sound better than a DRRI, and with a good-going through by a competent amp tech, will last you a lifetime.

[11 Gauge]

I gutted a DRRI for a PTP board - not the hardest thing in the world, but not easy either. Really just aggravating in ways:

- Chassis has to be reamed for full size pots. This includes the faceplate!

- The RCA inputs for the footswitch stuff are in the "wrong" location in the RI. Be prepared to drill and relocate them.

- Fender got kinda "creative" with the filter cap alteration on the RI. While it works, I suggest backdating it to standard BF/SF specs.

I actually don't suggest the Hoffman board - it's too big IMO. I know that going to a scratchbuilt smaller board will typically result in some stacked components, but I just don't like that after you get the Hoffman board secured that you don't have a lot of room to tweak things in and around the chassis.

If it were up to me, I would easily pony up the extra $ for a SF, along with money for a cleanup - filter caps, maybe some new pots, tubes, and a nice speaker. I'd only do the RI if it were a steal and I never had any intention of doing anything other than snipping a bright cap, rebiasing, and replacing tubes and maybe speaker.

If you like the RI stock, that's your answer right there. No need to dilly dally with anything else.

[JDaveG]

Originally Posted by BluesOwl

if you order the Stu-Daddy BFDR clone, you get channels that are in phase and you get a LH channel that is voiced as a tweed deluxe.
You get a finger jointed pine cab.
I've ordered one.
Maybe all this is blah blah blah...but I went for it.

Based off my love for my DRRI with Crex spkr

I went to the Stu-Daddy website, and couldn't find any contact info. They do build these to order, do they not?

Any idea of who to contact?

[Deadduck]

Yeah, just go with the Reissue and change tubes and speakers if that floats your boat.

[Unadan]

My DRRI sounds just awesome without a PTP board nor does it need one. Although I am truly impressed with the members that have undertaken this project.